Steve's CFMoto 650 NK（春风 650 NK）

Btw.. have you just tried to open TPS screw and move it little? if it is still one really long one and then one "long" ? you can move TPS just a little and test if it will turn it off.. then adjust it to position where EFI light will not come on. you don't even need to restart your bike just adjust and flip kill switch to "run" and check results.

then repeat again until you get right position.

I got new ECU and it seems now I cant reset my ECU as it will not "read" full throttle?? had to open TPS screw and twist it so it would not enable EFI light and let me reset ECU , then closed the screw again.

Wald0, I removed that out of curiosity, I guess - wanted to see the assembly and all. Besides, one of the running lights didn't work and I wondered what the reason was. As it turned out, the soldered wires running to it somehow unsoldered themselves... Very lazy engineering going on there.
I'll loosen the TPS' screw and move it around - will see if it works. Thanks for the tip!

P.S.: You gout some wicked police out there!

Hi lads i bought my 650k about a year ago and have had a twin bros exhaust put on, tidy tail and bar end mirrors. I'm looking at how to un-restrict my bike and also how to put on some pod filters? if anyone has any info on how and where to buy aftermarket parts and power accessories from let me know. also what would happen in i put on bigger sprockets?


Attachment 16797

what would happen if I put a bigger spocket on the back !!



Attachment 16800

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stretchy

Hi lads i bought my 650k about a year ago and have had a twin bros exhaust put on, tidy tail and bar end mirrors. I'm looking at how to un-restrict my bike and also how to put on some pod filters? if anyone has any info on how and where to buy aftermarket parts and power accessories from let me know. also what would happen in i put on bigger sprockets?

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If you increase the size of the rear sprocket only you will increase the low/bottom end pick up but sacrifice the top end speed. If you increase the front sprocket only, you'll decrease bottom end pick up but increase top end speed. generally the manufacturer has worked out the optimum sprocket sizes factoring in tyre and rim sizes, gearing ratios (gearbox) etc.

I did run my CF650 with 13t in the front, top speed was about 175km/h what was enough in here Vietnam, I did love it in the city as the acceleration was so much better but then on the big road RPM were little high so did not get so good fuel economy you could go for -1/+1 setup. you can check this webpage -> http://www.gearingcommander.com/
just choose the bike from the list as Kawasaki er6 2009 or so, it will tell you max speeds and much more


ou yeah! I did run my bike with pod filters, you get great intake sounds, but I think it did cost me some torque. It just did not act the way I wanted so in the end I went back to the original airbox.

so in my opinion with cones there are two benefits, sound and the space what you get when you remove the airbox.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wald0

I did run my CF650 with 13t in the front, top speed was about 175km/h what was enough in here Vietnam, I did love it in the city as the acceleration was so much better but then on the big road RPM were little high so did not get so good fuel economy you could go for -1/+1 setup. you can check this webpage -> http://www.gearingcommander.com/
just choose the bike from the list as Kawasaki er6 2009 or so, it will tell you max speeds and much more


ou yeah! I did run my bike with pod filters, you get great intake sounds, but I think it did cost me some torque. It just did not act the way I wanted so in the end I went back to the original airbox.

so in my opinion with cones there are two benefits, sound and the space what you get when you remove the airbox.

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I agree Mate on the pod filters I lost torque also so I paid big bucks for the FMS and got it back big time. It had to go on the dyno though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CFMOTO Brad

I agree Mate on the pod filters I lost torque also so I paid big bucks for the FMS and got it back big time. It had to go on the dyno though

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CORRECTION ON GEARING (regarding this):

"If you increase the size of the rear sprocket only you will increase the low/bottom end pick up but sacrifice the top end speed. If you increase the front sprocket only, you'll decrease bottom end pick up but increase top end speed. generally the manufacturer has worked out the optimum sprocket sizes factoring in tyre and rim sizes, gearing ratios (gearbox) etc."

