That's a rich plug.Carbon fouled from over fueling.The pic is a clean burn from my bike(GS5).I have strong pull from idle to redline in all gears.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...rkplugleft.jpg
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That's a rich plug.Carbon fouled from over fueling.The pic is a clean burn from my bike(GS5).I have strong pull from idle to redline in all gears.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...rkplugleft.jpg
:scooter:
I hate when photos do this. I can't see anything.
Attachment 10420
Seem like I can't get that Damm hiccup to go away. But at least it's gotten better. At one point I thought it was completely gone. Took it for a test ride after a few minutes of riding it came back. Here is a photo of the spark plug.
Attachment 10426
Attachment 10426
http://youtu.be/qdZNcERKbOw
I'm sorry for those of you who can't ride yet. ;-(
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that the epoxy didn't hold up vary long I guess during the test ride it decided to open back up.
Put in the new plug and tweaked the idle. It fired up in full choke and would run for a few seconds then quit. Did that six or seven times and realized I hadn't opened the fuel valve. Opened it up and it fired and idled by itself worked the choke off slowly and it idled fine all the way through. Took it for an hour drive. (Something I better quit doing before I get a ticket) Got it home and took out the plug and it was clean, just starting to tan the ceramic a bit. Will see how it works next time. I noticed a black witness mark on the idle mix screw so someone has been working it. No stalls, and I also noted that it makes the same zzzzz every time I kill the engine, I'll call it the death rattle, so I imagine that that's normal and I'm not having the dreaded carb back fire. While I was at it I decided to install the non Goodbar approved gas filter. I like it. Every machine I've worked on with glass site glasses eventually ends up leaking. I'll check it periodically. It looks great. I also put on the new carb filter and breather. I used some of the existing hose it sits nicely on the starter cable and some other cable. I'll take some pictures later when I get the red carb filter.
Thanks for the comment and the picture Ben2go.
Yeah I heard it on your movie. Mine would stall out like that when I gave it gas the first few times I rode it. I could also feel it trying to pull just barley when I was at a full stop with the clutch in. I adjusted the clutch which is easy enough, just a couple of nuts right next to the clutch lever on the transmission itself. After that it has happened a couple more times, but I'm pretty sure it's just me letting the clutch out too fast. All I know is when it happened I just looked down at the motor and say what? Hope you figure it out soon.
Chruk Bashre, I love NV too. At first I thought I'd hate it as I'm fro WA but it grows on you. Getting biger and faster here all the time in Elko because of the gold mines. Might have to move if it gets to crazy. I'll post pics of all my mods.
Bummer on the tank because I like the shape of the original. I hope mine wont pop but it prob will.:gaah:
They have a tank on ebay thats unfinished that looks like the new style fanger tank...made in china for sure think it was 45 big ones
That carb back fire will go away I promise if you get the right combo of adjustments
on that carb. Those sneezy backfires sure kill the engine fast as its trying to spin the crank backwards.... ouch
sounds like your getting it running decent to me/ It didnt kill in the video nor did I here the kill and ZZZZZZ? The ZZZZZ sound after engine dies is the starter gears spinning backwards LOL
Plug certainly dosent look good/ maynot be completly fouled but close from unburned fuel.
Bowtie: Long time no hear! Glad your checking in. I think the stud issue is a few fold. The Hardtail design is inherently hard on the final drive/sprocket and chain because of jarring and the second is
the alignment is difficult on these bobbers at best. Even a tad off and there are some strong forces at work on the sprocket and studs. The studs are taking the brunt of all the shock in: torque- bumps- alignment - better the studs than the spokes or the rim I guess, it’s the way these things were engineered as the original studs just float in the hub and yours are welded to the hub, Correct?
You have also mentioned the roads can be pretty rough where you ride. At any rate you have logged a ton of miles more than anyone I know of one these bikes… so congrats on that for sure. What you up to on the Odometer these days?
Thanks for the info Goodbar. Thats kind of what I was thinking as well. Ill go to wallyworld to see if they have naval jelly.
Cant take a picture of the clearcoat flaking because its all gone now it appears. It literally came off in chunks the size of 3 to 4 inches in width. I have never been a fan of clear coat. To me straight paint is easier to repair and care for.
I do have a cover for my bike but I noticed that it tended to trap moisture under it and made it even worse. I may just have to sell my mancave couch to make room for my bike in my one car garage / man-cave.
On a side note my air filter mesh is also rusty. They sell the same damn filter on ebay and claim it's stainless steel. Yeah right! So I ordered a different replacement filter on ebay. Its the one most of you have purchased and was pictured earlier in this thread. If it rusts like the stock one does then I will switch to an all foam one instead. The one I ordered was cheap enough for this pay day and hopefully better quality than the one that came with it. My thinking is though that the foam ones would be better than the paper element wire mesh ones. Any thoughts on that?
Like Ben2go the plug was set at .025. Here is a tank I like from lowbro
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p411/b...ycle-gas-tank/
Hey thanks for the hello man.
I was thinkin the same..just wanted to see if anyone else was thinking that as well. My studs are NOT welded to the hub..they float..I just have to make them...I use a grade 8 2inch long 3/16 bolt, weld washers where needed to the shoulder of the bolt where the threads end, and cut each side to match the length of the original studs.They slide into the hub, and I bolt the sprocket on using lock nuts (with the nylon ends). So I guess since we seem to agree that this is probably something that may continue, I guess I am gonna have to live with it.Been almost a year since it first happened. I am gonna make sure I check these every time before i ride, and also get a few sets made to have around.Probably add them to my tool kit.
Looking at 8673 miles at this time, been a great few days to ride, but since she is sidelined right now, missing out on the great weather.Hopefully by tonight I can get her put back together.
:riding:
:scooter:
Chruk has a another point that a small sprocket may put more strain on studs ( kind of a mind screw to think about it) So based on everything Im hearing in the latest posts:
A Your clear coat might all fall off if parked outside in the weather. Can be gathered up and used as sandwich wrap.LOL
B Get a set of extra sprocket studs before you need them! Beause,... as soon as your bike breaks the weather will get super nice. Murphys Law
C Rethink getting too small of a sprocket. :confused1:
D Store your bike in a climate and humidity controled darkroom immediatly to prevent all of the above...:hellfire:
:eek2:
:lol8:
Its Skulworkz wife/ she does nice work. I am going to have them do a new cover for me soon too.:thumbsup:
The way I plugged it was I grabbed a dell computer. Then grabbed a pair
Of metal sheers placed the tube on the metal to create a template. Sharpie then cut and and drill. Ground down any unsafe edges. Put the plate with the old tube upside down so it won't collect water. And high temp RTV. I think that's what is call and loctite.
For an old guy(yeah i know 48 is not old,but feels like it sometimes) I am holding up fine with the ride.Sometimes I get that weedeater feeling in my hands on longer rides, but overall...just great.
I have a 35 tooth on the rear. I try to shift smooth on it coming off the lights, but sometimes I jerk her. Guess its just part of the ride to go through stuff like this.
Thanks guys for hanging in there with me. I think I finally got it.
From what I remember after taking the carb apart. Found nothing wrong there.
Turned the air mixture screw 2half turns. After it warmed up I turned it a little more.
Then the idle screw. Wiggled the wires coming from the motor and that was it.
I think my problem was I kept setting the idle way too low causing that hiccup. Ill take a video tomorrow morning if I have time to show the puff of gas if it happens. But for now I think Kareem ing the tank will be my cheaper option to keeping the bike before investing so much.
Hello guys thanks for the info. The more I look at the pictures.. the more i wish I bought the older triumph style DF instead of the newer Harley looking one. Oh well.
I already ordered a 35 rear sprocket.
Looks like all i need to do now when I get the bike:
-Drill a few holes in the battery vox
-Change the oil with a nice synthetic
-Replace the spark plug with an NGK (what type and what gap? Im sure its already been posted a million times but ive have not read too far in yet)
- Tune the carb
Anything else I need to know?