Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

Maybe you can try bending them to make them longer. Might have to take them off put a one inch block under the end of the fender measure from hole to hole and fab up a new pair. Pain in the ass but getting anything from the dealer will most likely be the same as you got and take to the end of the summer. Have to keep an eye on the other end as Dantheman said. It's beyond me how if they are using standard parts some fit and some don't. Might ask axa to measure the hole to hole center on his and see if they are different. Mine are 10 9/32 center to center.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob form NV

Maybe you can try bending them to make them longer. Might have to take them off put a one inch block under the end of the fender measure from hole to hole and fab up a new pair. Pain in the ass but getting anything from the dealer will most likely be the same as you got and take to the end of the summer. Have to keep an eye on the other end as Dantheman said. It's beyond me how if they are using standard parts some fit and some don't. Might ask axa to measure the hole to hole center on his and see if they are different. Mine are 10 9/32 center to center.

---

Anything for the creator.

I would say mine were exactly 10 9/32 as well, or perhaps 10 1/4.
I would have guess they must be using a fixture only the alignment on one of the welded on mounting hole bushings is quite off the proper angle...

heck you can have mine, as you can see i sure dont need them...

Attachment 12348

That said and done, this means little without knowing the exact placement of the mounting holes on the fender and frame...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by birdmove

Barnone, I really like the looks of the new model bobber like yours. I'm an opinionated old geezer, but after almost 52 years of riding motorcycles, that's just the way I am. To me the peanut tank and the new bars just improve this bike a bunch. Sorry to anyone, but that old tank and bars just look out of place, awkward, like when a Chinese maker calls their motorcycle the "Cool Boy", or something. Barnone, this is your second, maybe you better keep this one? Did you take a loss when you sold your first one?

---

I think unrealistic expectation regarding bike value have come up here recently...
We might want to reevaluate...

I believe reading the Creator mentioned it was sold for about 1000? or 1500?

Something is a loss if you expect its later value to hold or increase.
But that is what most call an investment.
I don't know if one should buy a Chinese bike with this investment expectation.

i bought a sandwich for 5$, crapped it out, got nothing but calories for it.
Most would say that wasn't a loss because i didn't expect any monetary value for that sandwich later.

The Creator drove the hell out of that bike and sold it for something, not sure how that would be considered a loss unless appreciation was expected. It shouldn't be, cuz I didn't see the DFRTB listed this site:
http://online.wsj.com/public/resourc...-invcar04.html

When it is, ill take thousand shares of Ningbo Dongfang Lingyun Vehicle Mfg Co

That looks good axa. I went out and took a closer look at the way the fender is mounted and noticed that when I have to adjust the position of the rear axel for chain stretch it is going to move the tire position so that the further back you move the axel the less clearance you will have between the tire and the fender near the tail light. My bike came with the axel in the full forward position and the chain is just loose, maybe a quater inch movement when I first got it to about 3/8 inch now. I'd like it to be more but that's what I got. So if they added a link to get some more play it could explain the fender clearance problem. About the only thing I can see to do is add the spacer at the bottom like barnone did, the more you move the tire back the more clearance you have at the bottom of the fender allowing for a bigger spacer there. the fender mount through the bar under the seat should act as a piviot and the struts should allow you to go up and back.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bob form NV

Bummer, looked like it would just hinge right at that spot to me. Sorry.

---

Bob,
Yep, the two bolts holding the fender on in the front prevent the fender from pivoting so that why I am adding a spacer to the bottom bolt, no big deal. It's a China bike. Off to get some longer bolts.

I need some decent capacity saddle bags for my DF for tools, rain gear, fix a flat, etc, and hauling stuff. I'm thinking about ammo cans bolted to the back after relocating the turn signals. I still have the trailer for serious hauling and I had the leather bag in the photo below but it went with the 2010 when I sold it plus it was not much in the way of capacity. Anybody got photos of their solution?
Thanks


Attachment 12371

Regarding resale value, any new vehicle will drop in value the day you buy it. That's it and if you don't like that then buy used like I did when I bought my 2001 Kawasaki W650 two years ago.

