My motorcycle mods so far

Hi, I thought that I might as well make a thread showing off the mods that I've done to my Sinnis Max and include some details on how to do them. First of all my motorcycle has the K157FMI Suzuki GN125 clone engine which is the same as the engine on the Pulse adrenaline so Pulse owners can apply most of this to their own bike.

Attachment 6944

Here's the pod filter I fitted a while ago, I fitted a plastic bottle around it to protect it from the rain and trust me this is essential in heavy rain, last week a shortened it a bit and now it sucks in rain water and stalls the engine while idling, the protector should be at least as long as the pod filter it's self. The inlet diameter for the carb is 42mm, I'm pretty sure that this applies to the Pulse Adrenaline too and probably all other K157FMI engine bikes as well. After I fitted this I moved up from the stock 97.5 main jet to a 105, I got a minor performance increase but nothing to get excited about, it did make a nice noise while accelerating however but my new exhaust masks this now.

Fitting a pod filter requires the removal of the air filter box, for some reason this was very hard to do as I could not find any way it could slip out of the frame, it was almost like the frame was built around the air filter box. you will be left with 2 pipes that were originally attached to the air box; the crank case breather and the SIA valve inlet. Basically the crank case breather lets out gasses that sneak past the piston from the cylinder and the SAI or 'secondary air induction' valve pumps air into the exhaust gasses to burn up any un-burnt hydrocarbons to reduce emissions. These 2 remaining pipes should be left facing to the rear of the bike to prevent water or debris from entering them and secured with zip ties. I should have bought separate filters for these but I just secured a bit of old t-shirt over both of them to act as a filter.

Oh yeah and you will need to secure the battery with some zip ties or something as it originally rests on the air filter box.

Attachment 6946

EDIT: THIS EXHAUST CAN WAS A PIECE OF SHIT DON'T BOTHER BUYING ONE!

Here is the chrome exhaust can I have just fitted, I have noticed increased acceleration and a few MPH added to the top speed. It can be found here or if the link is broken search for "UNIVERSAL SILENCER 15" TAPERED". On it's own it is far too loud, using it on it's own would probably attract police from neighbouring counties and piss off everyone within a 10 mile radius so it must be fitted with a DB killer and some baffle wool. When fitting mine I got a DB killer for a 50mm outlet which I had to shorten slightly and cut vertical lines around the widest part to fit into the can (kind of like a castle nut), I drilled a hole in the end of the can to fit the db killer on with a nut and bolt. I wrapped the db killer loosely in 1 layer of baffle wool secured with some copper wire, this greatly reduced the noise to what I assume are legal levels. The can comes with a bracket which must be drilled so secure to the existing exhaust bracket mount, this was actually a bitch to drill because the metal is such good quality, I melted about 3 drill bits. On my particular model of bike the exhaust is 1 whole system welded together so I had to cut the existing can off using an angle grinder which was easy enough, the exhaust can then just slips on and is secured with a clamp. My pipe is just under 36mm in diameter so I had to wrap a couple of layers of sticky silver foil around the end and use some high temp RTV sealant to keep it air tight. Note that (as far as I know) the exhaust pipe on the pulse adrenaline has a smaller diameter and has a slip on exhaust as standard so this particular exhaust can may not with without the use of something to bridge the gap. I moved up from a 105 to a 110 jet after fitting the exhaust, I could probably push it to a 115 but I can't be arsed to do a plug chop test to see if the air to fuel mix is right.

Attachment 6945

Here are the LEDs I have fitted to the front and read mudguards; I have red at the back wired to the brake lights and white at the front wired directly to the battery with it's own fuse. Each set of lights are wired to their own switches so they can be turned off or on at will, the switches are illuminated when turned on which I find quite useful as I'm less likely to leave them on over night.

Attachment 6947

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The front LEDs are glued and secured with zip ties but the rear ones are just glued on, super glue is enough to secure these as they are very light, as you can see in the picture I have glued on some kitchen foil to act as a reflector which actually works quite well. These lights look amazing in the dark especially on unlit roads. The LED strips can be obtained here by the way. When wiring them up I used 2 3 pin switches; pin 1 goes to live (positive terminal on battery or positive terminal / pin / wire for break lights), pin 2 goes to the positive wire for the LED strip and pin 3 connects to the ground wire on the LED strip and also goes to ground or the common pin / wire / terminal on break lights.

I chose white at the front and red at the back as this is the only legal way to do it (I think), anything other than white at the front, yellow on the sides and red at the back is illegal. Blue and green lights can look too much like emergency vehicles so stay away from them and no flashing or stobeing lights either. This doesn't apply when you are of road by the way, you can do what ever you like then.

