I am gonna do the next step and clean the carb out. I think my issues lay beneath its cover. Just out of curiaosity, I may want to replace the carb.. what are the spec on the factory one? Or anyone else change theirs out and where di you get it.
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I am gonna do the next step and clean the carb out. I think my issues lay beneath its cover. Just out of curiaosity, I may want to replace the carb.. what are the spec on the factory one? Or anyone else change theirs out and where di you get it.
The pilot jets, on the motorcycles and scooters I've worked on, seem to plug the easiest. Let us know what you find in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
slow down.
Dont believe the hype you might read on the ccw thread, there are NO direct swap replacement carbs for this engine. and as far as ive found, the pz30 is not the bottle neck in the system and Ive not yet found evidence that this engine would benefit from more delivery.
Also, I dont know what you like to do with the money, but you are not likely in need of a new carb.
Remove it, dismantle it, clean it well, or at least the jets, and you will be fine unless you find something damaged or broken.... then even a rebuild kit can be had.
this engine is simple, and just be glad this one below is my engine, and not yours.
Attachment 15364
Finally I have just confirmed our motor in the dong fang RTB is a LONCIN and not Zongshen as i thought.
I did this by finding the parts diagram on the DongFang site finding the part number of the push rods im looking for and googling lead me to the Loncin site....
check out this new DongFang offering:
http://www.df-motor.com/product_show.asp?id=702
something tells me I could bob the hell out of that...
AXA I am a budget rider, if I do not need to spend the money I will not, so yeah you are correct.gonna hold off on buying anything until I figure this one out.I already made the mistake of purchasing a new starter for no appernt reason. Just jumped the gun a bit I guess. Gonna clean the carb, check for fuel intake, and go from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
DF250RTB parts manual that axa referred to is at
http://www.df-motor.com/MLC/Parts%20...0RTB(2014).pdf
Pulled out the engine and began to split the case in order to fish out the rest of the blown pieces.
I really didn't want to split the case open as I can't bear to have yet a third vehicle entirely down for long...
So I got the bright idea to turn the crankcase upside down and manually work it back and forth; sure enough the first bits of piston fell out.
Flip, check, still locking up, repeat, larger bits of piston.
And again, low and behold on the third cycle, out comes the missing exhaust valve!
Finally the engine turns free as i ran it counter clockwise connected to a hand drill...
No lock, no more bits, slapped it back together and put it back in the bike...
When I was in there i noticed 2 things, chain driving the oil pump is way loose only after 1000 miles (if it were ever tight to begin with). Lose chains wear way faster than they otherwise should. This is a shame on an otherwise tight engine.
Second the part marked "Rotor assy of filter" in that manual linked just prior, on my bike had extreme run out.
It is a cast part. It would take a special tool to get at the retaining nut deep inside its bell hosing, and if were not soooo out of true and had such thin walls, i would at least have tried to get it off to true it on the lathe...
This is the only part i found in the clultch case out of balance, there may be more inside the crank case, but all machined parts I found were pretty well made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
ya thats it. riddled with errors... they should just take a copy of the Loncin version.
put the Dong Fang shipping cage to use...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-M...it?usp=sharing
welded an engine hoist!
My DF is a better here in Western North Carolina on the two lane roads than in flat Florida with the higher speed roads. Think I will leave her here in WNC and be happy with her stock performance.
So this is page 500. I've read at least 350 if these pages, with a pretty solid collection of bookmarks. I've had a few victories with the things learned, but always seem to find a way NOT to enjoy my bike. I can only get 30mph max on my df, I changed to a 38t and speedometer marks 35mph now. Not sure if that's actual gain of speed though. I opened up the carburetor to clean and inspect my jets. I have a Dec 2010 model, so jets are 105/40. I figured, well at least I know I can easily install new bigger jets. I put the bike back together, she has a hard time starting but after a while she cranks up. I get ready to go on a slow cruise the next day, she cranks right up and by the time I got my helmet on she died out. Now she won't start at all.
There's fuel going into the carb just fine. But when I squeeze the accelerator with no air filter on fuel does not squirt out anywhere except for the sides of the carb. I've now taken the carb apart several times to check if I missed something, didn't tighten all the screws, etc. She's just not starting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drgnsghost
These are CV carbs.They don't squirt gas like an automotive carb.If there is no vacuum from the engine running,there's no fuel being sucked trough the carb.It's starting to sound like your valves need to be adjusted or the valve timing chain has jumped a tooth.
Wish I knew what any of that stuff was. Lol. I'm new to bikes which may explain the hard time I'm having. I posted some videos if it helps. Watch "Df carb" on YouTube
Df carb: http://youtu.be/Gz7MyMU1IUkWatch "Starting bike" on YouTube
Starting bike: http://youtu.be/ukbF5Y805aM
I'm guessing this is what might need to be done?http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...justing+valves
There is an accelerator pump on the DF carb that will squirt gas when you twist the throttle.
Valve adjustment
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByFv.../edit?hl=en_US
Carb tuning Note DF carb is PZ30 like the PZ26
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...CAEBURETOR.pdf
Oh yeah.I forgot these have pumper carbs not standard CV carbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
just wondering guys, can the transmission be a factor in the bike not starting? I mean The starter rotates both reduction gears, but I cannot seem to get the motor itself to rotate?. I pulled the intake off I can see directly into the head and the intake valve.When i turn the crank by hand the valve moves, but when i try to do it with the starter nothing moves. I noticed in the parts diagrams there is a gear called the Starting Ratchet. Would that be an issue? I am at my wits end here with why it will not start.
Gets plenty of gas, has spark valves work , not frozen, hand turns no problem, will not turn with starter. Also my next question, can i take the crankcase cover off and not disrupt anything inside, or is it all connected to the cover?
Sounds like the starter clutch which is referred to as a starting ratchet.I'm not sure how they work in these little motors.I've had hem give up in bigger Jap bikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
O.K> so next question is, can the crankcase houseing/transmission cover come off without disrupting anything...like parts falling out.I have never taken anything that far apart on this bike, and do not want like a lump of parts on the floor just cause I took the cover off.
Looks like my battery just needed charging. Soon as I charged and reconnected the battery, she started right up. Although now the engine is revving extremely high. Turning the air/fuel mix screws didn't help, so I'll be doing more reading on how to adjust the valves like you guys said. Most of the posts I've read say it's pretty easy, just nervous cause I'm new to bikes and mechanics.
Thanks for the help!
Make sure the slide valve is installed properly in the carburetor. Take the air cleaner off and see it the slide valve is closed. If it is wide open then that is the cause of the high RPM.Quote:
Originally Posted by drgnsghost
Page 6 of http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...CAEBURETOR.pdf
what do you mean "housing/transmission" cover? the transmission's clutch cover, stator cover, crank bolt access cover?Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Ive found at least on my bike without any leaks, only 1000 miles, and clean, I could remove the head cover, head, cylinder without any problem to reassemble. Meaning no parts fall out, and even the gaskets would likely be reusable as there use no adhesives...
At that point you get a bit more view of the starter reduction gear line
I will take pics tonight. Basically it is the left side cover on the motor,just in front of the drive gear the chain is attatched to,that is around the crank bolt.Which also houses the internal gears for the starter reduction gears.
:riding: Sorry to hijack and/or get off topic, but 501 pages! Who knew among the majority of all the expats living and working in China, and all the Europeans from various countries, seemingly mainly the UK, this thread about a bobber with a cult-following would be the longest thread with the most views :clap:...and not on Chinariders.net which is North American based, while this bike seems to only be available in the US!? Ok, back to normal...:gun_bandana:
culcune,
Yep, kinda funny. Why is the DF250RTB not sold in other countries? There is supposedly a DF125RTB which would not be made for the US market since we don't have the 125cc restriction like the UK. It is a pretty decent quality bike. My 2012 was only $2199 delivered to my cabin in WNC.
http://www.df-motor.com/product.asp
DF needs to build a DF400RTB which would really sell well in the USA. Keep it air cooled and simple and inexpensive.
Attachment 15413
It looks like this guy put a Iron Head Hog in a DF250RTB-B then a 400cc engine should not be too much of a problem.
It would be a great little ride with, say, the Lifan 250cc v-twin (which is a copy of the Yamaha V Star 250 engine). Now I started thinking about putting different engines into the DF frame. The engine from the Buell Blast comes to mind. A 500 single based on the Sportster engine. I rode a Blast, and the one I rode had no problem hitting 80mph stock (the statute of limitations has run out on that crime). Or, what about the nice 650 single from the Suzuki Savage/S40?
Sounds nice in theory, but then you get the savage (or any other of these engines you mention) and try to fit in the DF frame, you realize its nearly as much work to fit the engine to the DF as it would be just to fit a hardtail to the savage...Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
Both DF front and rear engin mounts need to be moved/modified, The down tube also has to be moved and modded.
so that's exactly what i did... hardtailed the savage
Attachment 15415
on the savage
Attachment 15416
Now if at the time I had another bike to ride, and my DF engine had already blown, it just have done the swap... but still i doubt it.
Its a hard decision to take 2 perfectly working bike off the road today, to have 1 in the future.
Though if you just happen to have a motor sitting around from a otherwise dead bike, then perhaps you can do it over the winter and waste nothing...
Some motorcycles.the starter clutch drive gears can fall out when the charge rotor side cover is removed.I haven't been inside a DF motor so I can't say how the starter clutch is driven.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Woody87,
Still having that sputtering at 20 MPH in 1st gear?
I started getting it with my 2012 DF at about 4K RPM. Turns out I left out the spring clip that holds the needle down in the carb. Must have happened when I was removing the shims under the needle.
My next step was going to be replacing the entire carb with this Keihin (?) PZ30 pumper for $35.99 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181230460483...84.m1497.l2649
This carb looks identical to the Sheng Way PZ30 I have on my TMEC 200 enduro. The Chinese are not very original with their carbs! :lol8: