Printable View
I surely will :)
Actually, got a question here: when warm white smoke comes from the exhaust. Could it be that that HF thing doesn't route exhaust gas properly? Something else? The bike's in the break-in period and I haven't gunned it at all. Do I have any reason to worry here?
White, you said? Is the air in Nanjing humid? It is probably steam - water condensed inside muffler evaporates.
I saw that HF thing have some rubber hoses. Therefore I doubt that this thing is doing something with the hot exhaust gases.
Are you checked so far what is the color of soot on the spark plug electrodes, that is, whether is the carburetor adjusted?
Do you have any reason to worry? Till you do not get familiar with every bolt on the bike and how each assembly work, you have reason to be worried.
Its called an (SAI) secondary air intake, it’s a reed valve that operates on vacuum/pressure from the carburetor. When it opens it let air into the exhaust side of the manifold, oxygenates the exhaust to ensure unspent hydrocarbons are fully spent.
Some take it off because they think its ugly, others take it off because they believe it raise the temperature of the engine….I swear I can hear it, its double reed valve, I swear it makes clicking noise that comes and goes with accelerating and decelerating.
Suzuki invented the SAI, I think in the 1970’s its patent expired along time ago.
I think removing it is a testament to narcissism .
The air's humid as hell, in summer it's like living in a fishbowl. Took the spark plug out - no soot/not black/not shot. The bike's got like 100 something km on it, all ok.
That's right with the rubber lines - got no idea why/how that is related to exhaust gas...
I don't think it's ugly. Actually, that SAi gives me no feeling whatsoever :) It does make sound and it's clear when accelerating. I won't bother removing it, though, since it hasn't posed a problem so far.
My smog pump was installed on the the exhaust and had no contact with manifold.
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/a...atalizator.jpg
I replaced the entire exhaust pipe, because the entire assembly of smog pump, along with the catalyst, reduced the flow of exhaust gases.
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/a...smog_pumpe.jpg
That's a sound idea. I'd not do anything to the bike for now, though. The plan is to see how long it'll run without any major intervention, just with the regular oil/filter/spark plug changes. Call it reliability test of an 8000 yuan bike :)
Еxactly! Break-in engine, check how everything works, and after that - "не мешай машине работать", unless something really does not work properly.
Although, I think you'll make some mods, for example, side bag mounts, but it is a low tech work.
Indeed, I have just ordered the saddlebags from taobao (Chinese eBay, that is). Hope they'll fit. Will post the pics as soon as I get/install them.
Rebranding killing me...
French market - Mash Seventy 125.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJ1GKqBG4xk
Mash's website, they are being distributed by this company, SIMA.
Funny name and they seem to have only the orange color scheme... But that seems to have scored a positive review at Latest Bikes Info:
http://www.latestbikesinfo.com/mash-...ful-naked.html
I expect a limited series of this model which will be called MASH "Four-O-Seven-Seven" and be in olive drab color. :lol8:
Won't surprise me if you got 'em next summer :)
As of now the white smoke problem is still there. Bike has 500 + kms on the clock and started to stall when idling. I played with the screws but to no avail. Even if idle revs are uncomfortably high it cuts off and stalls especially when hot.
Got no desire to do anything about it, will wait until the poor thing burns itself.
If you are bored with white smoke, I have a friend who is a aircraft mechanic, so I can get you few liters of fluid used by aerobatic teams, one that leaves colored smoke. Alas, the choice is limited: you have already white, so you can choose whether you want red or blue. :lol8:
Try to find on the Internet some manual on how to set up CV carburetor. Maybe something about it's adjustment says in the Qingqi SM/enduro service manual. Link is hanging somewhere in the forum.
IF it don't "eats" oil -Try another gas station , maybe too much water.
Don't you think, that in this case smoke would be bluish?
I think it's not a CV carb, it's a PZ one (whatever it means), the most primitive carb ever imaginable. BTW, the make of the carb is Keihin, I was hoping for some quality setup there. Actually come the next oil change I might very well take it off and check if it's the carb.
Not water, definitely. Tried other gas stations, #93, #97 - same effect.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...nClZeT_m6oX47A
see if you can get it to idle at 1500 RPM.
It can idle at 1500 RPM, no problem. Problem is...well, I don't know how to say it in that particular technical language, but I'll try. problem is: it feels like the carb is resetting itself "to defaults". E.g.: I adjust the idle screw, it idles fine. Then the next day I start it with choke, warm it up, ride, it cuts off in traffic again. I adjust the idle again and it's OK for a day. The next day - the same thing. WTF could that be?
If PZ type carburetor, then it would be easy to solve the problem.
