That's a serious benefit :)Quote:
Originally Posted by prince666
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That's a serious benefit :)Quote:
Originally Posted by prince666
Hi all, checking in from Taiwan!
I've bought my bike about 2 months and was trying to find some minor modifications and found this post. Great read but I'm only up to page 13, lol
funny thing about the bikes in Taiwan is that, it has a different brand name. It's called Hartford. And the model name is Diablo 650EFI. but it sure looks the same!
Given the fact that the 650NK was out much earlier, i assume Hartford merely imported it and gave it the abovementioned name.
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G'Day tezza, sure looks like a CFMOTO CF650NK. Can't make it out from the photos, but do the crank case covers have 'CFMOTO' stamped into them?
There are a few locations where CFMoto's are re-badged through distributors, although CFMoto are wanting to move away from this and develop the CFMoto brand, awareness etc.
Plenty of parts on the likes of Taobao if you can read CHS, otherwise there are agents like Taobao focus that can assist with English language support, buying, logistics etc.
The CF650TR compilation sticky could also be useful for you despite the styling being a bit different, all the internals are the same, same engine and running gear pretty much...
On the speedometer schould be CF logo.
tezza, bikerdoc is right - CFMoto is rebranded differently for different markets (QianJiang - Benelli also is, by the way).
Yes, your bike is indeed a CFMoto 650 NK and there are all sorts of spares for it on taobao.
Welcome to the forum, hope this thread is of use and is altogether an interesting read!
Thanks guys!
I haven't really checked. But I'm pretty certain that this is a CF moto, unless the Taiwanese manufacturer added some modifications to it (which maybe likely as Hartford is a manufacturer itself).
It's been fun reading all these (and the weather-condition tests Steve's been giving), I'm liking my bike more and more each day :D
Just one thing though, as I've never rode any other bikes for a long period of time (and at 100km+), I don't know what other bikes are like. But for my bike, my hands get really sore with all the vibrations. Is it the same for you? (my mirror is pretty much useless as well because of all that vibration).
tezza, my bike does vibrate, but it's nothing extraordinary. Long trips are fine and my hands are OK riding it for 100 kms plus. As for the mirrors, yes, they vibrate as hell and render a very blurred picture.
I installed an aftermarket bar and removed the bar-end weights. Thought that might increase the vibration, but it had no effect whatsoever.
hmm...
I might go and get some random mirrors to check if they're better.
The blurred mirror starts as soon as I hit roughly 5k rpm or 70-80km ish.
I know there really isn't much comparison, but my scooter hits 100km without any blurred mirror, lol~
I think that's bars that vibrate - any mirrors would vibrate together with the bars, but why not try, probably some mirrors would work better than the stock ones. I never bothered though - I do look into the mirrors and so far I have been able to tell what it is that I see. Admittedly, it has been unnecessarily hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by tezza
I rode my buds, and he had drag bars with end cap mirrors, I hate the look but there was almost no vibes that came thru the mirrors, and they were actually usable without having to pull your elbows in....
Also last night I ran my NK on the 1/4 Mile race track here...Having no experience, a horrible reaction time, and riding the clutch alot outta first she still managed to pull 13.68sec. I only got one run as they closed it down but it was fun and I was proud of the wee lass.
Dragstrip sounds like fun :) What mirrors does your friend use? What's the brand, I mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskacf
He said they were just cheap Ebay Bar end mirrors... And the Drag strip is always fun. Even tho I lost to an R1...by alot... haha:riding:
bar end mirrors - not a fan myself... to easy to knock or be knocked and a hindrance to lane splitting. One of the key issues, is that nearly all MCs have weighted bar end inserts... these are functional aside from balancing the bar, they assist with dampening vibrations transferred through the bars... not sure if add-on bar end mirrors allow for the retaining of the OEM bar end weights. If not then to my mind - FWIW not good...
and... YMMV!
I have been looking for a solution to the problem where the water from the front wheel splashes onto the radiator and evaporates right into my face. That's massively uncomfortable riding in / after the rain.
