Did you check your plug color for jetting? Did you check your main jet size? How about the valve adjustment? Like others have reported here, my valves were too tight on my 2012 from the factory.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
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Did you check your plug color for jetting? Did you check your main jet size? How about the valve adjustment? Like others have reported here, my valves were too tight on my 2012 from the factory.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
there it is , a chrome forward facing air intake (poor mans air ram) , air ram only works if filters an open top like stock filter , mine used a radiator hose Attachment 12885Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
It was sponggy yesterday and the handle was almost flush with the handlebar. Ironically it seemed fine today. Go figure but common sense told me that it should be firm no matter what right? Brake fluid does not compress last time I checked. Either way replacement is ordered and it only cost me about $25. Cant complain. If anything I have a replacement if I need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Sounds like you need to bleed and/or change the brake fluid instead of replacing the master cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Also spongy can be caused by moisture in the fluid. I'd change the fluid and bleed it. A Mitivac type device works nice to change and bleed the fluid.
Also a trick I have used in the past is to put some strong rubber bands on the lever overnight to get the last bit of air out. You might want to try that first.
barnone,
Will you be putting on the furry seat cover?
It looks like your tire rubs the fender.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
So far with the bigger seat on my 2012 I don't think I need the furry seat cover but she likes it.:lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Attachment 12901
It is currently on the W650 which needs it.
Attachment 12902
This is a ruff look of what it will look like. It's gonna take lots of grinding.Attachment 12906Attachment 12907Attachment 12906
my tire don't rub , at max extension my car tire is 1/2" off the fender tip
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Hey guys. I tried the stock filter and it made little to no difference on my ride today.. maybe worse but hard to tell. I really have to keep beating on this thing just to keep up with the acceleration of traffic. I know its not a rocket.. but i feel like im dragging something behind me. The engine doesnt seem to break up under throttle.. but it just feels like the brakes are on. To keep up with traffic on a 45 mph road I literally have to keep her full throttle just to manage which is about 45-50 indicated. It really feels like it just doesnt want to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
I have not checked or adjusted the valves. If you could give me some instruction on how to do this, that would be great. Maybe the air/fuel mix is off.. but the engine seems like it is running through the rpms smooth. As I said before 2012 rtb_a.. weight is 140 and the bike is fitted with 35 rear sprocket. Im running stock spark plug (it didnt like my after market replacement), and 93 octane gas. I replaced the stock filter with an aftermarket one that has better filtration.
Here is a sample of the plug. Phone cant really take pictures up close. Looks pretty clean to me. Not really white and over heated from too much air, and not really black from too much fuel.
Where should I go from here?
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7e9e375d.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
This is a sink pipe or a radiator hose? Where did you get the rubber couplings to mount the pipe to the carb?
that's a radiator hose , and it bolted directly to carb/filter with the existing clamps (just measured carb throat n got hose same size)
this is sink pipe , looks like he used radiator hose to attach it to carbhttp://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...achmentid=9325
Good PDF from CCW
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByFv.../edit?hl=en_US
General topic on valve adjusting is here.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?376-QingQi-%28Qlink%29-200GY-Illustrated-Valve-Adjustment&highlight=adjusting+valves
Video for Heist valve adjustment which has almost the same engine as the DF .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbJPIQQDsSM
Also look at videos for CG Honda 125 valve adjustment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Thanks for the links! What did you set your valves at? Do you think that could be part of the problem? Take a look one page back and tell me what you think of the plugs. Thank Barnone
From my ex 2010 bike "Manual and sticker on frame both say .06mm intake and .08mm exhaust."Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...rmation/page13
Better a little loose than too tight.
You need to check your valves ASAP. You can have engine damage if they are tight like mine were.
I had no clearance on mine when I uncrated the bike. Others here have also reported the same lack of clearance on their 2012s. You will suffer power loss if the valves don't close.
Plug looks like you are running too lean to me. I need to check mine as I went up to 108 main jet from my stock 105.
But adjust your valves before you ride any more. Get an experienced friend or independent shop to help you.
Got my _b yesterday. Wrote up a long post about it but the site wouldn't let me submit it. Made me log out then log back in. Of course the post was gone. I'm not rewriting it. I don't know if this will post or not. Anyway, the short version: nice bike, I like it. Thanks for all the info. Adios.
Pushrod,
Living up to your handle with the addition of another push rod motor. Nice and simple which is nice.
Photos when you get the chance, please.
My bike finally came in. I love the look of it. I've gotten most of it setup, can't wait to finish and take it for the test spin!
Dan, does redirecting the intake honestly help and produce any noticeable increase in power?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
i like most of us quickly find this these engines way underpowered and want to do whatever within reason to help it out, but im skeptical about this.
I mean, if this really is effective, why not make a wide mouth funnel shaped intake to do this adequately?
triumph-bsa-amal-930-carb-intake-velocity-stack-long-unit-bobber-chopper-650
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Okay ill check the valves this weekend. your 2012 had a 105 stock? What type of jets do these use because i have a bunch left over from a gy6 motor.
The carburetor is a PZ30 pumper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
axa it helps a little , fresh air better n hot air , and at speed it actually does help a bit as a ram
Then i think i will try it but perhaps with a more of a wide horn type mouth though.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
For i can see the principle applied as the speed increases the forced air flow will exceed the added resistance of a severely bent intake path.
But I cant justify doing this as a attempt to gain power by decreasing the temperature of the air.
Here is what i come up with:
Under no pressure (of course we have average pressure of about 30 milibars) the density of air per foot˛ at say an ambient temp of 70° is 0.075, even if in the back of the engine it is a sweltering 150° (which its not) the density then becomes 0.065
Which is an exaggerated increase of .010, then as oxygen is only about 21% of the air, that figure drops to a relative .002 density of oxygen per foot˛ of air sucked in...
Then as one cubic centimeter is 3.53146667 × 10-5 cubic feet, 229cc engine = roughly .00808730046 cubic feet, it would take roughly 28,316 * 4 engine strokes to pass a single cubic foot.
at say 8000 rpm, that would be 2000 ignitions, so if im not mistaken 14 minutes to pass the air that would increase your oxygen by that squared .002 cubic feet.
I can go on with the calculations of how much energy is produced from this increase in oxygen, and then how that energy translates to movement of an object but i for one am already pretty convinced its entirely negligible.
So in doing this I can only estimate the increase in the volume of air, immensely outweighs any possible benefit of a reduction in temperature.
Perhaps if these intakes were under a closed hood or stiffled otherwise the benefit would multiply, but i just dont see it.
Can anyone suggest other variables that need to be taken into consideration in our set up?
Changed my oil for the second time at 204 miles. I added a magnetic drain plug (MDP) at the first oil change at 1.0 miles when the DF was delivered to me.
This is the amount of swarf that was collected on the MDP. The screen in the oil strainer was clean so the MDP is doing it's job.
BTW, this is typical of the amount of swarf collected on MDPs on almost all my vehicles at the first oil change after the MDP install. The amount decreases as time goes by on all.
alleycat,Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
What jets did you end up with in your DF? Trying to prevent reinventing the wheel.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
So from reading the manual... is it correct in saying that if I loosen the mixture screw it allows more gas into the carb? I brought it out about 2 turns and took it for a ride... hoping this will allow a richer mix. Got it to about 50-55 indicated on a long flat road. Still about 40-45 on any type incline and i blew my new hose. Will be replacing with a plate soon.
Should I try lowering the clip on the needle to raise it one notch? This carb does have an adjustable needle right?
Good read atQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_reje...w_to_rejet.htm
The rejetting sequence
The order which provides the best performance is to change:
1) idle,
2) pilot screw
3) slow or pilot jet
4) main jet
5) the needle
6) accelerator pump (if equipped).
7) read the plug.
If I remember right you need to add washers to raise the needle.
My new df, only 10 miles on her. Attachment 12947
Attachment 12948my DF will do 80 , when the air temp is 45 degree's or so , and struggles to do 70 when its over 100 degree's , so yes temperature of intake air indeed makes a difference
negligable indeed , only a 12-15% speed increase from running colder air , but its the diff from cruising a highway and having to take the access road
I shift into 5th at about 68 indicated my ratio says I should float my valves at 85 , but I cant get but a hair over 80 in perfect yet very cold conditions
bob r u running stock sprocket ? that will make u top out at about 50-55 when your valves start to float making u unable to go faster