Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

got my bike from killer mororsports as well , but for the price of the bike I wasnt expecting any "real" support other than registering it and getting me the motorcycle , plates and tags sent to my house , I've I expected to and have done all my own repairs , mods and replacement parts using only this thread

head/tail lights = this was and ongoing issue untill I put an automotive store and put a car sealed beam headlamp and led's in tail , going thru 14 or so headlight bulds this was related to bad voltage regulator surging high enough to pop em but they also broke on a pothole or rock/stick in the road , and bumps made me go thru about 10 tail bulbs till went LED

voltage regulator and the blinker relay the bad voltage regulator blew , horn , broken fork reflector bracket rewelded it , 2 front sprockets and 3 rear sprockets to get a satisfactory gear ratio for my weight = 2.0588 and extending the forward controls forward another 10" and added highway pegs , welded a sissy bar on to lean against , and spun my air cleaner 180 degree's facing into the wind




any u guys with leaky tanks ever tried repeatedly KREEMing it ? http://www.amazon.com/Kreem-Products.../dp/B001J0DHZK its a tank liner pour it in swish it around and it builds a rubber bladder along the inside of your tank http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-use-t...1059206/g.html

would save alot trouble and might be cheaper than switching tanks , perhaps paying someone else to kreem it for ya


if I could figure out how to upload a pick I would , have a few in my email but do not know how to move em from there to here

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Originally Posted by freezerboy

hey chruk, it looks like you didn't paint your back fender...

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i was happy with the back fender with the stripe. matching the black was the real project

Anyone ever get a chance to look at the top of their forks and see if they are even or is one higher than the other?

Geez yet another problem: I think I fried my battery today.

Bike would not start so I put a charger on it but did not yet plug in the ac chord. Then I smell what smells like rotten eggs. I must have fried it. Battery was completely dead today. And mind you the bike was a bit wet from rain.

I did plug the AC chord into the charger and it starts to charge and after 1 min the trouble light comes ON on the charger. So either my battery is fried or I now have a short somewhere.

Will try to charge it again when it is dry and cross my fingers but Im guessing a new battery will be $75-$100. This bites. Will search the forum to see what others have purchased.

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Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

Have you looked at this site? YT5L-BS Battery | Scorpion 12 Volt Motorcycle Batteries

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I know this is an old post but if you are still here mailman, can you tell me if this will fit my DF250 withough modding the battery box? I really dont have the tools to mod the box and that would be an added expense for me.

I just want to buy a battery that will fit with no mods for under $100 if possible.

I didnt "really"need to mod the battery box , and was in stock in an auto parts store (advanced auto ? about $70) , but without modding it the terminals are MM's away from the direct short into the batterybox , without mentioning all but impossible to clip on a charger without shorting it to the battery box , i just used a metal blade on a drill and just cut a large square where the terminals were , opening the terminals to be accessed

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Originally Posted by Babyswiss

Anyone ever get a chance to look at the top of their forks and see if they are even or is one higher than the other?

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mine look even

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Originally Posted by barnone

I got the tiny and very light weight new battery installed and she fired right up. http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...09A2-BS12.html
Amazing technology with those lithium batteries.

Took her out for a "high" speed run. At 75 MPH indicated (probably about 68 MPH real) she is turning (with my 38 tooth rear sprocket) about 7600 RPM in fifth.
Vibration is getting very uncomfortable at that RPM.

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i found this on page 120.

if johnny left texas on a df250rtb at 65mph...:scooter:

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

I know this is an old post but if you are still here mailman, can you tell me if this will fit my DF250 withough modding the battery box? I really dont have the tools to mod the box and that would be an added expense for me.

I just want to buy a battery that will fit with no mods for under $100 if possible.

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You are going to have to measure the height of your battery box (that seems to be the limiting factor on the DFs. I went with the $$$ lithium iron battery in 14ah flavor. It comes with a lot of foam sheets to pad the battery box, so that vibration/poles shorting against sides or top will never be a factor. I now have it in My Yamaha and a 18ah in My Triumph.

Whatever you go with, you should consider a permanent charger pig tail. New "battery tenders" come with them.

Thanks for responding chruk! I will have to keep an eye on mine and see if they move after going over some rough road.

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

Will search the forum to see what others have purchased.

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This is the new battery that i just ordered for $64.40 on amazon. It's about $7 higher on ebay.
http://www.motobattasia.com/batteries.php?pid=39

i posted pics of it on pg 330....it fits perfect to the T and it has lot more cold crankin amps then the stock batt.
also its completely sealed and ready to go. No leakage in your box possible.

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

if johnny left texas on a df250rtb at 65mph and went to ohio
he not only did not go 65mph, his odo did not count the proper amount of miles. with 65 actually being 59mph+/-, how many miles did the odometer really read?

my point is 1000 miles covered on the dfrtb is not 1000 on the odo. could be 125000, could be 300. has anyone done this calculation yet? there is no way that i have covered the amount of miles shown on mine because i almost never leave my hood. mostly 6-10 mile round trips. my ODO SHOWS 1047 miles. aint no way. just a fun thought for you mathematical einsteins out there.

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942.3 miles , about 10% off

OK guys I bought a battery that fit (sorta). Perfect fit except for the vent exhaust sticking out the side.

Went to advanced auto parts and got it and before anyone asks, NO I do not work for them.
It was the Autocraft 17N7-4A. I will try to upload a picture. It fit perfect except for the side vent which caused it to stick out too much. Solution: I borrowed a dremel and cut out an extension to the battery box so the exhaust vent could stick through. Again, will try to upload photo. It cost me $40. I did have a bike biz try to sell me a much smaller lithium ion battery and he almost had me but I just cant justify spending $130 for a battery right now.

Let me try to upload two photos:

Attachment 11461Attachment 11462

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Originally Posted by Babyswiss

Thanks for responding chruk! I will have to keep an eye on mine and see if they move after going over some rough road.

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how about a picture of that.?

Notice how the top of the fork/shock is much higher on the righthand side. Anyone know how to adjust these and should they be flush like the left side?Attachment 11474

:popcorn:

Problem solved! I was able to loosen the two screws on the brackets the forks pass through and then use a two jaw puller on the top bracket and the top of the fork and slowly compress the fork until it was flush again. Tightened the screws and everything seems fine.

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Originally Posted by Babyswiss

Problem solved! I was able to loosen the two screws on the brackets the forks pass through and then use a two jaw puller on the top bracket and the top of the fork and slowly compress the fork until it was flush again. Tightened the screws and everything seems fine.

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cool,,

Good to hear Chruk.

Now i feel the need to inject a noob question.

Got a leak on my DF and it appears to be oil. The strange part is that it is coming from a rubber hose out of the bottom of my carb. my question is what the he** is this and what is its purpose? The hose appears to be a drain hose of some kind and it is flared on the end.

Any ideas?

Attachment 11482

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

Good to hear Chruk.

Now i feel the need to inject a noob question.

Got a leak on my DF and it appears to be oil. The strange part is that it is coming from a rubber hose out of the bottom of my carb. my question is what the he** is this and what is its purpose? The hose appears to be a drain hose of some kind and it is flared on the end.

Any ideas?

Attachment 11482

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gas , bottom of u carb is a fuel drain screw , when loose it drains gas out the carb via that hose

its purpose is to drain fuel from the carb (when gas tanks also turned off) so when performing maintenance your not sloshing around a full carberator

tighten the screw

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

the tire and fender line up, right? this shows that the tire would kinda lean to the left. or the right side of the fender would be too high. how does that stuff look? does it seem true? if it is, i say let it be. but have a cycle expert take a peek. any shop with would stop what they are doing to take a look at that. good luck and let me know what they say.

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Maybe the Allen bolts came loose on the triple tree.

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

gas , bottom of u carb is a fuel drain screw , when loose it drains gas out the carb via that hose

its purpose is to drain fuel from the carb (when gas tanks also turned off) so when performing maintenance your not sloshing around a full carberator

tighten the screw

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Thanks Dan,

Will look at it tomorrow. Got home at 1am and Im too damn tired to mess with it now. Good to hear it's a simple fix though.

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

Thanks Dan,

Will look at it tomorrow. Got home at 1am and Im too damn tired to mess with it now. Good to hear it's a simple fix though.

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dont be so glad , leaving it open for to long can "varnish" the inside u carb , but a small treatment of "stabile" can save the day

sorry i forgot to take a picture of when i was done with the 'wires for the headlight under the tank" repair. after the repair the headlight gets brighter when motor is revved. the brake lever does not interfere with the brightness of the light. here is a picture with directions of what i did. the dark green is a ground. if i take the tank off,(never)again, i will get a good pic of it.

Attachment 11497

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

sorry i forgot to take a picture of when i was done with the 'wires for the headlight under the tank" repair. after the repair the headlight gets brighter when motor is revved. the brake lever does not interfere with the brightness of the light. here is a picture with directions of what i did. the dark green is a ground. if i take the tank off,(never)again, i will get a good pic of it.

Attachment 11497

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Can you post a few more pictures i can barely see what's going on. If you have a point and shoot camera. Push the button that has a flower on it. This allows the Macro feature to be enabled allowing for closer shots.

this is the best i can do. i made a giant close up. let me know if you can see it gooderer.

Attachment 11498

here i made another one for ya. let me know how it ???

Attachment 11499

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

here i made another one for ya. let me know how it ???

Attachment 11499

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So green to green and blue with stripe to blue with stripe?

On my bike I have 3 wires that are blue with white stripe. Attachment 11501