so at idle or cruise the oil at the dip stick doesn't fluctuates much? limited usefulness I suppose.
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so at idle or cruise the oil at the dip stick doesn't fluctuates much? limited usefulness I suppose.
Not much difference. I guess if something went wrong the the temp would go way up. I was curious to see what the oil temp was on my W650 and am also curious to see what it is on the DF. I think you want the oil temp to be about 100 C or 212 F to remove the moisture out of the oil by converting it to vapor and and thus allowing it to exit via the crankcase vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Hey guys, I am new to this forum and I am thinking about purchasing a 2010 RTB 250 with about 2,000 miles on it and I was just wondering if these bikes experience a lot of problems? I have read a few reviews about the bike saying the motors are not very reliable so I was just wondering what problems any of you have experienced? Any feed back on the bike would be great. I'm hoping to get it for around 1,700.
Go back and read through this thread and take all posts with a grain of salt.
Would you consider 2000 miles to be a lot for one of these bikes?
No. One guy here has over 10,000 on his. Seriously, go back and read through the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keller_1
No.Just make sure you are ready to do your own repair work.There are no dealers around that works on them.Parts are usually easy to get from ebay or other websites that sell Chinese motorcycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keller_1
I am currently reading through all of the pages of this forum but I am planning on picking the bike up this coming Sunday and I was just wondering if anyone could tell me some problems they have had that would prevent the bike from being rideable? Specifically any problems that have happened after the first couple thousand miles?
The 2010 DFs had a bad tank design which would leak if the mounting nuts were tightened too much. Some here replaced the tank.
They were jetted too lean which was easy to fix and the stock rear sprocket was a 45 tooth (like the 2012 DF) and needed to be changed to a 35 or so.
A lot of the problems in this thread were owner induced.
Like ben2go said you need to be able to turn a wrench or forget about buying a Chinese bike.
Is the bike you are buying in decent unbutchered shape?
They are under powered so don't expect cruising over 55 MPH.
Attachment 17072
This is the bike I am hoping to get. It looks like it is in good condition and it would be my first bike. Im not looking to go fast I mostly want it for just cruising around town. I work on my car a lot so I feel pretty confident that I can figure out how to fix any small issues. Thanks for the help.
^^^^^^
Looks good from a distance. Check under the tank for leaks.
IMHO maybe not the best idea for a first bike. Probably be better off with a used small Japanese bike that you can get worked on if needed.
Don't let the low price lead you somewhere you shouldn't go.
Again IMHO, $1700 is too much. That is used Japanese bike money. You can buy a new improved 2012 DF250RTB for a bit more.
yep though the issue with a Japanese bike is that it don't look like a dongfang!Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
I just saw a 2010 without an engine go for 1000 or less... I just saw an engine go for 180,
and that's in NY where prices tend to be high.
if your buying from a dealer they usually won't budge.
if u are getting it from a reputable dealer I'd be surprised, but then ask for some kind of fender to fender warranty in writing, you won't get it, then you can start negotiating.
A shady dealer and your on your own from the get go.
Private sale, educate the guy that used doesn't mean classic.
Check this out fans.
http://sinecycles.com/
Been waiting for this time of year. Have not really had a chance to ride, April showers and all. Got to ride this morning to work, and looks like a clear week and weekend.
Bike is dirty though, I need to give it a bath this week.
I would also like to know if anyone has an idea where to get a replacement shift linkage. Been on ebay, and all I see are these billet items, and they are NOT my style. Just want a simple replacement. Heard someone back a few years ago actually made himself one, if I remember the post right. Wondering if he is still on here, and has a how to for us. I would rather do that honestly.
At the moment it is working, but has a bit too much play in it, and it is a bit worn. 14000 some odd miles it has lasted. can't complain. just want to replace it, before I am riding and it drops on me.
Got any ideas let me know. Thanks.
Which part of the shift linkage is worn? Just the rod?Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html
kinda most of it. I am not sure the correct part names, but the rod seems to be the only thing in fair shape. Threads on one of the adjustments is stripped, the swivel pieces(lack of knowing what they are called) are in weak condition. I have a lot of play in everything.Looking to replace the whole kit-n-kaboodle Problem i am seeing with many offering online is they only offer a certain part and not the whole assembly.
Not a lot of help but if you go down to F-17 and F-18 in the parts list below you can get the parts names and numbers.
http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm...arts_list.html
Also from Dong Fang China
http://www.df-motor.com/MLC/Parts%20...%282014%29.pdf
Probably gonna have to rig it up by yourself.
How about a jockey shift with clutch lever?Attachment 17096
http://233customs.blogspot.com/
Attachment 17097
hope this doesnt start a flame war but...Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
i love the jockey shit, but the one i put on the right side lasted about 3 days.
Leaving the clutch in place i thought it as 'safe' as could be done.
But the springer in combination with the hardtail I deem just too unsafe.
Even when i slightly take my hand off to adjust the choke then hit the smallest bumps, my heart jumps. anyone with the springer might tell you its a hard ride compared to shocks. And pulling my hand that far away from the handlebar just made me cringe.
imho, its not for a daily driver, and then only for the long open road.
but i think its pretty kewl.
i know what you mean, when i understood less than i do know i thought i needed new shift linkage and couldnt find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
first confirm there isnt a problem with the transmission and the spline itself has play...
that said, i can imagine that ball part will get worn, the other side is a bit more simple, but i can see it getting a bit worn as well.
its hard to find a sure replacement, here is something cheap you might get use out of
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Univeral-Dir...-/201124097079
for a Harley
one thing to be mindful of is that one of the threads on your bike is left handed, a linkage doesn't need it to be but that allows you to make adjustments with the bar attached and in place...
look at dirtbike parts, they are similar, find a bike with a transmission spline the same diameter as ours, then look at the replacement parts...
No flame war.:lol8:
The DF250RTB-A does not seem to have the same handling issue as the DF250RTB-B.
So I believe I found part of the issue why my 250Rtb-B wont achieve speeds over 45 mph. I cannot shift into 5th gear when it is running. No problems getting to 4th, very smooth. But there is nothing there after 4th gear when riding down the road. I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts on what could be wrong? And what possible fixes can be made
You mean all this time the highest gear you have been running is 4th gear?Quote:
Originally Posted by heist222
Can you shift in 5th gear when the engine is not running? Probably not your problem but the first thing is to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted.
Do you have a friend that is knowledge about motorcycle? Ask him or her to ride you bike and count the number of shifts.
1st gear to 2nd gear is shift #1, 2nd gear to 3rd gear is shift #2, 3rd gear to 4th gear is shift #3, 4th gear to 5th gear is shift #4.
Neutral is between 1st and 2nd gear.
If the person can't get the bike into 5th gear and the clutch cable is properly adjusted then there is probably transmission damage.
How a transmission works at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EMI...ature=youtu.be
Heist222 the first gear is down from neutral, but i think this basic information you have already...
never know... on my first bike, I kept adding 2 stroke oil to the transmission until finally it stopped shifting.Quote:
Originally Posted by beniamin82
:lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
heist222,
Any reply would be appreciated.
Wow I was worried for a moment, did not see the site, was getting all kinds of domain expired and sight no longer available screen when I clicked on it. Glad to see it is still here.This is the lifeblood to my bike.
If not for this place I would have been lost with a few repairs.
Anyway, hope someone else chimes in to keep the thread alive.
By the way, still looking for a replacement for my shift linkage. Have not been able to locate anything yet. May have to resort to making something myself.
turns out it would be a good idea to run a higher octane fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
i was having some issues at full throttle/under heavier loads i couldn't diagnose.
first there was engine surges.
then i noticed a high frequency clicking, first thought was valve lash, but that didnt make sense as it didn't kick in until said conditions.
but i dismissed all this as i thought it must be the sound of my keys and little shopping loyalty cards flapping in the wind and dismissed it.
maybe a few days later i stalled out during a full throttle incline, i then concluded that since i was low on gas and moving at a good clip up an incline, i must have been starved for gas.
sat a few seconds then started right back up. and again dismissed it...
got gas the next day but again on the way home stalled out agian, sat a few seconds started right back up and proceeded home cautiously. Now i knew there must be something wrong.
got home and couldn't start the bike again... thought it must be a blocked jet...
proceeded to drain and clean the carb but found no problems...
It wouldn't start but i noticed it was sure turning over easy.
pulled the plug and noticed very little compression... engine needed to come apart.
head cover off first check valves. sure enough, the exhaust was so tight it was keeping the chamber open, adjusted valves, reassembled, started right back up...
thought that would be the end of the story but that tight valve seemed to be the effect, rather than the root problem...
Now if you follow my story you might know i have steel rods, so with a lower expansion rate, it didn't really make sense that there would be such a large change in the valve train.
but with everything looking fine i took the bike to work. 2 miles in the head gasket blew...
now this was really odd as it blew on the cooler intake side no more than an inch from the intake itself. got it home and proceeded to take the engine apart.
first thing noticed was the head bolts were not at all tight...
This turns out to be my 1st rookie mistake.
after rebuild out re-torqued is required after the engine heats up one or more times.
i took the head off to check for damage, specifically for any sign of detonation/pre-ignition... lucky no damage but the gasket itself.
but this revealed my 2nd rookie mistake. as it turns out that high frequency clicking was in fact the signs of pre ignition or detonation. the anit knock sensor all new car have is actually just a tiny microphone that listens for a 6400hz ping, the tell take sign of pre ignition/detonation.
With the head off i inspected my work, revealed my 3rd rookie mistake. as the intake valve is the larger it comes closer to the edge of the combustion chamber. and as the head has a round cavity milled to clear the valves as they close, when i shaved the head down i ended up making a sharp edge at this valve clearance than it was previously. i missed reliving it when doing the head work. i knew nothing of hotspots. and sure enough this is exactly where the gasket failed.
so in summary i created a hot spot in the combustion chamber that was helping the low octane fuel ignite at the worst times...
i thought running 87 would be fine. but depending on which chart you look, a 10:1 engine requires at least 92 octane... and now i believe i know why.
But im sure looking forward to seeing even better performance when my new gasket arrives...
As you know(and others may not) higher octane fuel burns slower and with less heat. No power advantage unless timing and compression are increased.
I use 94 octane, no ethanol fuel only because of the low mileage I do and the 2 year shelf life.
On the plus side... My chrome single wall pipes do NOT blue and 84.5 miles per gallon.
My engine is 10:1 compression,but the mfg. recommends 87 octane.
Good luck with your repairs...
Made it to mountains of Western North Carolina where there are curves and elevation changes. :clap:
After several days of mowing, weed eating, and fixing things I got to ride some bikes today.
First was up to the Dragon and breakfast with the boys at Deal's Gap Resort.
Attachment 17139
Then after a run on the Dragon on the Ural back to the cabin to crank up the DF and take her for a ride.
Gonna leave her stock as she has enough juice for the speeds here in the mountains on two lane roads.
Attachment 17140