FACT: Increasing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or decreasing the number of teeth on the front sprocket has exactly the same effect, lower overall gearing - which means more engine rpm for any given road speed.

If the CFMOTO 650 has the same final drive gearing as the Kawasaki ER6n (15-tooth front/ 46 tooth rear), then the final drive gear ratio is 3.066 : 1. If you increase the rear sprocket to 48 teeth and leave the 15-tooth sprocket on the front, the ratio changes to 3.20 : 1. The higher the ratio, the lower the gearing.

If you leave the standard 46-tooth sprocket on the rear and switch to a 14-tooth front sprocket, the final ratio is 3.28 : 1. And if you used a 13-tooth front with the 46 tooth rear, the ratio would be 3.54 : 1

Now, does that 13-tooth sprocket you have also fit the Kawasaki ER6n ????

I think for the pod filters you need to have a dyne and a computer and a program to fine-tune ECU and TPS to work with new air intake. Why I won't do it is because of the climate over here - it gets wet, and when it does, water condenses inside the pod filters. That does influence performance big time.

I spent this winter riding my Benelli Silverblade and addressing the issues that came up in the process. One very important thing that happened this winter was my move from downtown Nanjing to a (cheaper) area uptown. This move yielded me a 10+ km morning commute. Today I did that on my CFMoto 650 NK.
You have to give it to the bike - it started alright, which I was not that sure the case would be. So off I went. My commute includes a relatively free road with few traffic lights, an intense inner-city main road, a few small narrow downtown roads and a parking lot. The bike is a gem on a free open road. It goes, it stops, it makes a nice sound with a stock exhaust and has a diesel-like pull. But that's where the problems start - technically, the speed limit is 60 km/h. I wouldn't want to do more in China anyways. Yet the bike is capable of that in the first gear. So as soon as you're in that juicy rev range, you need to stop yourself from overdoing that. The bike has a lot of potential that is nowhere to realize. I mean, why have 6 gears when two seem to be more than enough?
Next is the inner-city main road: lots of cars, a couple of tunnels, the average speed is about 60-80 km/h. Did I say lots of cars? Well, after negotiating that on a scooter, the big bike feels like a death wish. Reasons: seating position and the character of the bike itself. As to the seating position, it's pretty classic with a slight lean forward and footpegs set a bit rearward. It's great for looking forward and checking the mirrors. As soon as you start actually turning your head to assess the chaos around, it gets real painful real fast. Say, try to raise your head, aha, and now look left - doesn't feel comfortable, does it? That's one.
Another one is the bike itself. It is ROUGH. All caps rough. Nothing wrong with that, and that is probably pretty enjoyable on the track, but city is a different story. Roll-on, pull in the clutch and shift into a lower gear (or a higher one), open the throttle a bit. This is what we do instinctively, and this is what results in a significant "jump" on a 650 NK. Clutch action, fueling, acceleration, deceleration - it is all rough and over-aggressive. I found myself riding with clutch half pulled-in most of the time and keeping a longer distance with the cars ahead just so. It's not a mechanical problem, it's just the way the bike is - aggressive and rough. I would be happy top say I love it that way, yet the truth is - I don't. It requires additional effort from me to take the bike's character into consideration, and I don't think I want it. A 4-cylinder engine is pretty smooth in power delivery, a lower-capacity engine (125 - 250 cc) lacks the guts to intimidate the rider. Now this one is different. Now I understand those people who were willing to buy my bike and would return in to me after a test ride saying something like "too scary!" It scares me not, but that's the feeling the bike may very well invoke. Anyways, I digress.
Narrow city roads, lots of traffic lights, crazy mamas in their Hondas taking their overweight kids to their school and all that. Not comfortable. Zero storage option (NK stands for "naked" after all) means that I have to wear my backpack when riding. That's about 10 kg of stuff. Acceleration / deceleration mean another 10 kg pulling you back or pressing you against the handlebars. That's not a complaint, it's just something you need to be prepared for when using the bike as a city commuter. I installed a set of throw-over bags before, they didn't really look or work well. And the top box wasn't a permanent storage solution either. Anyways, start-stop traffic is bad - the bike is pretty difficult to maneuver at low speeds (it's a heavy 650) and it gets pretty hot real fast. So in summer when the temperature is well above 30 degrees Centigrade, well...
Parking lot now. After about 3 years of owning the bike, the side stand still feels like it's not where it should be. Takes some time to find it - instincts tell you it should be someplace else. Oh yeah, and it's hard to maneuver around as well.
That's a bag of mixed feelings here. On the one hand, the bike is mechanically sound and rides OK. On the other hand it's not a city commuter at all. I would be happy to take it around some place where there aren't so many cars and the weather is cool and the roads are great (read "not China"), but I hate riding it in slow dense dangerous traffic. It's just not the right tool for the job.
The conclusion that comes out of it is: I want to sell the bike and either plate my scooter or buy a legal 250. The problems here are: the license plates price is growing by the minute, and me selling the bike at, say, 40K, won't even buy me the plates half a year later; and then there's no choice. I mean, there's GW 250 and a facelifted YBR 250 that goes by some fancy new index, and that's about it. I would like either something with a retro vibe, like an ST250 or something endure-like, WR250 for example, but there's nothing like that in China. That's really putting me off of selling the bike now.
Decisions-decisions...