Attachment 6949

Attachment 6950

Other stuff:
Rear luggage box; very useful for storing shopping or your helmet when leaving your bike somewhere, I couldn't live with out it.

Heated grips; essential for the winter.

Iridium spark plug; makes the engine run a tad better and lasts longer than standard spark plugs, I have the CR8EIX version.

Future mods:
Big bore kit

Oil cooler

Racing tyres (possibly)

Amber LEDs fitted under the fuel tank and wired to the indicators

Here's a fairly unique mod that I've done; it's a fully functional cigarette lighter which can also be used to plug various accessories into such as a phone charger. I simply cut a hole in the side fairing, put the cigarette lighter socket into it and wired it directly to the battery.

Attachment 7046

And here are the indicator LEDs, I have glued them to the under side of the fuel tank and wired them to the rear indicators, they work very well in the dark and they illuminate the engine quite nicely.

Attachment 7047

I'll probably order the big bore kit on monday, I plan to take lots of pictures and make a step-by-step guide for others to follow so stay tuned for that :)

Hi where did you get your main jet from?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2208286564...84.m1439.l2649

How does the new exhaust sound vs the old one?

Ill be picking up a new bike between now and december, currently im set on the LexMoto lowrider, which also has a K157FMI engine in it. One of the first mods is going to be the exhaust, ive got a few megaphone style ones saved, just weighing up the options as to which gives the best performance boost whilst sounding nice, not to loud and not to wimpy.

Well as a matter of fact I put my old exhaust back on a few days ago mainly because I have my test next monday. I think the performance actually improved a little which is a bit confusing. Now I can actually hear my air filter and it makes a great exhaust like sound now. I never liked the shiny exhaust can because it looked like crap and it was too loud for my liking.

There are a lot of nice exhausts on taobao that should fit your bike, it might be a better option for you as you will have to cut your current exhaust in half to put a new can on as it is welded together into a single piece.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=10525886453

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spencer2004

Well as a matter of fact I put my old exhaust back on a few days ago mainly because I have my test next monday. I think the performance actually improved a little which is a bit confusing.

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Nothing to be really confused about.
Most "cheaper" aftermarket exhausts leave the bike with less power, very often in the most important mid of your rpm range (there where you are most of the time in city traffic), and especially if you do not change fuel settings in the carburetor or the FI system.

The only reason you THINK an aftermarket exhaust increases power is the noise, which tickles the brain ...
It requires the expensive exhausts (and consequently the R&D behind it) to get power gains.

Did you get round to doing a big bore upgrade, if so any real gains in performance with it?

A little noticeable gain but nothing amazing.

Whats the intake manifold on this model made of, and is it a straight or angled/curved pitch?

Asking as ive been having some start up issues on my Lexmoto Lowride (Identical K157FMI engine) and discovered a small hole on the intake manifold yesterday, patched it up to get the bike started, today its now a big hole so another day or so and itll be useless.

Just got onto the dealer as the bike is under warranty, but not to struck on them replacing it with the same make\model part.

It's straight and made of a combination of metal (which I assume is aluminum or aluminium) and rubber. How on earth did you get a hole in it? Do you mean the hole at the top? because that is supposed to be connected to the SAI valve.

Sounds like its the same as mine, the nozzle at the top goes to the SAIvalve, but on the under side out of nowhere a hole appeared O_o

I did a 8 mile ride, parked up for 6 hours or so, then went to start up and ride back home and it wouldnt start, sounded like it was pulling in air, upon inspection on the under side of the manifold a small hole had appeared. Now its gone from a small hole a big one\crack, seems to be riping right around the middle, crappy britle rubber.

Was looking around and the version used on the LSM has an all metal construction, not having any luck finding one for the K157FMI engine tho, just more rubber\metal type ones.

Damn it took me about 20 minutes to find this, I was about to give up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inlet-Mani...item2a22b5f6bf

Rather expensive for such a small and simple part :/

Update :O

I believe that I have some sort of condition that prevents me from not messing with my bike every chance I get, since my last post I have added an alarm, a couple of spotlights and some LEDs around my headlight.

The alarm was a bargain at £20 inc postage from eBay, if you have one of thoes 9 pin connectors under your seat it's literally plug and play, if not then have fun wiring it up manually ;P. The alarm I bought has a remote start which is kinds cool but pretty useless in winter as you need to engage the choke first.

The LEDs around my headlight were just glued on poorly and look scabby close up but I like them, besides looking cool they make you more visible at night and it's a good backup if your headlight bulb dies on you. To wire them up I simply drilled a small hole in the headlight rim, poked the wires through and wired them up to the headlight power wires. For thoes that have the same bike/wiring harness/colour coding as me the headlight has 3 wires connecting to it; white, blue and green. White is low beam +, blue is high beam + and green is ground.

