pulse adrenaline 150cc big bore kit fitted

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Originally Posted by LewSpeight

Hi offtheclockuk.
I'm thinking of doing this to my Apache 2010 plate. It needs some TLC so I'm thinking of doing all this too.
Could you help me out in terms of which one you ordered (link if you could please!) And any advice or do's/donts. And from what I've read there doesn't seem to be any top end speed increase at all?
Basically, is it worth doing? Thanks in advance buddy.

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hi bud,

not much to add over what spencer2004 said, the low end and midrange torque is up, head flow is restrictive at high rpms, 65-70 mph is about top.

to be fair with the change of sprockets i had done, the top speed is up on standard as the bike was rediculously short geared when i got it, 9000rpm at 55mph,
now i can cruise along at 55 at around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle at about 6000rpm, i dont think im even going to bother trying to recover the last few rpms ive lost at the top end because of the bigger piston on the standard rod, probably not good for the engine to keep revving high anyway.

well worth the conversion if youre a big lad like me and act like an air brake perched on top of the bike, the grunt is welcome, great not fishing for lower gears on hills and into the wind :icon10:

james

it there a bigger kit for these bikes than the 150cc kit ? can you just get the 150 head kit and just bore that head even bigger ? or can i just get my 125 head bored bigger ? whats best to do i want kit bigger than a 150 and if there is one what do i have to do to the engine for it to cope i e new cam shaft and con rod much help need thanks iv done a thred be nice to answer questions on that rathere than this thred thanks thred name is 125 motorcross engine performance or some thing long them lines

I do not know Conner I have a 200cc so the topic never interested me that much, I just noticed that one member on the forum bored his out his 125 to 150cc.

You seemed to have found the thread…

Here is a 188cc big bore kit http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=14901325189

The cylinder head is only designed for a 125cc cylinder so it will create a bottleneck which will limit the maximum revs so in other words the top end will be terrible. The seller reccommends a different camshaft to increace air flow but he only sells a cam for the EN125 engines whereas yours is a GS125, the en cam looks like it will fit but I don't know how well it will perform. A cylinder head with bigger valves will also help with that problem but that is kind of an untouched subject on this forum.

http://translate.google.com/translat...thorid%3D75082

http://translate.google.com/translat...thorid%3D75082 :naughty:

hi what the expected power with that 150cc big bore?

yes thanks mate so that 188cc bore where can i get a camshaft and con rod to fit ? and that 188cc bore has he just bored out his standard 125 head ? i do mechanics at college you see and i can get all engine work and stuff done for free ie boreing skim head polish and porting exc just wondering if i can just get my standard 125 head bored bigger than a 150cc then ?

It would probably be less hassle to just buy the whole kit, my 150cc kit cost about £70 - £80 delivered. If you bore it out your self you would still need the bigger piston, piston rings and gaskets to go with it which you would have to get from china anyway.

Hi nice thread,im looking to buy a 150cc big bore kit for my Superbyke RMR 125 and i've found this one on Ebay 130949704487 eBay item number would this fit my bike and if so what type of piston will it need the seller has flat top pistons and raised?

Yes that one will fit your bike, you need to ask for a flat piston.

Thanks for the reply much appreciated

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Originally Posted by offtheclockuk

hi guys, as you may have seen ive been pestering about the kit,

i finally ordered one off ebay and with the help of my mate (who happens to be a very good part time bike mechanic) we fitted the kit today,
the first thing i did was to paint the barrel black so that it didnt stand out so much when it was fitted.

it only really took around 2 hours to go from rolling the bike in to rolling it back out again, everything went smoothly and there were no problems.

i rode the bike home afterwards, i cant abuse it yet as it needs to run/bed in again but initial feelings are very good, there is much more torque than i was expecting, :icon10:

here are a couple of pictures from the build and a short video i took of it running, apologies for the sound quality, i do not have a proper camera only iphone4.
http://youtu.be/ssJXEWU21ms


james

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7...b9c72691_z.jpg
un painted by offtheclockuk, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8147/7...64530a8e_z.jpg
painted by offtheclockuk, on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5231/7...e715bcab_z.jpg
starting to strip by offtheclockuk, on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5320/7...10c60ab6_z.jpg
old small piston by offtheclockuk, on Flickr


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7...81cae8e7_z.jpg
new big piston by offtheclockuk, on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5191/7...a764c247_z.jpg
finished and ready to run by offtheclockuk, on Flickr

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link please

Sorry to bring this back up again ,I've now got my 150cc big bore kit and planning on installing it this weekend if I have time and was wondering if anyone can shed some light on this sai hole that you need to fill wondering where abouts it's located ? and will epoxy weld itself be enough to fill it ? I have included a pic of my own kit Attachment 13251 is the hole you need to fill the one on near the top left hand side 2nd one down?

http://attachments.motorfans.com.cn/...2JuGM55699.jpg
You can tell which is the SAI hole from the picture.

I didn't have to block mine off as the holes ligned up ok but if you got yours from eBay it might differ from mine a little. You could wait untill you have the cylinder head off and then see if the SAI passage is in the same place as before, it's the one close to the piston without a rod going through it.

I did block mine off a while ago because the SAI valve was a bit dodgey but instead of filling the hole with epoxy I made a blanking plate out of a piece of scrap metal and I made a gasket using a sheet of gasket material. That way the hole can be unblocked if need be and there isn't any chance of a piece of epoxy comming loose and falling somwhere it shouldn't.

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Originally Posted by Biker1234

will epoxy weld itself be enough to fill it ?

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liquid metal
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-CH...item1e77851ba5

Thanks for the help guys really appreciate it

Hey guys can anyone give me some advice I'm more or less ready to install my big bore kit I'm off work the next few days booked time off work to do it but I'm worried about a few things,I have a decent torque rench and various adapters etc but can anyone link me to a torque rench or adaptor that will allow me to torque these bolts when I'm putting it back together ? I've attached a picture Attachment 13355 I've highlighted the bolts in yellow ,the only thing I can get to fit in there is a spanner to loosen/tighten them because the engine fins come out a bit and prevent the wrench fitting in so any help on that would be great also if anyone could tell me the spacing for the piston rings or better still a picture as my Haynes manual doesn't cover the rings for some reason

I had the same problem, I just used a spanner and it was fine. I forget which torque they require but if you tighten the 4 cylinder head nuts (20nm) or the cam cover bolts (10nm) you should get a good feel for what torque is required. Just don't go crazy tight and you will be fine.

Thanks Spencer,any advice about the piston rings wondering what the piston ring spacing should be if you happen to know ?also the order of the rings sorry to be a pain :thumbsup:

Getting the rings on is the scariest part as you have to bend them a fair bit and if they break your kinda screwed.

According to a thing I just found on Google the ring gap should be at least 0.0035 inches per bore inch which for a 62mm bore is 0.217 mm, that's with the rings compressed within the bore by the way.

As for fitting them it's hard to explain so you should watch a couple of youtube videos on the matter.

The order should be thick ring, thick ring, thin ring, corrigated ring, thin ring. The top 2 rings should have markings which should face up, the markings will be something like 1 and 2, a and b, t for top and b for bottom or something like that (1, a or t going at the top). The gaps in the piston rings should be offset as much as possible, in other words they should all be 120 degrees apart, be sure to double check before inserting the pistion in to the bore.

Here be a picture of my old piston if it helps

Attachment 13360

That's pretty much it. A few more words of advice; don't rush things, don't take shortcuts and always stuff rags in places where you don't want things to fall, if you drop your gungeon pin in to the crank case you will have a very bad day.

Good luck!

Awesome information and the pic of your old piston helps a lot ! That's the only part I'm worried about is installing the rings and making sure there positioned correctly and the gaps are ok,think ill watch a few youtube vids tonight and have a look over everything again because when I take the top end of cant afford to make any mistakes as I need the bike for transport to work which makes this more worrying .Ill have 2 days since taking apart to get running so fingures crossed

Attachment 13512Hey guys need some more help with this, the situation now is the top end is of my bike ive put the new piston on but I have a problem with 2 dowel pins stuck in the old 125cc cylinder one stuck on each end ,can anyone tell me how to remove these they seen stuck solid and won't move for anything ?? I've attached a picture so hopefully someone can point me in the direction of getting them out or a link to buy new ones really needing to get my bike put back together as soon as possible :confused1:

Oh yeah I forgot about that, on mine one fell out under it's own weight and the other was really stuck. I was naughty and put it back together without the 2nd dowel pin but that is probably a really bad idea.

This thread talks about various ways to get them unstuck, if it was me I would heat up the area around the cylinder (not the pin) to expand it and the pin should then some out with a good tug.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/102...-the-cylinder/

Thanks Spencer ill have a look on that forum ,can you suggest any other possible ways of removing them that might work as I don't have one of those heat torch guns to do it ?would need to try and get a hold of one lol so annoying that little things like these can hold you back.Ive thought about putting it back together without the pins basically it would be one pin underneath the cylinder block and one pin above it for the head so have no idea if it would be safe or not I thought the pins where just to help with gasket allingment anyway but not sure

If you have no other choice you could probably get away with it as the piston should hold the cylinder in place until you can bolt it down, the cylinder head might be a little bit harder but then again I don't think it's as critical to get it perfectly aligned as the cylinder block. As an alternative to the metal dowels you could use wooden ones which should be easily available at most craft stores, it does need to be a near perfect fit however, it wouldn't matter when they disintegrate due to the heat because everything will be bolted down by then.

Excellent info again spencer! I've managed to get the dowel out that is in the picture just now i put some black tape round it and twisted it with grips and it popped out so just the one to go but I don't think that one will be for happening it seems really stuck anyway hopefully the one I've got out can be used on the other side will update shortly :)

I recently purchased a stock 1994 Suzuki DR125SE , I want to buy the 150cc big bore kit , ive been searching for countless hours for information on my particular bike and have come to the consensus that I should get the domed version of the piston for more compression. Is this correct, does anyone have any information pertaining to my specific bike as to if the kit will bolt up no problem, and should I get the domed piston or flat piston. Thank youhttp://shoppingcart.aliexpress.com/shopcart/shopcartDetail.htm

Domed piston is for the 12mm spark plug (ie. pre-2003) family
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http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37759962405 Option #1 black / domned | Option #3 silver / domned
That seller (QQ: 1427521590 tel: +86 18576531078 speaks Cantonese & Mandarin) is a rebore machinist that knows the stuff.

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Originally Posted by humanbeing

Domed piston is for the 12mm spark plug (ie. pre-2003) family
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http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37759962405 Option #1 black / domned | Option #3 silver / domned
That seller (QQ: 1427521590 tel: +86 18576531078 speaks Cantonese & Mandarin) is a rebore machinist that knows the stuff.

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Awesome, is that the same kit as the one I listed? Looks the same. Mine was pretty cheap I ordered the domed piston $109 bucks. Hope it works out. Need some more low end power