CFMoto 650TR halogen - HID headlight upgrade

650TR headlight bulb access thread
650TR screen removal thread

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...id=13914&stc=1

So the 650TR comes with a pair of headlights. In PRC LHS is illuminated (means switched on) with low beam, while both LHS & RHS illuminate for high beam. If the headlights are switched off and the "flash to pass" switch is used at the front of the LHS handlebar switch cluster then only the RHS headlight illuminates. In some jurisdictions the headlights might be wired to be on when the ignition switch is switched 'ON'. Also worth noting that the left versus headlight might be the default low beam 'ON' depending on which side of the roadway the population travel on.


http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...id=13915&stc=1

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...id=13916&stc=1

The headlight bulbs are Halogen H8 35W. Slightly off-white (creamy) in colour. Not particularly bright, and the bulbs are more commonly found in Fog and spot light applications. The LHS headlight reflector distributes the light in a horizontal rectangle which has a fairly defined edge to it. See my comments in my 650TR review thread concerning the light distribution. The RHS headlight reflector is much more focused and delivers more of a pencil beam.

I initially replaced the Halogen H8 35W bulbs with a pair of LED 80W bulbs. Nice easy plug and play fitting. Nice very white bright light, very conspicuous front on, but very poor distributed light for the rider. These were kept in for the purposes of the initial trial over one night and replaced the next day with a pair of HID Xenons'.

HID Xenon H8 55W 6000K (wanted something that could compete with the likes of the Xenon projectors commonly found on later model cars, where most drivers in PRC drive round in one mode... high beam, all night long!).

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...id=13917&stc=1

The easiest method for the install is to remove the 650TR screen, then the underlying dash tupperware fascia, which gives unhindered access to the rear side of both the instrument panel and headlights.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...id=13924&stc=1

Decided that I might as well remove more tupperware to get really good access, for unhindered reach and movement as well as more choices for placement of the ballasts when the time came.

After unplugging the wiring loom from the instrumen cluster atnd removing the screws, instrument panel was removed, as were the two mirror/indicator pods and the mirrors.

Attachment 13921

I'd envisaged having to possibly remove the headlight pods.

Attachment 13920

Removed the headlight dust covers and removed the two headlight bulb with 1/8th a turn, and then the plugs.

Attachment 13919

Exposed H8 plug.

Attachment 13922

Slim-line ballasts.

Attachment 13923

Slim line ballasts connected to each headlight before mounting.

Unlike the HID Xenon H4 kits I've installed on the Jetmax and Dragstar 1100 Classic, the H8 kits do not require a positive/negative feed from the battery. All wires bar two (2) plug into one another either into or out of the ballast, making for an almost closed loop. Only the two wires that connect into the headlight bulb plug are externally connected.

I had to use a small file to modify the three (3) prongs on the H8 base of the HIDs as they were a mm or less too thick or wide. Took a little bit of effort to get this accomplished just right so they'd fit into the reflector base and turn.

Attachment 13925

Wires from ballast connected via correct sized spade connectors to H8 plug. The wiring and plug were then placed within the back section of the headlight with two OEM wires exiting the dust cover as per the regular egress points within the dust cover. The external wires from the ballast were allowed to exit via the side of the dust cover where it fitted over the rear of the headlight surround. I may in future feed the two external wires in alongside the OEM factory wires.

Attachment 13926

I placed the ballasts in between the LHS & RHS side fairing and an internal plastic tupperware 'wall' that sits to the sides but lower than the instrument cluster. I utilised the double sided foam 3M adhesive supplied with the HID kit, by sticking this to the underside of each ballast and then to the internal plastic tupperware wall. I also added some cable/zip ties to reinforce the double sided foam tape - just in case. Trimmed the extra cable/zip ties.

Attachment 13927

Clean uncluttered HID and electrics install. Click and zoom into the picture above, one can just make out the location of the ballasts to the sides of the screen mounting frame in the foreground.

Attachment 13928

Dust cover in place showing the two OEM wires exiting from the plug. I might route the two wires from the ballast through this access point on each side. For now they exit higher up to the side by the dust cover against the face of the rear headlight surround. Out of camera shot. Tested HIDs and headlight every step along the install, and attempted to adjust beam in darkened garage before putting all tupperware etc back together.

