Ok I'll keep my posts directed to the engine... Sry
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Ok I'll keep my posts directed to the engine... Sry
it is not the same frame and is an completely different type of bike. And don't call me a dick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmanleylancaster
Take you garbage posts some where else.
I'll start a new thread for you.
I made one in classifieds section.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Two mini chopper threads already exist here in Street. That is where you should be spending your time.
Please put Cmanleylancaster on ignore and don't quote his posts.
Those threads are old and bare if any info, this bike has same engine, so I'm here for performance mods...Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
If you want performance,you're looking at the wrong bike.If you're after speed,I doubt you'll get there.If you do,it will be slow to get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmanleylancaster
Oh,and if you read through this thread,you will see that Barnone has pioneered a lot of the mods on these bikes.I followed him over from chinariders.com,where he helped pioneer mods on some other china bikes.So be careful with the aggressive language.He's probably one of the reasons these bikes are still being imported due to sells.
Sorry for the hijack, Hey I'm getting a little sick of this Bobber going through batteries. Has anybody ever figured out where the parasitic draw is on this bike ? I bought 3 batts in the last year and a half. Whats up with this bike ? I hear this is not unheard of with these bikes.
I'm not aware of a parasitic draw on the DF. Have you tested to verify this draw? Place an ammeter in series with the disconnected positive battery wire to test for a current. Ignition switch off of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
What replacement batteries are you buying?
The OEM batteries on my ex 2010 and current 2012 only lasted a year or so but the replacement batteries have been fine.
I use this expensive battery but have had luck with Walmart batteries on my other bikes.
http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...09A2-BS12.html
I enlarge the openings on the battery box to make it easier to connect the leads and reduce the possible of shorting out the positive lead.
I have only had to replace my battery twice in three years. I use the bike alot.. so milage is more likely the factor. Plus it being in the elements cause I ride rain or shine( have no choice sometimes..weather is crazy around here in Houston.Rains on one side of the road and not the other..) I use walmart batteries and have always been reliable.
So multiple alibaba.com companies have offered me my bike for $380. Now I'm really thinking of going to China to buy a few in person, come back and sell the extras on ebay or craigslist. What do you guys think?
OK
no problem then. Must be getting crappy batt after crappy batt then. .
$380 ! No wonder these bikes need "EVERYTHING" modified or improved. My main pet peeve is them sending them over here with the goofy tractor gearing that you have to immediately change (=$) as soon as you get the bike. And I like 520 chain, not minibike sprockets and chain on my bike. So it wasn't easy for me.
What all did you change? I'm sure I'll want to upgrade mine ASAP...Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
Already picked out LEDs and headlight and more...
I already typed the long list then this site logged me out so I lost it. Also had to type everything at least twice . Because this site won't take the info I'm typing for some reason. Ofcourse this time its working fine but I don't have all day to do it again.
Did you do any testing for a current draw? You could have a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
Yes I did. But I'm not quite sure I did it right. So I will have to do it with different tester. It showed no draw. But the mutimeter I was using was more the AC /home construction type meter. I'd feel more comfortable with one of those little yellow multimeters from Haborfrieght. Just keep forgetting my coupon to get a free one. lol
even if hes sometimes a grumpy old man, barnone should get admin rights to this thread.
it'd be half the size.
now back to the RTB
new top end is baking in oven as we speak...
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-Mh...p=docslist_api
a nice cross hatch...
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-Mh...p=docslist_api
new heads parts can be found but they are barely the quality of the OEM loncin.
castings are super rough, they will need to be ported even if you don't want to port.
push rod openings in the head are undersized and needed to be bored larger.
they come with nearly no cylinder home and cross hatch.
and there is no one selling replacement rods... I hadn't found a single vender regardless of location...
and ugly gray paint to boot ...
it's a full week of work including paint...
I decked this head out a full point for a 10:1 compression ratio...
what can I say I'm a pioneer...
now let the problems begin.
but I've bought a couple extras just in case I blow this one up as well.
by the way , I've got the old cylinder in the lathe now, boring it one over.
I just wanted to try out my home made boring bar, but if I get time down the road I'll look to cut a custom 68mm piece.
quite the challenge I think.
what's wrong with what ever that meter is u describe.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4950cycle
no joke that yellow HF is as bottom of the barrel as they come. mine sits broken on my desk.