Since I do not need to remind you that my English is awful, I will simply copypaste, without translation, a simple method for PZ type carburetor adjusting, who wrote DED @ moto.com.ua forum. Is true that it is written in the topic about mopeds with Super Cub's motors, but the essence is the same.
If this helped, please translate this text into English, because it will surely be of use to someone else too.Quote:
Приступая к регулировкам необходимо быть уверенным что;
1). Свеча исправна.
2). Уровень масла в норме.
3) Уровень в поплавковой камере – «по разъем крышки камеры».
4). Игла дросселя на среднем делении.
5). Клапана имеют соответствующие зазоры ( Альфа – 0.05 выпускной и 0.03 впускной) согласно мануалу.
6). Воздушный фильтр чистый и нет подсосов воздуха в корпусе или патрубках.
7) Нет неисправностей в системе электрооборудования.
8). Правильно отрегулирован трос газа (полностью открывается и закрывается дроссельная заслонка и нет заеданий).
Настройка карбюратора.
На хорошо прогретом двигателе, закручиваем ВК (винт качества) до отказа. Запускаем двигатель. Ручкой газа держим МИНИМАЛЬНО УСТОЙЧИВЫЕ ОБОРОТЫ, не давая ему заглохнуть, ЗАКРУЧИВАЕМ винт ВХХ (винт холостого хода) пока двигатель будет сам держать МИНИМАЛЬНО УСТОЙЧИВЫЕ ОБОРОТЫ - без помощи ручки газа. Затем медленно выкручиваем ВК. Двигатель начнет увеличивать обороты. Постепенно выкручивая ВК добьемся МАКСИМАЛЬНЫХ ОБОРОТОВ (если обороты будут слишком высокими – немного выкрутить ВХХ до приемлемых). Добившись максимальных оборотов ВК, проверяем, что дальнейшее ВЫКРУЧИВАНИЕ винта на дает увеличения оборотов, пробуем ЗАКРУЧИВАТЬ его до НАЧАЛА уменьшения оборотов, оставляем его в этом положении и затем, выкручивая ВХХ, выставляем приемлемые обороты холостого хода. Операцию можно повторить пару раз. Если таким методом не получается - значит карбюратор засорен, есть подсос воздуха или бракованный.
Is there a small spring around idle screw?Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_Halt
Or borrow a nail polish from your wife, and just before setting idle, and smear some on the threads of the idle screw. This way idle screw will not be able to move because of vibrations.
No spring down there. Actually I thought about superglueing it once and for all. Something stopped me :)
That manual might be useful, indeed, here we go:
Before fine-tuning your PZ carb make sure that:
1). The spark plug is fine.
2). Oil level is fine.
3). Gas float level in the float bowl is "by the brim of the float bowl".
4). Throttle needle is on mid setting.
5). Valve clearance figures for 50 cc horizontal engine are: 0.05 and 0.08. For any other type of engine valve clearance recommendations are different.
6). Air filter's clean and there're no holes in the airbox/hoses.
7). Electrics're OC.
8). Throttle cable's fine (doesn't get stuck, etc)
Fine-tuning PZ Carb Procedure:
Engine should be warmed up.
1. Tighten the mixture screw to the max. Start the engine. Use throttle to keep the engine running at minimum idle (not letting it stall).
2. Tighten the idle screw until the engine can idle by itself (that is, you don't have to throttle it to keep it running).
3. Unscrew the mixture screw (slowly). The engine will start revving up. Unscrew the mixture screw until you get the highest revs (if it seems the revs are too high, unscrew the idle screw a bit).
4. Make sure that further unscrewing the mixture screw doesn't increase the revs.
5. Tighten the mixture screw until the revs START to drop. Leave it like that.
6. Unscrew the idle screw to set appropriate idle revs.
This procedure can be repeated for better result.
If this doesn't work, the carb is dirty/has sideways air intake/is faulty.
It is good that you're not thinking in the direction to solder idle screw to the carburetor body.
If there really is no spring, try to put some spring like a half of spring from a cheap ball pen.
Regarding point number 5: the translation is wrong. It is always bigger valve clearance on the exhaust valve. And I personally could add, that these figures, are for 50 cc horizontal engine and that in my experience this too tight - 0.05 and 0.08 is a better combination. Of course, for any other type of engine valve clearance recommendations are different.
And check whether the needle is fixed and does not move freely up and down through slide.
Well noted: translation corrected. I'll get to installing some spring on the idle screw as soon as I'm free from work and got a day off :)
Man, thanks for the .pdf!!! Makes it extremely clear for (I'm not a carb pro at all). Much obliged.