[QUOTE=Steve_Halt;74551]I

Hi Steve

This sounds like a classic tale of buying the wrong piece of equipment for the job required.

Take your CFMOTO to Yunnan or Sichaun and enjoy the open road!

The fuelling issue you mention at low speed: we never experienced that in stop-start inner city riding with either the 650NK or the 650TK. In fact, we were highly impressed with the bottom-end fuelling on these bikes - way better than many European machines we have sampled. It seems getting the fuelling correct just off idle is quite a tricky thing.

Now, what is this business about the price of plates? Do you buy a plate for a car or motorcycle in China and then not have to pay an annual license fee? What is the procedure?

There are differences between the Benelli and CFMoto export model versus domestic market machines. The export models from both companies are not exactly the same as the inferior shiet sold here - despite 'us' paying about the same for the privilege when all said and done. A Benelli 600GS or GT as well as the CFMoto 650NK or TR/TK has a similar MSRP inside PRC as they do in most overseas markets - despite the export models being supplied with upgraded/better components e.g. higher spec suspension, brake components etc. Effectively the two local companies could be accused of some WTO violations IMHO.

As for fuelling issues this is something more common with EFI, due to fuel loops/maps built into the ECM/ECU, compounded and influenced by fuel, air, temp as well other factors which all come into play. There is also the advent of ride-by-wire wherein the 'ol throttle cable is replaced by an electric wire or two. As such this might explain why the likes of 'Power Commander's' and 'ECU flashing' e.g ECUnleased etc are anecdotally increasing in popularity. Often applied to remove the low end stumbles off idle or in the lower RPMs that some EFI MC's experience. Add to that the restrictions (catalytic converters) that manufacturers put in place to gain meaningful emissions standards EU-III+ etc.

Not to say that carburettors don't have issues too.

In terms of plating/rego... it is similar to NZ's, albeit far from as user friendly as it is in Godzone. One cannot just simply plate/rego the bike at the dealers with a simple completion of paperwork. PRC is made up of many little kingdo0ms, with every part having slightly/vastly different rules or interpretation of 'the rules'. The whole situation is complex and what I write here is just the simple basics...For starters, insurance, one cannot ordinarily get full comprehensive insurance cover for their vehicle, much less a MC - unless it is a LEGAL BMW, HD, Ducati etc, where the importer or distributor have made an arrangement with one of the Insurance companies - case in point is my BMW GS I bought late last year - I'm able to get full comprehensive insurance through PICC organised nationally through BMW Motorrad China. Otherwise it is a type of compulsory third party insurance which has to paid annually.

In some places it is quite easy and inexpensive to plate vehicles, but some places it is a right farkin PITA. You can forget about simple processes in the middle kingdo0m unless one has some good connections or stumbles across someone with influence.
FWIW ... PRC=the simple/easy things are complicated/difficult, while the complicated/difficult things are simple/easy.

It costs a lot (generally double to sometimes triple) for imported MC/cars in PRC, unless they are sourced from ASEAN countries - hence why MC manufacturers are setting up manufacturing plants in Thailand and India (aside from the lower risk of IP infringement etc.). MC's arriving into PRC from those S.E.A. nations do so at 35-40% above MSRP compared to the 100-200% above MSRP from elsewhere (USA, Japan, Europe). If only NZ manufactured MC's, with the PRC-NZ FTA, such MC's would land in PRC free of duty, instead, PRC offloads its MC's to NZ.

Plating and insuring vehicles and even dealing with inspections (WOF) is anything but straight forward. To plate a car or MC in most jurisdictions in PRC may cost 500-1500 CNY (a one off cost - not to be confused with taxes), but not so in Shanghai (SH) nor Beijing - where supply of motorcycle plates are tightly controlled, and only trade-able on a second hand plate market. For example, in SH car/MC plates are somewhere north or 120-130K CNY (NZ$24-26K) with MC plates more expensive than car plates currently.

For SH car plates, there's a lottery system where all purchasers go through an 'agent' to bid on a finite number of plates released by the SH Government each month, supposedly as a means for the local SH Government to control vehicle numbers. By the same token, the SH Government do not issue motorcycle plates, so anyone looking to buy and rego a MC in SH has to find someone willing to sell a second hand plate which can be traded and sold from one to another. Consequently since MC plates are noy issued - there are a finite number of MC plates in circulation. Added to this is the fact that a SH MC plate can be exchanged via the SH Traffic Management Dept. for a SH car plate, meaning there'd be one less MC plate in circulation - however, SH car plates cannot be exchanged for a MC plate. This is why SH MC plates are so expensive (supply vz demand) - pure capitalism at play here. It is the reason one can find any number of inferiorly constructed 50-150cc MC's with a legal SH plate going for some ridiculous amount of kuai. It's not the MC that has any value - it's the plate, the MC is just a way to park the plate. Plates have to be on a MC.

Here in the Middle Kingdo0m, MC's cannot be ridden on all roads, nor can they be ridden on many of the Expressways (motorways with Tolls). Instead motorcycles are banned from these infrastructure components, including from something like 123-127 cities (forget the number now). MC's are even banned from some sections of Highways (think, NZ or OZ State Highways), so effectively MC are thought of as scrap (a very temporary disposable commodity - mind you it's not like the locals actually think too far ahead). The temporary status of motorcycles used to be the same for cars, though that no longer applies, likely a result of the number of high end luxury brand/model cars plated in ever increasing numbers. Since the changes to the duration that applies has changed, whereby a car simply is required to pass an annual inspection effectively after the sixth year till eternity - the same rule changes might be adopted for MC's too. But this is a LFZ, so no matter I paid three times the cost of my BMW GS here than if I'd bought it in NZ or OZ... I'll be forced to remove it off the road in 11 years time (see below)! I paid significantly less for my XT1200 Super10 in OZ compared with the wee GS

Effectively MC's also are issued plates for a finite period of time in PRC, which is determined by the jurisdiction that the MC is plated in. Roughly the finite period is 9-13 years, usually it's 11 years. Once that anniversary date comes up, the plate is surrendered/taken back (or in the case where a plate can be transferred e.g. SH or BJ, - the plate is sold), and the MC in question cannot be used legally on the road any longer, effectively turning into a scrap commodity or heavy door-stop.