I've been thinking of a mudguard extension, but there is none manufactured for 650 NK.
So I noticed that the front mudguard on 650 TR is much bigger than that on the NK and extends lower than the the radiator's bottom edge.
Surprisingly, there are not so many stores on taobao selling TR mudguards. I got mine from here:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=..._u=pk0i86re733
Since TR's don't come in blue, I got a grey one, which will at least match my forks and the bottom of my tank shrouds.
This photo shows clearly how much longer the mudguard from the TR is:
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The installation was pretty straightforward, no mods required. The end result reminds me how a Suzuki GW 250 looks.
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Not so long ago I purchased a top box rack for my 650 NK and ... installed a top box. Well, after less than half a year the thing snapped at the weld seam. Good work dear unknown Chinese manufacturer!!!
I haven't loaded the top box with anything heavy. The heaviest thing I ever carried was my work backpack with a laptop and a folder in it. Way under 5 Kg.
The top box was removed immediately and installed on my Benelli scoot.
I put the passenger grab rails back onto my 650 NK and have it in the original state now.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Halt
I have always found these points of fixing to always to be the weak link , I for one add some more weld at these points and have never had a problem even with the top box loaded up , a quick fix , but should we do it ? depends on ones point of view?
prince 666, I will surely fix this. I just don't think I'll need a top box on my NK 650 any time soon :)
Also be careful of the woefully poor rear tabs welded to the sub frame, they won't stand up to much weight. The front tabs are fine however.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Halt
ZMC888, right!
I have been having the red EFI warning light for quite a time now. A trip to the official dealer resulted in the local mechanic explaining it to me that my TPS sensor was cracked, which resulted in a set of ECU errors.
Fine. So taobao didn't have the sensor itself and I splashed on the new (butterfly valve drilled) throttle bodies assembly (with a TPS sensor on it for sure).
The replacement process was relatively simple: tank, air filter, air filter seat, there you go. On a side note, I didn't like it how the bike's wiring loom is routed. On top of all, the fuel pump (or whatever that is that goes between the tank and the throttle assembly) was not hanged on its holder, but was just there on the engine. Sticking it where it was supposed to sit explained to me why the assembly guys didn't bother - it s a pain.
Anyways, I installed the new throttle bodies, hooked everything up and it worked OK. Except for one thing - the red EFI warning light is still on.
Restarting ECU (ignition off - WOT - ignition on - EFI light - throttle closed - ignition off) and unplugging the battery for 8 hours resulted in nothing.
And, starting yesterday, the sensor is sold separately on taobao for 150 yuan (much cheaper than the 990 yuan throttle bodies' assembly).
When I rode the bike home, I noticed popping noises in the airbox on deceleration. So... Was it not a faulty TPS after all???
A bit of googling resulted in the following: those popping noises mean that the mixture is lean. The thing responsible for mixture quality in FI engines is lambda sensor (oxygen sensor). My bike has 2 of those. They run 550 yuan a piece from taobao. A malfunctioning lambda sensor can screw the fueling badly and result in ECU errors.
I am mightily disappointed at tis moment.
Steve doesn't sound like it was the TPS. See the TPS just tells the engine how much fuel to put in, so logically if it were cracked then you'd have WOT throttle instead of idle or idling and not being able to open the throttle from idle.
The thing under the tank, I believe is the fuel filter.
To me it sounds like some cracked or damaged connectors or wiring is screwing things up. Those lamda sensors I believe are Magnetti Marelli design, surely they should be more reliable and be one of the last things to screw up. Electrical connectors also sound like the culprit because you say when riding in the rain or wet the bike runs better. That would logically mean that something is shorting and the water is preventing this shorting or there is a loose connection and the water being present is causing the conductivity to pass through it. I heard before one Auzzie guy traced fueling problems down to his damaged and very cheap ECU connector.
I wonder if it is possible to trawl though some of the wiring loom and replace the most important wiring connectors with western quality stuff. Should be fairly cheap, but time consuming.
