Here is a video in Spanish that actually cover the stator and CDI in detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_92f9HUBnBw
we need an interpreter.
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Here is a video in Spanish that actually cover the stator and CDI in detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_92f9HUBnBw
we need an interpreter.
this one is helpful, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9-mr7BXIho
Is the stator for Ac and DC the same ? Just a connection difference? Yes or no ?
Stator that had "AC-source" can use BOTH , connection difference ONLY vs "ALL dc" stator (often 3 yellow | NO red/black )Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
Thank you! Yes I thought that was the case by looking at my other square type loom and info hereQuote:
Originally Posted by humanbeing
What ohms values should I see?
Or what volt values should I see?
Then I can test to confirm if good or bad
Modern Honda shop manual https://josemaco.files.wordpress.com...h-62ktjam5.pdf won't say ohms in ign system anymore...
AC-source: 100 V minimum | pickup: 0.7 V minimum | pink/Yellow seems good: Charging coil resistance 0.3 – 1.2 Ω (20°C/68°F)
ign Coil http://sanxin.com.cn/info5/index.asp?id=20
AC source is the pink to yellow?Quote:
Originally Posted by humanbeing
Pick up is the blue white to green?
This is a DC ignition system? Doesn't use black with red?
Pink / Yellow = light & charging http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
AC-source http://www.dansmc.com/cdiignition.htm
Then , check there's DC14.?v (indicates reg & battery is running) to VDD (the "lone" wire in CDI's 2-pin )
Ok I tested charge 13.5v at ideas to 15v at revs no battery
AC which is the wire not used black with red to earth 240 Volts AC and silly me used my fingers to try hold the rest lead to it! Wahoo what a shock! Lucky it's little current or I'd be dead
How to test at the CDI? What should see what?
Might be worth my time checking it and learning about it at the same time
Hi can you give me a link on Taobao for a good CDI? Mine is the rounded plug type - Might look to change it and see as I fitted a upgraded coil to the bike as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by humanbeing
I'll get a new plug tonight, seems after fixing the wires the bike revs a bit better but still bogs down.
I've fittted a Walbro PZ27 carb to it and a "upgraded" airbox from the newer VCT/newer engine - My carb might be a bit out but surely not that bad? What is the commin jet and needle setting for a CG150? Idle jet size? and turns out?
I really need to tidy others SCREW ups and set things correctly or I'll just end up chasing my tail.
Get the basics right with correct settings is a good start.
What should the plug gap be as well?
"DC" lacks proper info. Each maker had their own "1?V->2??V" soultion. AC-CDI should close enough to some of these http://fanyi.baidu.com/transpage?que...to=en&render=1
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"DC" black box eats these (info stolen from 1 of the maker)
9 to 16V (DC) ||(14.5 +/- 0.5V) Standby: <50mA | 1500 rpm <250mA | 8000 rpm <500mA
Huh?
Makes no sense to me at all
Best Buy a genuine unit then? What is my bike? AC or DC?
I'm not getting clear direct replies and it's very confusing cause it means I still am none the wiser
Use a battery -old 1 from ebike shop [Sealed ie. no spill/ Don't suits for electric motor≠ can't use small drain purpose) is enough.] = "cleaner" DC = less chance messed up components inside CDI
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CDI is a mystery box cuz we lacks oscilloscope & "pro" tools...
Layman's method: (DC-cdi) 1.There's 2??v output [IGN "leg" in CDI] 2. Input current within limit(s)
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"upgraded" airbox = needs more fuel = NEEDS "fine tune" ...
PZ27
http://fanyi.baidu.com/transpage?que...to=en&render=1
http://fanyi.baidu.com/transpage?que...e=url&render=1
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Spark plug gap 0.6-0.7 |
There not interchangeable, a DC fed AC will burn up and an AC feed DC will not energize properly.
Stators are all AC generators, however they are not all wired the same, some are for AC systems and some are for DC systems.
AC
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/a.../stator6-1.jpg
DC
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Stator_22.png
These three Yellow poles go to the RR
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/a...o_magneto1.png
I had 240 volts AC where the pics say 50-100 v AC black with red trace to earth
Mine has basically the same colors as the first pic
Yellow green pink black/red blue/white
So both stators can work assuming wires are correctly connected? Or must I still use the correct stator to my ignition system?Quote:
Originally Posted by MJH
Attachment 18247
This is my CDI
Attachment 18248
This is my old coil - I've put on a performance orange coil same style
So the first pic you gave is the stator that's in the odd replacement engine, is that correct? No black/red wire fitted that had 240v AC when measured to ground
I am leaning towards you having an AC Engine and a DC bike at this point, based on you saying the Red/Black off the replacement stator (AC) was not connected. That due to the Bike (DC) not having a red and black connection. I am thinking the one yellow lead is only sending a third of the power needed to the RR?
What plugs on the bikes CDI are getting what wires…I am really curious. What is he using in the two prong for the CDI?
With no battery fitted in getting 13.5v at idle and 15v at high rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by MJH
The blue/white trigger wire goes to the 4 prong plug
2 prong has a black and a purple
What wires do I need to check and how to determine what I have? But charging is fine or am I missing something?
This pic shows the X1 top right
Visually it looks the same but the photo doesn't show much in the way of wires
Attachment 18249
No, you will have to rewire for the new stator or use a different stator if that is possible. I am not sure though the bike may be wired for AC it’s hard to tell at this point. The AC CDI are smaller in size, if you google for a while you can likely find comparative dimensions. Since your wiring is now cobbled you cannot do the simple lighting test, AC bikes lights shut off when ignition is cut off, DC bikes lights will stay on, Typically.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJH
It would only be the stator side that might be wrong or incorrect as the rest of the bike hasn't been cut or touched
This engine was fitted and stator wires cut twisted together so I cut and fitted terminals and soldered them to be secure clean etc
Stator is easy to get if I need it - I live in Chengdu and the Chongqing seller has one
But what use to buy new if what I have is correct?
Seems the top pic has halve the AC volts compared to the bottom - possibly resulting in voltage low should that be the wrong one
I'll test the wires to earth to get a reading? Black/red was 240v AC and that's to high to what your photo states
Attachment 18250
Ok check the 5 wires show from CDI
2 greens are earth blue/white is trigger the black with white is cool black terminal (pic shows the yellow line) BUT the 2 prong shows the black as earth yet it's the same as the yellow line on my bike (continuity to the black/white in 4 prong) and there's a purple.
Have I got my coil terminals wrong?? That would cause issues!
I did test spark and it looked nice and blue.
No harm to switch coil wires and try tho?!
Ok purple goes to a plug under the seat not connected plug also has a green earth
The 2 prong is kill switch (black) and purple maybe rev counter of fitted ?
here is the basic wiring for AC
http://www.hooperimports.com/images/...diagram_HI.jpg
Thats DC, you look to be all AC, so forget that diagram for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
Can't be that as my black/red not connected to the 2 prong plug - not at all connectedQuote:
Originally Posted by MJH
2 prong has an earth and purple to a plug not used ( rev counter maybe?)
So mine should be a DC ignition then?!