Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

Attachment 12171ive ALWAYS used car oil in every motorcycle ive had , never had clutch problems on any one of em , 1973 kawi KZ 1000 was the superbike that year , 1976 Susuki GS 750 knocked off kz from the top the super bike mound , 1982 Honda CB 750F supersport also ruling superbike of its time , and now I sit on my little dong , pic is my other ride , almost exactly 4 times as powerful (about 40 HP) as the dong and 10 times the weight and she runs 80 :O , no radiator and 2 1/2 quarts of oil no vacume lines and 1 belt , and this is also basically a motorcycle motor , with detatched tranny , BUT I use the CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP oil , if its old or a copy of old , cheap oil works perfectly well , rust free 1974 imported from Germany I bought from fella that bought it in 1974 for 5500 and made him a 500 profit 40 years later , .... my ex paid 46g's for 2006 mustang (that every year had something not warrantied break increasing the cost to about 55 g's) the day it was paid off it was only worth 5g's .... my brother , the master mechanic working for boeing also uses cheap car oil in his bikes

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

Attachment 12171ive ALWAYS used car oil in every motorcycle ive had , never had clutch problems on any one of em , 1973 kawi KZ 1000 was the superbike that year , 1976 Susuki GS 750 knocked off kz from the top the super bike mound , 1982 Honda CB 750F supersport also ruling superbike of its time , and now I sit on my little dong , pic is my other ride , almost exactly 4 times as powerful (about 40 HP) as the dong and 10 times the weight and she runs 80 :O , no radiator and 2 1/2 quarts of oil no vacume lines and 1 belt , and this is also basically a motorcycle motor , with detatched tranny , BUT I use the CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP oil , if its old or a copy of old , cheap oil works perfectly well , rust free 1974 imported from Germany I bought from fella that bought it in 1974 for 5500 and made him a 500 profit 40 years later , .... my ex paid 46g's for 2006 mustang (that every year had something not warrantied break increasing the cost to about 55 g's) the day it was paid off it was only worth 5g's .... my brother , the master mechanic working for boeing also uses cheap car oil in his bikes

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your enhancing the point, your a long time grease monkey, with the situation under control.

im a professional elec and sw eng, i like to get crazy once in a while flash a prototype board and then run around the office holding it without an anti static bag... real wild like...
so i suppose we all do things we are familiar with that we wouldn't otherwise recommend to anyone else.
Might that be a good enough reason to not recommend something to a newbie that is generally frowned upon, such as using car oil with a wet clutch.

Im sure the master mechanic or his padawans wont fear any sort unwelcome side effects caused by whatever on thy bike, but others may, so why push it.
its the rest of us for whom just do not know any better...

DanDaMan,
I'm trying to get back in sync with the DF world and luckily found your post #3396 which has good links and info on common mods and problems.
Be nice if it was a sticky and more additions were made to it.
Thanks

Need to lift that DF for maintainance ? Just don't put this under the exhaust pipe.

Amazon.com: Motorcycle Cruiser Adjustable Pivot Center Stand Lift Jack Display Hoist: Automotive

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

get a flashlight, some glasses, get on the floor and look at the i.d. badges riveted to your frame. what does it spec for oil? or read your manual. or both. why does everyone ask about the oil when it is written in plenty of places to find. look at your stuff. spark plug setting also there. sorry, no valves. roll your dice and see what thread # comes up for that one. i used the ccw setting of 0.002"~0.004" because that is the engine on my bike. 167-FMM.

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i apologize. all the questions about numbers could be that none of them match very often.10w40 3 times in the book. 15w40 on the frame. spark=5-7 on frame, 6-8 AND 6-7 in book. valves, i've seen references from an engine with two cylinders all the way to a vw bug.
everyone uses their OWN best judgement. good luck.

to do it rite, it has to be like this.

Attachment 12172

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Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

Need to lift that DF for maintainance ? Just don't put this under the exhaust pipe.

Amazon.com: Motorcycle Cruiser Adjustable Pivot Center Stand Lift Jack Display Hoist: Automotive

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it fits under the pipe just fine, i got one just like it.

guess that's fair axa , and wish I knew how and wer to sticky something

Just want to say welcome back to Barnone. I want to also thank him for starting this thread, I bought my bike way back when just on all the info he started this thread on. I am 9670 miles into her life, and she still loves the road. Thanks man, would probably not have bought it without your input.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Just want to say welcome back to Barnone. I want to also thank him for starting this thread, I bought my bike way back when just on all the info he started this thread on. I am 9670 miles into her life, and she still loves the road. Thanks man, would probably not have bought it without your input.

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bowtiewagon,
Thanks and good to be back. I have a lot of catching up to do since my new 2012 DF is on the way.

Barnone, I am still reading my way through this LONG thread. Why did you sell your early model DGF bobber? If I get one, it will most certainly be the newer model with the Sportster looking peanut tank and lower bars. The older tank, though it was a very unique looking one, it didn't do it for me. But the leakage problems many were having were alarming. When you get your new model, please do a writeup/comparison on it, as I am trying to decide whether to get one on these, or a dual sport like the TMRC 200 or even a little Honda CT-70 clone.

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Originally Posted by birdmove

Barnone, I am still reading my way through this LONG thread. Why did you sell your early model DGF bobber? If I get one, it will most certainly be the newer model with the Sportster looking peanut tank and lower bars. The older tank, though it was a very unique looking one, it didn't do it for me. But the leakage problems many were having were alarming. When you get your new model, please do a writeup/comparison on it, as I am trying to decide whether to get one on these, or a dual sporting like the TMRC 200 or even a little Honda CT-70 clone.

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birdmove,
I guess I am a somewhat of motorcycle whore as I have gone through over 50 or more in the last 55 plus years of riding bikes. At times I have had up to 7 in the garage. Currently I am on my third W650, have owned two Pacific Coasts, two Transalps, multiple crusiers, SYM HD200, BSA, Triumph, XT225, several China bikes among others.

I guess I sold the DF because I wanted something else and got a decent price for it, almost what I paid but not including extras.

I had a Pitster Pro Classic 127 (CT70 clone) which was fun but it is gone now to a happy Cherokee Indian here in WNC. He rides it as a liquor scooter even though it is 125cc. Always wanted a RE , maybe some day.

I'm hoping that the tank leaking issue is solved on the new model. That was the only real problem with he old model which could have been fixed (with a different tank)other than the gearing,seat, and jetting which was easily resolved. I like fooling with bikes and the DF is real easy to work on like my new Ural.

The DF is not a powerful bike as you well know.

Anyway will do a comparison when I get the new one on the road. I don't expect much difference.
BTW price was $2199.99 shipped to NC.

Attachment 12175
Off topic but always like to throw in a photo. My Ural loaded with with two bicycles headed out to ride the loop at Cade's Cove in the Smokey National Park.

Attachment 12176
Me on the Dragon on my old DF

That's quite a selection. I've been riding for coming up on 52 years now, and owned just over 25 motorcycles. I had an XT225, a BSA 500 twin in high school, and my wife has a SYM HD200 (but I ride it a lot too). And I am toying with the idea of a CT-70 clone. My deceased best friend from grade school on many years ago bought a used Kawasaki W2SS, which was a very good copy of a 650 BSA pre-unit construction engine. It had a single carb and was a torque-monster. It was a ripping ride. I don't think many modern riders have ridden anything like that. My friend had that Kawasaki and I had a 1963 (I think) BSA 500 twin with twin carbs. That BSA had a really nice mid range and decent top end, but the Kawasaki had a low end that would really stretch your arms. Chuck and I were class of 1972 and lived, ate, and breathed motorcycles back then.

My BSA was a 650 with the single carb. Traded it for a new Suzuki X6 Hustler (two stroke 250cc six speed) probably about 1967 or so. I could not believe how reliable it was after the BSA. Put some army surplus back packs on it for saddlebags and rode it down to Belize (British Honduras) to visit my sister and her husband. Camped out the whole way without any problems.

