Break in oil

Hey I seached for any forums for this but couldn't find any so sorry if this is a repost,
I have a d250rtc motorcycle that I have been riding for 2 months, this is it:
http://www.scooterdepot.us/250cc-str...les-p-744.html
it is brand new right now at 490 miles, and as soon as I got it I changed the oil to 4t 10w-40 full synthetic oil. Now that was a mistake for breaking in an enginge I am assuming from the internets feedback, I should have instead gone to mineral oil for the first thousand miles everyone says, or atleast for the japanese bikes.

My question is would it be better to switch now to a mineral based oil until I fully break in the engine? Why can't I use synthetic if it is bad? And I have had no problems yet with the bike at all so to me atleast it seems like it has been operating fine.

Now on a little bit different topic, how do you guys break in engines? I have heard from a lot of people to drive aggressive for the first 600-1000 miles to fully seal the piston rings. Alot of high revving and engine breaking but only after the bike has been properly worn out. Any ideas on this?
Here is the site that everyone redirects me to about this subject:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Look long enough on the net and you will find all kinds of conflicting information.:lol8:

Don't sweat it. Your bike will be fine with the synthetic oil. Lots of new vehicles come with synthetic oil.

I always break in my vehicles according to the owner's manual taking it easy for the first 1k miles or so. Others break in hard with good results so I guess it doesn't matter.

I guess synthetic oil is super slippery, so change back to mineral oil start all over again? hard breaking is OK, just dont overheat the engine don't rev it too much to redline.

exactly what I am doing now, mechanic told me its fine :)

thats what I thought, guess it all depends on how you hit your bike, using your own common sense, thanx

mattbujor,
You might ant to get one of the magnetic drain plugs for your CG250 engine since it just has a wire mesh oil strainer like my DF250RTB (same engine).
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/IMG_0643.jpg
After first oil change.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/IMG_0644.jpg
After second oil change

Available here along with other places
http://stores.ebay.com/GOOD-OL-BEARs...nkw=gy6&submit

wow thanx a lot man, didn't know these existed, how is the fit, and do you think it was worth it? Have you done any other mods to your bobber? I plan on changing the spark plug and spark plug wiring soon and adding more ground wires so it might complain less when starting it up, do you have that problem? Also do you know anything about the lights, for the rtc the provide about only a 1o foot distance of light, hows your bobber though, enjoying it?

Do you see what is attached to the magnet in the first photo? That is metal that came out of the oil.

Only you can decide if it is worth it to you to remove that metal from your oil.

Again, these engines have wire mesh for the oil filter.

As far as fit is concerned, it's a replacement for you existing drain plug.

You can get other opinions from Moto Man, link http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm or in your owner's manual.


For New Engines:
The bike should be started and allowed to warm up at an idle for about two minutes. This is to get the oil at something close to operating temperature. Then, ride the bike normally for about 5 miles. Stay off freeways or anywhere else that would make you maintain a constant speed. Don't lug the engine - run the engine in the mid-range rpm band, roughly 1/3 to 2/3 of the red line rpm. You want to be accelerating and decelerating, and using the engine as a brake to slow you down at times. Stop, turn off the engine, and let the engine cool for about 5 minutes. This is to even out the temperature in case there are any hot spots. Start the bike and ride for about 10 minutes, again in stop and go traffic. Stop and allow about 5 minutes for the engine temperature to even out.


Now, ride the bike fairly hard for about 25 to 50 miles. A mountain or curvy road is a good thing at this point. You can use the entire rpm band, up to and perhaps even a bit over the red line. Make sure to accelerate and decelerate a lot, using full throttle and using the engine as a brake. Notice that your owner's manual says at this point you should still be keeping the RPM under something like 4,000. Moto Man gives a good argument on why the factories give such a recommendation, which goes against all my experience and understanding and what every racing team in the universe does.
At about 50 miles, go home and change the oil and the filter. I recommend you use a synthetic oil. If you simply can't bring yourself to use a synthetic in a new engine, use manufactures recommended engine oil of superior grade. When you take out your factory oil, if you hold it up in the sunlight you'll see the color is very good, it looks almost completely unused, but you'll see lots of reflections from metal flakes in the oil. These flakes are very bad for your engine, and can clog up your oil filter so that your filter bypass is activated, meaning you effectively don't have an oil filter. Notice that the factory says you should still be using the factory oil and oil filter.