Attachment 13929

HID Xenon 55W 6000K. No up/down toggle. LHS headlight low beam on as per normal. RHS headlight illuminates with high beam switch only as per normal. Flash to pass illuminates RHS headlight only as per normal.

Results:

Both low and high beam are very bight, placing more useable light on the road. Low beam still retains a horizontal rectangle shaped light beam, but with more light and seeminlgy more dispersed light on the edges of the rectangle. High beam retains pencil beam spot light.

Attachment 13930

Low beam.

Attachment 13931

High beam.

I have found that with just the low beam on, there is less need for use of the high beam, even with adjustment to beam cutoff etc to avoid dazzling oncoming or other road users not that many of them seemingly care about others! The great thing is that both headlights can be adjusted up/down independently of one another.

After first riding with just low beam, I switched to high beam during daylight test ride. After a few km's I found that the horns did not function. Turned off headlights before turning off ignition, and checked horn fuse then wiring. All good to go. Ignition on, press horn, could barely hear a 'frog like croak'. After a period of time, horn came back to full function. Started bike engine, without incident, turned on LED's all good. Turned on headlight low beam, no go. High beam came on with flick of high beam switch. Headlight switched to LEDs, checked flash to pass and RHS headlight illuminated momentarily as expected. Ignition off. Pulled headlight dust cover, all connections good. Unplugged, re-plugged. Still no joy on low beam. Pulled RHS headlight connectors to H8 plug and swapped with LHS H8 plug. Still no go on LHS HID bulb. Reconnected LHS ballast to LHS H8 plug and RHS to RHS H8 plug. Switch on ignition and headlight switch to on, low beam, back on again.

Consequently through more riding yesterday and last night I've found that the 650TR alternator likely is at the very limit of what it can supply when both low and high beams are on with the HID system. After a time, the horn stops working. Found coincidentally, as I'm a frequent horn offender (sorry to say, but this is PRC and TIC rules apply). With the high beam off horn comes back into play after a minute or so. Same issue occurs with the LHS headlight, not illuminating when both LHS and RHS HID bulbs are on at the same time for a period.

It's likely I'll need to install a pair of relays, one for each HID ballast. Possibly even one for the horns. Either than or I might drop 'back' to a HID Xenon 35W 6000K kit instead.

In the two comparison photos above, the beams might appear a little low compared to what some riders might percieve as optimal, however, this was photo was taken on an incline, facing upwards (heading along a mountain road before a series of sharp turns). The suspension sits a little squat with myself on it, when compared to no rider, and more importantly when under power. With the bike powering along the front suspension will rise slightly giving better penetration ahead than that shown in the photos. The high beam I altered several times throughout the ride last night, to get the distance throw I wanted.

Aside from the likely need for installing a pair or three of relays, the lights are a big improvement on the OEM H8 35w Halogens.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

HID Xenon 55W 6000K. No up/down toggle. LHS headlight low beam on as per normal. RHS headlight illuminates with high beam switch only as per normal. Flash to pass illuminates RHS headlight only as per normal.

Results:

Both low and high beam are very bight, placing more useable light on the road. Low beam still retains a horizontal rectangle shaped light beam, but with more light and seeminlgy more dispersed light on the edges of the rectangle. High beam retains pencil beam spot light.

Attachment 13930

Low beam.

Attachment 13931

High beam.

I have found that with just the low beam on, there is less need for use of the high beam, even with adjustment to beam cutoff etc to avoid dazzling oncoming or other road users not that many of them seemingly care about others! The great thing is that both headlights can be adjusted up/down independently of one another.

After first riding with just low beam, I switched to high beam during daylight test ride. After a few km's I found that the horns did not function. Turned off headlights before turning off ignition, and checked horn fuse then wiring. All good to go. Ignition on, press horn, could barely hear a 'frog like croak'. After a period of time, horn came back to full function. Started bike engine, without incident, turned on LED's all good. Turned on headlight low beam, no go. High beam came on with flick of high beam switch. Headlight switched to LEDs, checked flash to pass and RHS headlight illuminated momentarily as expected. Ignition off. Pulled headlight dust cover, all connections good. Unplugged, re-plugged. Still no joy on low beam. Pulled RHS headlight connectors to H8 plug and swapped with LHS H8 plug. Still no go on LHS HID bulb. Reconnected LHS ballast to LHS H8 plug and RHS to RHS H8 plug. Switch on ignition and headlight switch to on, low beam, back on again.

Consequently through more riding yesterday and last night I've found that the 650TR alternator likely is at the very limit of what it can supply when both low and high beams are on with the HID system. After a time, the horn stops working. Found coincidentally, as I'm a frequent horn offender (sorry to say, but this is PRC and TIC rules apply). With the high beam off horn comes back into play after a minute or so. Same issue occurs with the LHS headlight, not illuminating when both LHS and RHS HID bulbs are on at the same time for a period.

It's likely I'll need to install a pair of relays, one for each HID ballast. Possibly even one for the horns. Either than or I might drop 'back' to a HID Xenon 35W 6000K kit instead.

---

Funny thing that yesterday i had similar trouble with my horn. it did make noise but not so loud.
this was after 30-40 min in night time at traffic and today morning it was ok again. but that has not happen to me before when i have been driving on normal speeds.

My Xenon ballast are connected to battery via relay, but both are operated by only one relay as i run both lights on same time.

In post #4 above I made mention of the issues the TR was experiencing with the low and high beam 55w HID being on at the same time. Remedied this by swapping the low beam (LHS) headlight for a 35w HID kit. meaning I replaced the ballast and bulb. So far the combination of 35w HID 6000K on low and 55w HID 6000K on the high beam side is working fine. No issues with the horn not working at all.

I took your advice biker doc and used 35W Hid low beam and 55W high BUT I used the new fast switching ballasts which have a much higher startup current 8 amps each so I had to conect the high beam via its own relay to the battery because I would blow the head light fuse.

The fast start ballasts work great, you can flash high beam just like a halogen. They only draw the same power as standard ballasts when running but do have this high start up surge. So low beam on the original wiring and high beam on a relay works just like halagon but with 300% more natural white light. I now have 90watts of hid plus my 2 Cree high power leads on high beam which light up the heavens when required. I love even just the single 35watt hid on low beam for night time street riding and my leds for day time with the hids off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trebor

I took your advice biker doc and used 35W Hid low beam and 55W high BUT I used the new fast switching ballasts which have a much higher startup current 8 amps each so I had to conect the high beam via its own relay to the battery because I would blow the head light fuse.

The fast start ballasts work great, you can flash high beam just like a halogen. They only draw the same power as standard ballasts when running but do have this high start up surge. So low beam on the original wiring and high beam on a relay works just like halagon but with 300% more natural white light. I now have 90watts of hid plus my 2 Cree high power leads on high beam which light up the heavens when required. I love even just the single 35watt hid on low beam for night time street riding and my leds for day time with the hids off.

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+1
The amount and distribution of light given off by the 35W 6000K HID low beam is like chalk versus cheese with the H8 35W Halogen. The addition of the 55W high beam "spot light pencil beam" which throws off into the distance is a real plus.

The fast start ballast options sound like really nice feature, which I hadn't heard about and am unsure if such an option exists here, as getting relevant, accurate information is well, problematic at the best of times here in the TIC zone.

Trebor, post up some night pics of the HIDs in operation if you can so we can get to see what it is you get to see... :mwink:

I bought my HIDs in Australia but like everything else they were made in China. The fast start ballasts are new, they were recomeded to me after I said that I would only buy the low beam Hid and keep the high beam halagon because of the switching issue. I got fast start for both but in hind site I should have used standard ballast for 35watt low beam and fast for the 55watt high beam. The ballasts are called pro vision and have a 5 year replacement warranty unfortunately they don't have a brand name but must be the best Chinese ones available to carry that warranty. So they are available in China but I don't know how you would find them. http://www.hidlighting.com.au/hid-co...tml#motorcycle