ZS is for the manufacturer of the engine: ZongshenQuote:
Originally Posted by txm123
1 means a single cylinder engine.
F means natural air cooled
M means an engine for motorcyle application
L is a code for cubic capacity L=200 cc.
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ZS is for the manufacturer of the engine: ZongshenQuote:
Originally Posted by txm123
1 means a single cylinder engine.
F means natural air cooled
M means an engine for motorcyle application
L is a code for cubic capacity L=200 cc.
Thanks very much for all the info you gave me..Quote:
Originally Posted by forchetto
Now I'll try to find that stamped capcity of the engine...any idea where to look for?
Thanks
I found an interesting page that let's us calc the displacement given the bore and stroke.
if i put 67 as bore and 49.5 as stroke it gives me 174.5.Which is less than 200..so this make me think that my engine should have a bigger stroke than the 125 to achieve 200cc.(indeed i can find it as a simple equation).
Here you can find the link that is just an automated volume of a cylinder but i think it could be useful
http://www.ducatitech.com/info/bore.html
Somewhere around the bottom, where the cylinder joins the crankcase. I think it must be a legal requirement as all engines have these marking somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
I had to grind them off on my monkey bikes, as I've installed a big-bore kit that makes them illegal, in case a nosey policeman has a close look.
You were right...in the base of the cylinder at the fron it say "198 cm¨3",so I guess its a 200cc.I think it has a big stroke then...
Tell me do you know something about the oil that goes in the forks? I have Inverted front shok absorbers "showa" type.How do I changfe the oil inside?Somebody told me that if I change the oil for a better one I'll get a much steady bike ...What do you think?
thanks
In the old days front forks had a drain screw at the bottom that made oil changing a pleasure. Nowadays makers cut costs by not providing such a facility.
The chances are that those forks are made by the same people that made mine and have the same oil capacity. Check the diameter of the slider bit. Mine are 41 mm.
The only way to change the oil is to dismantle the front end and take off the forks. Undo the top nuts before undoing the yoke clamp screws, as they're very tight and it's best to have the forks held in their yokes while undoing.
Turn upside down and drain the oil into a container, if you don't know the oil capacity, save the oil for measuring how much comes out. When it's all drained out pump the sliders in and out to see if any more oil comes out.
It'll probably be a lightish oil grade, something like 10 grade. Most people change to a 14 grade or some quality oil sold in bike shops. Add 10 or 20 cc to whatever you take out to make up for losses left inside the forks and possible leakages over time.
If the forks happen to be the same as mine the capacity is 330 ml. Make sure you put in the same quantity in each leg, preferably using some graduated container.
Here's what mine look like:
http://www.telecable.es/personales/a...qi/usdfork.jpg
There's a thread here talking about forks like those. It has an exploded drawing attached to message number 13 as well:
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345
I suppose it's the same,at least it looks pretty close.
Another thing that worries me a bit is the engine vivration,my bike is new and I guess it has 200km more or less,I changed the oil to a motul 15w/50.I understand the engine has a balancing shaft but I don't want to modify nothing.I wonder if this bikes are subject to more vivration that japanese bikes I mean it's normal that after 70%of the throttle the bike starts with a little vivration that becomes greater later?
Thanks
My forks have an adjustable knob,that let me adjust the hardness of the shocks.I mean quicker/slower action ,the same has the rear mono shok.How does it work?is like a valve that lets more fluid to get into the fork.
Does it really have a balancing shaft?, you can normally tell because the Chinese are not too subtle about their positioning and they make an obvious lump in the front of the crankcase.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
You shouldn't get any serious vibration with a balanced engine, unless the engine bolts are loose, or its coming from a misaligned rear suspension swing arm or chain/sprockets, or even an out of balance or out of round wheel. Check by killing the engine at the speed the vibration is felt and note whether it continues.
My Qingqi vibrates quite a lot at speed. I have reduced this by loosening and re-setting the engine in the frame, putting bar-end weights on the handlebars and mounting the silencer on a rubber silentbloc. The worst of the vibration also became less after the running-in period.
Mine don't have any adjustment. The adjuster regulates the size of the oil passages in the damper, the smaller the passage the more difficult it is for the damping oil to circulate and the harder the damping.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
I thought that ...One thing to improve in my bike is definitively the wiring,the bosh style terminals are really bad,very thin and after getting some mud they loose contact and the bike won't turn on.I'll do all the wiring again with good quality materials,I discovered that this is the only thing in my bike that is really different to japanese bikes,The rest is great!
To change the brake pads,do I have to push the pistons backwards with a screwdriver or something or it's not necesary ?