Riding along unlit country roads in the rain with a 35w headlight is fookin scary, I tried putting a H4 55w bulb in and it kinda worked until it melted the reflector and stopped the high beam from aiming properly so I stuck the 35w back in and opted for a couple of 55w spotlights which were just under £14 for the pair. The original wiring probably wouldn't be able to handle the 110 watts so I wired a relay to the high beam circuit (blue and green wires) which controlled a power line directly from the battery. The lights them selves are mounted where the indicators were and the indicators are mounted on temporary plastic mounts until I can figure out a better solution. I haven't tested them out yet but I think I may have an issue or 2 with getting the aim spot on. In the future I may get a cheap HID kit and fit it to the spotlights depending on how well they perform.

Upcoming mods:
Need to fit performance camshaft I bought ages ago but too lazy
New exhaust
Fix heated grips
Fit hand guards

Attachment 9118

Oh yeah! NO L PLATES WOOO!

The alarm you went with, it wouldnt happen to be this cyclone model is it? (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CYCLONE-MO...item2c4eb03012) I've been looking at picking one up but couldnt find any good reviews.

The new spotlights are looking good, how bright are they? I've been considering swapping out the 2 spotlights on my lowride for something with a bit more power, since i do a fair bit of night riding.

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Riding along unlit country roads in the rain with a 35w headlight is fookin scary

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I know that feeling :( i ended up riding round by delamere\hatchmere on wednesday at midnight with no headlights at all after the rectifier went bad, coupled with a leak on the petrol tank, not a nice experience.

Whilst renember, does your bike have a rev limiter on it?/restricted CDI, Mine never did, or at least i never noticed one, but after recent troubles with the rectifier and getting the bike back from been fixed, I can now feel a limiter which stops high revs forcing me to change up a gear before i even need to.

Nah it was this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1706624823...84.m1439.l2649

I think just about all motorcycle alarms are universal as long as they have the 9 pin connector, I have had my alarm for about 2 weeks and I have found no problem with it yet.

I don't know how the spotlights will perform in the dark but I will test them out when I get the chance. I belive that you have 35W bulbs in your lowride and you might get away with just changing them for 55Ws.

My bike dosen't have a rev limiter but it's hard to say if yours is limited or not. Since our engine is pretty weak there is little need to limit it. What does your CDI say on it? Mine just says GS125 which is a standard and unrestricted CDI but maybe they made a restricted one and maybe the mechanic replaced your one with a new restricted version. How many revs are you getting before you feel the restriction?

Im getting to 5k revs when the restriction hits, the bike seems to chug and pull back dropping the revs, happens in all gears, prior to the bike been in the dealers it used to plod along nicely at 7\8k revs in any gear with no issues.

Ill go pull the seat of and see what the CDI has on it then post back, if it is restricted ill see if i can find the same cdi yours has and buy that.

Ah I think I know what the problem is :O! If you open the throttle slowly the main jet will kick in at roughly 5k revs; I think that your main jet is clogged up!

Hmm that was one of my first thoughts, i intially thought maybe some crap was in the new tank they fitted and got sucked into the carb, didnt have chance to take the carb of and check thanks to the crappy weather, and the dealer refused to acknowledge any issue exists when i pointed it out to them, ill check that out before anything else, thanks, ill post back how it goes.

Update, after stripping the carb theres no signs of a blockage, gave it a good clean and checked everythin over, all seems ok, besides the main o ring\seal been a twat to put back together.

After lots of little adjustments on the mixture screw (stupidly possitioned), its almost running right again, instead of the rev chugs happening round 5k its now hitting 8 and 9k before it happens, so another few small turns and then back of the idle mixture screw and it should be spot on again, then ill pull out the airbox and make sure its not pulling air in from any holes etc.

Not sure whats gone on tho, the dealer only swaped petrol tanks, so i cant see them having messed the mixture up, the pipe going from the fuel tap to the carb was also replaced for a bigger pipe, but that would'nt cause it would it?

A bigger pipe shouldn't have caused it however if there was any crap inside the pipe it could have caused a blockage or restriction somewhere. When I replaced my fuel pipe I think I got something sucked into my carb because the float thingy inside got stuck and was causing fuel to come out of the overflow pipe but I could not see any dirt inside either. I am kind of confused as to how changing the idle mix fixed your problem as that only affects the fuel to air ratio from idle to about 1/8 throttle.