My BSA 500 did what BSA's were best at......blowing up. The vibration cracked the oil line stem at the oil tank while I was going up Snoqualomie Pass in Washington State and fried the engine.

so someone tell me , can one of these tachs, be hooked up to this single cylinder.
http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-230...productDetails

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Originally Posted by axa

so someone tell me , can one of these tachs, be hooked up to this single cylinder.
http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-230...productDetails

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Ad says 4,6 , 8 cyl so I would say no.
This one will http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-meter-t...-/321140945942
but it is slow to respond and kinda dorky looking. Internal battery so very easy install. Just wrap a wire around your spark plug wire. Has an hour meter. The one I had on my previous DF is now on my Ural.
Attachment 12177

This tach works http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-...pr_product_top At least it says it works on a Honda rebel and those are single cylinder machines as far as I know.

this Dec. 2010 Dong Fang DF250RTB bobber may be up for sale.

Attachment 12178

Attachment 12179

original style gas tank, replaced, does not leak. bluewhite/darkgreen wire issue resolved all swithces, beams, and electrical current work as proper. (kill switch missing. it looks cooler to me wrapped in electrical tape so there it sits)spokes never rusted. tires never leaked. no light or bracket of any kind ever broke or burned out. cables never pinched twisted broken snapped or in need of replacement. sprocket bolts never snapped but, new sprocket bolts. new 38t sprocket. sprocket tried and true. chain nicely lubed and new grease on axle while gear mods were made. chain tensioner is true and adjustable if needed. 4 extra(black chrome)nuts to lock the rear in place after chain adj.. seat modified to sit true, also custom leather seat cover. all of the seat's movable and/or touching parts new grease. not sure of exact amount of fork fluid i ended up with but went with more of a 'not so stiff over the bump but not over mushy to maintain a stable ride' set up. custom foam hand grip covers. rides nice. almost too nice for a rigid. i would go as far as to say smooth. almost 'with shocks' smooth. not to be confused with a softail only any hardtail.
lowered speedo. lowered front blinkers. horn re-located. SAIS removed and bracket cut off
and frame nicely painted for a clean old chopper look. (still have all parts). engine never stalled out while riding. original spark plulg. original fuel filter. original air filter. valves now set at 0.002"~0.004". using 10w40 motorcycle specific. starts instantly and runs strong. shift linkage and/or brake linkage never broke, but are re-enforced anyway. kickstand re-inforced to not be so wobbly and helps the bike stand up more solid with peace of mind.
extra tank, (leaks), front fender(stripped), daytona bars, stupid mirrors, sprockets, bolts, and tools in a bag with owners manual. how much do you think its all worth? i want to sell. i was in the lines of $3300.00. love of labor included. love of bikes too. and safety first.

let me hear some input.

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Originally Posted by Bob form NV

This tach works http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-...pr_product_top At least it says it works on a Honda rebel and those are single cylinder machines as far as I know.

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Honda Rebels are in line twin cylinders.

$3300.00 ? Whatever the market will bear... I don't want to burst your bubble,but I do not think you will be able to find a sucker that rich. I hope you do though.
I was lucky to get half of what I paid,when I sold mine.(less than ONE mile on it too).

:popcorn:

:scooter:
Attachment 12208

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Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

Honda Rebels are in line twin cylinders.

$3300.00 ? Whatever the market will bear... I don't want to burst your bubble,but I do not think you will be able to find a sucker that rich. I hope you do though.
I was lucky to get half of what I paid,when I sold mine.(less than ONE mile on it too).

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Not attempting to be rude, but seems your too emotionally attached to that bike, and thus inflating its value. just cuz you own and love, doesn't make it a classic.
Put it this way, your asking way over street price. my newer 2012, and frankly improved, model with the optional springers was delivered to my door for less than 2500$, and thats with the 6 months warranty to boot.
in my opinion i dont see these bike gaining equity for work put in, that crowd payed a 50% premium for the heist...

That said, it depends, find someone and its their first bike, you could possibly take advantage of them... but is that what you really want to do. Then again, value is what someone is willing to pay... alls fair in war, love... and bikes?

For the most part when someone mods a bike or adds goodies, it doesn't add to the value of a motorcycle. One problem is, what you find cool, the next guy will not. Also, these are Chinese bikes. Chinese bikes generally drop like a rock in value. You can't buy any motorcycle new with the idea of making your money back, or even breaking even. You may find someone who just has to have your bike and will pay a bunch. Good luck to you on that. And, as mentioned above, there is t least one seller with the new model Dongs priced at $2069 plus freight.

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Originally Posted by barnone

Ad says 4,6 , 8 cyl so I would say no.
This one will http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-meter-t...-/321140945942
but it is slow to respond and kinda dorky looking. Internal battery so very easy install. Just wrap a wire around your spark plug wire. Has an hour meter. The one I had on my previous DF is now on my Ural.
Attachment 12177

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Im in the process of tearing down my front end to expose it more nice like...
and these types wouldn't fit the bill, but a dial tach would.

none of you know what you are talking about. this bike list for 8000. 3000 is way under.

0.2 intake 0.4 or 0.6 for exhaust is specs for valve adjustment for an Over head cam (OHC) engine . These Bobber 229cc motors are over head valve (OHV) motors. That means go for about 0.4 for the intake valve and 0.6 for the exhaust valve and it will be good to go. OHV motors are more forgiving than a OHC engines derived from old racing motor designs. OHV motors are more for dependable utility use. That's why the streets of Asia (India) are covered with bikes with these same motors in different cc sizes. Its like a baby half a panhead Harley. Won't win any races but It'll just keep going and going. BTW why is this thread 8 miles long ??

About MPG, I put a 15 tooth on front and I think a 38 out back. Acceleration isn't that bad and got I shit you not 80 miles per gallon at about 45-51 MPH on country two lane roads. Now I don't want to up the darn main jet . LOL I emptied the tank and put a measured 32 ounces (qt) in the tank and went a measured buy two different vehicles 20 miles. In this neck of the woods that's 80 miles per US gallon. Not bad in a pinch ! PS. Had to mod the case for a 16 tooth front that was to tall, dropped back to a 15 for the results stated above. And bike is very usable for my 6'3 250 lbs.

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

none of you know what you are talking about. this bike list for 8000. 3000 is way under.

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LOL, that's the spirit! :lol8:

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Originally Posted by axa

Not attempting to be rude, but seems your too emotionally attached to that bike, and thus inflating its value. just cuz you own and love, doesn't make it a classic.
Put it this way, your asking way over street price. my newer 2012, and frankly improved, model with the optional springers was delivered to my door for less than 2500$, and thats with the 6 months warranty to boot.
in my opinion i dont see these bike gaining equity for work put in, that crowd payed a 50% premium for the heist...

That said, it depends, find someone and its their first bike, you could possibly take advantage of them... but is that what you really want to do. Then again, value is what someone is willing to pay... alls fair in war, love... and bikes?

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I agree with axa and mailman. But keep in mind im still a bike newb (1 year only).

I paid $2500 for my TTL and I would be lucky to get $1500 for it honestly. Main selling point on this bike is it's retro looks but then again I have found other bikes out there that have that as well and are better quality.

Not dissing my DF mind you. I love it and it's the best I could get for 2500 so Im not complaining. Either way I will have it for at least another year as even the retro enfield bikes cost $6-$7k new. And I dont have that kind of money right now as Im living from pay check to pay check. Ironically, the reviews say that the india made bikes have the same rust problems as the chinese ones do. Go figure LOL. Next bike I get is staying in the garage for sure.

Honestly I can see me holding on to my DF even if I do get another bike. Like buying a new car sometimes we get over angtious and take a huge loss on a trade in just to get that new steed. I have done that before but I will not give my DF away for nothing. Hell the damn thing works and is fun to ride. Just means less room in the garage.