CF Moto V5/Qlink Legacy DIY service pics and info

It is time for me to do my 1,000 miles service and get all the break in junk out so here's some nice pics and instructions on how to service the fluids on your bike.

First we'll go get some stuff from the store that is in accordance with manufacturer specifications.

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We'll need some 15-40 oil. I recommend a funnel with a hose and measuring cup on it, as it makes it so easy to get the proper amount dispensed.


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Remove your fill and drain plugs.


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After that you can remove the filter plug and spring.


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After everything is drained and the filter screen is clean, put the plugs and filter back in and get ready to fill'er up. The book states you only need 800ml of oil, but you will come up short if you do. You must use the entire 1000ml of oil to get a perfect reading of full.


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That's all for the oil change! Next let's do the gearbox oil..............

Now we'll do the gearbox oil.

The manual says there are only 5 screws to getting the CVT cover off, but there are 6 and if I had not suspected another screw hidden on the back side of the case when I found it difficult to remove I'd have broken it trying to pull it off so pay attention to that.


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Oh, and here's the gearbox oil.

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The fill screw is on top, the drain screw is on bottom. All you have to do is inject oil until it comes out to fill it up. It does not hold very much at ALL. Less than 2 cups. It's a simple procedure so no need to explain much more.

Coolant time!

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Remove the left side of the skin.


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Back on the right side the water pump housing doesn't look like it has a drain bolt, but there is a secret..... the bottom bolt is designed as a drain bolt. AHHHHHHhhhhh tricky!


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The original coolant is Ethylene Glycol based with erosion inhibitor especially for aluminum engines. It's a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. When replacing it, you should always properly flush the coolant completely out because most of the antifreeze on the market isn't clear blue like the original and some of them turn to jello when you mix them. The "do all" antifreeze that most people pour in to the Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze causes a hardening reaction that solidifies and I don't have to tell you much more than that to explain why flushing the coolant very well is important.

Don't expect a ton of antifreeze, this isn't a car. You'll get about this much.

[img ]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5/audiogodz1/bike/service/IMG_2493.jpg[/img]


You also need to remove the expansion tank and flush it too since there is no drain on it.


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Put your clean tank back in, put your drain plug back in the water pump, and fill the radiator at the top coolant cap. Start the bike and warm it to operating temp, revving it up 4 or 5 times every 30 seconds or so as recommended by the manufacturer to purge the air out of the line. You're done! :thumbsup:

Spark plug is a good idea while you're at it. They're only a couple bucks and a fresh plug is a good thing.


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The old plug looks good, but a new plug is better!


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The manufacturer recommends between .031 and .035. Why they didn't just say .033 is beyond me.


Since this is a chinese bike I'll use a chinese feeler gauge. ;D


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That's all folks! Hope your bike is happy with it's clean fluids and fresh plug. ;)

NOW, how to add an aftermarket enricher. There is a guy on ebay that sells them for $40, but they are only $20 on a popular scooter sales site. Why aftermarket? Because CF Moto only sells the entire carb..... wha?? Yeah.


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So here's the deal with the replacement. It works GREAT. OMG I will never say these bikes are cold natured. It runs as good at room temp as it does at operating temp with a properly functioning enricher. I was also able to turn my idle back down because it was loping and choppy when the enricher was bad. NOW I know what a bike with 1k miles should run like. SMOOTH.

There will be a slight modification on this enricher for mounting purposes. For $20 you can bet I'll fix the mount.

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Ok all that is self explanatory leading up to this. The clamp must be slightly squeezed since it doesn't have the big ring mount the original one did. No biggie, 2 second fix. There is one more thing however..... there is a little "nubbin" lifting the clamp mount up about 1.5mm that you can see below being pointed to. This raises the enricher out of the seat by that amount and obviously this is an issue. You can either bend the clamp down and get creative, or shave the nubbin with a dremel. I'm going for option #2 and shaving the nubbin to make it seat perfectly flat.

The enricher works like a charm, and my bike runs AWESOME.


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Here is the nub and the screw beside the hole.


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You must keep the metal shavings out of the carb so use some putty or bubble gum to fit and seal the hole. The shavings are very small and you must use one of the recommended or the shavings will slip past anything else. FULL SEAL.


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Get your dremel out and get to work!


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Here's where I did a trick.... I left the nubbin at an angle so when I screwed the screw in the clamp it made the clamp push down to the hole, which will actually hold this enricher much better in the hole with pressure than the stock setup!


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Here's what that looks like.


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Blow everything out very good before removing the putty/gum from the carb hole.


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You don't want this metal in your carb!


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Put the clamp on your new enricher with a little squeeze as described above.


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And you are done! Look how nicely that sits in there, and see how the clamp has a little angle to it? It's pushing the enricher down which makes it seal against the O-Ring. The OEM setup never did that!


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ENJOY!