I paid $2199.99 for my DF the other day delivered so the most I can loose is $2199.99 plus what I put into it which should not be much since I plan to leave it pretty much stock.

New vehicles are not investments. It's a hobby for me. Play the stock market or buy real estate for investments.

Fellow Floridian, Why did you sell your DF at a discount ? "Just edited" "Now" I see you already kind of answered this question.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4950cycle

Fellow Floridian, Why did you sell your DF at a discount ?

---

Because it was used (2010 model) and two years old. Can't expect to get new price for a two year old bike can you? At least I never have. China bike is no different than any other.
I never sold a used vehicle for what I paid for it new. I guess if you bought a 1928 Ford Model A new and kept it fifty years then that would be different.:lol8:

Oh, And I agree with your financial future aspect of the Bobber axa . Not that I agree with the super inflated value of- but these aren't Orange County Choppers. These are just cool Chinese knockoffs of early-mid 20th century motorcycle Americana. But "Oh so Cool" IMHO You can't buy this much M/C Coolness anywhere else for the price. And I'll go with painted/powder coated rims. The Chrome thing has been beat to death since the 50s of the last century for gods sake. I do still like chrome for accents though. Did I over use the word Cool maybe ? :icon10:

Got the longer bolt and now have about an inch clearance after adding the spacer and straightening the fender support rods. Good for now but when the chain wears and needs adjusting probably will have to do something else to gain more space such as chopping the fender and moving the tail light forward a bit. This is a temporary fix until we come up something better.

I did adjust the chain to give it a little slack.

Attachment 12375

Then I drained the oil, added a magnetic drain plug, and filled her with one liter of Shell Rotella 10w40 oil.

Attachment 12376


Then I removed the air injection system, crimped the end of the injection pipe and turned it upside down. I couldn't find any aluminum stock to make a plate.

Relocated the ignition switch to where the injection pump was mounted. I need to remove the tank and get a little more slack in the wiring to the switch to finish mounting it but it is good for now. I'll be removing the tank before long to do the blue/white wire switch since I read here that that is still a problem.

Attachment 12377

Attachment 12378

Next I need to check the valves. Almost ready to fire her up. :clap:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4950cycle

Oh, And I agree with your financial future aspect of the Bobber axa . Not that I agree with the super inflated value of- but these aren't Orange County Choppers. These are just cool Chinese knockoffs of early-mid 20th century motorcycle Americana. But "Oh so Cool" IMHO You can't buy this much M/C Coolness anywhere else for the price. And I'll go with painted/powder coated rims. The Chrome thing has been beat to death since the 50s of the last century for gods sake. I do still like chrome for accents though. Did I over use the word Cool maybe ? :icon10:

---

Heres something else people dont consider, someone off the street may say, "cool bike" id pay $$$ for it, but those are the people who know nothing about bikes and have no interest in buying one...
Ask that same person again after they've actually decided to buy a bike, and you will find they have been researching, been on this site, and know they can have a brand new one for less than one is asking... I just don't get it.
Any expectation of appreciation in value of a china made anything makes no sense to me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barnone

Got the longer bolt and now have about an inch clearance after adding the spacer and straightening the fender support rods. Good for now but when the chain wears and needs adjusting probably will have to do something else to gain more space such as chopping the fender and moving the tail light forward a bit. This is a temporary fix until we come up something better.

I did adjust the chain to give it a little slack.

Attachment 12375

Then I drained the oil, added a magnetic drain plug, and filled her with one liter of Shell Rotella 10w40 oil.

Attachment 12376


Then I removed the air injection system, crimped the end of the injection pipe and turned it upside down. I couldn't find any aluminum stock to make a plate.

Relocated the ignition switch to where the injection pump was mounted. I need to remove the tank and get a little more slack in the wiring to the switch to finish mounting it but it is good for now. I'll be removing the tank before long to do the blue/white wire switch since I read here that that is still a problem.

Attachment 12377

Attachment 12378

Next I need to check the valves. Almost ready to fire her up. :clap:

---

"And on the second day the creator relocated his ignition switch..."
So why might you prefer on moving the switch?
I had noticed also noticed that those pump tabs seemed the same spacing as the switch, but couldn't justify moving it. seems it will make taking the head off a bit harder for valve adjustments.
Do tell...

Just think it looks a little better down lower and tucked in. I will elongate the holes in the switch to be able to use both bolts and turn the switch over when I gain a little more slack in the cable when I have the tank off soon. Does not interfere with the valve adjustment or at least it didn't on my 2010 DF. Can always go back where it was, no big deal.

Off to adjust the valves and fire her up.

Off topic a bit but I bought one of those ethanol gas tester and just used it the first time to test some none ethanol gas I bought for her. 0% ethanol in the fuel, next I will test some up to 10% to see how much it has in it. Just fooling around...

Anyway, please show me that im wrong and point out some real improvements............

Checked the valves on my 2012 and they were a little tight. The tank hold 2 gallons if anyone was wondering. I installed the battery and she fired right up. Then I took her for a ride down the driveway and out on the road and she ran just fine. I forgot how low the stock gearing is so I have a 35 tooth on order. Took the curves and ups and downs here in the mountains with plenty of juice.

Attachment 12380

Attachment 12381

Attachment 12382

Attachment 12383


Attachment 12384

Got her all muddy but that's life in the mountains with the gravel roads.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by freezerboy

Anyway, please show me that im wrong and point out some real improvements............

---

Who is dissing on the 2010's? I had a 2010 and now a 2012 so? So sense getting in a pissing match.

First, my question to Barnone about how he did when selling his first bobber was more to see how selling a Chinese builtbike might compare to selling, say, a Japanese made bike. I've bought and sold over 25 motorcycles, all Japanese, Spanish, English, American, or Indian made (Royal Enfield Bullet), but have never owned a Chinese bike yet. I know how the buying/selling game works. I have dissed no one about their early model Dong Fangs. I think they are cool motorcycles. But, there was a problem with the gas tank mounting system they used. Not every bike leaked, but enough did that there was a problem there. Leaking gas tanks are a big problem, and I will bet that Sunny Powersports (I think they are the importer?) made it known that DF had an important problem there, and that's probably why they made the change. One owner had them send him a warranty tank, installed it, and it also leaked. My personal opinion, and I am allowed to have them, is that I found the original tank and handlebars to look a bit out of place on the bike. Others seem to like them fine. I would pay a bit more to have the newer version, and, that's why I am very interested in Barnone's comments as well. He broke the trail on the first model, and is the only one I know of who will have owned both models, so his comments hold a lot of weight. If I buy one I will not be able to look at one in person, as there are no dealers here, so I have to go by other peoples comments, and this forum has so much good information for everyone.

I need to add a 35 tooth rear sprocket or so to my 2012 DF.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barnone

Who is dissing on the 2010's?

---

Nobody is dissing anything Vince. Since you have owned both now, maybe you can shed some light on this down the road. The only improvement that i can see though is that its a 2012 and not 2 years older. Sorry you misunderstood the edited post.

To those who did not read the post before it was edited, i simply stated my own opinion on my gas tank and that also i have seen the word "improved" used many times when reading about the 2012 model. Yet when they first came out in January other posters here pointed out the slight differences and none appeared to be any kind of improvement at all. The gas tank & way it mounts on my 2010 has absolutely no issues and all. 99% of the problems that you find in this thread related to the 2010 gas tanks was due to owners over-tightening studs when re-installing.

Try not to take it personally, but i do want to know about these improvements.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by birdmove

But, there was a problem with the gas tank mounting system they used. Not every bike leaked, but enough did that there was a problem there.

---

can you provide a link to this info?

Well, I just finished reading this entire thread, and I don't plan to reread it again right now. I don't think there is a "thread search" feature here. There were quite a few owners who had their gas tanks just start leaking. They would remove them and there were photos of the mounting brackets with studs attached, and many were quite unevenly spaced. I don't recall anyone saying there were rubber grommets it mounted on, but could be. The more traditional way to mount a motorcycle gas tank is with 2 "ears" welded to the lower front of the tank, and often a third mounting bracket mounted to the back of a tank. Start your way through this thread and the tank leak will come up pretty quickly. This leak is very much a safety item, as a biker isn't made to become a flaming torch while riding down the road. I hope that yours will be one of the older type tanks that does not leak. I think Barnone can settle the issue of whether the newer tanks have a better mounting system or not by looking at his new bobber. Maybe some of you that had your 2010 model tanks can toss in youe 2 cents here, as I am not an owner, but I know what I read, and seeing the photos I saw here I am not surprised they leaked. BY the way, the shearing of rear sprocket mount bolts is not unique to this bike either. I have seen several references to the same thing happening on the CCW Tha Heist on the Facebook page for that bike. But, for some reason, I have not read this of Tha Missfit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by freezerboy

can you provide a link to this info?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by birdmove

I don't recall anyone saying there were rubber grommets it mounted on, but could be. The more traditional way to mount a motorcycle gas tank is with 2 "ears" welded to the lower front of the tank, and often a third mounting bracket mounted to the back of a tank..

---

That's exactly how mine is mounted, and has been from the start. Of course it has rubber bushings under the studs.

Also when i asked for a link, i thought you had read factual info from an external site. I didn't really mean opinionated info from here. I think most of us here have all read the entire thread now.

I have read here how the tank mount brackets were welded on at an angle on a couple.

Here is what I was reffering to as a traditional tank mount system: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/721-...C-671361463565 2 ears in front welded on and, and a bracket welded on on the rear. The 2010 DF bobber tanks mount photos I've seen here look nothing like this. I am thinking maybe the new model uses a setup more like in this in photo I refer to here?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by birdmove

Here is what I was reffering to as a traditional tank mount system: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/721-...C-671361463565 2 ears in front welded on and, and a bracket welded on on the rear. The 2010 DF bobber tanks mount photos I've seen here look nothing like this. I am thinking maybe the new model uses a setup more like in this in photo I refer to here?

---

Yes the tank has welded ears at 4 points, the 2010 has I believe 2 welded studs.

Done my share of welding, and getting a strong bead a linear ear is much easier and reliable than on a perpendicular stud...

Cranked in the max preload for the seat spring. Might need some helper springs to keep it from bottoming out for my 210 lbs.:lol8:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by axa

Yes the tank has welded ears at 4 points, the 2010 has I believe 2 welded studs.

Done my share of welding, and getting a strong bead a linear ear is much easier and reliable than on a perpendicular stud...

---

The problem with the 2010 tank, was the bracket the stud was attached to was "stick" welded to the tank. Sheet metal is very hard (temp wise) to weld in a hurry.
spot welding might have been a better choice. But to save money and production line speed they chose the faster/cheaper method.

Also, rubber flat washers were used between the bracket/stud and frame.

I did the JB weld fix and blue locktite on stud,before even putting any gasoline in the tank. It never leaked.

Yes, I agree with your second opinion on resale value also axa. I'm a little late in posting, This 8 mile long thread moves right along.

so has any one bothered to check if their wheels are balanced?

I go by feel at higher speeds. If I have a wheel that's humping or bumping I look into it and balance it . I balanced my front wheel with a little bit of thick lead solder wire wrapped around certain spokes. straightens them right out. A little tedious to do sometimes. An easy free spinning rim helps.