or do you mean bare like this?
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or do you mean bare like this?
Attachment 11900
:popcorn:
:17::goodtime:
just updated my Album. tricky clicky to get the before/after thing just right. free preview time
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i thought i stopped that last picture from going on, but, oh goodie, just found a Before for my favorite After. have to 'mod' my Album again. i try this up.
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ya ya... like that and that....Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
this engine is just a bit... 'thinner' than im used to...
At least on the 2012 model there are the 2 welded tabs to hold the pump that ill have to cut at some point
So capped off what was left of the secondary air intake system.
And then before starting the engine, i decided to adjust my valves...
Well, I just like just about everyone else whom has reported, I find my valves dead tight... that is NO clearance at all.
I found this a bit odd being from what i understand a bit of clearance is standard for a push-rod type engine.
And it wasn't even like, they were just in contact and as soon as i loosened the stem the gap began to give clearance... Not at all, it was like a bunch of little turns until finally stress was relived and the gap began to clear.
And this is with the motor cold of course...
So from what i understand, the point of that tiny bit of clearance is to allow expansion of the rods when the engine has heated up...
Well as soon as i started up, the clapping noise of the valves with clearance seemed quite evident.
anyway, i would recommend everyone take a look at their valves as it seems this is something the builders aren't concerned about...
Especially if you have a new bike. I don't really know what it means for older engines... perhaps they have given themselves room already... yikes
chruk, I see you got the valve cover off. The recomended clearances I got from a reliable source are exaust .008 - intake .006. Works for me. Make sure you are in compression stroke or you will be way loose.
Reliable source?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
The document from PIT motors recommends .004 & .002
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post58046
isn't PIT the importer of the CCW Heist? Isn't the Heist using the same engine? Isn't that a more reliable source?
Do tell...
VALVE LASH. man, somecrap. dongfangin thing. alot of searching. no real good info. i know this has been going on a while. what did barnone say when he was on?
the[PIT-MOTORS]page link from a few threads back says 0.002"~0.004=(0.051mm~0.102mm) we have a 167FMM as you know.
on my bing page alone i saw 0.05mm~0.06mm=0.002"~0.0025"(167FMM-M,heist),
a little down the page, 0.04mm~0.06mm=0.0015" ~0.0025" (167FMM(CG250)).
then a 167FMM-N led me nowhere.
and then if you go this page, you can see another set of specs. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CG250-250CC-167FMM-4-STROKE-AIR-COOLED-ENGINE-MOTOR-MOTORCYCLE-DIRT-BIKE-ATV-/360580057495 go here and a bit down the page past the commercials shows a chart of the
250cc shineray 167FMM(CG250) with specs showing 0.04mm~0.06mm. thats a tiny 0.0015"~0.0025" !!!
:popcorn:
with no definite answer, i'll go with the pit motor document, their whole thing with the CCW bikes is customer service... I mean they are selling basically the same bike as the DF at a 50% premium, if they cant give a decent recommendation on this bike, then who will.Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
Otherwise in lieu of a definite answer, one tuning method might be to set the clearance as wide as anyone recommends, then keep closing them until you hear (or dont hear rather) much clanking when the engine is warm. but what do i know....
I gap mine the very same as I gap my 1974 VW beetle , .6 and .8
but it does chatter a bit more than I like so perhaps .4 .6 might be better
tell me u mean .006 and .008, or 6/1000 and 8/1000 or even 6x10^-3 and 8x10^-3Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
normally I would assume a typo but I think Dan is a bit out there. :naughty:
I dig all this information, but I have one favor to ask. Does anyone have a link to an instructional video on how to do this? I am not or never have been a motorcycle mechanic, but I am a car mechanic, so doing it is not an issue, just knowing how is. I have been hearing a little bit of noise recently from the motor, and am assuming it is valve clacking. I have yet to adjust any of them in the 9236 miles I have on the bike. I think perhaps I need to. But I am one of those guys where if it aint broke, don't fix it. I also have a question to anyone who has changed out the sprocket to a 35 tooth. I have had to get another one the last month or so agao cause of my studs breaking again, no worries, but I am noticing that the sprocket itself does not seem to be seating in the chain correctly on about 4 to 8 links as the rotation occurs. Has anyone else been aware of this issue on their replacement sprocket. Mine was purchased through Old Bike Barn and it is a JT Rear Sprocket JTR279.35T 35 Tooth. This is the same one I had gotten when I initially changed to the 35 tooth. I am concerned it is going to chew up the chain so I am going to replace it, but I do not want to go through Old Bike Barn again if this is going to be the same sprocket they send me. So basically where else can I buy this sprocket and hopefully a better one.
bowtiewagon. this is where the instructions are.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByFv...hl=en_US&pli=1
I will check on that, but I think it is pretty snug. As for the link I cannot get it to open.Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
:popcorn:
Ya, that link is a bit funny.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Try opening the link in another browser, it doesn't work for me in firefox but does in IE.
Or try downloading then opening in acrobat.
I too was having trouble being sure i was in the compression stroke, and afaik i cant be sure i was... it seemed to me any TDC left the bike out of compression but did leave it with both valves at highest point.
hmm i best check again, its really so easy to get the top off.
I just got through looking over things on this thread. It seems where I got my information was slightly confused. Anyhow I read a post from barnone and he quoted from his manual and a sticker stuck directly to his motor, the proper valve ajustment for our motor is intake .06mm exhaust .08mm. Which is more in line with the .002in .004in from the Heist. Hope that clears things up. The manual they sent with my 2012 was a chunk of garbage. A kind of cover all DF 250 kind of thing with instructions like " to change your oil lay the bike flat on the ground" sheesh
If you are in the exhaust part of the stroke when you adjust your valves it will just make the gap about an 1/8 inch when in compression stroke.
If you are in the compression stroke the exhaust will be tight when properly gapped
u will know if its the compression stroke if the next valve to open is the exhaust valve
and u right axa .006 and .008
Ya I read that, that's ridiculous. How about the part when they forbid you to use the vegtable or cooking oil, but do suggest somthing like the RB#33 or something like that oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
The entirety of google couldn't guess what they might be talking about.
Ahhh elementary indeedQuote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
used my little finger for the intake and my thumb for the outtake.ha
#2'+#4'. a lot quieter now. mine were barely hanging on.
Oh,thats o.0#2"~0.#o4" yEAH, thats what i mean. i think. hmmm, letseenow..tang/vert=cos+sin=/delt-=+%@^hms\\=0.002"~0.004".
While I am reading through this giant thread (now on page 2110 of 369...), I have a couple questions. 1.Has anyone bought one of these and shipped and licensed it in Hawaii? 2.Has anyone bought the newer version that now comes with a "peanut" gas tank? I'm wondering if they went to a better mount that won't cause the gas tank leaks the older design had. 3.I have only read of two cases where the sealed spoke wheels had a leak so far. One owner got a new wheel under warranty. The other had a shop install an inner tube. These types of wheels are a pretty new development to motorcycles, and I would worry about leaks. Anyone else had problems with these? One owner (the one that got a warranty new wheel) said he was told they couldn't install an inner tube, as the wheels are designed for tubeless tires. But the other owner had a shop install a tube. Who is right here? Can you or can't you install an inner tube in these wheels? The existence of this forum is a HUGE incentive to buy one of these bikes. The new model has, I hope, a new gas tank with better mounts. And, it has bars I prefer over the older ones. Price is down to $2069.95 at Powersportsmax.com. I just need to get a shipping price and decide whether I want one of these or not. I like that it has an easy to work on push rod engine, and that everything is pretty out in the open with easy access. I don't like having no kick starter or centerstand. I don't like sealed tubeless spoke wheels. I wish it was geared higher from the factory, but have no problem replacing the rear sprocket. I like that it has very little chrome. Chrome and the rainy Puna District of Hawaii do not go together well. We have lots of beautiful sunny weather, but it rains most nights, and some days, and the word "hard" doesn't describe the sometimes downpours. As in, you cannot drive in it. I'd rather have no chrome, than a cheaper quality chrome that will rust.
I Have put tubes in tubeless mounted tires so I don't see a problem. I suppose it depends on the shop you take it too. The 2012 version of the bike has a new style of gas tank that is mounted different and doesn't have the leaking problem of the 2010 model. I have read in this thread of people having problems with rust on the chromed parts in rainy seaside areas. Where I live it's very dry and the little water I have been in contact with has caused no rusting yet. Good luck
Birdmove, my fear is that most of these Chinese bikes will rust if exposed to too much rain. I don't know how long my bike was left out to the elements of L.A., and how much rain soaked it, but the exhaust was rusted up before I bought it. The rest of the bike is not too bad, and I do find the plastics holding up well; that being said, my bike is not a Dong Fang bobber. If memory serves me well, there was a guy who purchased one way at the beginning of this thread, and it rusted easily because he left it out while he waited for someone to pick it up after he got a refund (it might have been member 'Gardo', but I believe someone else had to send theirs back due to registration issues).
Not sure on the HI thing.I haven't seen anyone on any Chinese moto forums talk about being in HI.
As far as the rusting issue.Any where there is rain or high humidity,rusting will be an issue,even on my Yamaha and Suzuki bikes.Anything close to the coast that may be in salt air will rust really fast.The only way to deal with it is waxing the piss outta everything,or complete strip,paint/powder coat,and re chrome.My Suzuki and Yamaha have rust in places that never see direct moister.When these things are shipped,expect it in any condition.
If a tube would work in these rims, then I'm not too worried. I've done a few tire replacements in my 50+ years of riding. The last was both tires on a 2005 KLR650, which turned out fine. And my 2 scooters, and the next bike I get, won't be kept out in the rain. They will be under a roof for sure, and possibly a shed. I do remember reading about someone who had the spokes rust very quickly on their Dong Fang bobber.