Wich tyres would you recomend after the originals get old,pirelli,michelin,?
It's best to at least inspect the cable loom routing as well. You'll often find that they run unprotected wires around sharp edges and even hot spots, or connections have been put round the wrong bit of a frame tube and wires are stretched very tight. Connectors that seem exposed to water thrown up by the wheels have to be protected, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
The electrics have been the Achiles heel of many manufacturers over the years. The British bikes of the 50-60s suffered from it. Italian bike wiring and electrics were a joke, etc. One of the secrets of the success of the Japanese was the introduction of reliable electrics.
If the pads are worn then the piston will have moved out of the cylinder to take up the wear and the space behind the piston filled with hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Back the piston with a screwdriver or wooden wedge, but if your reservoir is completely full watch out for the fluid overflowing out of the top. Syringe or spoon some out to make room for the fluid that will return from the cylinder.
Don't know much about tyres. I usually go for a well-known make knowing that they'll have done their research and know better than me. The last tyres I put on my XV1100 were Michelin Commander and they transformed the bike compared to the previous Bridgestone Exedras.
Hello,today I want your advice about that kind of chain lubes that come in a spray and are like a "white grease".They are supossed to protect even better than standard oil and they claim that no dirt or sand attaches to the chain,and it doesn't come out with water?Have you ever heard about that?I think they are from Gunk brand.
I started using "Blanco cadenas" (Chain White) which is a white grease designed for industrial chains in conveyors, etc when I saw it in our local engineering hardware suppliers, not in a bike shop. It goes on as a liquid, soaking the chain and then dries to a dry-ish surface, but doesn't fling off very much.
Comes in an aerosol and it's easy to apply. The little that flings off around such parts as the gearbox sprocket housing is very dificult to clean off as it really sticks on the surfaces. Otherwise I'm happy with it. It doesn't wash off when hosing the bike down or in the rain, so it's good protection.
Oh,ok I'll try to look for that brand then..thanks
Do you have any comments regarding XENON Light kits ?are they useful for motorcycles?
I've read about lots of people that have fitted the conversion kits and are delighted with the results. Half the power consumption and 4 times the efficiency, can't be bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Personally I have no plans to uprate my lights, especially as those Xenon kits come with a transformer device that puts out something like 23,000 volts...I don't fancy having 23 Kv coursing through my testicles if there's a wiring fault...:icon10:
I hear they use a lot of them at Guantanamo though...:icon10:
LOL =)
How do I know if my chain has O-rings?
You can see the "O" rings, which are tiny rubber seals, if you look between the sideplates:Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
http://www.courtneyconcepts.com/images/rkdiagram1.jpg
And what about the x-rings ,I can't figure it out (the cross section I mean).How do they look?
Anybody has comments regarding Pirelli Skorpion MidSoft 32 90/100-16?
The normal seals are round cross-section, the "X" ring seals are like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
http://www.satoriseal.com/x-ring.jpg
As always! thanks for your answer,now I really understand.
I need a oil filter for a loncin 250 motor. Dealer has no idea where to find one.
Did the "dealer" really admit to not knowing where to get an oil filter?. No wonder Chinese bikes get such a bad press with dealers like that...Quote:
Originally Posted by benji2296
I assume it's for your Apollo Orion 250 Enduro with the Loncin water-cooled engine like this one?:
http://pitbikesales.googlepages.com/...ikeEngine2.JPG
I think its model number is 170MM and it's Yamaha inspired. Maybe someone here knows which Yamaha it resembles and the chances are that the oil filter for that Yamaha will fit yours. Could it be the YZF250? if so there's a 4-pack here for very little money:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-YZF-250...01126001r26991
If that's the one just do a search for "oil filter YZF250" on Google or ebay.
Which tyres are better for sand?the soft ones ,quad(atv) style or maybe harder ones? What do you think?and for mud?
benji2296, did post 55 help at all?. Did we guess right? Please let us know, we depend on feedback to learn things.
It makes the effort to help worthwhile, so at least the courtesy of a reply would help.
Maybe he is not in the forum anymore?
By the way that bike has a really strange engine,here at least in my country that's different from the ones that come in the apollo bikes.
I wouldn't join a forum just to ask a question and then bugger off, having obtained an answer that may have taken valuable time to research. I don't expect thanks, but if I got the answer right it gives one the satisfaction and further knowledge for next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
I'm in two other forums and this sort of thing is unfortunately too common...
Sometimes I think people just don't care or they don't realise all the effort it takes to find an answerQuote:
Originally Posted by forchetto