My point is that it is nice to have both hands on the handle bars most of the time.Get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
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My point is that it is nice to have both hands on the handle bars most of the time.Get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
those DNA springers are the same springer on the DF. might need to drill a hole or somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
so your point is that such things gone away due to the reduced safety aspect.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
which in addition to the ride comport, is also why hardtails have gone away, lack of suspension allows the rear tire to leave the ground and get away from you...
Thus no one rides a hardtail if they are concerned with safety, no one has a springer to be safe, it should not come as surprise that the desire for a jockey shift has nothing to do with safety either.
So for me a chain is sort of from the past since I've been on shaft drive for a while now. Last time I ran a chain I used a little squirt can with 10w40. What are yall using for a chain oiler and what sort of oil?
I use a little squirt can with 10w40.
Thanks. Found one at Harbor Freight. Just wasn't sure if a "better" lube had been developed in the last 20 years. Read that some use chainsaw lube.
Its going to be a bit before I have to worry about any sort of shifting...gotta love NY...another 3-5 inches of wet,white,messin up my riding stuff on the ground. My buddy,an old dirt biker from way back,mentioned to me how they used to boil thier chains in oil before installing,and then at intervals after extended use...he couldn't tell me exactly why,it was just what he had learned...any ideas as to why,and,is this-when the time comes,neccesary?
Wet white?They must have finally decided to paint lines on the roads up there. :lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewfinn
I don't know why they boiled chains, but somwhow it just seems reasonable. I sprayed mine with WD40. I will probably use silicon spray the next time unless someone tells me that 10w40 works as well. Thinking that silicon will work well over temp, not attract dust and crap, and possibly not fling like oil.
Attachment 14819
Works for me.
We boil old chains to get them to free up.Once they move,we soak them in oil overnight.Before reinstalling we spray them down with a thin grease,usually lithium.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill
Those who are trying to save us from ourselves say teflon is bad - cancer in rats or something. I don't much care about sick rats, so is this still available?
Google "dupont teflon spray chain lube"Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill
Something about teaching a man to fish...
I just use commercially available chain oil. Once I oil it and ride it, some oil winds up on the back of my t-shirt. Had to throw a way a t-shirt because of this LOL. Which is why another member here a while back suggested a dry lube alternative. Wish I knew that before I bought my can of wet lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill
Not that I think that we need an oil cooler on our DFs but has anyone tried this cooler?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=1589157186
While I was on taobao I looked for a big bore kit and found this one that claims 250 CC but only 67 mm bore.
Cheap enough at $28.10 plus agent fees and shipping.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=15238969020
From Soberlife:
"I need help... have a 2012 donfang mc-d250rtc. My headlights will not function. The running light is on but when i start the bike the headlights do not switch on. the only way I have lights is if i switch on the highbeams... then only the left side comes on...."
He PMed me but maybe someone that has had this problem knows the answer?
Sounds like the low beam is not working.
I'd check the bulb first.
There's something in this forum somewhere about re-pinning some wires in a connector to get the low and high beam to work properly.I would start at the bulb and work my way back to the switch and then to the fuse block.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Attachment 14887
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360834770780...84.m1497.l2649
Max head temp I have seen so far is about 380 F.
Attachment 14888
Also have one on my Ural where I have seen head temp of 422 F.
The temp on both bikes are highest on high speed runs (:lol8:) and go down when idling at a stop.
Supposedly danger temp is 500 F.
I ordered one of the oil coolers off Taobao to try.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=1589157186
Must feel good to be down in FL barnone. It has been cold as heck around here as of late, I mean really for Houston, snow flurry's iceing, and just downright ugly. Haven't been able to ride at all these past couple weeks and it sucks. Hope the weather changes soon.. or I am gonna start the bike in the house and tool around the living room with it.
Even been a little cool here but still ok for riding.
I adjusted the valves and checked the timing on my 2012 DF today. The timing was right on but don't have a way to check the advance amount but it did move when I revved the engine. She still doesn't seem to have the speed of my old 2010. I even tried a 108 main jet but no change in performance.
Later I adjusted the air mixture screw and that seemed to help.
Come on Spring.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/gh...0RTB2.mp4.html
Not new, out of the box, I just listened and read.
Thank you.
Well my brake resavoir finally broke. Sight glass busted open when it was cold. Had a replacement ready:
Attachment 14909
Easy enough fix and I enjoyed riding today since it was almost in the 80s.
Would like to put more money and effort into this bike but every time I want to do that something else comes up like needing surgery etc. Just bought my wife a car also so I told her next year Im getting another bike so since I bought her a car this year I better not hear it next year LOL.
What and where did you get a replacement. I am lookning to replace mine as well.. the sighht glass is cracked an di think I need an upgrade with over 10,000 miles on it. Let me know..if you got pics that would be cool also. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Got an exhaust leak about a two inches from the flange, it is a rusted hole. I am gonna have my bro-in-law weld it closed, and then exhaust wrap the pipe. That should keep it for a while longer.
I got it off ebay for $20. A little smaller than the stock one but it works. Appears to be made in the same factory as original one. I did mess up and get the 8mm mirror mount model though and so I had to order an adapter with the bigger threading to get my mirror on. You can see it in the photo. Also got that off ebay.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Ebay like for one I got is here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251188738493...#ht_1173wt_918
Hope that helps. My exhaust is very rusty. That's something I will deal with in time but Im going to have a pro re-do it with a coating.
Great riding weather here in South West Florida.
Attachment 14910
Out at the Bar None Ranch.
Bar None Ranch LOL. Love it! Too bad your so far away. Otherwise I see beer brats and bbq with a nice community ride. Luckily we do have a biker bar in my town and once I get a 700+cc bike I will probably start hanging out there with my brothers. Good thing about Central TX is we have hills and lots of winding country roads. Come on Summertime!!Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Cool thanks for the info.
Yeah for some reason the exhaust is a bit sketchy as far as the quality of the pipe material. The whole I have just keep getting bigger, which leads me to belive I will just have to replace it, as welding a quick fix may not work. The rust seems to be insode.I see nothing outside that shows how bad it could be. Gonna have to start looking for a replacment soon. I have a patch kit on it now, so I can ride.. but it will not last long I am sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Sadly bowtie, The metal on the Chinese bikes are poor quality. Even on the Indian bikes (Royal Enfield) etc I have read that they have the same problem. My main regret is leaving my Chinese bike in the elements. Rust just loves these bikes. Which is why I will garage my next bike and probably spring for a used Jap bike.
Got a PM from a member and here is my reply. Please correct if needed.
"Get the sprocket from http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-J.../dp/B001AVS74E for a 38 tooth sprocket.
No front sprocket switch required. It stays a 520 chain.
What model DF do you have? The 2010 model came with small jets but the 2012 came with proper jetting.
I increased my 2012 to 108 main over the stock 105 but didn't get any gain in top speed so am going back to the 105. I believe that the low speed is a stock 42 on my 2012.
I replaced the stock air filter with a less restrictive foam one to eliminate the high rpm stutter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-FOAM-A...228eba&vxp=mtr "
I'm still looking for better performance on my 2012. Seems I got 68 MPH GPS on my 2010 but I could be remembering wrong.
I tried a "Racing CDI" which plugged in correctly but the DF would not start with it installed so I sent it back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Perform...6aee7a&vxp=mtr
Anybody tried a different CDI?
Added a clock to my DF to go along with the tachometer and cylinder head temp gauge.
[QUOTE=GonzoX;67591 Good thing about Central TX is we have hills and lots of winding country roads. Come on Summertime!![/QUOTE]
I grew up in Houston and went to the University of Texas in Austin so I know how nice the hill country is for riding and eating real barbecue.