New Adrenaline Owner

Hey guys I've recently bought a pulse adrenaline 125 (pics coming soon) and i was wondering if some of the guru's on here could help me out.

Don't blast me if i'm wrong but the standard front sprocket is a 16t? and swapping to a 14t would increase acceleration at the cost of a lower top speed without having to swap chains (i realize this causes extra stress on parts) or would a 17t make more sense for the longer gears?

Another thing is i have a big bore kit hopefully on its way for a suzuki gs/gn125 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1310234806...84.m1423.l2649 i know this has been asked countless time on this website but would somebody be kind enough to let me know if everything i need is in this pack, i know that i need to ask for the flat piston (not sure why, but i wont argue)

More mods! after spending countless hours sifting through this website i found this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1707763437...84.m1423.l2649 How easy are these to fit? is it just a simple remove old air box then screw this badboy on? and hearing good reviews (apart from sucking up water) can somebody tell me how this helps?

Will all these parts work ok together? will i need extra bits? will it all fall apart if i get a yoshimura exhaust?

Please help guys, im in love with the pulse adrenaline but im finding it very hard not to sell it and get a ktm

Hi, I believe that the standard front sprocket on a Pulse Adrenaline is a 15 tooth (you could always count the teeth to make sure), lowering the size to a 14 tooth should in theory increase acceleration with the disadvantages of lowering the top speed, fuel economy and engine life due to the higher RPMs you will be running at, in my opinion it isn't worth it as you can pretty much get the same effect by staying in gears longer. You shouldn't need a different size chain as long as you don't go up or down more than 1 sprocket size. If you go with all the exhaust, filter and big bore mods a 17 tooth would be wise as you will have more torque at your disposal and you wont have to red line it to achieve good speeds.

You do indeed get everything you need in the big bore kit. Before you start installing it make sure that you have a good quality socket and spanner set, a rubber mallet, a tube of RTV silicone sealant (instant gasket), a pair of needle nose pliers, a torque wrench that has a range covering 10 and 20nm and a set of feeler gauges that come with the sizes 0.08mm and 0.1mm. You need a flat piston because the valves would hit it otherwise, the domed one is for EN125 engines I think.

The eBay item that you linked has been removed but I'll assume that it's a cone filter, you need a 38mm by the way. You simply remove the air filter box and strap it on to your carb. There will be 2 tubes connecting to the old air box; one comes from the engine and the other goes to the SAI valve, you just need to tuck them out of the way so rain and dirt cant get in them, for bonus points secure a piece of cloth over them to act as a filter. You will need to waterproof it some how or it will such in water when it rains, if you don't mine too much about appearance you can do as I have done and cut the top 1/4 off a 2l drinks bottle and put it around the filter.

With these mods you will need a few adjustments to your carb. You have 3 main things to adjust in your carb; the idle mixture which controls the air to fuel ratio from idle to 1/4 throttle, the slide needle position which controls the mixture from 1/4 to 3/4 and the main jet which controls the mix for 3/4 to wide open throttle. The main jet is inside the float bowl and just unscrews, the idle mixture screw is on the underside of the carb closest to the front of the bike (clockwise = less fuel), the needle is attached to the side which is attached to the throttle cable, to release it there is a clip you have to remove, raising the needle = more fuel). Rather than writing a whole page on the subject I'll just give you some rough settings that should be ok:

cone filter or exhaust only: 110 main jet, adjust idle mixture screw to achieve best idle speed

cone filter and exhaust: 110 main, adjust idle mixture screw to achieve best idle speed and raise needle 1 notch
The big bore has more suction so doesn't require more jetting.

There's a thread on here somewhere about this with pictures if you can find it.

I can't see how it would fall apart with a Yoshimure exhaust as long as you do it all right, just do regular oil and filter changes every 3000km or so and don't red line it for miles on end.

Here is my mods thread by the way:
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...le-mods-so-far

Thankyou Spencer!!!
What an amazing response i didn't expect that and fast too!!
My speedo cable has broken am i right in thinking that this is a simple unscrew and replace job? or does something need to be calibrated?
Again thankyou so much :)

You're very welcome.

Yeah just replace the cable, I don't think there is even a way to calibrate it anyway.