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i was under the same assumption too, but the position of the choke symbol confused me, the way to be real sure would be to look in the carby,. i filled the tank and reset the odo, after i fill up again i will see if i got good mileage and i will post it here.:scooter:
memosyd,
sorry I haven't got back sooner but I keep forgetting to bring the manual to work :riding:
The problem I think we have is our bikes are similar in name only. My choke is next to the carb, I have different handlebars, all my switches are different, I have a different headlamp, I have USD front forks...
Mine is red though :thumbsup:
I am pretty busy at work at the moment, but I will get around to .pdf'ing that doc.
Cheers
Marty.
i seem to be getting about 23+km per litre of vortex, and i have noticed that although i have an ngk spark plug as king marty advised, it seems to lose power at high speeds which is noticeble as an intermittent slowing down (as if u change to a lower gear) at speeds over 80kmph. i have done over 400k's and sped at over 90k's ph. my son seems to think that its not the spark plug misfiring but it is a timing problem. eg. some new model cars have whats called a VVT or variable valve timing which is supposed to auto adjust the valve timing depending on the engine revs. and which this motor does not have. was he right,? a remedy might be is to change the rear wheel sprocket as the bike seems to be under geared:chinese::dirtbike:
as i still have no user manual for this bike my guess is the first oil change would be 1000km am i right?
If it's grossly undergeared the engine will be revving at maximum revs when you notice the slowing down. It means the rev-limiter is cutting in. What revs are you doing when you notice this?.
All bikes that I know of have fixed valve timing and 90% of the cars on the road. VVT is found in relatively few vehicles, some Alphas, Hondas, Mazda MX-5's and a few more.
The ignition timing on bikes is either fixed or electronically advanced and retarded by a control unit. I doubt this is your trouble.
1000km is about the right time to do the first oil change. Do the filter as well as any dirt or metallic particles from the assembly and running-in process will be trapped there.
it does not have a rev meter but assuming that i pushed it close to its limit to get it past 80+kmph that maybe so. if thats the case i will try revving an a lower gear to see if a similar thing happens, and if it does alternatively i will need to change the rear cog to get more smooth speed . will update post when i try lower gear.:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by forchetto
Kinlon RT 200
Memosyd,
You probably thought I wouldn't get around to it, but I have :deal:. It may have taken a little while but I have managed to get the Kinlon owner's manual PDF'd :thumbsup:
Here it is.
Marty.
i know this is what manufacturers always say, but it's not what everyone agrees on.Quote:
Originally Posted by forchetto
here's how i run my engine in:
ride the bike really hard, accelerate hard and roll off the throttle often, but change oil really often.
i changed my oil after the first 30k, then 150k, 500, and 1000. everytime i changed it i could see particles from the engine breaking in and honestly, i wouldn't want them in there for a whole 1000k grinding around inside my shiny new engine!
breaking it in like that it creates a good seal between the cylinder wall and the piston rings, mine doesn't burn any oil. plus it saves you the traumatic boredom of doing 1000km at e-bike speeds!
this is how race bikes are broken in, i trust this method.
:thumbsup: thanks to king marty for the user manual. although its typical of the chinese :chinese: english. but i still learned a few things from it. and as for the engine cutting out at high speeds, i have tested it by going at high revs on third gear and u guessed it it cuts out intermittently as it did on full speed, so it appears that forchetto was right in saying that there may be a high rev cut out switch, the only way i can think of around that is to change the rear wheel cog to a smaller one. but i'm not ready to do that . Yet. and i suppose i better change that oil pretty soon..
:dirtbike:
No worries Memosyd. Unfortunately, it isn't the most useful document going around. Especially when you compare it to the Honda CB250 Manual I have at home which is massive.Quote:
Originally Posted by memosyd
The english in the Manual is pretty funny. One of my favourites is in the "Safe Drive" section - "grasp the left handlebar by the left hand" - I knew I was doing something wrong! :taz:
Also, "full preoccupation is required during drive" - being preoccupied is not the best way to be riding, try full concentration instead! :asshat:
Hi forchetto, that is the ON position. I have the same bike in china.Quote:
Originally Posted by forchetto
But you need the choke only in VERY cold days. Or just few seconds when you start the bike.
Re: manual, i have mine in chinese but i can try to tell if you have any specific question. You can also try to fin in the internet the JL200, is not the same bike but the manual is very similar.
Cheers!