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The last motorcycle I replaced the tires on was a 2005 KLR650 Kawasaki dual sport. I got lucky, or maybe the, what we used to call trials universal tires, aren't as critical. I replaced both and test rode the bike up to 70mph or so, with no sign of any balance problems. By the way, I spooned a set of Duro brand tires, which were very reasonable in price, and seemed to handle and wear well.
ya i didnt think it mattered, its such a hard ride i cant see the wheel off balance doing much.
im not sure ive even hit 60 yet, i dont much like riding on the freeways, this aint my NSR, sometimes i feel like the winds just treats me like a parachute ready to blow me over..
i cant see how others do 80
axa,Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
I'll check my rear wheel when I swap out the sprocket. I have a wheel balance & truing stand plus a spoke torque wrench.
Front wheel when ever.
The label on the bike says 40 psi front and rear, is that what you are running?
My seals on the spokes must be good because the tires had plenty of air in them when I uncrated the bike.
I'm off to Houston for a family reunion so will be bike less until next week.
I didn't bother balancing the Distanzia on my XT225 but did do it to my W650 with Distanzias also. The back tire/wheel was way off so I kept moving the tire around the rim to get it close then used some weights on the spokes. The front was just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
I got the sprocket for my ex 2010 DF at http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Motorcycl...?search=JTR279 and I assume the 2012 DF is the same.
I'll know in a week or two as I ordered a 35 tooth from them the other day.
You would have though that the new models would have a bigger rear sprocket but ...
I can go up my steep gravel driveway in second gear on the DF easily but the Ural and W650 both need to be in first gear.:lol8:
Sorry if I dissagree but I did absolutely nothing to my 2010 tank and did not mess with the studs and it started leaking out of the blue at the 9 month ownership mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by freezerboy
I can only go by my own experience but even scooter depot admited to me over the phone that that new tank design was to fix an issue with the original one. He said they dont even make the old one any more for that reason. And I tend to believe them.
Just my two cents.
And just FYI birdmove, there is a thread search option here and it is invaluable on such a big thread.
Thanks, GonzoX. I'll find the thread search feature. I had a 1984 Sportster XLX1000 that sprung a small pinhole leak in the bottom of the tank after only about 2 years. I had bought it new. Must have had a bad coating in the tank, or a bad section of metal. I was able to fix the leak with a rivet. I still think Dong and Sunny Motorsports were risking a big liability judging by the number of gas tank leaks. I'm sure they could have found a way to modify the old tank to make it safer. I would feel better buying the new model after what I read on this forum.
jee, why would you do that? that place sells the sprocket for 28$ plus shipping. you would be paying near 35$Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Even amazon has the jtr279.35 from lots of sellers, i bought from powersports super store and paid $20.24 total, free shipping.
Now you tell me.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
:popcorn:
Whoever Amazon's supplier is, they do not ship to Hawaii. I love Amazon, but??? I had 2 26" bicycle tires shipped to me in separate full size boxes with no freight charges. Many bike tires are shipped all folded up to save space, but these were shipped in full size boxes. Strange.
got some new turn signals and hand levers this week...
first for the hand levers...
i wasnt at all comfortable with how far the hand levers sit out, especially the front brake.
In a game where milliseconds count, these levers sat way too far for my taste.
So after failing to find any info on drop in replacements, i used a little forensics to estimate the closest match i could measure from online pics... the CBR250r
My estimates were not entirely off, but they were no drop in replacement...
On the brake, the pivot hole needed to be relocated as both the hydraulic and light switch plungers fingers were too short.
Moving the lever pivot point further out would allow it to sit closer in...
Putting that in conjunction with a shoulder it could sit on.
I didnt take many pics while in the process, but turned this and milled off a side...
from the bottom after the hole was relocated.
Attachment 12478
And from the top, after the hole also.
Attachment 12477
Attachment 12479
You can see the 2 main purposes.
Here is the installed brake... just needs a coat of paint...
Attachment 12480
As for the clutch, it actually just about fit, i just needed to take down in thickness a few mil... But it didn't sit any closer than the stock lever, which was the point...
So another hole to be relocated, but in this case, not the lever pivot but the lever adjust pivot instead.
Yeah I kind of wish they had recalls on that issue like they do with cars. Every new car I ever bought had issues (Jeep Wranger, PT Cruiser etc) and it was fixed at the manufacturers expense.Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
can you imagine what regulation compliance would do to the price of these things...Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Aye Aye Sir! Understood. And for the price I paid for it I should not complain even though human nature dictates I will LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
I imagine that even if I get the Royal Enfield bike I want it will have similar issues. No bike is perfect as I am seeing on this thread, even the hight dollar ones. Hell even the high end BMW bikes have issues from what I read.
Glad it's my Friday (Sunday for me). Looking forward to riding my bike this week.
When i got the bike, i dumped the grayish looking concoction that was in the engine.
125 miles rolls in seems about time to dump that first batch...
Firstly, I only found 3 specs of metal in the screen, and only 1 shard large and jagged enough to be concerned with, almost a mm wide and long. But I didn't clean the screen when i got the bike so its plausible that the piece had been there since manufacture.
The other 2 were more like splinters...
Ive always rejected magnetic plugs as vehicles with paper filters would negate the value in purchasing a magnetic plug. And other things I've operated with transmissions such as my lathes and were built with such high specs and quality materials, that after first uses wear was negligible.
But to this bike, I did think it a good idea attach a strong neodymium magnet to bottom of the the stock plug, and I did found a notable amount of fine shavings that would have never been caught by the screen.
Only time will tell how long this keeps up, I do suspect even this engine will reach a point of mechanical equilibrium. But for me the conclusion is that it may be worthy to have a magnet plug from the get go, rather than adding one later. But if not, I do presume the loose tolerances on the engine may reduce the potential of wear. These pieces were were very fine.
so when i received the bike i quickly went out to get the replacement oil, and having a rather limited selection locally, I went with Castrol 4T for no other reason than it was motorcycle rated, and that Castrol GTX has been treating my car well for the last 17 years.
At first i found rather hard shifting, but after 100 miles or so i found it worked out so well that not only could i find neutral when stopped, but i actually could float shift!! Not that i normally would do that, but its possibility I believe indicates an optimal transmission.
But unfortunatly at 5.99 + tax, i didn't plan to stay with the 4T...
So I found Castrol had another motorcycle oil thats was 'supposed' take into account higher temps, high revving ATV and off road engines. Sounded appropriate for our bikes, and i could buy in bulk on line.
And since it had the same specs as the 4T, thought id give it a go.
API SERVICE: Exceeds API SG
JASO (T903): JASO MA-2
Only it is also showing hard shifting at first, I really hope it smooths out as the previous did cuz i likely have enough oil for the life of the bike...
So, my quesiton for you all, do you guys also find a breaking period after an oil change??
And who else has found the ability to float shift, and what oil did you use?
I use Rotella T 15w40 conventional or synthetic in all my motorcycles with good success over the years.
Attachment 12510
Also I use it in my diesel tractors, atvs, and utvs.
However, I have no proof that it is better than any other oil. Never have had an oil analysis done on a sample of the oil.
As an aside, my two cars and truck all call for 0w20 oil.
Also I use magnetic drain plugs in all my bikes,cars,tractors, and truck. Nice to see if any metal bits accumulate which usually never happens after a few oil changes. My Ural came with MDPs in the engine, transmission, and final drive from the factory.
Don't know if it is bad for the gears but no float shifting for me, I always use the clutch.
Can you say censorship ,Think I'm outta here. Free speech was cool. I guess that's all History now.
Honestly I looked high and low for Rotella but didnt want to use 15w for a NY winter. They do also have the partly synthetic T5 which is 10w40 also, but by that time the Castrol was working so well I thought I should stick with it, likely a silly reason but that ship has sailed.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
And as I mentioned, not that i would normally or recommend float shifting, it will surely shorten the life of the clutch, but I have found when my vehicle transmissions when working optimally, they tended to float shift more easily... And on this bike Ive found optimal shifting brings with it an easy shift to neutral when even stopped.
Thats the primary reason I was asking.
Really just trying to find the root cause for the neutral problem i suppose
4950cycle,Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
What are you talking about? Did I miss something?
Maybe it's because some of us, like myself, subscribe to the big DF bobber thread, and then don't check in real often to check the new threads here. You'd do better to ask the question on the big thread maybe?
FWIW I used Lucas semi synthetic oil and I have yet to do my first oil change. But shifting is not a problem for me. I will do my first oil change soon and Im sticking to what works. And I will put the magnet in on this oil change. Hell it cant hurt and that is my uneducated opinion as a newb biker. Im just going by what is posted here since this is my first bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
And FWIW my brother has no problem doing speed shifiting on my DF (as he calls it) where he did not bother to use the clutch. But honestly, to me that seems to be a bad thing to do based on my common sense. But on my bike he had no problems doing that FWIW. Go figure.
My bike was showing hard shifting at first. It only took a week of riding to smooth it out. This is not an issue for me regardless of my first oil change FWIW.
Oh come on now. AFAIK nobody is deleting postings. Its just a bunch of guys talking about their bikes. If it gets to that point I dont blame you for leaving but I dont think that is happening here.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
20mg chill pill stat. And start him on an IV LOL.
Like any public forum there will be dissagreements but lets not ruin a goldmine of info about the DF. We need this support in the long run. Worst case would be that I pony up the $$ for an Enfield but Im not giving up on my DF. Its worth more than what most folks would pay me for it here. Sound familliar? If we were in a bar together (and we actually have biker bars here) then we would all be friends and be civil.
Am I right?
So fill up your tanks and let me buy you a shot of Jeager.
Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Im just finding it strange why new oil seems to shift hard...
you seem to indicate it happened, its now happened to me twice... im really curious
Maybe I was just getting paranoid. It seems some of my replies in some different threads disappeared. And no one was giving any feedback on anything I was saying over the last few days. Not that I was saying anything that profound. Just seemed a little odd and ofcourse the missing posts, that's all. Sorry for being hyper sensitive. I'll Live .
A few people have started DF 250 threads; I have suggested to post on the 'original' thread simply because that is what brings people to mychinamoto from Google (those with DF). But I see the point of going over 3000 pages being difficult-I am sure there will be double posts, if not triple, or more by now, so if someone new brings up a question that had been discussed a couple years ago, I bet there are others who would also like an answer. Thanks for sticking around, 4950cycle!
I know this is a very long thread but I agree with culcune. Nice to have all the DF info here even thought there will be repeat post, questions, and answers.Quote:
Originally Posted by culcune
I put in maximum preload in the seat spring on my 2012 DF and that solved the bottoming out over rough bumps for me. I'm thinking I will need a bigger seat like I had on my 2010 DF.
Unfortunately my chain break is in Florida so I ordered another so I could shorten the chain when I go to a 35 tooth rear replacing the 45 tooth stock one. She is topping out at 50 MPH with the 45 tooth one as you all know.
I've been out of town for a while and just got back late this evening but managed to get in a short ride. The filled out COO and bill of sale arrived while I was gone so now I can send off to get a tag and title from Florida now. I'm pretty safe here in the mountains if I stay on gravel or remote roads but don't wanna push my luck.:lol8:
Yeah, 50 mph top end on a 200-250cc is not good. I had a mid 60's Honda Trail 90 when I was about 9, and I know, assuming the speedo was near accurate, that a Trail 80 with my kid sized butt riding it, and me all tucked in, could get about 53-54 mph out of it. A 20 really should be able to cruise at 50-55 without undue trauma.