CFmoto 650TR/TK - Wobbling & Vibrations

OK. Now my CFmoto 650TR is running about 5000km now and I noticed that the handlebars are wobbling at around 80kmh. Not very bad wobbling, but if I were to just grab the handlebars with one hand, lightly, I will feel the handlebars wobbling. Like shaking left and right.

Also, ever since I got the bike, I noticed that when my RPM hits around the 4000-5000 mark, the bike starts to vibrate. I mean vibrate on the leg pegs and the handle grips, so, by the time I reach my destination, my feet and fingertips are numb.

Has anybody got any same problems as me? I have sent the bike to the service center but the mechanic said that this is normal for a heavy bike. He also said that the ER6 and Honda's give the same problems...(I think its a load of crap) but I am no mechanic.

So, can anybody help me??? Please.... I don't want the bike bike to continue vibrating so much that one day, because of the vibrations, the screws all get loose and my engine falls out while I am riding. (just kidding)

hi it sounds like you might need to get your wheel balanced again if you have much tyre tread left or look at getting new tyres...ive got a cfmoto 650nk 9000kms and not had this problem

sounds like a unbalanced wheel, but bar vibration could be engine vibrations as well I've ridden the Kawasaki ER-6F for 4 hours solid at the end my hands felt numb as well and this was the 2011 model that has a rubber mounted engine, if it is just engine vibrations fitting heavy bar ends will help and maybe changing the pegs to ones with more rubber.

Kennon

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the feedback. But I already had the wheels balanced. That's the first thing I did. Didn't make much difference. I am thinking it could be the steering stems,..I think that's whats it's called. The thing that holds the forks together to the frame...there is a nut or two.. Maybe it needs tightening. Not too sure. But I will continue to try before the bike gives way. This by the way is the handlebars wobbling.

As for the vibrations, still haven't figured it out yet. Seems like it's 2 different issue.

hi all..i just joined MCM. i bought my cfmoto650tk dec2013..ridden 4000km..so far so good..i have not experience wobbling..just sharing

The balance issue might be related to tyre pressures, wheel balance (though to be honest in PRC I've yet to find any motorcycle tyre facility that actually has, uses or even demonstrates knowledge on how/why MC wheels should be balanced). Interestingly this hasn't proved a hindrance to any of my rides. Worn steering head bearings or a loose steering head can cause poor handling, and vibration. The steering head nut might need torquing to correct spec's.

Worth checking all the engine mount bolts, as any one of those loose or missing etc,. will impact handling, including vibration etc. In terms of vibration, twin cylinder MC's are notorious for vibration, especially (though not limited too) in-line twins.

I rode a CB500X for 7 weeks in NW Thailand at the start of this year (2014) and for the first week, I experienced some numbness in one hand and a foot, for the first time in 32+ years of riding MC's (still loved the CB500X though and only wish they were available legally in PRC). This numbness all disappeared after that first week or less of daily rides. I've a XT1200 Super Tenere, also a in-line twin cylinder, and this model MC has been reported to cause numbness to some riders/owners. Although I've not experienced the vibration, it's discussed on relevant MC forums, ad-nauseam. I've other twin cylinder bikes and maxi scooters which don't seem to cause any significant vibration that I can feel, but they might just do so, but not have an effect on me.

YMMV.

I had some wobbling issue while back, and it turns out it was the tyre! after chancing the tyre wobbling stopped.

It might be tyre related, - on many tyres there is often a solid white or yellow coloured dot on the outside wall of a tyre. This is used as a mounting indicator by skilled tyre techs to make sure that the dot location of the tyre is mounted closest to the valve stem on the rim. This indicates the point at which the tyre is the lightest (though there are red dots too but these are more commonly found on truck tyres and to a lesser extent car tyres). The valve stem represents the heaviest point of the wheel/rim. So by aligning the two close together, one is effectively given the best initial balance of the wheel. If the tyre has a red dot, ignore the yellow dot. Iif you have a steel wheel/rim, look for the low point dimple on the wheel/rim, and mount the tyre with the red dot next to the low point dimple. If the wheel is aluminium, or if it’s steel, but has no low point dimple, mount the tyre with the red dot next to the valve stem.

While steel wheels are forged, aluminium wheels are machined. For that reason, aluminium wheels are very uniform in their overall balance. And, if you look at an aluminium wheel, you notice that where a hole has been cut into the wheel/rim, an identical size and shape hole is cut at a location 180 degrees opposite it.

The result is that even with all their cut-outs and holes, aluminium wheels/rims are still very uniform in balance. Except for one place, where the valve stem is located. At that spot, the manufacturer has to bore a hole through the wheel/rim for the stem, removing metal from the wheel/rim.

That hole is about 9.7mm in diameter and the aluminium at that point is usually about 7.6mm thick. The aluminium weighs about 2.64 grams /cm3, therefore the aluminium removed to make the hole weighs about 0.52 ounces

The red dot is much more complicated than the yellow dot. It indicates the “radial force variation first harmonic maximum.” It’s a way of indicating where the centrifugal force tending to pull the rotating tyre away from the wheel is greatest. Another way of looking at it is that in a sense, if the tyre were out of round, the red dot would more or less correspond to the “high point” or place where radial run-out forces are greatest.

Matching the dots is no substitute for balancing tyre and wheel assemblies. What it does, however, is give you the best start, so you are more likely to use less total weight to bring an assembly into balance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

It might be tyre related, - on many tyres there is often a solid white or yellow coloured dot on the outside wall of a tyre. This is used as a mounting indicator by skilled tyre techs to make sure that the dot location of the tyre is mounted closest to the valve stem on the rim. This indicates the point at which the tyre is the lightest (though there are red dots too but these are more commonly found on truck tyres and to a lesser extent car tyres). The valve stem represents the heaviest point of the wheel/rim. So by aligning the two close together, one is effectively given the best initial balance of the wheel. If the tyre has a red dot, ignore the yellow dot. Iif you have a steel wheel/rim, look for the low point dimple on the wheel/rim, and mount the tyre with the red dot next to the low point dimple. If the wheel is aluminium, or if it’s steel, but has no low point dimple, mount the tyre with the red dot next to the valve stem.

While steel wheels are forged, aluminium wheels are machined. For that reason, aluminium wheels are very uniform in their overall balance. And, if you look at an aluminium wheel, you notice that where a hole has been cut into the wheel/rim, an identical size and shape hole is cut at a location 180 degrees opposite it.

The result is that even with all their cut-outs and holes, aluminium wheels/rims are still very uniform in balance. Except for one place, where the valve stem is located. At that spot, the manufacturer has to bore a hole through the wheel/rim for the stem, removing metal from the wheel/rim.

That hole is about 9.7mm in diameter and the aluminium at that point is usually about 7.6mm thick. The aluminium weighs about 2.64 grams /cm3, therefore the aluminium removed to make the hole weighs about 0.52 ounces

The red dot is much more complicated than the yellow dot. It indicates the “radial force variation first harmonic maximum.” It’s a way of indicating where the centrifugal force tending to pull the rotating tyre away from the wheel is greatest. Another way of looking at it is that in a sense, if the tyre were out of round, the red dot would more or less correspond to the “high point” or place where radial run-out forces are greatest.

Matching the dots is no substitute for balancing tyre and wheel assemblies. What it does, however, is give you the best start, so you are more likely to use less total weight to bring an assembly into balance.

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I am all dotted out now Doc


But well put Doc :thumbsup::thumbsup: