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Got the 38 tooth sprocket and eager to get it in the mail this week. Unfortunately getting 6-10 inches of snow tonight in STL. Was going to jet, but pulled my plug and it was a nice tan color which from all I could find is an indication I'm running fine. I have a late 12 model. Minor issue on cold start and had to cover emissions port on motor with Cleveland's part. Love the bike though.
While you have the sprocket off you might want to replace the studs that hold the sprocket with the Honda ones. I haven't had the problem but some here have had broken studs. I went ahead and changed mine just in case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymrv
Jymrv, I would do what Barnone said. I had issues twice with these studs,If you search this thread for my posts, you will find a post with the part numbers to these posts for honda. They seem to be a big improvement. good luck with your bike, I have had mine for a couple years now, have 10,400 plus miles on it. she is doing fine... as long as you take care of her.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Found what I believe is the part number. 90128-382-670 $4 a bolt or can I get them from a Honda dealer?
Trouble I had around here from Honda was they always seem to want to know the make and year of the bike, and that the part you are buyin go to that particular bike.They never want to sell me anything so I gave up on them. They are a real pain in the a$$ with this correct part crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymrv
Where did you find them for $4 each? I got mine off Ebay but they were more than $4.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymrv
Here is five for $21.75 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Rear-A...93309d&vxp=mtr
Try this place, they have the whole wheel asembly explode view, and I got the new inner wheels bushings from them as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oempa...5fb/rear-wheel
Thanks for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Found them at partzilla.com
$3.31 each with shipping at $6.95. $20.19 total.
I received my 38T sprocket and exhaust wrap. Just waiting on bolts. I'm thinking I won't have to mess with chain lengths as my rear axle is almost all the way forward in the drop outs and the chain is really too tight from the factory. Any thoughts on chain length?
Watch that the rear tire doesn't rub on the wiring for the tail light under the rear fender.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymrv
I had to add a spacer in the front of the fender to rotate it and straighten the support rods to get clearance. Attachment 14971
Attachment 14972
My DF parked next to a MGA coupe being restored in a trailer. Sweet.
Attachment 14973
Swapped sprockets today. Borrowed my dad's motorcycle jack. Worked really well. Man the manufacture torqued everything on so tight. It was a struggle to not round a bolt even with sockets. Everything comes off super easy after the bolts. The snap ring on the hub in front of the sprocket was tough to remove. Ran to store for snap ring plier that did not help. Had to improvise to remove snap ring. Removing the sprocket required a little pounding to remove from hub. Replaced with Honda studs and used a rubber mallet to seat sprocket on hub. Had to shorten chain. Ran to Honda dealer to do this. $20. I thought I had it right, but went a half link short. Back to dealer and bought new 520 chain. Service tech tells me they just grind off head of pin on link to remove them. Would have saved me $20 earlier. Got home and laid out old chain with new and identified links to remove. Broke out the dremmel and cut away. Everything went back together quickly. I will have to modify the rear fender slightly to allow for rear brake electrical wiring. Was able to make do for a test run. I went with a 38T rear. Noticeable difference in shift points. Could easily reach 50mph. I will run a GPS on next ride to verify speed. All in all it is not a hard process. Now that I have done it I think I could do it in 30 min. Going to ride the 38T for awhile. Might go to a 35T for just a little more speed.
Jymrv,
Sounds like you had fun with the sprocket swap. You will probably be fine with the 38T.
Board has been kind of quiet! Here are some pics from my last ride. I have a 38 tooth sprocket sitting on my workbench. I think I'll order an o-ring chain (saw in earlier post) so I can keep my original chain intact just in case I want to go back to the old sprocket. Other than that, bike is running GREAT! 685 miles so far, just putting around the back roads. Too much fun.
Attachment 15001
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Very cool scenic view. I have been putting around a bit as well. Between the good and bad weather days. Mornings around here at 6am.. 42 degrees, afternoon evenings 75 degrees. Gotta bundle in the morning on the way to work, and strip down on the way home. Thankfully I have my saddle bags to carry the goods. Got 10,585 miles on her now.
You are the mileage king of the DFs. I am up to 1800 miles on my 2012 with no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Anybody here have any thoughts on how much gain in power by the below mod?
By SSR22925 on the Heist thread
"The compression ratio on the 167FMM-M is 9-2.1 and will run fine with 87 grade Petrol. If the head is milled .025" it will raise it to 10.5, if there is enough clearance and it is milled .050" it will bump it up 2 full points. Anything above 10.5 and you should run 93 Octane Petrol. At that point you may also want to invest in a variable CDI one with a potentiometer so you can adjust the spark curve if need be to prevent the dreaded sound of engine knock""
On "paper" it would raise the engine output,maybe 5hp.and lower the cc amount. But in practice the push rod length would come into question as well as the valve clearance to the piston.
My Yamaha is 10.1 and about 21hp. Also 249cc's.and with 2 cam chain(s).
Not trying to be a downer but IMHO a 250 is a 250. It's not a HWY bike IMHO.
I have realized that my DF is a good starter bike. And that is exactly what I bought it for. It's light, cheap, and easy to handle and work on but I have reserved myself to buying a bigger bike early next year. In the meantime I will use my DF for what it's good at. A cheap, light no frills bike that puts a smile on your face as a first time MC owner. Im OK with that for now.
Again, not trying to burst anyones bubble. It's a good bike for the money. To me it's a niche bike that fills a purpose. I may even keep it for that purpose once I upgrade.
Attachment 15017
Modified a bicycle trailer by adding pit pike wheels for my DF.
the same SSR22925 that came on to post 2 comments in defense of the indefensible liar Gardo, then disappeared?Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Barnone, SSR22925 is either the mystical Weaver himself, or someone associated with Weaver Rides, whom Gardo often mentioned had the "weaver magic" with absolutely nothing to back it up.
He made claims of "decked" head, but again no details but for this one post.
I made a bunch of posts a while back with evidence I believe discrediting alot of this...
But if you have any faith in this guy that stood by while Gardo claimed his CCW was cruising down the GSP at 90 mph, then by all means give it a try.
I hope it proves true, Id love an excuse to put mine on the mill, easy enough, but i just dont buy any of it
Or you could try a thinner gasket material. I keep a roll of 1/64" felpro karropak just for such a experiment. see any results then we can talk...
1/64" = 0.0156"
I have a new 167FMM head casket that has a steel ring that appears to be 1 mm thick uncompressed.
1 mm = 0.0394"
So using your thin gasket material might give a gain of approximately .020" without milling.
Hmmm
0.015625.01562
try it!Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3045-Gasket/dp/B000CNKUGE
not quite as forgiving on untrue mating surface, though i dont image its a huge problem.
you might try this a bit first if you dont have access to a mill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNdaJs2AkUg
Attachment 15100
Nice ride out to the country yesterday to finish painting the ranch house .
Attachment 15101
Rode the Ural out the other day to continuing the paint job.
Thanks for the tips.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
I met a guy the other day in Naples,FL that has a mill so maybe he will do the job if I get up the nerve to try it. Will be next fall as I am heading to NC for the summer in a few weeks.
Hi there,
I am new to the forum here; and I have been looking to purchase a df250rtb_a for a first bike and its proving difficult finding anyone who has this bike in stock. I was wondering if anyone here has any leads on where to possibly look, or where some of you purchased from? (TIA)
Have you ever attempted the backroads from NC to FL?I had thought about doing it on my V Star,take the scenic route from upstate SC to Clearwater.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
I bought mine from Chad at http://www.extremescooters.biz/250cc...chopper-A.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by Flare106
It came in a crate and was delivered to my cabin outside of Robbinsville,NC. Delivered price was $2199 and I see the price has gone up a bit since last year.
Attachment 15102
Photo shows bike after outer cardboard removed from crate. Assemble was simple however if you have never wrenched on a motorcycle you would probably need help.
I don't know of any retail shops that carry the DF. All of my Chinese bike were bought over the internet and you are pretty much on your own.
I probably would not recommend that someone with no motorcycle experience go for the DF as a first bike. It is a good bike but you might be better off with a used Japanese bike brought from a good dealer.
Not in a long time. I now load my bikes in the back of my truck and in a trailer and just ride I75 from Fort Myers,FL to North of Atlanta and then secondary roads to Robbinsville,NC.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Attachment 15103
Call me Jeb Clampett,:lol8:
Great back roads in Western North Carolina to ride.
:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone