so any way everybody,. the grip covers i like are $6. the rest is shipping.
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so any way everybody,. the grip covers i like are $6. the rest is shipping.
i dont get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
so is this rant about not being cheap about hand grips or about scooter depot sending wrong parts
Hey guys, I posted a while back. Got my bike and I love it... but can't seem to get the dang thing running right.
Here are the symptoms:
It will bog down then die when going 52 mph (fully open and as fast as I can go) never really went further than 1 mile at full speed.
Sometimes it will stall when I am down shifting.
Occasionally hard to start when cold.
Whenever it dies on me I have to wait about 5-10 mins before it will fire up again... then it will go about a half mile before dying again. (I always end up pushing it back to my house.
Carb has this sucking noise whenever I give it gas
Here is what I have done:
Oil change (10w40)
Valve adjustment (.002 intake .004 exhaust)
Braided silicone hose on secondary air injection (Factory one burst)
Continually have tried adjusting the carb (fuel/air screw)
Took carb apart and inspected everything (105 main jet, idle jet did not have a number on it?)
Put 1 then 2 then 3 washers under the needle (this helped with cold start but still died on me!)
I even got pissed off and bought a brand new pz30 carb.... same thing!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Attachment 11666
Hey, my handles Revjack and I ride a 2012 dong fang with the springer front end, and it handles just fine even on rough road and railroad crossings, just slow down and steer clear of deep potholes and dont jump curbs, the issue with preformance may be because someone at the factory may have droped a 13mm lock nut in your intake and its restricting the flow of air fuel mixtue and interfereing with your intake valve. Thats what happened too me, I removed this unwanted guest ,and found factory valve lash was totally tight, no lash at all thing wouldnt do 35mph with out bogging out,reset lash at .004 intake and .006 exhaust on hot motor and it runs much better. I also removed that smog crap and blocked off the port where it attaches at the head immediate improvement. spray some carb cleaner around rubber intake and carb base while running if motor revs up you have a leak at intake too carb or head. intakes rubber look for cracks in it seal with silicone and check bolts for tightness. good luck.
Hope it's just me and I'll get used to the feel of springers. It's just ALOT rougher ride than my Japanese made NSR.
And I anticipate some foam grips and gloves should do wonders.
Something else to look out for. On my bike the small bracket/guide that holds the bottom adjustment end of the clutch cable, was attached to the bike on a bad angle. So pulling the clutch and tensioning the cable would cause the cable to rub againt that metal adjustment fitting quickly wearing away the cables protective coating. And would have soon worn through the metal cable itself.
So I'd advise simply pulling back that rubber boot and checking it.
I needed to remove the bracket bend more of an angle and reset. Now no more rubbing.
But bending this guide caused the already iffy chrome plating to start cracking, so you will want to refinish the part.
It was no problem removing the chrome on the belt grinder.
Sounds like a partially blocked tank petcock or the fuel tank is vacuum locking.Next time it happens,open the fuel cap and ride on.If every thing runs properly, take apart the fuel tank cap and clean all the little holes.Do you have a fuel filter?If so,bypass it an see if it runs better.Paper element fuel filters can restrict flow on gravity feed fuel system like motorcycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmanajcarson
Without having to read through 355 pages here, just wondering who makes the engines on these bikes? Thanks, Jon
The bike is made by Ningbo Chariot Industry Trade Co.,LTD. Not sure if they actually make the engine. The website is:Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
http://nbchariot.com/product.asp?pid=221&id=221&cid=221
After only 20 miles of trouble free riding the first day, I have now noticed on only my second day riding, after only about 10 more miles that I suspiciously have the same problem of the engine just dying on me.
First time it happened, first trip on the highway doing no more than 45 (50 indicated) it started to backfire and losing power around the same time. Then as I pulled off slowing down it happed, a stall as soon as I stopped giving much throttle.
Sat a few minutes because just at that time I noticed the tube just out of the secondary intake port near the head had burst. So I trimmed it back and reattached... so after a 20-25 min rest I was on my way home. But 5 min later just seconds from home, the same thing backfire/spudder and stall when rolling in my driveway.
Sat again, this time olny 5-10 min, took it for a test ride across in a parking lot across the street, and in 5 min same shit again.
The first days ride seemed to go without a hitch, 20 min each way to work and back. Only difference might have been i was real soft on the throttle, and there was no initial indications of a problem ...
I don't like where this pandemic seems to be going.
Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmanajcarson
chruk bashre, I finally got around to taking off the air injector and adjusted the valves. The valves were dead tight. Removing the injector has made a big difference. Reduced backfire and low growl on decel. A definite do if you ask me.
