that would be the sum of the node...
its ur bike, indeed ur right to do anything or nothing at all...
though it might be interesting to know if ur R/R is harming ur nice new li fe battery....
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that would be the sum of the node...
its ur bike, indeed ur right to do anything or nothing at all...
though it might be interesting to know if ur R/R is harming ur nice new li fe battery....
moving the headlight to the 12 circuit is likely a fine option, especially if you have a list fe battery and need to warm it up on a cooker day.Quote:
Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN
but I wouldn't call it the way it should be, I for one kind of like the smaller parking lights only when it's not running. and doing it that way will put that much more of a strain on the battery when it starts to age as it will be drawing on the battery while trying to turn over the engine. unless you install another switch online or something.
can't say for sure yet, but I'd the R/R would work right, there might be any problem with the electrical system to bring with
actually I didn't notice that, just tried to use the df stuff before to no avail..Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
anyway that's for the considerations...
, anyone know if I'd be able to clean out the screen without draining any oil? leaning the bike or otherwise?
You mean the Oil window? I had it solved in my qj250. I drove 100km, and then stand the MC in the direction of this window. The hot Oil make the job.
Silly question?
Where i can buy df 125/250 bobber in Europe. Can me someone give a tip?
ben,Quote:
Originally Posted by beniamin82
axa is talking about the oil strainer aka the filter.
Not a silly question . One of the members has a DF125RTB in England. Don't know about the DF250RTB being available in Poland.
You could contact
http://nbchariot.gmc.globalmarket.co...e-2550067.html
I guess you could lean the bike over and remove the oil strainer without spilling too much oil and gasoline but why? It only holds a liter or so of oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
id simply like to check it more often without draining and thus wasting oil..Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Are you getting a lot of metal in the strainer? Usually I don't have any since I use a magnetic drain plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Get very little fuzz of metal on the MDP. Have MDPs in all my vehicles.
not at all. just after dropping a piston and valve in to the transmission, for a while it may be wise to check often.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
I sure appreciate the higher compression each day i do the long incline to work..
At the top this morning while still on the incline i read 60 indicated, im sure that never happened before.
i do have much more trouble starting even when its merely cool, like 15°C. choke doesn't seem to help much.
And when it just starts cold, its seems very labored with a very slow idle that gets much faster as it warms... i didn't notice this much difference cold to warm previously.
The starting will likely be helped with fix charging/new battery.
i really wish i had access to a dyno, id love to know exactly the power gained from stock to deck really was. in theory it should only have been 3 or 4%... I didnt expect to feel any of that, but the effects on holding speed is quite noticeable.
Same here. Autozone battery is on it's two year mark now and is still good to go. I did post a model number for the battery a while back and even posted pictures. Had to mod my battery box a bit though. And for the record, my bike is dead in the water if I disconnect the battery. Found that out the hard way.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Never changed my exhaust gasket but the bolts rattled lose one day and I had to locktight them back. Not something you want coming lose.
Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Still looking for a stupid seat cover for my 2010. Cant find one that fits.
ya apparently it is a DC CDI, you will need to have either the battery or voltage from the regulator to charge the coil cap.
I didn't notice exactly what was hooked up when I was testing my charging circuit. leave either the battery or the regulator it will charge the cap
my battery is surely going and may be gone, I'm looking at the "battery tender" BTL09A120C.
Though it seems to me like a real generic Chinese attempt/version/knock-off the Shorai lithium iron phosphate.
Seems to gets decent reviews , but this like many things is something that really needs to be reviewed a year or two later...
Never disconnected my battery and tried to run the DF but did jump start my long gone 2010 DF and it ran with a almost dead battery. Several of my other Chinese bikes have kick started and run with a almost dead battery. The DF should have a kick starter like all my other bikes including the Kawasaki W650.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
The new 2015 Yamaha SR400 is kick start only. I wouldn't want that.
BTW, I always mod the battery box by cutting away some of the box around the terminal access areas to make it easier to work on and reduce the chance of grounding the positive lead.
did u miss me ? Im back , a girl friends man left her in middle of night I had to go "rescue her" , here 2 months later , my sprockets still wobbling , size washer ID ?
Dan,Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
I wondered what happened to you. How sure what "a girl friends man left her" means or what it has to do a wobbling sprocket but welcome back.
my sprocket started wobbling , or I noticed it , the day she called balling , not fixed or rode since
votage regulator and turn signal relay from http://www.scooterparts4less.com/
Found replacement rear sprocket studs.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...6&d=1341715023
Honda Part number 90128-382-670 made in Japan.
Source - Ebay
bent your shift rod ? http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html
horn bracket as well as a reflector bracket broke for seemingly no reason (rewelded reflector , replaced horn with 1 from Oreilies autoparts (car horn))
sprocket - http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Motorcycl...?search=JTR279 - 520 chain - most seem to go for 36 tooth 38 if your heavy or riding in really hilly conditions , myself (175 lbs) I use a 428 chain 17/36 (17 front wont fit with 520 chain) (15/30 16/33 520 equivalant) (80+ mph indicated perfect conditions) but you MUST HAVE jetting and air ram and keep valve adjustments very close and keep flapping clothing (drag) to a minimum or you will never see the top of 5th
- and remember max horsepower (between 10-15) is produced @ 2/3rds max RPM's unlike overhead cam motors and then it drops off SHARPLY , gear accordingly , you need not reach max rpm's in 5th if you can hold your desired cruise speed at 1/2-2/3 rpm's , which also increases fuel economy and manages heat better
air injector delete
dimming headlight problem, really easy to unplug the blue and white wire from the dark green wire and plug it into the other blue and white wire like it should have been been in the first place. now my light switch works and my lights don't dim
upjet http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post41593
magnetic drain plug - http://www.oldbikebarn.com/BikeMaste...AG-12MM-ALU-BM
LED tail light ( buy and install new socket/bulb )
I went to auto parts store and bought a radiator hose (used the air filter for sizing) with a 180 degree bend in it cut it to only have the U shape bolted it to the carb the other end to the air filter , now I have a forward facing air intake out in the air stream - aka poormans air ram ( no real effect untill past 50 indicated )
new battery (have to chop into steel battery box to get new 1 to fit) from autozone
HAVE A HUGE PROBLEM!!!!!!
Filled up the tank and started. Holy s--t full RPM, couldn't get to the kill switch fast enough.
pulled the needle seat didnt ya :P
wide open throttle is caused by re-inserting the carb tube (with needle in it) so dont seat fully . I did that myself
look at it the cutout has to be facing the rear wheel , and it will let it seat deeper , stopping that WOT on start
valve adjust - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...wZDM3&hl=en_US = compression stroke = both valves fully raised
chain roller - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-CHAIN-RO...009836&vxp=mtr
55/65 watt sealed beam headlight that fits - its a , Sylvania H5006 , and the Wiring harness to go with it , fit inside the existing headlamp shell
all right I believe thats everything fairly relivant to the DF's for the most part (just thought I would mash all upgrade repairs together into 1 compact area) - most are from what others have found im just jamming em into 1 post
from my saved page
I was filled with guilt and thought dan got warped in to the 5th dimension along with gardo, cuz I asked him to film that video doing 80.
phew... though I'm still waiting for that vid...
Dan,
Good post on updates and maintenance for the DFs.
I used this magnetic drain plug at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
on my latest Chinese bike.
so , sprocket washer size ?
oh ya my rear brake switch also went out : \
OK, guys, I need advice:
I went out this morning, and all I get when I push the starter is a clicking (solenoid?) noise. Here are the details:
1. About 1,200 miles on the bike.
2. Battery is about 15 months old. It is the original battery.
3. Last rode the bike one week ago. Seemed to start fine.
4. I put the charger on the battery, and it says it's charged.
5. I put the multitester on the battery, and it is reading about 12.5 volts.
Everything I've read on this forum says the original batteries are crap. I am thinking of replacing it before I do anything else. I've read about guys picking one up at walmart, auto-zone or ordering one online. Is this something i really can get at walmart? Do you think trying the battery first is the way to go?
I appreciate the advice.....
Nick,
Battery terminal bolts tight?
If jump starting your DF works then your battery is probably bad.
You should be able to take your old battery to somewhere that sells batteries and match it up.
If you want to know if this problem is casued by battery you can start the engine with car battery with start cables.
I had the same issue in my 156FMI engine.
The battery has power to start the selenoid, but when the starter Rotor consume energy the battery has not enough power to hold the selenoid on. Then is the selenoid of and the Power is back. It repeats constantly.
I have a 200cc enduro, but the DF are singles, so similar engines; on my TMEC 200, under the seat, is a relay which I have had to replace on my old bike a couple times (not on my new bike).
I am not sure how they laid out your chopper vs. enduro, but look at this catalog and scroll to page 21/22. The item you are looking for is labeled as #1 in the diagram on page 21. On the plus side, I think you have a kick starter on your bike if you did need to order a new part, and sometimes the connectors (labeled as #s 11,12,13 and 15 on the same diagram) get loose and just need tightening (has happened a few times with my bike). If they are loose, simply tighten them down, and try to start it. Obviously, if that works, you are good to go. Or simply order a new relay, and then you will be good to go.
Here is the parts catalog with diagram I referred to: http://www.atv4usa.com/catalogs/TMEC200-1.pdf
If you do need a battery, try these guys--I got a gel-celled battery from them for my old TMEC and still use it on my new bike: http://www.t-motorsports.com/batteries/?sort=priceasc
The only catch is all their batteries are labeled for mainstream brands, so you will have to physically measure yours and also compare model names as printed on the side of your battery This might be the one http://www.t-motorsports.com/ytx5l-b...e-gel-battery/ from these guys http://www.t-motorsports.com/batteries/?sort=priceasc
OK Guys, with the DF battery out, I hooked up the battery from my honda accord, and the cycle started right up. Just for sh*ts and giggles, I re-hooked up the DF battery to the jumper cables, and it made the same clicking noise. So, I will be off to auto-zone to try and find a new battery!
Thanks Barnone, beniamin82 and culcune for your advice/help. I really appreciate it.
U will need to chop the battery box to accomidate the new batt termnals - I had same issue full voltage , but not enough amps to drive the starter
got mine autozone
Autozone here too. I had to chop the left side of the battery box to accommodate the vent tube on that side of the battery. I used my dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut a half-inch square opening for the vent. I think you're right though, a little more room for the terminals would be nice.
it starts like a champ now...
I had to reconstruct the battery box as well, but I bought my battery at walmart. A little less pricey, and still brand name stuff. But always remember to give it a full charge on the trickle before installing.
Going on 12,487 miles on the OD.
How do I delete a post?