Printable View
Hi Skullwortz, I have been working on bobbing out my honda rebel, yes I know guy's this is the DF-250 sight. I used the plasti-dip on my biike and it works great for $6 a can! As soon as I get it done I will post pics. Just to let you guy's know the dealer that ordered mine I told him that I would have to pass on it just because I thought it best. I had to go look at it and take it for a spin. It looks cool! But I am happy to have got the Honda Rebel.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
Cant wait to see how it turned out!! As far as getting a Rebel, as long as your on two wheels and loving it!Quote:
Originally Posted by terrilb05
yes i use standard car oil , Ive never even changed it , Ive drained and strained it , but still using same oil as I put in it that 1st day some 5k mikes ago
the BULBS on this bike are terrible , everything that runs continuosly , tail running light / headlights , break every time you hit a good bump
I put in a car sealed beam headlamp , and a 4" strip of LED's from autoparts store into rear brake for running lights , I still use standard bulb for normal brake light
dont fool yourself thinking changing bulbs in tail lamp will help its a hard tail , I went thru about 50 bulbs , all brakelight still working but busted running light be4 I wised up
Ive often concidered getting a rebel , pulling the motor and putting it in my bike and putting my motor into the rebel then selling the rebel for what I bought it for :p
Their are china clones for Yamaha and Honda Rebels. Honda CA250 253FMM 250/300 Twin 4T
no I meant to have a fully servicable , by any motorcycle mechanic honda rebel motor (or any other sm honda motor) , as its a honda clone any sm honda should be a direct bolt in
as Ive had them tell me they dont wanna touch the china clone motor
besides the fact the american motors squeeze out a few more HP which = speed for better freeway use
Ive been doing it all myself , but hands not working like they used to and backs acting up , knee's going ect
but all said n done , Im still happy with it , even though its prob only producing 8-9HPower and untill it gives me a problem ill ride
All of you guys that are running a non-see through filter on your crankcase breather. This is what I discovered inside my "clear" filter yesterday as I was doing service to my bike. So, if you cant see inside or take the filter apart then you can and could have a serious problem arising. If you dont have it terminated and its running into your electronics box then this is the crap thats blowing in on your wiring.Attachment 10930Attachment 10931Attachment 10932
What in the hell is it? To top it all its white!Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
And, by the way it's skullworkz not skullwortz. Skullwortz would be a very bad thing if there were such a thing, and it would probably make a GREAT name for a metal band! Can't wait to see the pics of this plastic coated bike!!! What color is it?! And, if you don't like it you can peel it off! And, also, is the pic in your profile the look your going for on your build? Edit >OK, sorry not trying to sound like a jerk>just pointing it outQuote:
Originally Posted by terrilb05
What your looking at is oil from the crankcase breathing and natural condensation in the tubing and filters from covered outside storage. I have a very large red barn type wood shed that is at the end of my driveway and thats where I store my bike. So, as the bike warms up and cools down it makes steam that comes out of your crankcase breather. Since it is coming out of your engine that "steam" will have oil attached to it and when it cools it makes the very nasty looking substance pictured above. I cant imagine this stuff being blown into my carb on the new models!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
pictures as requested. It's not 100% perfect.. but remember this was done with a rattle can and not my HVLP. I used 2 cans of rustoleum Satin black between the tank and fenders. I could have used less than half of one can.. but I wanted it layed on thick. After the paint was dry.. i used 2000 grit sand paper with spray wax as the lube. Then I used some rubbing compound, followed by a quick finish of spray wax again.
It's more of a matte/satin than a flat which I like. It's a a bit deeper than the stock color and much more resilient. A little spotty in a few places but I cleaned it up nice. Also this paint is an exact match for the stock frame color if you need to do touch ups.
btw idk about yours.. but the bottom of my tank was nasty RUST orange primer. I didnt bother painting this area, as I will re do the paint correctly with my HVLP gun at some point, but it looks fine for now
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscc75cb18.jpg
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf9718c60.jpg
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8efd7453.jpg
Nice work bobthebobber. I was thinking about gloss black but i think i like yours better.:clap:
Lucas 10w-40 semi synthetic high performance motorcycle oil. No problems with it but I have yet to do my first oil change. Only have 450m on it right now. Waiting to hit 600 per the owners manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
OMG I still have the photo I took. I have a habbit of saving photos. Good or bad sometimes its good to keep records.Quote:
Originally Posted by freezerboy
Glad you got it fixed. I would still order a third party replacement though. That way you have a spare. I keep the new one in my tool bag.
I also did the extra nut thing but the reverse threaded one is impossible to find locally.
To Crelow and others: I suggest you order a third party rod now as I guarantee the stock rod WILL break. It's just a matter of time. Very little money for having piece of mind in your toolbag. Mine was only about $25 or so per DanDaMan's link. That's where I got mine.
6 months or 600 miles. I'm glad I changed mine as it was really sludgey on the magnetic oil plug. Also, it had the silver sheen to it. It didn't have anything noticeable in the filter upon inspection. I have also noticed that the rod that you guys have that are breaking is a different color than mine. Yours seem to be a goldish color and mine is more of a silver color. I wonder if they are from different stock? I'll snap a pic of it when I get a minute.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
[QUOTE=DanDaMan;55661]yes i use standard car oil , Ive never even changed it , Ive drained and strained it , but still using same oil as I put in it that 1st day some 5k mikes ago
the BULBS on this bike are terrible , everything that runs continuosly , tail running light / headlights , break every time you hit a good bump
I put in a car sealed beam headlamp , and a 4" strip of LED's from autoparts store into rear brake for running lights , I still use standard bulb for normal brake light
dont fool yourself thinking changing bulbs in tail lamp will help its a hard tail , I went thru about 50 bulbs , all brakelight still working but busted running light be4 I wised up
Tip on Tail lite: I found a 1157 tail lite bulb at Autozone that is a LED/ Just plugged right in to
the socket no mods needed and it should last forever as LEDs are not affected by vibration. Cost was about 7 bucks/ I then added a small plastic mirror in the Tail lite housing at a 45 degree angle to throw off more lite as the LEDs are directional and the bulb is sideways in the housing. This makes the light shoot out the back where it is needed.
I am doing a flat black on mine. I have the fenders done, headlight acces panels going to powerwash the frame before I do that. it has a bit of a shine to it not glossy whick I love. I can not believe this plasti-coat stuff it is great. I ordered some drag bars, new smaller mirrors, bullet back turn light, a Model A brake light and I ordered a tan solo seat. I want to post before and after pics after it is done which will be soon. I wanted to go with baby apes but the cost of longer wiring for all the cables did not want to do that yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
:confused1:
Hello All,
Just want to throw out a quick question. Anyone know of an inexpensive tachometer (dial-gauge style, not LCD) for single-cylinder engines with DIS? The tach that Cleveland Cyclewerks has on their "Misfit" would be ideal but I doubt they sell them piecemeal. I've heard that you can convert a Sunpro gauge to work but I can't find much info on how.
be careful with the plastidip. The reason i didnt use it.. if you get a little scratch and wind gets under it, it will all just peel off like latex. Looks so nice though
Re changing the rear sprocket has everyone also shortened the chain or just adjusted the rear wheel? Also has anyone else installed a chain tensioner? I am having a few issues with my setup
Keep in mind that you can also just hit it again with the plasti-dip and feather it out and you would never know it was there. Also, have you ever messed with this stuff? It is super tough! I use it on my bicycle stand as the protective coating on the clamp as to not scratch customers bikes AND to not damage the carbon fiber seatposts that I see on a daily basis. I plasti-dipped my clamp on the Christmas holiday, so I was useing it the day after Christmas, and it is holding up as well as or better than the factory made bumpers. Not only that, but if I get tired of the color I can peel it off and repaint! This ALSO protects against rust if it is done properly! I have a rider at my shop that uses plasti-dip as a chain guard on a freeride bike and has only ever made one application, and there is a moving bicycle chain beating on it 8 hours a day in full on aggressive riding. These are only some things that I have seen in my personal day to day life and figured this would be a cheap, easy and inexpensive way to protect and customize your bike. Please keep in mind this is my personal opinion and I'm no professional when it comes to paint, I just wrench on 'em.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
Hey Mix, I did remove some links. If I'm correct I removed (4) and I went to the 35t. If you don't have a chain tool you will need to buy one here~Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixmaster
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html
When you push the pin through dont push it ALL the way through, you wanna leave the pin stuck inside the outside link like this in case you want to re-install, or? By doing this and having the chain tool in your pouch you can have a backup in case your chain breaks. Attachment 10948
And, as far as a tensioner you may wanna talk to some of the other senior members about that. I have seen some nice tensioners on this site and you will have to do the research. But, if I'm correct Ghost has a really nice set up.
i guess it depends on what you call inexpensive. this is affordable to me and im considering it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody87
http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-...cle+tachometer
My new battery arrived today and the fit is exact to the T. It is a completely sealed deal, so no worry about corrosion on the box. No charge needed. Just pop in and ride:riding:
There's a fix for itQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
http://youtu.be/4T0jEvxxTzE
tank result of the day.Attachment 10951Attachment 10952Attachment 10953
Very Nice........What brand of paint is that?
rustoleum laquer
Hello fellow df250rtb owners! Thought I'd introduce my bike after owning and riding for about 4 months now. Bought from "sparky" who was local and had done a few things to her before I purchased (check the first 200 pages). Since I've had her I've made some subtle, tasteful changes and overall I'm very satisfied with the bike. Changed the 36 tooth rear sprocket to a 33, aftermarket handlebar and mirrors (going for the cafe racer/bobber-look) Attachment 10960Attachment 10961Attachment 10962The bike is about 6% Honda at the moment (Honda shadow shift rod, honda shadow clutch cable) some amazon and a bit of ebay. a little over 2000 miles and am confident I'll see 20,000 in the next year or so as I live in Jacksonville, Fl. Hopefully these photos post right....
:riding: