:popcorn:
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Another departure in the morning and it's getting chilly.
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The fog is well installed.
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Later in the afternoon a coal mine hangs to the moutain.
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Miners live on site in some barracks. Look the color of the river, pollution is not really on people's mind around here.
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Few hundredths meters down to the stream or how to spread more pollution.
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Unfortunately it is the site of a nice hotel.
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Tombs on the hills.
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I stop to take a picture on this new rebuilt road when I spot my rear tire.
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The knobbies on the side are cracking. Should be ok until Chengdu...
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Later on a bridge.
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Got vertigo?
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And another gorge even deeper.
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Later in the afternoon, I arrive in Zunyi. With the grey sky, the whole city looks a little depressing, crowded, high rise dirty buildings, narrow streets.
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Like this old ChangJiang 750.
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Or this vagabond.
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To be continued...
Keep 'em comin' !:popcorn:
At this stage of the trip, I'm around 600km south of Chengdu, capital of Sichuan. I expect to reach the city within two days, stay there two or three days to do some maintenance on the bike then to head west on the Tibet-QingHai plateau.
It is freezing this morning, It is getting mandatory to protect myself from the cold and the wind. Since few days I've seen the local taxi bikes riding with windshield and fur gloves on the handlebars. I stop by a bike shop and ask them if they have some. 60RMB ($8) and few minutes later, the bike is equipped with some top notch winter protection.
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After few kms, I realized that the windshield is mounted too vertical and too high but this will be good enough for the day. I'll rectify the set up later.
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Impressive bridge in construction.
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Chinese have developed a real know how for civil engineering.
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Propaganda, the perfect family.
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While crossing a village, a little girl runs in front of my bike, too late to avoid her and I hit her in the back with the front fender. I shout in my helmet, stop quickly then rush to check her. She is conscious and can move but she is a little knocked. She has a mark on the front so I start to worry about something serious.
The road nearly empties 1 minute earlier is now crowded. Lot of people around are talking and looking, some are shouting. I ask to call a taxi to bring her to hospital, nobody is moving. I ask to call the family, the Grand Mother arrives, she goes back to her house to grab some money then after more discussion she takes the girl to hospital with some relative. I want to go with her but the villagers stop me and tell me that I have to wait for the Police.
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A local policeman arrives within 10 minutes but he is not in charge on this kind of accident, I have to wait for the Traffic Police who will come from a larger town. I shot the road under every angle to memorize the scene. The crowd is quiet, mostly curious about the accident and me. One or two people were hostile at the very beginning but it was more due to the barrier language than anything else.
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One hour later, when the Traffic Police arrives, this is the big game. They block the road and start their job. They assure me that I have nothing to worry, their investigation will be made according the rules... It will take me few days to understand what they mean.
They find a translator to ease the communication, an English teacher from a local high school. The bike is put back where I hit the little girl.
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I contact my wife by phone to inform of the accident then she contacts the Embassy. Some Embassy official calls me back few minutes later to have a quick report of the situation and give me some advices. He will follow this case for the next few days until its resolution.
I try to get some news about the little girl but nobody knows how she is. I ask to go to the hospital Tomorrow to see her.
The night is there, the crowd too.
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While the Police is investigating, I'm waiting in a small shop. Many kids come to see me and they are asking for photos, my name, my email, phone number and whatever...
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I do an informal English class and considering my bad accent I think these kids will never make anymore progress on the subject.
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Everybody want his picture with me. This guy was funny, a cool little man, I help him a little bit to stand in the picture.
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After 5 hours, things are moving. Road is unblocked. The bike is parked at the local Police station then they brings me to an hotel for the night. As requested they will accompany me to the hospital next day.
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Next day at the hospital, I'm glad to see the little girl here with her Grand Mother. Doctor tells me that she has nothing broken but because of the trauma on the head they need to keep her in observation few days.
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To make it straight, somebody must pay for this accident and its consequences and even if I don't think that I am responsible, this will be me.
The bike is insured, I'm a foreigner so considered wealthy. The girl's family is poor and the hospital is expensive.
I will spend 3 more days in this village not by necessity but because the Police holds the way they will write their accident report and my bike until I settle a deal with the family. Enough said.
I'm using my free time to walk in the village. People are asking me to take some photos of their shop or kids. This old man is making chopsticks.
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This one sells Moutai, a Chinese strong alcohol.
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These women make decoration, paper and bamboo houses for funeral ceremonies.
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The butcher stall
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Next morning, I'm leaving this village to Chengdu. I have some mixed feelings about these last days. I'm glad to know that the little girl is fine but I hated the way they played by their fucking rules.
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To be continued...
Whoa man! That was it?! No anxiety? You said you hated the way they play by their rules but according to your description it sounded quite normal to me? :confused1:
I seem to recall a mention of confiscation of the bike some time back. How did that get resolved? What did the embassy do? Were they helpful? :confused1::confused1::confused1:
CC
Yeh but ,
how many Chickens did you owe the family for thier stupid kid running in
front of you ? 4 days in the hospital here would be $10,000 without medication , how did you fare ?????? The corruption there sounds pretty bad .
The USA does the same thing , but they just think we actually don't know they are screwing us . :thumbsup:
Good luck , and keep your eyes MORE pealed for stupid things , kids , cops, animals .
Cheers, Snortin out
I think you did good Brice mate, a lesser man would have speed off to avoid all the trouble. You stayed even though you knew it could have cost you your bike, your cash or even a few nights in the clink.
The bike, the bike's papers and my driver license were held by the Police.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyCarl
There is no legal basis to settle such deal. If it had happened close to my home, I would have go home and let the insurance make its job. Here they knew that I was locked in the place unless ready to give up the bike.
The translator told me that a Chinese driver would have not stopped because of the risk to be attacked or killed by the villagers. At best he would have run to a Police station.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmarty45
On the moment, I didn't thought about the consequences, I'm a father too so I felt terribly worried for this little girl.
I paid 6000RMB ($870) which is a big amount for China in the countryside. Insurance should reimbursed half of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snortin Norton
Frankly, I don't care about the money, this is about the way it is done that bother me.
There was one case I heard about in China where a truck driver hit a kid at night but didn't kill the child. To avoid having him self identified and fined, he backed the truck over the child again to finish the job just as the child mother ran outside to witness it.
From what I understand the driver got the death penalty. China has HEAVY penalties for running away from the scene of an accident and anyone ESPECIALLY FOREIGNERS are well advised to stay and face the music. If you show that you are trying to handle the responsibilities you'll be much better off than if you run like a jack-ass. If you run and they catch you, not only will you be royally screwed but you'll make it harder for other foreigners to independently explore China in the future.
CC
Yes there are many stories like that.
3 years ago, a young German living in Shanghai was hit and killed by a van while riding his scooter. The van didn't stop.
It was a blast in the local expat community because he didn't have a driver license and insurance.
In fact scoots were so cheap for these young expats that many bought them with their pocket money without telling their parents.
Few days, later the cops came to the French-German high school where my kids studied to check every motorized bikes.
Something like this was caught on tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyCarl
Andy
One day on dirty wet roads and no picture, I'm in Chengdu. After 3 weeks in the countryside and small cities this is a big change, Chengdu looks clean, nice. Even the weather is more friendly.
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I'll stay 3 nights at Sim's Guesthouse, a well known backpackers hostel owned by a guy from Singapore.
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I ride in the north west of the city where is located the bikes accessories market. New tires, new oil and filters, few nuts and bolts to check or change, that's it.
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The thread of the upper triple clamp is dead on the left side. They redo one.
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Not far there is another shop selling dirt bikes. They have the new Shineray 250 X1, a watercooled MX bike. I ask for a short ride. Very different from the QingQi, higher seat, wide handlebar, more responsive, more power and stiff suspensions. 14000RMB or $2000 here in Chengdu.
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Also there is a Galaxy FTR 250. I already ride this one few months. Their factory is not far from my hometown in South China and I paid them a visit. Check the report. Smaller bike than the Shineray, easy to handle, it should please small gabarit, women or teens. 10000RMB or $1500
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Back to the hostel, it is already dark and time for a jaunt in the city center.
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A Russian theater or a KTV (Karaoke bar)?
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On display a light version of the famous Katiouchka or Stalin organ set on a Chinese jeep (BJ2020).
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Big cities are convenient but I find them uninteresting so back to the countryside. Yan'an valley and in the background the mountains were I'm heading.
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Yan'an, last city before the Tibet - QingHai plateau.
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Little snack before twisty roads.
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Where I came from.
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First snow capped mountain. There is not too much snow because this is the dry season, snow will arrive later with the monsoon. At this pass, I'm above 3000m and even with a clear shinny sky it is freezing.
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I stop for the night in KangDing, the entry city of the Tibetan world in West Sichuan. Not too much photo there, I'm not in the mood.
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Small restaurant, I don't even know what I will eat, just point a dish on another table. Anyway, it was hot and tasty.
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Later in the street, I spot this stand. Looks like duck eggs.
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On the main square, people are dancing, good way to stay warm around here.
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To be continued...
You really did the right thing with that accident.
That kind of shit is so typical in China. It wasn't your fault. All the villagers and the cops know in their heart you are a good guy.
The amount you had to pay was insane, and unfair, I hate the way that they try to milk something that is their fault to their advantage.
__________________________________________________ _____________
My method would be
1. Check person that has been hit is OK.
2. Pay a reasonable sum which would be considered a lot by a local (500-1000 RMB) on the spot to injured party or relative of injured person.
3. Get away before cops show up.
I know this may not be fully legal....
Another day, another departure. The owner of the guesthouse allowed me to park the bike inside the lobby.
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KangDing which was before a city mostly occupied by Tibetan ethnic people is changing quickly. New districts are rising up to face massive arrival of Chinese (Han ethnic) from the East. Let's call that the progress...
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On the road since less than one hour and I'm already cold to the bones. I have six layers of clothes but this is barely enough.
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Few minutes before this photo, I felt in an icy sharp turn. No time to take a pic I was surrounding by trucks trying to climb the road.
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The first pass above 4000m of this trip. In the Tibetan areas, each pass hosts a Buddhist monument called shorten. People turn around clockwise and often left streamers of flags cover with prayers.
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In summer time, this landscape is green, now the grass is burnt by the cold.
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The landscape has changed so the houses.
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They are large, colorful and made of rocks. The basement will be used as a barn in winter time for cattle.
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Road is not bad but dusty. Some sections are dirt, some others are tarmac or cement. To help the bike breathing at these altitudes, I have removed the airbox cover.
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First stop in a big village to eat some boiled eggs.
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The 2 guys on the right are wearing the traditional Tibetan coat made of Yak wool. They wear it all year round, it protects from the cold and the rain. Check how long the sleeves are.
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As usual, the landscape is stunning. This is my third time in this region I like it more and more.
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My road to Litang.
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Winter is coming but Yaks are still in the pastures above 4000m.
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The highest pass of the trip
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Few kms later, a small monastery, precisely a convent.
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Above Litang, the city where I'll stay for the night.
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The mountains range where I'm heading Tomorrow.
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A herd on the way down to Litang.
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No photo of Litang, I'm not well, tired, cough and altitude sickness (strong headache). The hostel is a fridge. After a soup and a little chat with 2 backpackers, I'm heading to my room to get some sleep. The electric blanket provided is useless, I will alternatively sweat and freeze all the night. Morning is worse, altitude sickness is stronger and the only way to stop it is to go down. I expected to stay 2 or 3 days in Litang but I decide to make my way to the next leg XiangCheng which is a little bit lower.
To be continued...
Tooo bad your not in PURU , you could have chewed up some Coca leaves for your sickness . Strong doses of antihystemins are supposed to help too with
the altitude . Lets see , your in Tibet or China, home of all Medicines and they have no altitude sickness remedy ? Hmmmm? Did you ask any pharmacist for the cure yet ? 3rd time there , and you are dealing with it three times now ? Why ?
Later, cool pics . Snortin
Brice,
Great pics and much kudos to you for attempting it in the winter because it's COLD up there! Those roads are my old stomping ground and every time I see pictures of the area it really sends me back. :riding:
I'm also a little surprised to see you made it to Litang without any problems from authorities. Have they started to let people through again without checking? If so that would be great news!
CC
Tibet looks amazing. It is a shame you were poorly.
Keep em coming!
Yes It was too late in the season to really enjoy the area.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyCarl
Yes the road is open since end of Olympics. There were some checkpoints but I don't bother to stop and they don't bother to stop me.
Technically this is not Tibet but West Sichuan which is mostly populated with Tibetan ethnic people or related.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmarty45
This area was part of Tibet before 1949.
I avoid pills or whatever as much as possible. If I had stayed 3 or 4 days the altitude sickness will have disappear, time for the body to acclimate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snortin Norton
That's great news! Could you have gone past Litang into Tibet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brice
CC
I don't see why the road up to Batang (border town with Tibet) won't be open as well. I've been there last year coming from the north.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyCarl
It should be possible to sneak in Tibet since they do not really care about bikes but legally it is forbidden unless you have the requested permit which is never delivered to unaccompanied bikers if I remember well.
The main issue right now is not the checkpoints but the weather.
That's great news for other travelers! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brice
Looking forward to you next update!
CC
Litang marks a change in the trip. This is the beginning of the return to home, 3000km away.
After 3 weeks riding north then west, I'm going south to Yunnan that I'll reach Tomorrow afternoon.
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The sun is present but not enough strong to provide any warm. This short ride of 250km and 6 hours will be the coldest of the whole journey. Later, I have the surprise to see the nails of my big toes turning violet, beginning of a frostbite. Contrary to the rest of the body, I didn't feel any cold in my feet and I expected the two pairs of socks to be enough.
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Tuer Mountain. Tuer means to kill in French. Very appropriate name considering the temperature!
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The Chinese way to cheer up when taking pictures.
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It is cold but I still enjoy the view. It was the purpose of this little jaunt, riding alone in unforgettable landscapes.
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XiangCheng, last city before Yunnan, where I'll stay one night.
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I come from this small road on the other side of the valley.
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A fabulous dirt road all for me.
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My last 4000m pass of the trip.
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It's lunch time, first stop of the day. One of the girls in this restaurant insists to go with me to Zhongdian. I reply politely but firmly that I travel alone and there is no room for her on the bike. Resigned she asks if I'm married, how is my wife, have kids, blah blah.
Hey lonely riders, there is a heart to catch in this mountain...
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In the afternoon later, another stop for a drink, I'm in Yunnan.
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In a north facing turn, I'm surprised by some ice.
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No big damage just the gear foot lever twisted.
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Zhongdian will be my home for the next 2 days. Some inventive marketing local guys have renamed the city "Shangri La" like the legendary city of James Hilton's novel. If Shangri La wasn't the fruit of an author imagination, it should be located appropriately in Kashmir or north Pakistan.
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To be continued...
Awesome story!
How's the possibility for a non-resident foreigner to purchase a chinese registred bike and go for a ride for, say, 2-3 months?
Do some search on this forum or http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ on the subject. There is no definitive answer and all depend of what you are ready to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by HansP
It is possible and people have done it. 2-3 months is usually pushing your tourist visa but anything is possible given the right amount of time and correct circumstances. You would need to have more solid idea/plans ready for more info.Quote:
Originally Posted by HansP
CC
Thanks Brice, Carl.
We're probably looking a couple of years ahead before a China trip will materialise for me. First I have to do Iceland and the Morocco in 2009 and 2010. But it's good to know that it might be possible and will plan accordingly.