Bob and axa,
Yep, I forgot about the clear coat so will not fool with the removing of the stripes and a repaint. Thanks.
Printable View
Bob and axa,
Yep, I forgot about the clear coat so will not fool with the removing of the stripes and a repaint. Thanks.
is it that you haven't turned a wrench before, or is it that you don't even want to?Quote:
Originally Posted by van_tri
I realize you might not yet be aware of this but what putting the handle bars on consists of 4 bolts. And all the forward controls are is 2 much larger bolts.
Then there is the 4 turn signals, but thats it.
And the acid to put in the batter, to be honest i thought this was the hardest part as i tried to pierce all 6 tubes at once.
i dont think its a prerequisite to have worked on a motorcycle, but to have some mechanical inclination is advantageous. Regardless, if you are a sharp cookie, you will figure things out. if your not, you will likely figure it out anyway. this is fairly simple stuff.
but i dont get it. while if i were extremescooters i would have no problem offering to finish the assembly, its 15 minutes of work. But not sure i would introduce the much increased possibility of broken or bent components in shipping the bike finished, which in effect may increasing the possibility of the hassle you are hoping to avoid..
I cant know what the deal with the a phone vs internet order is, pPerhaps Chad can negotiate a better commission on the sale. But if they are asking you NOT to put it on your credit card, then you would be losing the best consumer protection you got going.
Anyway, whatever gets it done for you, if you have convinced them to ship it like that, perhaps you can convince them to knock off on the price too.
As far as I know the DFs are all shipped direct from Sunny Powersports (http://www.sunnymotor.com/wholesale.php) who is the importer and wholesaler and don't even pass through Extreme.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Maybe they got a return that was assembled by the owner?
[QUOTE=axa;61281]is it that you haven't turned a wrench before, or is it that you don't even want to?
I realize you might not yet be aware of this but what putting the handle bars on consists of 4 bolts. And all the forward controls are is 2 much larger bolts.
Then there is the 4 turn signals, but thats it.
And the acid to put in the batter, to be honest i thought this was the hardest part as i tried to pierce all 6 tubes at once.
i dont think its a prerequisite to have worked on a motorcycle, but to have some mechanical inclination is advantageous. Regardless, if you are a sharp cookie, you will figure things out. if your not, you will likely figure it out anyway. this is fairly simple stuff. [QUOTE]
Not at all. I've done suspension work on my Jeep, pads/rotors on my BMW, and light engine work on the wife's van. With bike engines ... I am without a clue. When I originally found this great sight I was "kicking" around the idea of a Kikker and so I was mistakenly under the impression DFs may require the same type assembly. Therefore, I thought some of you motorcycle wrenching pros were ordering your DFs unassembled at great $$ savings (like the Kikkers). I now understand that a "partially" assembled DF is really not a big deal.
I took my air filter off my 2012 DF to see if it was causing my cutting out at high rpm and it was. I can turn 7500 RPM without the air filter and there is no cutting out so I will be looking for a less restrictive one.
It might turn higher RPM but 7500 is plenty for me.:icon10:
though, wouldn't a less restrictive air filter be one that does less filtering..Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
fyi, the reverse air ram works for the same purpose, not sure which one would end up providing less protection though.
also i personally rather do it this way so that when i find or make a nice looking scoop, i can take advantage of a much larger main jet.
And despite what others may say, i find it provides the extra air at any speed ive needed it,
cuz Ive never even approached 70 and it works for fine for me...
So as soon as you put any filter back on your numbers will go back down a bit, currently i wind out at 7k but my analog tach is a piece of crap, don't know if it can be trusted. that said, what do you tend to idle at? Mine says 2k.
Has anyone removed the fork covers? I was looking at the bike today and was thinking about maybe removing them. Seems to look cool on the heist. Not sure though.. I want to make the bike look a little more raw.. but if i take them off.. im going to cut them off with a blade.. so there would be no going back.
In other news.. I caught my jeans on fire today on a ride. I realized at a long red light that my jeans were touching the exhaust.. prob right about were the cat is.. I felt my leg burning.. I looked down and smoke was coming from my leg and I burned a hole right through my jeans.. Im sure the on lookers got a big laugh of me nearly dropping the bike... jumping off it.. and dumping my water botttle down the side of my pants in the middle of the road :P
I went to walgreens today and made this picture up from the ones i took the other day. I got it in a large 20 inch size blown up and it's now hanging on my living room wall (despite the negative reactions from my wife) lol
Post card material wouldnt you say? :p
http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse4541066.jpg
Do we have one inch bars ir 7/8s? Anyone know.
I was thinking some like these maybe to drop the bars down.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universial-M...d9384b&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-2-...06918b&vxp=mtr
want raw, you should have gone with the springer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
get some exhaust pipe wrap. thats a pretty raw look too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
you should probably double check the mount threading also, being you dont have the capability to retap
maybe they are all the same, what do i know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
yea I hated the bars on the springer.. I thought it looked ridiculous. I thought that the RTB_A already had a nice set of bars so I wouldnt need to change them.. just maybe lower them a bit. I figured I would be re tapping the mounts anyway if I find ones I like, but I don't know what diameter our bars are.
I'll try some other filters with more filtering area and see how they do. I was just happy to get rid of the cutting out which I don't remember my 2010 doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
I'll have to check the idle RPM. I have verified my tachometer's accuracy with my Harmonizer.
The bars on the DF's are 7/8". I think the bars are perfect on the 2012 A model.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
I also like the fork gators as they say old school and also protect the fork tubes from getting scratched by rocks,insects,etc.
That catalytic converter creates a very hot spot on the muffler as you have found out twice.
He is asking about the diameter of the handlebars. They are 7/8".Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
So I bought the DF250B_B with the Springer front end. Loved it! Until it broke down 7.5 hours after I got it...
The gear selector linkage snapped at the end of the threads. I can't find any replacement parts in my area bc I live in the US. I need the rod as soon as possible. Any help??
linkage or rod? one guy had that happen ,mentioned in this thread several times , once just recently, and included a link for a new steel to rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbinInTexas
check it out.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post60981
yes he is asking about the handle bars, but ultimatly he is asking about replacing the risers, which are bolted with an unknown threading to the fork header. and by bobs recent report of taking a hack saw to his bike, I assumed he didn't have the means to retap if threads didn't match.but again, what do I knowQuote:
Originally Posted by barnone
What does "Do we have one inch bars ir 7/8s? Anyone know." mean to you?Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
what does me asking the next plausible question mean to you?Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
:sissyfight:
:lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
axa,
My idle is set at 1150 RPM or so. A little low when cold but fine when she warms up. I put the air cleaner back on and the cutting came back at 6.5 k RPM.
Who here owns this bike... it's beautiful
Attachment 13140
yikes, I feel like they sort of tried to steampunk it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
hey, to each their own.
This makes me think my tach is off a bit on the low end.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
BellaCorse is the builder and owner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
His website is http://www.bellacorse.com/
Why? You can adjust your idle lower or higher. I could adjust my idle higher to match yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
sure you could adjust up, but if I adjust down I'd probably have to babysit it while it warms up. I rather be getting ready to go I suppose.
I am a bit surprised you could get that low, perhaps my tach is a bit off.
well i just adjusted down to 1.5-1.75, now i know what to shoot for...
Attachment 13151Attachment 13152Attachment 13153Attachment 13154
I made a rear rack today using some of the angle iron from the DF crate plus some Black Walnut and Cherry that I had in my shop. The old saddle bags are a little big but they were fine on my test ride. Maybe a top box like I have on my Ural? I relocated the rear turn signals to close to the seat.
Attachment 13155
Good news. I got my replacement dipstick today.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
And Im happy to report that it is an exact replacement. Roketa.com told me they didnt know what the heck a DF250RTB was but the part I got from them was an exact copy of the stock one. Cost me $10 plus $10 for shipping but I got it fast so Im not complaining. Their part number is: AGB-38-250-04-11 and they show it as a replacement for a Honda CB-125 1970's era bike.
Hope this will help some folks that need that part. I have no clue how much the drop shippers would charge for this part but at least I didnt have to wait for shipment from China for it so Im happy.