Might be worth it, I'm just not sure if I want to start doing it. Actually, the connectors that I came in contact with looked pretty reliable and none had broken plugs or spliced wires.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMC888
The TPS was cracked, but not the throttle body assembly itself - I'll post pics later to clarify what exactly happened there.
The problem was not there when I bought the bike and I can't identify what triggered it. I think I'll just go with the lambda sensors first (will install the old throttle body assembly after I glue the sensor), see if it runs properly.
Then will replace the oxygen sensor that plugs into my airbox.
If that doesn't solve the problem, I think I'll have to have a long chat with the dealer.
Surely if you have two throttle bodies you have to TPS's. Not try switching them about?
Right, so here are the pictures of a cracked TPS on my throttle body assembly. Apparently, I have 2 throttle bodies (old version, not drilled) and one TPS responsible for both of them.
After the pictures were taken, I glued the sensor with A/B glue (some sort of epoxy) and am planning to reinstall it together with 2 new oxygen sensors to see if it eliminates the red ignition warning light on my panel.
If it doesn't I have the following options:
1) Have a long chat with a dealership guy and force him to use his mythical ECU-reading equipment, which I heard of but never saw to goddamn help me out a bit.
2) If it rides well, just forget about the warning light and call it "Chinese Gremlins".
3) Syphon gas from the bike's tank into a 10L jerrycan and burn the bike right in front of the CFMoto dealership videotaping the whole shebang.
Anyways, here come the pics.
Side view:
Attachment 16272
View from the other side:
Attachment 16273
Head-on view:
Attachment 16274
The overall view of the assembly:
Attachment 16275
Steve the throttle bodies look weird. I've was sent two previously one drilled and one not drilled. Neither looked like yours. In fact I saw three altogether including the one in my bike. Yours actually look like the LAMS Australian restricted throttle bodies. Of course could just be an earlier version.
Both the ones I had look more like this http://www.taobao.com/view_image.php...erRate=53&fv=9
I also can't really understand what epoxying the TPS could possibly do. Inside is some circuit board and other crap of which I'm not sure of. I even heard of car people smacking ones that don't work properly with a hammer to fix them, they either work or they don't. Still worth a try.
I took the pic of the downside of the throttle bodies, those that go into the engine. The upper part (that goes into the air box) looks the same as the picture in your link.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMC888
As for epoxying the TPS, well, the sensor works (since the bike has been riding with a cracked sensor body for at least 2 months before I was shown the damage). I don't want the crack go further and have the sensor break apart. Apparently, the crack didn't influence the electronics inside, so I think it's worth a try.
I remember the throttle bodies being similar (ish) either side, still I could be mistaken was about a year ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Halt
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMC888
I changed my TB's while back and one what I Got back was drilled and both of them looked likes Steve's
TBs...
Personally I think that TaoBao picture and Steve pictures are same.
So, one of these days I went to my mechanic for lambda-sensor change (straight away, changing lambda sensors and air filter sensor didn’t solve my EFI warning problem).
What happens is: I remove the bellypan and I kind of like my bike this way.
What followed: I removed all the fairings and relocated the blinkers, installed the seat from CFMoto 650 TR and took the protective shield off of the headlight (yes, stupid thing to do, since rain will definitely ruin it; as soon it happens, I'll put a good old CB 400 headlight on it).
I relocated the license plate to the left of the rear wheel (used a chopper license plate bracket for it) and installed 41mm fork gaiters.
Not that I wanted a specific mod or anything, but I like my bike much better this way. The best thing is: should I need to get it back to stock, the whole procedure will take about an hour or so.
Oh, yes, the most important part: I ditched the stock rubber (finally) and installed a pair of Pirelli MT60R’s. That does make a difference!
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Why did you remove that protective "glass" from lights? I would like to say that you can ship to me if you don't need it as police broke mine many months a go (I was not eager to stop and give them money ;)
But Vietnam will not let anything motorcycle related second hand stuff in the country :eek2: