Bob: Gap it at .028 thru .030 no less than .028 since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more bang. My original was like almost closed at .019 thus little spark.
You should notice a decent difference
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Bob: Gap it at .028 thru .030 no less than .028 since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more bang. My original was like almost closed at .019 thus little spark.
You should notice a decent difference
Hi "Bubba Bobber" fans. I ampurchasing a 2012 Bubba 250cc, wanted the sprringer forks and ape handle bars. Also i have heard that they improved the carb on it, i already own a 2008 1200 custom sportster and love it! but i have been attracted to the bob style for a while and did not want to strip my sportster. i should have it in a couple of weeks, excited to ride it. i live in Sioux Falls, S.D. so it is not decent climate yet! I am happy to have founf this site and will post pics as soon as i can. I have been following some of the threads on here and it sounds like a good place to come and share and or get some help with questions.
Welcome to the Bobber forum terrilb05! You will love the Light Bobber Cycle. I have a Harley Street Glide so its great to have a choice. I plan on using the bobber on shorter back roads and running errands. Let us know when you get it and post a bunch of picts. The springer fork is pretty cool and no doubt we are all curious about the ride and handling of the springer fork. Just remember it isnt going to be like getting the harley delivered you have to get rid of all the small gemlins. But this bike is so easy to work on. The carb is actually very good on previous models, just needs tweaking and dialing in at first. Not sure what your carb will be like but curious. Souix falls is a neat area but like here in MPLS, the winters can be long and tough. Again Welcome! :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Thanks Goodbar, I am actually purchasing it from a guy who sales scooters here, he gets them from the scooter depot in so. ca. i convinced him to order mime and another one I told him he should not have a problem selling it. So he will put it together and tweek it. but yes i want to learn how to repair stuff. i am a female and not that it matters but i do not have knowledge of bikes, but one of the things that attracted to me to the bobber wa s it being stripped! I wii post on here if i have questons which i am sure i will. Do you have pics of your bubba 250!
I managed to put something together temporarily. The first set of wires the shielding started to melt because it was too small of a gauge. The second did well. Not sure if I'll be able to put in a charger as the shed has no power and the run is too far from the house. I may just remove it each time i leave out of town. Also Seen a bunch of corrosion on the bottom of the batter box due to the acid leaking. here's a video of the bike running. Does the hiccuping happen to you guys. It's partly why i cant keep it running. http://youtu.be/eheOaHZgfiA
Welcome terrilb05
:lol8::eekers::lol8:
Hello terrible & welcome to the thread. There was another female here a while back named rollinrock. I'm sure you will get a lot of good info here on your df.
Hey guys, I am pretty new here. I had made some posts well over a year back with some interest in buying the df250 bobber. I finally purchased the 2012 sportster style bike from scooterdepot (the only dealer that carries this version) here is a link http://www.scooterdepot.us/250cc-spo...kes-p-731.html apparently they say there were only 90 made of this type.. but who knows
It appears to be the same as the older version with with a harley style tank and seat, drag bars, and a flat black paint job. It was about $2900 with shipping (there was an extra 75 dollar fee to cross it into RI.. sounded like BS to me)
Im already to order a rear sprocket before I even get the bike, as I will be driving it daily to work about 25 minutes on the highway each way. Can you link me the any common web vendors that carry the correct sprockets? I'm only about 140-145 pounds so I was thinking about going with a 37 or a 38. I want to be able to cruise around 70 mph on flats without running in top rpms. Maybe a 35 would be best. Im guessing it tops out around 50-55 with stock gearing. Any other common mods besides carb jets or adjustments I need to prepare for to make this road worthy? I am pretty much maxed out for spending at the moment, and the wife isnt thrilled (wait till she finds out it only seats one lol..) I am looking to keep the bike mostly stock for resale value. Anyone have experiences with this new model yet? Any help I can get ahead of time would really help me out. In the mean time, i'll be reading up from page one to the end.. but it is going to take me a few days.
Thanks in advance,
Hi Bob and welcome back. I bought my sprocket before buying the bike too but its been so cold here since the bike arrived I haven't tried it yet to see if it fits. I weigh 240 so I went with 38 tooth. I got it on amazon but don't remember what I paid right off hand. You will prob need the 35 given your weight. Anyway congratulations on the new dong fang bike.
terrilb05 Just see my album or others if they have one/ click my icon and profiles come up with my albums.Quote:
Originally Posted by terrilb05
Its great he will do the PDI for you! Have him put a real fuel filter on your bike when it comes in as the one that comes with the bike is fake at least mine was it was just hollow.
NevBob has your bike just without the bars and fork and it looks like another just joined with the same bike also. You have a lot of reading to do in older posts if you haven't already!
Hello NEW Bob, Big welcome to the forum! If your a true 140 a 35 tooth or maybe even a 33 may work even better...hmmm not sure you may lose too much torque though...?
Best source for a steel sprocket I found was:
http://www.jtsprockets.com/61.0.html
and plug in the JT sprocket tooth count at the end of the stock number.
For example of a 35 tooth stock number that fits is jtr279.35 they take paypal also. Mine came in just a few days.
NEVADA BOB has the exact bike.
Welcome New Bob.
CRELOW Thats the same exact backfire I had. Caused by a bad air fuel mix and then an explosion of un burned gas that stops the crank/ it isn't too healthy for the engine when it explodes during exhaust cycle and stops the bike. Does it go away after its warmed up good? is your plug black and fouled/ bad spark could cause this. Unburned gas is exploding... from too lean ( too much air) or too rich ( too much fuel) either condition can cause backfiring thru carb. many web sites to help tune this pumper carb. But some trial and error is seldom avoided. Once you get it right it will run as smooth as silkQuote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Warm the bike
Air fuel Mix screw adjust use a 1 inch long screw driver flat blade end from an interchangeable screw driver. start with the air fuel mixture screw on the side of the carb facing the engine.
Idle screw tweak( your idle sounded way high unless you were working the throttle
New gaped NGK plug
Lastly
Make sure idle jet isnt clogged
Valves could be out of adjustment
If you cant get it tuned, get help!
The link you posted does not work :(
Yea im 140-145.. 145 is my max weight when I pump up with my lifting in the summer time heh. That link doesnt work btwQuote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
Try this one they have a new web site
http://www.jtsprockets.com/
Its for a
1974-1976 Honda CB200
Just type in that stock number in yahoo or google and lots of distributers pop up/
even old Bike barn has them as does amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-J.../dp/B001AVVW0K
No shortage of sources
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
My next stop was the plug. And re tuning the carb. As suggested I'm trying to wait to do the valves. As this will take more time. I'm headed back to DC this weekend. So it may have to be put on hold till I return. That dam air mixture screw is the hardest thing to do because of its location and fat fingers.
Smooth like silk is how I want it. 44 miles on it wanna have it fixed before 100mile oil change. I have the magnet plug
Anyone else with corrosion on their battery box?
I second that. Best $15 I ever spent. I have noticed that when its cold the battery dies out quick. Have to charge it. Now on a warm day it starts right up. Take note of the terminal wires, they are thin and weak. I already had one break off with rust by barely touching it (red possitive cable). Ironically the negative cable has zero rust on it and is fine. Put my own head on the positive cable and it seems OK now. Note that this is my first bike so I am a total newbie in all things motorcycle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
On a side note I finally rode my bike today. My horn went dead so I got a french replacement horn on ebay and it seems to work fine. Also noticed today that my clear coat is flaking off. No biggie. Once it's gone Ill just wax the crap out of the paint thats left underneath.
Only thing that worries me right now is the rust on the spokes. Net pretty and Im not sure how to tacle that yet. Open to suggestions. The bike sits outside as Im out of room in my garage. Arg! Even the exhaust pipe is starting to rust.
Now that I have the bike paid off Im almost ready to start modding a bit as funds permit. Im wondering which mods are the most important as far as bang for the buck. What mod is recommended above all others if you could only afford one mod?