Vehicles including MC's have to undergo inspections - with the duration between inspection differing based on new vehicle versus second hand and how old the vehicle is since new. Different categories of vehicles can also face restrictions e.g. vans, utes (pick-ups), mini-buses, buses and trucks all of which face various restrictions... so MC's aren't the only category singled out.

It's a farkin can of worms... nothing like NZ where buyer and seller simply complete a bit of 'paper work' and send it in to complete plating/rego/insurance or drop into a local Post Office, VTNZ, or other convenient method etc. Nope, in PRC it will take at least half to a full day, and require various visits to different dept. counters, and a pretty good understanding and ability in conversational Mandarin - or co-dependence on a local Mandarin speaker e.g. GF - even then that's no guarantee of a smooth experience.

To say nothing of the driving etiquette of the local population which is to put it mildly or bluntly (take your pick), utter bull faeces. Seriously, the self centred ego centric driving behaviour (actually all behaviour!) is ridiculous. Very few if any local gives a rats arse about any other road user (or anyone else in any capacity - outside of the family structure or some Government official), resulting in a very passive aggressive driving/riding experience. By contrast, my observations of the northern Thailand road user etiquette/driving or road user behaviour trumps PRC by a factor of 1000 IMHO, based on two trips of 2 months duration per trip in both 2014 & 2015. To my mind based on that experience, Thai's actually have a clue about appropriate driving/riding etiquette - at least they have heads on a swivel, and bother to look left, right & behind aside from just straight ahead (straight ahead - is seemingly the only co-ordinated head/eye movement the local population can accomplish in PRC) - and seemingly the Thai's give a shiet! Stopping at intersections, giving way, stopping, merging or moving over to let others pass etc, all totally opposite of the norm in PRC. To ride safe in PRC requires the rider to adopt a very passive aggressive mindset IMO.

Nope PRC is a LFZ (Logic Free Zone) and titled a 'DEVELOPING COUNTRY' for a reason, and deservedly so IMO.

...YMMV

Steve there is nothing bad about the NK. The reason it's hateful (for you) in town is because you've been riding a scooter which has been designed for the job it does and you've gotten used to that bike.

I ride on provincial and mountain rides and I have absolutely no problem using the range of gears including the sixth. Also I have not problem carving city traffic either.

If you bought the bike for city commuting and never even think about going on a provincial road, mountain road, or track you simply bought the wrong bike, and honestly a real ER6 would treat you just as well or badly as the NK. Sure fuelling is snatchy in 1st but it's snatchy on all modern EFI bikes no matter who makes them as they have to run so lean for emissions. That's why I'm waiting for affordable powerful long range capable electric or hybrid motorcycles, because I want a programmable super smooth throttle.

Sounds to be like you'd ideally set up with a 4 cylinder 400 or a 4 cylinder 250. Sadly doubt you can find anything legal in that bracket.

Rewi Alley, see bikerdoc's write-up below - it's a great one!

bikerdoc, man, you have just systematized the chaos - not an easy feat! Great write-up! Actually I never thought that the export models have upgraded components... Any luck getting those aftermarket? Taobao maybe? I am interested!

ZMC888, it's not that hateful, I have had it for a long time and the bike has kind of grown on me. I mean, I took it apart and reassembled it and feel intimately familiar with the machine. I have a set of nice new tires on it and enjoy its character. Indeed, it feels different from a scooter, but it's comparing 2 different classes of vehicles - my write-up is more of an emotional escapade rather than a weighted article :) I would love to have a CB 400 (one of my favorite bikes of all times), unfortunately no luck getting a legal one...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Steve_Halt

Decisions-decisions...

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Knock yourself out - CF Moto NK 150.

Attachment 16922

Jokes aside. Simply, I have not found an appropriate topic for this.

Why do I mention this bike? First, it is CF Moto's NK, but nimble 150 cc, and the second, our local company, "Guevara" is expanding its business to CF Moto range. In addition to the two 650 cc and several ATVs and UTVs, they offer (in fact, at this moment - will offer) this NK 150. So far, they did not came out with the price.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Knock yourself out - CF Moto NK 150.

Jokes aside. Simply, I have not found an appropriate topic for this.

Why do I mention this bike? First, it is CF Moto's NK, but nimble 150 cc, and the second, our local company, "Guevara" is expanding its business to CF Moto range. In addition to the two 650 cc and several ATVs and UTVs, they offer (in fact, at this moment - will offer) this NK 150. So far, they did not came out with the price.

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No joke, the 150NK has been available for sale for a couple of years. CFMoto pushes the model quite hard locally and in some other markets as an entry level bike for the racetrack. The 150NK from October 2014 onwards comes fitted with ABS as standard. MSRP in PRC... 元11980

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Knock yourself out - CF Moto NK 150.

Attachment 16922

Jokes aside. Simply, I have not found an appropriate topic for this.

Why do I mention this bike? First, it is CF Moto's NK, but nimble 150 cc, and the second, our local company, "Guevara" is expanding its business to CF Moto range. In addition to the two 650 cc and several ATVs and UTVs, they offer (in fact, at this moment - will offer) this NK 150. So far, they did not came out with the price.

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Surely you'd be nuts to consider this bike vs a Sundiro Honda CBF150. I agree the 150NK is no ugly bike and is probably fairly good, matter how far CFMOTO have come, surely the price difference (which there is I believe there is none, both bikes are 12,000 yuan as far as I know) the Honda must be a superior bike. I already had a CBF150, it's the most reliable bike I've ever had.

The first time I saw a CFMoto 150 NK for sale in Nanjing was December last year. It is a KTM in non-KTM colors. I like the design and the features, e.g.: inverted forks, ABS, headlight, but I think I'll look a bit big on a bike like that. I'd love to try one out of course!
As for the reliability of a CBF150 - no doubt about that - superb bike!

Can anyone help confirm for me what fuel injection plugs are the same as my 650nk cause I want to put a fuel managment thingo on it from dynojet the one where you can adjust air fuel mix with screwdriver but im not sure if I need the kawasaki er6 plug one or er6n plug one or ex650r plug please help greatly appreciated

Hello daniel5595, unfortunately I can't help you here since I don't know. Yet I am extremely interest in the project and the outcome of it. Please keep me posted somehow!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by daniel5595

Can anyone help confirm for me what fuel injection plugs are the same as my 650nk cause I want to put a fuel managment thingo on it from dynojet the one where you can adjust air fuel mix with screwdriver but im not sure if I need the kawasaki er6 plug one or er6n plug one or ex650r plug please help greatly appreciated

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Many things on the Kawasaki ER6N are the same, some similar, but many are not. The engine and electrics are different so you'd be taking a huge gamble trying Kawasaki injectors as the CFMOTOs are made in China Magnetti Marellis.

Okay but would you know or anyone know what would work with the c motor 650nk injectors

Quote:

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Originally Posted by daniel5595

Okay but would you know or anyone know what would work with the c motor 650nk injectors

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Have a look at the injectors or look online for a part number. They are Magnetti Maraellis so they may well be in other bikes. Not sure exactly what you are trying to do, but the ECU might need to be remapped too. That's a Ducati ECU, so also might be in other bikes.

If you make any progress let us know by making your own thread under 'modifications'.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ZMC888

Have a look at the injectors or look online for a part number. They are Magnetti Maraellis so they may well be in other bikes. Not sure exactly what you are trying to do, but the ECU might need to be remapped too. That's a Ducati ECU, so also might be in other bikes.

If you make any progress let us know by making your own thread under 'modifications'.