Bikes stalling sounds like fuel restrictions, plugged filters or carb jets would be my first go to.
Do you know what this little nipple thing is on the bottom of my tank? I'm guessing it is some type of vent?Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Attachment 11670
I haven't seen that before.Maybe someone else can chime in.It could be a vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmanajcarson
When I first saw mine I figured it was the tank overflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmanajcarson
Sort of like a modern car having the EVAP path with a line running from the tank to the charcoal canister in order to catch gas that might otherwise over flow a full tank when it expanded on a hot day...
A car then purges it upon it's next use with opening of a solenoid valve and vacuum from the engine. I figured ours just dumps it out (on to the engine of all places) through that port.
Am I even close? Anyone??
That said, if that was right, it wouldn't explain why I needed to wrap a cloth around the gas cap when parked. As others use a fluffy hair tie, i have noticed gas coming up from around the cap... that port should relive any pressure.
Really sounds like I may be suffocating my fuel flow as this is where the tank should be venting...
Gunna try removing the cap next time I begin to stall.
Another thing to check is spark.Take a spare spark plug on a ride.When it quits running,pull the plug wire and put the spare plug on.Ground the plug on the engine and start it while looking to see if the spark plug is producing a bright blue spark.no spark could probably be a bad coil or pick up.
my 2010 tank does not have that.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Seems that they are dropping the original bobber this thread is about. They have 2 new ones for more money. The only difference I see is different handlebars and tanks.
So I wouldn't say it like that... Id say that they are fixing the leaky tank issue, and offering a new front end style. In fact they now offer 2 models, one is the original front endQuote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
A new model year is all.
Well, I'm reading my way through this whole thread. I was aware of the tank leak issue. And I didn't care for the original handlebars much. I'm at the point where Gardo sent his Dong Fang back due to not being able to license it in his state. Gat a ways to go. I assume they got that problem taken care of. I also noticed this bike doesn't have a lick starter. That's too bad.
IDK but on the older model its a 12mm x 1.50 Thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
most have bought the rare earth magnetic oil drain plug. Good investment AFAIAC.
Dont know squat about the 2012 model but I wish I had one to find out. Keep us informed.
Yep same thing happened to me. I upgraded to a stronger hose a O'Reilly auto parts but I will NEVER take this bike on an 80mhp hwy again. I will need a bigger bike for that. Tops 60mhp stock gear. If I want more than that Im springing for a Triumpf or Enfield and going into debt like my brother and his uber harley LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
And as long as Im saying that, What are Enfieled bikes? Are they better than Triumph, Harly or Yamaha? Just asking. Never even heard of them but dang their bikes look sweet.
Google Royal Enfield USA. Go to "community", which will take you to the forums. Then go to "Bullet with UCE engine". That will get you to the part of the forum about the newest version with the UCE engine. That is a unit construction engine, like modern Japanese bikes. The older model was one with separate engine and transmission, like the modern Twin Cam Harleys. The RE Bullets exported to the US all have the new 500cc single cylinder engine. It's a fuel injected pushrod motor. I had the earlier model, a 2007. The new ones are much better than the one I had, which was a pretty decent bike. If you think like I do, the RE Bullets are a great looking motorcycle. They are made in India and have an interesting history. They generally need a bit more maintenance than a new Japanese bike. See if you have a dealer near you and go see them in person and take a test ride. That's what I did, and came home with a new 2007 Bullet. A 500 is a nice sized bike. Freeway capable, but not to heavy. I got way more attention on the Bullet than any of the 25 or so bikes I've owned over 50+ years of riding.
When i cut it down i noticed how flimsy the tube is, barely a trace of any fiber reinforcement found on a better tube...Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Lots of people talk about just removing that entire secondary all together...
After I get things stable, decide on a rear sprocket, and learn well the normal capabilities of the engine, Ill too cap it off and see if its a worthy mod...
Im not certain but almost convinced the engine is the same engine on the 2 year models.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
And all but certain it is the same plug, i got a message from another 2012 owner he tried a m12x1.75 and it was too course. The thing is m12 has 3 fine pitch threads... 1, 1.25 and 1.5...
go figure.
I just don't feel like dumping the oil just to put it against my gauge. And still have a plug ready on the next change...
Dear me, first world problems, what is one to do...:naughty:
Which problem are you referring? About the tank, yes its an entirely new tank, mounted entirely differently. If the problem you are referring to is being able to register in NJ, CT or whatever his state was, then no i dont think it was resolved, you still cant reg in CT and NJ, PA, or CA i think. I being in NY was rather nervous for a time as all those states surround me but NH.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
Though in reading back a ways there were exactly 2 others whom were successful, and I can tell whom ever reads this as of May 2013 there is no problem here in NY...
I live in Hawaii, so, as of this thread (that I am reading from the start) I could take the first 3 letters of the vin, LXD, and check here to see if the can be registered and street licensed. That was the problem I was referring to. I actually like the new improved tank better, and I prefer the lower handlebars (not the "Z" bars) on the newer model too.
another rear sprocket upgrade question here....
help me think...
While going to a smaller rear sprocket is absolutely needed, im trying to determine how small to go...
with all variables the same load incline... does reducing the rear sprocket diameter, not only bump your top end but make each gear last longer?
I would think it just changes the amount of time in first, but the other 4 gears were the same same but a greater speed...
cuz right now if i find I can get away with always starting in second, ill probably go for the 33t
Or will i just be condemning my clutch to an early death?
Educate me...
fwiw im 160lb and in a hilly area, but these are short hills in suburban neighborhoods... not mile inclines on a highway.
I dont really plan on taking my bike on the highway much...
If you go to a smaller rear sprocket, you are raising your gear ratio. The engine will do less rpm in each gear at a given speed than it does now. So, the gears will "last longer". They will all be affected this way. But if you go to too high of a gear ratio, the engine won't have the power to pull the bike, and that gear may be useless. I am reading through this whole thread. Where I am at now someone said the stock rear sprocket is 40 teeth. They had gone to a 33 tooth and were worried they had gone too far, and suggested a 35 tooth might be about right. The front sprocket is just the opposite. To get a higher gear ratio, you would change to a sprocket with more teeth. I used to go buy a one tooth change on the front sprocket would equal about a 3 tooth change on the rear sprocket. The other thing thing you should notice by getting your bike to rev less at a speed, is better gas mileage, unless you find yourself twisting the throttle harder to compensate for the less power you will seem to have. You won't have quite the acceleration you have now, but the bike will seem more relaxed at a certain speed. It's a tradeoff.
here save yourself some time... heres a montage of sprocket testimonials i put together from this thread... 35 does seem to be the prevailing selection... there does appear to be conflicting feelings thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
rollenrock 140lb - 135lb
37t - happy
"I went with a 37. I have 8% grades that I have to go up on every ride. They are long, winding hills, and with my 37 I can hoover around 70 mph."
GUN ROD
35t - unhappy
"Due to Illinois flat roads, I went with a 35. Sorry that I did, when I do run into hills, no guts. Fast on the flat & nice rumble in town."
ghost1133 190 - 200lb
38t - happy
"I went with the 38 tooth sprocket, from instinct I guess. Worked out great. I did this with going from a 45 tooth sprocket, (stock). I could go smaller or larger. $29.00 a shot. But the 38 did the trick for me. I weigh about 190. From the take off, I would be hesitant to go smaller. But then the sprocket is so easy to change out, I might try a smaller one. Just for fun. That is when I get the leaking gas tank thing corrected.
I have been on two wheels for 30 years plus. This is a good bike. But really, does anyone on here think that speeds exceeding 60 mph. is a good idea with only a 250cc."
"I also switched to the 35 tooth sprocket from the 38. Lost a little umph at mid range and above, but rides so much smoother on the highway I am thinking I'll keep it."
"I am about 200 lbs. I ran a 38 tooth for about 800 miles. Switched to a 35 just for the hey of it. After about 200 miles I am thinking about going back to the 38 tooth. Going to give it another couple of hundred miles to be sure. I can switch the sproket out in about 15 minutes. lol"
bowtiewagon
35t - ?
"shifting is close to what you say depending on how fast you want to get up to speed.when I need to get on the freeway, its like 10,22,35,45,60+normal driving..10,20,30,40,50+."
alleykat 190
35t - iffy
"I'm at 190lbs with a 35 with no hills along the coast and sometimes wished I had a 38 lol."
hooliganboy
35t - iffy
"i ran a 35t which was fine here in louisiana, but, at times it did feel on take off that i was in other people's way. it really didn't have the get up and go"
Rungeg
35t
"The bike is running great. 200 miles just changed to a 35t sprocket. My original was 45t. Trying to get a few more MPH. Hopefully paperwork gets here soon. I would like to ride with a plate."
skullworkz 180-190lb
35t - happy
"I'm running a 35t on mine and I weigh around 180-190 on any givin day. The front sprocket is much harder to change out due to the inside area where the sprocket lies. You will have to get VERY handy with a grinder to make a different sprocket fit. With just the 35t on mine it moves pretty well and I really cant notice a differance in take off other than I doesn't wind out as fast in 1st and 2nd and in 5th gear it doesn't sound like its going to blow up."
Gumpsta
35t