So far only thing I have added are the NKG plug, new mirrors. replacement horn, replacement shift linkage rod and replaced a blown rubber air injection hose with a stronger US made one.
i just put my battery in a couple weeks ago when my bro was over here and he commented on how i should drill a hole and run a hose through the bottom of the box before i dont have a bottom anymore. Actually my box has a hole but its directly under the battery. I will drill another so that i can let the battery drain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
GONZO X I would think any bike left out in the rain and elements would start to rust a bit. Is it covered at all? Attachment 10406
To neutralize it get a bottle of Naval Jelly. It turns the rust invisible fast. Make sure you can wash it off with soap and water and use fine steel wool to get them spokes shiny again, then wax em.
Sun and weather take a toll on Motorcycles fairly fast. You just need to do extra detailing. The clear coat problems sound odd. Post a picture if you can. These things would be pretty easy to paint, even with a rattle can and some clear coat once the prep sanding and primer were applied.
Here is a link to a video of rims that are fully painted. CCW heist.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjKxW-YKhDo&sns=em
Parts page for 2010 models:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm...rtb_parts.html
I use Google Chrome, which translates the chinese to english.
What say fellow bobber riders..
News on the home front.
Some of you may have been around long enough to remember my issue with the studs that mount the sprocket to the rim breaking off on me and leaving me stranded for a while.I had to actually make new ones out of grade 8 bolts and have them weldeded with a backing washer to replicate the old studs.Well guess what..I broke three of the four of them almost a year later.Yes thats right, made it home this time on just one stud.Was amazed at first..then confused as to why this happens.My rear wheel is not out of alignment(meaning straight with the front wheel), all parts are factory(except for the sprocket). So I am puzzled as to why this has happened a second time. I am in process of making another set of studs, and I also ordered another sprocket from old bike barn, as the sprocket holes were slightly elongated from the broken studs.I had not realized they were broken, so since I had only been riding a few days on and off since last week(due to the weather),my issue may have occured within those days.So I have been riding unknowingly with this issue.Suddenly I was hearing a strange rub of the chain from side to side on the lower plastic part of the rear fender..and upon inspection when i got home is when I noticed the missing nuts of three of the studs..seeing they had just sheared right off.
If anyone can enlighten me as to why this would happen please feel free to chime in.
I was just glad I was able to make it home without being stuck out and about.
I am thinking that this set up with this wheel is a bit of an issue,I may be in the market for a replacement rear wheel with a different type of assembly with the sprocket. If you can direct me to someplaces with some rear wheels with a more permanent sprocket system..I would like to take a look at them.
I am starting to wonder if perhaps these road hazards( and there are alot of them around Houston) are causing my problem.The bike( and myself) take a bit of a beating just riding a normal day.I do not think we have any flat smooth roads around here..at leats I have yet to find them in my day today travels.
So I recommend that in your pre-ride inspectiosn on a daily basis..you make sure to gander at your sprocket studs, and all around the linkage to make sure they are fine.
Other than that..bike is still awesome..looking at over 8500 plus miles now, and still cruising on.
Goodbar,
Which is the NGK plug I should be replacing with? Ill be headed to the auto parts store some time later today.
:scooter:
Crelow, Good bar was good enough to give me this info a few pages back. D8EA and is NGK Stock number 2120
Thanks bob,
I thought he did but i keep searching and it couldn't find it. sometimes it's difficult looking and replying from the Iphone.
Welcome to the group Terrible and another Bob. I don't think there is much difference in the new model and the old as far as the drive train is concerned and this is where all the knowledge here will help a lot. The rest is just flash. The carb on mine is made in Japan, but from what I can tell it is exactly the same as what everyone else here has. The electric system is a bit different and you shouldn't have the head light issue of the 2010 as ours is a two position switch and seems function as it should.
allycat, thanks for the link.
Goodbar, I watched the splendid movie Crelow posted and was amazed to discover that this has happened to my engine a few times. I thought it was just stalling out. I will be at warmed up idle, give it some throttle, quit. Makes that zzzzz sound too, almost like the starter buzz. There is no pop or white vapor as he described in other posts so I thought I was good. Fires right back up and runs fine. I'll put the new plug in and tweak the idle control and see if that doesn't help. I checked the old plug it was at .025. I would think that with how the plug looks it would be running rich.
Attachment 10419
What are you setting your valves at?
That is bad ass.Surprisingly,I even like the green.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow