And woe are the trouble that burden the worlds fastest...
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So I've just completed measuring the actual displacement of a stock 167fmm...
I used a liquid volume method using compressor oil.
Measuring the piston contribution was the most difficult part.
It was difficult sealing the depression it created in the molding compound to get an accurate measure before it started to leak...
But i would estimate I'm within 3 %err.
Anyone care to take a guess what our actual compression ratio is?
Anyone else??
Lets make it interesting.... first correct guess gets 50% off an axa decked head....
not that this guess is wrong.. maybe, maybe not... :naughty:
speaking of which, im curious to know who might be interested in getting their heads worked?
i suppose it would be a matter of how much it would cost and how much performance gains could be expected...
but im not so sure who is willing to go through the trouble...
i mean, i could have done this along time ago, but never bothered until i blew up the engine...
Bummed out today.
Turns out my new head came with a bent exhaust valve.
Valve would hardly open so i couldn't even slip it out of the valve guide.
Taking it apart revealed the valve stem was not only bent, but it wiggled a bit in the guide.
Removing the springs and keepers show rash on top of the stem so it was likely dropped when they were installing the springs... but they said 'fuck it' , assembled it and sold it anyway... nice.
Now i will have to fight with this F rated company with the BBB, to get a replacement...
The cylinder also arrived all banged up on the top, with one major dent on the edge of the cylinder. It was so bad that if the piston reached that far it wouldn't have let the piston to pass. good thing the cylinder has 2mm piston edge to deck height and this deformation was only half that deep.
Besides which, the surface needs to be machined as not only its nicked up, but some of these will interfere with the seal. That and the RA (cut finish/smoothness) is so bad itself that it wouldn't likely maintain a seal.
I can machine most of this this stuff out out, but the common joe wont be able to.
Its proving hard to find parts as it is, let alone ones that dont arrive useless...
I used to work on big freight hauling trucks for many years. WE had ordered 3 rebuilt cylinder heads for for a Cummins inline 6. I pulled one out of the box and found a valve keeper missing. If someone would have installed that head and not noticed, it would most certainly have dropped a valve right quick. I'd take photos of that thing and get ready to email them. I've seen a lot of piss poor new parts, and rebuilt too. Like parts from the oldest of the two US motorcycle makers. Parts that make you wonder if a blind monkey might be doing the quality control work. It ain't only Dong Fang.
This will anger some, but here goes.
It's pretty simple, really, but probably to late to fix. Our special interest reps at all levels of government have whored themseves out to almost any bidder. They're not even escorts. They have become $20 street ho's. NAFTA is an on-going example of that - one that destroyed our countries economy with "outsourcing." China now makes almost everything and China now sets the quality standards for the world. Repeal NAFTA. Force our elected officials to maintain ethical and financial standards. Problem solved. As a side note: I have a buddy who had to sell his American-made Victory to make the $800/mo Obamacare premiums. Yes, he had coverage before.
anyone with a infrared thermometer (and running bike of course) care to get there engine nice and hot and take some readings for me??
Im looking for the following in order to best guess the max CR i can go with.
- Ambient temperature (current temp)
- hottest temperature found on the engine/ where it was found
As i mention we got time as i have to ship these new parts back to have them replaced, so any help is appreciated.
Hi, who are the manufacturers of the Cleveland bobbers in china
you mean who ASSEMBLES the CCW bikes in china.
its a lifan 167FMM engine, the rest is really negligible... rims, tires, brake, bearings, and all components come from a variety of actual manufactures. Perhaps they bend and weld up the frame, though I doubt it...
why not ask CCW directly, no doubt they will insist they make it themselves, in their own factory, with American workers none the less.. :jerkoff:
I tend to believe that the Dong Fang came first and the Heist was just a custom by CCW to charge more for it. Plus I was looking into them this past week before I got mine back on the road.
The Heist is not offered anymore from CCW. You have to go alternate methods to get one now.
Your not kidding there, I checked a place that sells parts for the heist, and they want like almost $300 for an exhaust pipe. My jaw dropped when I saw that. So I looked on other sites and you can pick up just about anything for this bike if you look hard enough. And a great prices..at least i think so.
hydrualic brake switch didn't fit :p
need a threaded post about an inch longer
The price is higher, but for those who wanted the security of a local dealer or who did not want to mess with the mechicanical side of ownership, it did offer a viable option, so I can't fault their business plan. Their advertising was, to me, not completly honest. And doesn't someone over on Tha Heist forum hold the land-speed record for this series?
I was refering to the CCW Tha Heist and their "dealer network" as a reason for some to justify the higher purchase price of Tha Heist. There is a risk factor when you effectively become the dealer/warranty/repair shop by buying direct as we did the DF, so I do understand why there are those who would prefer the CCW rout and the higher price.
Ya that was the flake GARDO, but his record was revoked when it was proved he was measuring his speed by invoking a shortcut through a worm hole in the 5th dimension, to yield a 90MHP 167FMM.
The title now belongs to our very own dan here; but i suspect his speedometer is also utilizing some sort of time-space altering mechanism as theorized by quantum mechanics and string theory...
70 in a 250cc isn't unheard of axa , u guys just havent geared high enough , just looked only c 1/2 my front sprocket , but looks like a 17 , but if I recall rear may be 33 not 35
AND I ordered a 30 (didn't fit) because im still capped by valve float at near 75 ( very occasionally ) but if you refuse to gear for perfect conditions you will NEVER get any faster
ur gearing 13-45 stock , most u only drop a 35 rear of which adds 12% speed boost , my front alone gave me a 40% + my 18% from rear over stock , that's why my 4rth gear is as fast as your 5th
55cap stock + ur 12% = just over 60 , add 15 front adds nuther 20% , letting u near 70 when valves start floating
50 + my 58% = 80 (my stock speed started lower cause smaller rear tire , since added slighty larger rear)
and I wil ride to san anton or Houston to go for aride to prove it
be4 I dumped her I was reaching 80 perfect conditions ,but speedo read 10% fast , have since added a 10% larger front tire and regularly cruise at 60 (which is my 4th gear to 5th gear shift) engine purring and up to 75 engine screaming perfect conditions
ok dan, soon enough i will have a ported, polished, back cut. 3 angle seat, decked head. honed and cross hatched, .2 over bore, treated cylinder, all with a static 10.5CR.... then at least i will know for sure what is the approximate limits of this engine's power.
But right now i severely doubt i will ever see close to 80mph in any condition, for there will not be enough power produced to overcome the wind resistances at highway speeds, let alone a the resistance of a fat under-inflated car tire, and game of thrones back rest... Unless of course i find myself riding along side Schroedinger cat in his parallel universe...
but apparently you can, so what can i say...
ps, this is a a 229cc not 250, and not just any 250cc, a OHV push rod with all its valve train mass.
that right there is a world of difference with a true 250cc water cooled OHC engine can produce... a world of difference.
Dan, The only thing that matters to me is how fast mine will go and I think with the set up I have, 60mph might be it, but I don't know cause I ride her in town only and have never had enough free space to get her to top end. Mine has only upgraded ignition, a Mikuni VM series carb, and I think a 30 rear sprocket. You have gotten most of your top end with gear changes? I am interested in knowing how that tall gearing performs in day to day riding. I would think that you spend a lot of time in the lower gears or lugging the engine. There is fixed amount of power in any engine, of course, so compromises have to be made to get that high top speed. Is it still fun to ride? Motorcycles are like girls. If you don't mind riding a cheap one, you can afford a couple.
Axa, I've never ridden mine at anything over 55mph, but I'm pretty sure she hit 80 in the the crate on the way from LA to TX. Some of those long haul trucks go pretty quick on the interstate.
Change in topic. I think I saw our bike on a Chinese website for $800 each in a container of 10 minimum. I would never want to deal with the import and shipping paperwork, but the CCW thing and our interest in a better engine make me wonder if it would be practical to special order some that had what we want in a motor? It seems to have worked for CCW for a while at least. Guess it would be a "Big Dong"
Seems that the subscription notification here has not been working for me so I am behind in keeping up with the news.
Looks to me that CCW is still selling the Heist.
Last year a local Cherokee Indian and I thought about ordering a container load of DFs to sell at his shop but he ran into problems with the tribe with his business so nothing came of it.
Attachment 15614
I have the 14mm TTO cylinder head temperature gauge (CHT) on my DF and also on my Ural. I see maximum temps of about 400 F on the DF and 425 F on the Ural on high speed (:lol8:) runs and long steep grades where the load on the engine is the greatest. These temps are measured under the spark plug at the head. As an aside the temp drops when either bike is idling at a stop light.
500 F is suppose to be a rule of thumb dangerous cylinder head temperature. I also have a infrared temp meter and the CHT is the highest temp place on my bikes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech-T...a6b575&vxp=mtr
Attachment 15615
I get higher CHT on my Ural.