The wall thickness on my GS engine is 1.95mm with 10.5:1 compression and turns 13,000 thanks to aftermarket valve springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
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The wall thickness on my GS engine is 1.95mm with 10.5:1 compression and turns 13,000 thanks to aftermarket valve springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
So I finally got the DF out on its first street ride, and the damn speedometer isn't working. It's getting power, both to the LCD display and to the turn/headlight indicators, but the speedometer needle and odometer aren't working. Any ideas on the possible cause and fix? I checked the wiring from the male-female connector down to the front hub, which I assume is the mechanism for the speedo. Ran out of daylight though, and I'll give it a go in the morning.
Good to know... So if we can get about 8 people together who want to try a 68mm bore for about 350 bucks... I know who to call...:deal:Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
This would be pretty cool. Its a nice looking engine... But one off shipping from China is often a deal breaker as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Let us know if they actually get back to u.
Did you check the speedo cable at both ends?Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody87
I haven't gotten too in-depth with troubleshooting yet, BUT, the cable appears to be an electrical-sensor type and not a mechanical speedo, as one end goes to a 3-wire connector.
Something must have changed.I thought all of them had a cable run to a drive unit on the front wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody87
My 2012 DF's speedometer is a mechanical one with a drive cable. Forget what the one on my 2010 was but it might have digital with an electrical pickup on the front hub like the one Woody is describing.
It is hard to tell from the parts list at http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm...arts_list.html
Found a possible cause. The speedo will work with the engine off, however, when the engine is running the needle won't budge one bit. Clutch adjustment, maybe? I used an electric drill with a flathead bit and was able to spin the hub-drive end up to about 20mph.
Key on, engine nor running, spinning with drill motor and it works. That is weird.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody87
The speedometer did work when you took your driving test,right?
Don't see how the clutch adjustment would have anything to do with it. Coasting at speed on bike with clutch in and speedometer works?
Engine running no work says it has something to do with charging?
ben2go,Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Post 1461.
Looks like we got into his speedometer drive question back in 2011.:lol8: So the 2010 has an electronic speedometer.
12-08-2011, 03:39 PM
The DF has an electronic speedometer with the pickup off the front wheel.
Senior moment.
I think it might be some sort of wiring issue. If I start the bike, and use the killswitch to stop the engine, the speedo still wont register until I unplug the speed sensor cable, or turn the bike off and back on.
ok horde, i need some help finding some push rods for this engine rebuild...
strange enough they are 153mm, 7mm shaft, 6mm ball and i cant find them (yet)
They're not the common 148mm rods, i think those are for the smaller stroke engines.
but i did find this...
http://parts.powersportsbest.com/ind...-36-mc-25.html
$475 is the best price I've ever seen on these 167fmm on the and ive looked ALLOT.
looks like the lifan version on the ccw with the kick stand to boot, wish i had a kick.
Here you go, perhaps stocked in the US..?Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
It seems to have reverse,
but i wouldn't even care if it weren't a bit pricey
http://parts.powersportsbest.com/ind...ke-engine.html
I've found some 300cc ATV engines but they were shaft drive. That one has reverse but looks to be chain drive. Overhead cam? Looks nice for the DF.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Pretty sure it is overhead cam. Dual exhaust valves or just dual exhaust ports.
Attachment 15327
Well guys, I know I am not the all around motorcycle mechanic, but I try.seems my starter was not the problem. here is the scenerio.Maybe someone out there would be able to help me diagnose my problem.
Starter does what it is supposed to do, it turns the gears,trouble is she will not turn over.All i get is a starter whineing and a couple long runs on the starter and she seems to want to catch, but does not.I have spark I checked that. I thought it might be the cut off switch at the bars, feels like it wont let her turn over, but the switch is new, and is in the proper position.I wish I had a kick starter on it, then maybe I could find out for sure what it truly may be.I tried to push her in second gear and jump her, but no luck there either.
Anyone have any clues? I am at a loss at this point.maybe I just need someone to throw out a few questions for me to check out what the answer is.Always better with a second set of eyes so to speak.
Needless to say, i am quite miseable at the moment.I really love riding, and with her down, I am just sucking it big time.
Your engine isn't locked up is it? There should be an access hole on the left side of the outer engine cover where you can find a big nut. You should be able to turn it over with that to make sure it's not locked up.
You say you are getting spark so the engine must be rotating when you use the starter, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
If the starter is causing the engine to rotate why did you try to bump start your bike?
Also why did you get a new starter if the engine was rotating?
Are you are getting fuel in the engine? What does the spark plug look like?
Good point.Attachment 15328Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
Photo of nut birdmove was writing about. If you can turn it with a wrench then check valve adjustment while you are there to check for internal engine problems.
Procedure at https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByFv.../edit?hl=en_US
Bought the starter because that is what i thought it was. Anyway, water under the bridge there. So basically you are saying my timing might be off.makes sense.I just do not understand why it would jump timing.Originally I had started the bike like normal one morning a couple weeks ago. She is a hard start in the cold.She was running and then stalled. When I tried to re-fire her, the problems started..no start.Just a running starter. Thats when i thought the starter went bad.Did not consider it to be a timing issue. I will check all sugested at this point tomorrow. To dark now.
It could be that you might have a valve clearance problem. If you have a valve stuck open, it's not going to start. If you have a valve stuck closed it's not going to run. If you remove the valve cover, and that plug on the left side of the engine, you can turn the engine over with a socket and socket wrench and you can check the clearances, and you'll be able to see the valves opening and closing. If it's a little hard to turn over, you can remove the spark plug, and it'll be much easier. You can verify if it has compression, you can just remove the spark plug, put your thumb over the spark plug hole, and spin the engine with the starter. It should blow your thumb off the spark plug hole.
bowtiewagon,
Please answer the questions if you want help.
I don't know enough about your problem to say it is a timing problem.
So the engine rotates and you are getting spark, right?
You checked the spark plug and it looks ok?
You are getting fuel into the cylinder by seeing a wet spark plug?
A timing light would verify that you are getting spark at the right time.
I would do what birdmove suggested using the valve adjust link from Pit I provided as a guide.
Sounds like a stuck valve or possible a broken part in the valve train that's not allowing the valves to open properly.It wouldn't be the first time I have heard of a clone engine doing that.
O.k. guys.
status is this.
Although stuck at work right now I am leaving shortly to check the things you have suggested so far.
But, what I know right now. I get spark.Plug looks good, if I run the starter for long period (30 seconds)it feels like it is trying to catch. rotation is occuring from what I can tell by looking at the crank after taking the cover off.
Gonna pull the Vavle cover when I get home first, check for issues. All I can say at this point.
O.K. I changed the plug, i changed out the fuel line, and she is getting spark and fuel.She actually started. And I rode her around the block. But when i shut her off..I find that it does it again.It whines the starter up I hold the ignotion, she sputters a little then she starts. Then i shut her down, and start her again. She starts.I did this six times or so, then it did it again, whines the starter and nothing. Feel like she want to start. I did notice a sputter like it hits a dead spot or somthing like that. Then the whining begins.
For the record, I pulled the rocker cover, did top dead center, and checked eveything, and nothing seems out of place.
So why is she so intermittent with the start?
The studs for my bags came in today so I installed them right after work.
Maybe crap in the tank blocking the petcock(fuel valve) from flowing properly.Maybe the carb float height is to low.That's all I can think of right off.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
occam's razor
first clean out the entire path.
fuel lines as you did, fuel filter, likely not the case if there is fuel in the bowl,
make sure the float moves freely.
make sure the pilot is not clogged, and then the main...
clean the plug well, then see if its getting dirty gassed
head cover comes off easy, take it off and watch the valves go up and down as you manually crack it.
By the way, the head gasket is a typical multi layer metal one, with no sealant used i seen, i think it can likely be reused if you ever want to take a look inside the chamber...
not that im recommending this
Havent postd or rode in a while. Did today. I miss riding.
For the record, this thread is not dead. There is so much info here that most of us are using the search engine to find what we need. Most often it is already here so no need to post the same questions.
For example. I need a seat cover. And I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for one. So I will search it out. My main problem right now is rust rust rust. I kick myself for not making room in my garage for the DF. Now Im paying for it. Cant afford a bigger bike for a year or more so Im gonna have to invest some money into the DF. And honestly, after riding some bigger bikes of friends and family I am starting to appreciate the lightweight and simple construction of the DF.
But the main rust is on the spokes, the rear gear wheel and a bit on the engine gear box. Rubber seat is falling apart as well. Always something. Seems Ebay wants a tone of money for a seat cover for a BMW or Ural which IIRC is what size I need for this bike.
Anyway, Good to see some old timers still in here helping people.