I'd go with the red one first. that one still works for me.
and I'd try it in the store before I leave...
Painted her satin black.
Attachment 15759
Attachment 15758
I just mounted one of the cylinder heads I have acquired, I found the mounting head cylinder bolt holes up to ¼ inch out of place... but I relocated the holes...
thing is I apparently didn't do it exact so when mounting needed to leave out the cylinder to head mounting bushings to get it to fit.
These are 3 metal inserts that slip over 3 of the head bolts and fit precisely on to each half of the cylinder and head making sure it's in the correct position and centered...
point is it should be know that if you blow up your engine you won't be able to find proper replacement parts for this loncin version of the 167fmm...
and unless you ate a machinist, you might well be shit out of luck.
trouble is that all these parts are all made differently and every one who sells them has no idea what they are selling,..
and in the end I could not find drop in replacement parts, so I recken you just might be better off replacing the entire engine
if I did it again I would never buy this bike or any with a clone Chinese engine.
it's a crap shoot....
So I've cleaned out my pilot jet, and now I'm getting ready to re-install it. I took out the mixture screw, and have forgotten the order in which the washer/o-ring and spring should go in. Does someone know the correct install order for this?
Also, would someone be able to post photos of their clutch adjustment, as in a photo of the clutch cable (engine side) and the clutch lever/adjustment nut? This would help me greatly by giving me a reference point. Thanks!
So, one may have to buy a new engine if yours needs any major engine work? That's a big drawback.
axa,
Did you use this for part numbers?
http://www.df-motor.com/MLC/Parts%20...TB-B(2014).pdf
909 939 3064
626 498 1298
dongfangmotorinc@gmail.com
CRT@nbchariot.com
I called that number, about a dozen times, months ago. not only do they not pick up the phone but don't return message they receive.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
furthermore as I mentioned, unless you go to a full service retailer, don't expect that Chinese part venders will even try to do any sort of cross referencing of part numbers. there are no resources for this.
they can't just pick up the doorman book and find all the manufacture numbers.
And the ones that will even try are 3 times the price, but still your not guaranteed a compatible part.
they will have only their internal part numbers, none will have blue prints or diagrams, they will send you measurements in imperial when you know the parts are I'm metric.
and then when you you have have asked all the relative questions, you realize you didn't ask about the cylinder outer sleeve diameter or the push rod through chamber positions.
besides... I've still not found a single vender for new rods...
how I got a set entirely lucky and unconventional..
on this thread I estimate up to 20 owners have come through,
2 dead engines.. neither which have been repaired. while not scientific, a10% failure ratio is a shitty reliability number.
I don't think its anything we didnt already know, but when you buy a Chinese bike and it working for you, then you tend to forget the reputation; until it doesn't work for you any more...
that's what I've found...Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove
Introducing the worlds first 167FMM with a 10+ compression ratio...
slapped it together this weekend, it started right up!
i was actually rather anxious given all the crap it put me through.
did a few short bursts on the street, i like what its showing, but time will tell if it pulls any better...
Attachment 15772
the paint job looks sharp with the shaved fins.
vht flame proof satin coat over rustoleum high temp semi gloss black.
took the rest of the paint and did the carb and exhaust...
Looking good!
axa,
That engine looks great.
So where did you get the parts?
As an aside, I got one of the "racing CDI" installed and it appears to have raised the top rpm by 800 or more. The engine sounds better with it installed. Higher top speed like my old 2010 DF.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250908061794...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I'll have to ride a good bit to the four lane to get a good test. No level straight roads around here which is one reason why I am here in the mountains.:lol8:
thanks, i have various parts, from dealers online, and ebay, ultimately they might have came from the same company... hard to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
but all of the heads were wrong.
im sure someone sells the proper head but i haven't found it...
So does this advanced/delay timing at all? adjustable??
This is extremely interesting indeed.
ive always been under the assertion that a spark is a spark and an explosion is an explosion...
there always is the very possibility that cheap/thin wire in the oem ignition...
now the timing... that for sure is a variable...
so what is your top rpm now?