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The injectors are Magneti Marelli IWP 156, the unique bike or vehicle that use the same injectors is the MV Agusta Brutale 910, but the ECU in the Agusta is Marelli too and not Ducati. I see the conectors and are like standars.Attachment 17040

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ZMC888

Many things on the Kawasaki ER6N are the same, some similar, but many are not. The engine and electrics are different so you'd be taking a huge gamble trying Kawasaki injectors as the CFMOTOs are made in China Magnetti Marellis.

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They will work.. as they have same "specs", but in order to put PC to CFMoto original injectors you will have to cut the wires and connect them to bikes harness (no problem and it will work..) also! you will need to SWAP powercommander TPS connector wires as they are in wrong order!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by daniel5595

Can anyone help confirm for me what fuel injection plugs are the same as my 650nk cause I want to put a fuel managment thingo on it from dynojet the one where you can adjust air fuel mix with screwdriver but im not sure if I need the kawasaki er6 plug one or er6n plug one or ex650r plug please help greatly appreciated

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Hold on?? what are you trying to install???

also here are the TPS wires ..

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ower+commander

Second is you can't connect ignition part from Dynojet as ECU thinks there is a problem in coils..

Alright, I got to admit, I don't have this good attitude to things. I really don't know where it's coming from, and I know it's bad. Anyways.
My CFMoto was standing there neglected (albeit under a cover) for about 3 months, during which I was riding a bicycle to work and was riding my wife's scoot on weekends.
Yesterday I decided it was the time.
So, the bike started no problem. I warmed it (even though the weather has finally become sort of hot) and was about to take off.
Clutch in, first gear, engine shuts off. Start the engine, clutch in, first gear, engine shuts off. And then 10 more minutes of the same thing.
The bike finally rode though, but was pretty rough, spluttering and coughing for the first 5 km of the ride or so.
Dear people of MCM, does anyone have any idea as to what else I should change on the bike?

I had somewhat similar issues on my JH600, I found it to be the kickstand safety switch. I cut the wires and splice the two together to override the safety switch. Problem solved...just a thought to consider. YMMV

Hi Steve
Does the NK have a side stand cut out switch ??? that's the only thing I can think off the top of my head.

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Originally Posted by Steve_Halt

Alright, I got to admit, I don't have this good attitude to things. I really don't know where it's coming from, and I know it's bad. Anyways.
My CFMoto was standing there neglected (albeit under a cover) for about 3 months, during which I was riding a bicycle to work and was riding my wife's scoot on weekends.
Yesterday I decided it was the time.
So, the bike started no problem. I warmed it (even though the weather has finally become sort of hot) and was about to take off.
Clutch in, first gear, engine shuts off. Start the engine, clutch in, first gear, engine shuts off. And then 10 more minutes of the same thing.
The bike finally rode though, but was pretty rough, spluttering and coughing for the first 5 km of the ride or so.
Dear people of MCM, does anyone have any idea as to what else I should change on the bike?

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First thought that came to mind Steve_Halt (as other post replies) was whether or not you had had the side stand down at the time (easily overlooked) and something you hadn't mentioned. Easy to just have the bike on the side stand, idling away, hop on, momentarily forget about that side stand, clutch in, press down on gear selector pedal, only for the engine to die instantaneously.
If you're adamant or certain the side stand had nothing to do with it, possible for the fuel to go off, water contamination, or clogged fuel filter perhaps.

I'd be inclined to just check under the seat, visually inspect and in behind the cylinder banks of the engine - never know what little animal or such like might have decided your 650NK made a nice new home/habitat.
I've seen where a kitten must-have crawled underneath a car, climb up onto the top of the engine, lay in between the rocker cover, EFI and air filter housing. Assume it must have been attracted to the warm underbelly of the cars engine at some point). Unfortunately kitten was found after the fact (dead), essentially burnt intact to those surfaces (which was not the most pleasant experience having to remove parts of the kitten since different parts of the animal were burnt/bonded onto various surfaces) - when the female car driver/owner complained of an offensive odour.

Might be worth adding some Seafoam or similar petrol treatment, or else a tankful fresh petrol.

YMMV