I've just thought of another possible cause actually; I removed my carb once to change the main jet and after I replaced it I would get the same symptoms as you. It would run fine at low revs but anything higher than about 5k it would missfire and it confused the hell out of me for a while but I then discovered that I had an intake leak between the carb and the cylinder head. I fixed the problem by making a gasket with some thick gasket paper to ensure a good seal and put it between the intake boot and the cylinder head and it worked, a new o-ring would probably have worked too. The origional oring wasn't damaged so maybe our engine and carb are prone to warping in places over time.

Ok so the spot lights were good but only slightly better than the headlight so I put a couple of HID bulbs in them. Wiring the HID kit was sort of a pain in the arse since there is no room for the balasts in or on the head light unit so I had to put them under the seat where the air box used to be. This required a wire from the main beam wire to a relay which connects the battery to the balasts and then 4 wires go to the bulbs. Because I am a cheapo I used some wire I took out of an old washing machine, this wire was too short so I soldered several pieses together and insulated the connections with heat shrink, because 20,000 volts likes to jump through the air a bit more than 12 volts I was getting arcs of electricrty comming from every joint to the frame. A few bits of electrical tape later the arcing problem was solved and I waterproffed the balasts with a saisburys bag and some more electrical tape and shoved all the excess wiring and the balasts under the seat because I really couldn't be bothered to do it propely.

So I went out in the dark a while ago and tested them out and so far it seems really good, the beam is focused enough to illuminate the road ahead and there is a lot of light leakage so it illuminates the ground directly in front of me too. The light is a slight shade of blue instead of being yellow which looks very nice. The bulbs take about 10 seconds to warm up but they seem to be at full brightness for a fraction of a second when first turned on which is useful for flashing people.

I think it's worth getting a kit for your bike if you go on country roads at night, the kit is only £20 and is pretty easy to install. I wouldn't use it as a dipped beam however as it will blind everyone comming towards you and would be an MOT fail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spencer2004

as to how changing the idle mix fixed your problem as that only affects the fuel to air ratio from idle to about 1/8 throttle..

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No the other screw, on my carb theres an idle screw on the side and if you get down and look under the carb theres a second screw for high rev mixture, ive adjusted it quite a bit (6 ful turns at least) and the bike seems to be performaing again like normal, done a plug check after the first few rides to make sure its not to rich\weak but its spot on. Which adds to the confusion, that screw should not of been changed by the dealers, just to swap over petrol tanks, unless they are trying dirty tactics to get me to go to hem for a service.

Got some new mods lined up just awaiting the parts been delivered, first up ordered a set of these;

Attachment 9509

Going to wire them in so they come on\of with the headlight. And theres some red LED strips to come, which will be fitted to the rear of the pilion back rest, then wired intot he rear brake.

Hmmmm thats wierd, it sounds like your mech changed your idle fuel/air mix for some reason. 6 turns is a lot, your idle jet must be way too small; you should only have to turn it about 2 times.

What are thoes lights supposed to be by the way? Can you send me a link?

From my experiences so far the mech at my dealer is under qualified\knows nothing about what hes doing, the bike was not pdi checked for starters, and all the problems ive had etc.

The lights are handguards, ive fitted heated grips, and figured some handguards would also help keep the icy winds of my hands, these ones caught my attention since they will let on coming idiots know exactly how wide my bike is.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorbike-...item2326006d61

Oh bugger I've just got some standard hand guards but I wish I got them instead, they are much cooler.

I don't like mechanics either, I paid a mech to service my bike when I first got it and the guy that did it looked like he was on work experence. He did an oil and filter change, changed the spark plug when it didn't need changing and lubricated some stuff with this horrible lube that looked like seamen and charged me almost £90. After that I bought a Haynes manual and read it seveal times, now I can do my own services and pretty much anything else that needs doing.

You could always get some white led strips and mod your hand guards as you already have the switch for your front mudguard LED's in place, the guards i've got im just wiring directly into the headlight.

Was also considering one of these;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gauze-Air-...item231a5b225a

But not sure if it will increase performance (even if its just by a little bit)

off topic, happy xmas dude!

happy xmas too :)

I did consider that air filter but I thought the cover would be too restrictive so I just got a standard cone filter and put half a coke bottle around it to keep the rain off and it turns out a rain cover is essential. I got a small performance gain from my cone filter paired with a bigger main jet in the carb and the filter makes a nice induction noise.

I might put some amber led strips on my hand guards and wire them to the indicator circuit since i have some laying about and then get rid of my front indicators

I've got ot take my carb of and check what size jet is currently in it before i do the air filter mod, so i might wait for better weather to do that since my bikes currently kept on the drive, and do the sprocket mod in the mean time.

I did come across these filters which have a half cover http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle...item2ea0c9f788 if it does the job right at stoping the rain id go with that one over the other one as it goes better with my bike style, and its easier to clean out.