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I contacted those guys with the Heist. Nothing personal to them ,but they seem like snobs. We know it is basically the same bike. But they seem to feel a little bit different about their bikes than this bike. If you know what I mean. I had requested to purchase a motor from them and they shrugged me off. But I think if you were just to buy the neat bolt on accessories they sell they do work. But they are pricey.Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
That's unfortunate to here about ccw. Figures a company that slaps a few bolt-ons to a DF250 and called it a "custom chopper" would think they're too cool to help out anyone who simply skipped the middle man.
Ah well. The 250 Rebel engine swap would be very interesting. Hoping for the best in terms of reliability but I'm honestly expecting the worst. This way I'll either be pleasantly surprised or right as usual lol.
Barnone, I noticed you posted a while back about a Magnetic drain plug. I'd really like to get one for the break in, what's the thread pattern on that plug? Thanks in advance.
I have almost 600 miles on my back breaker and havent seen the need for the magnetic plug! Just the normal glitter after the first oil change! I think if u see big chunks that requires a magnetic plug to catch then maybe u need to tear down the engine! From my experience if the break-in is dont gently then u wont need a magnetic plug! Beat the piss out of it for the first 200 miles and u might want that plug! And just some DIY advice go buy some super strong button magnets and glue one to the back of the bolt! It does the same thing as the plug with a magnet already in it!Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
Mine is a 2010 bike. The plug is 12mm x 1.50 Thread
As for whether you need one or not. Thats your call.
My first motor had 20,564 miles on it. Every oil change had some shavings attached to the plug. I like it so it prevents the oil pump from getting clogged. For a couple bucks well worth it. Found mine on ebay.
This second motor has around 5,000 miles on it. The first change had a clump of shavings on the plug. So it leads me to believe that they wear differently and I am glad I had the plug. No motor is the same.
167fmm piston rings gap anyone?
I think cleavland cycledorks have a forum explaining how to do a top end rebuild! Not sure if it mentions ring end gap but might be the same as the honda cg250!Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
[QUOTE=mm+;85991]That's unfortunate to here about ccw. Figures a company that slaps a few bolt-ons to a DF250 and called it a "custom chopper" would think they're too cool to help out anyone who simply skipped the middle man.
[QUOTE]
Not to defend them in any way, but CCW do get their engines supplied from Lifan, whereas Dongfang gets theirs from Zongshen. From what I understand, the engines are proprietary to CCW. I think that is about all they can really get snobby about--their engine. The rest of the bobber seems to be the same as the Dongfang.
ya, im not even going to look. them at ccw seem to me way phony.Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
that said, now that ive compared oem, great wall gears, and panda pistons, they all seem to come with the same gap more or less...
meaning each ive now measured, from different sources, seem to come with the same gap, 18 mil
some have better castings than others, some have different ring spacing, but all the crucial measurements are the same.
Well hello, Bowtie and barnone! It's been a few years since I've been here! I was looking up some info for my bike and noticed you two on here still. I'm sad to say that I am selling my bike :( If anyone in the Metro Detroit area is looking for a lightly used 2010 DF250RTB (864 miles) hit me up. You can see my build on this thread and also on youtube (same screen name). This bike has over 3,000 views from this site @ https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=df250rtb Life happened, and kids, now I have no time to ride it. This bike needs a new lover. It looks just the way it did in my last post with pic. I have a new TC Bros H1 can headlight to go with it. I'm glad to see this thread is still up and current. I really wish I had time to sit and read all the posts from then to now. Barnone, I'll be heading down to the Carolina's in a few weeks, can't wait to get out of the big city. Heading to Myrtle with a stop in Charlotte (home town). If anyone in the area of Detroit is interested in the bike PM me.
Good to here from ya again. Sad about selling your ride, but understandable. Good luck on that venture. Wish I had the funds I may take you up. But as I have been out of work for the past year.( laid off in Sept) not able to do much but keep my baby going. Actually selling a lot of my Hot Wheels collection on eBay right now just to get the cash for a new motor. If anyone is interested in some diecast (username Leftovers-guy). Anyway. Keep up with us anyway. ya never know... you might ride again.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
skullworkz,
Yep, we are still hanging in here. My DF is still running just fine with 5k miles on it. I usually ride my Ural but the DF gets to go to the Dragon at least once a week. My Indian gets a lot of attention at the Gap. I tell them it is a 1918 Indian and they are happy.
Attachment 19678
Dong Fanger's i need your help! Rear sproket is wobbling while riding! I know somewhere in this forum someone talked about the stock sproket not being true but never came back to explain it in detail! I do plan on replacing the sproket with a smaller one but trying to make sure its not something else b4 i tear into it! How hard is it to replace the rear sproket? And if anyone has used bar-end mirrors let me know how they worked and if they look better then the ugly stock ones!
pull the rear wheel, there is a snap ring on the rear sprocket that holds it on the wheel. The four studs are bolted to the sprocket only, and slide into bushings inside the wheel. very easy to take off and switch.But you need a snap ring tool. Attachment 19682
Attachment 19683the knid that opens when you squeeze it. with a large diameter tip for the holes in the snap ring.
Attachment 19684
Attachment 19685
I recommend replacing the studs and checking the bushings if the sprocket is wobbling. Those studs are cheap metal, and since you have it apart better to put on fresh oem honda parts than one or two break and you not know until it is too late. Bushings are oem honda as well. Worth the cost. These are the part numbers for those items. When you reassemble everything be sure that you leave enough slack in the chain. Pinch top and bottom together for about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch squeeze. Also if you get a new rear sprocket, you may need a new chain. Not saying you do, but it depends on the sprocket.
Attachment 19690
After a big run around with the shippers its finally here.
100% gonna need that sprocket change as 1st gear only goes to about 4-5 mph and the thing screams so loud at 40 it makes me nervous :gerg:, also the smaller sprocket will give some room to loosen the chain up a bit.
Right off the bat there's primer that melts inside the gas gap, potentially gunking up the carb. Saw some particles of it floating in my "fuel filter" which is really just a semi transparent plastic cup with no paper filter inside (easy fix).
Definitely need a tach to set my mind at ease when cruising around. Looking at something similar to what Barnone uses.
Other than that the initial fit and finish is much the same as the bikes I see at Japanese and Harley dealers, at least in terms of plastics. Time will tell.
Went for a cruise today, short ride about 15 minutes, very nice weather out here today.
Contacted Belmonte bikes about a broken speedo sensor (at the wheel). Fortunately its covered under their 6 month parts warranty. Bike certainly earns the title "made in china".
I'll be checking valve clearances and adjusting the idle speed shortly. Trying to find the air fuel mixture screw but not sure where to start aside from the carburetor lol. Believe that one of those is the source of my "bog out" in fifth gear today.
Make sure the choke is off when the bike is warmed up. That can cause your bog out.Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
I did not have to rejet my 2012 DF carb. What carb do you have on your 2016 DF? My 2012 has a PZ30 carb which is like the PZ26 at http://www.ccwthariders.com/uploads/...ing_manual.pdf
Attachment 19704
Attachment 19705
Looks like I've got a PZ30. I'd kiss you if it was socially acceptable and we weren't both married. Thanks a million. I'll work on setting the idle speed properly when the wife gets back to watch the kids.
Bike idles nicely, no more sputtering under acceleration. Still getting mean backfires under decelration.
So the Speedo sensor is on the way...
however my tail "daytime running" light and my license plate light no longer work UNLESS I apply the brakes.
Incredibly strange. Where's the fuse-box on this thing? The manuel they sent me is for some sport bike variation called the DF 250 RT
No fuse box that I know of, I think the fuse is in the "electric box". I've never had an issue with it on my two DFs. I'd check the tail light and the wiring connections at the rear of the bike.
http://www.df-motor.com/MLC/Parts%20...0RTB(2014).pdf
Attachment 19713
Half ass wiring diagram.
If your bike has the air injection system, it will pop through the exhaust on decel.Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
Anyone know where to get a evap block off plate for our motor? Cycledorks are out of stock and i cant find anything online!
I love the back fire, gives the bike some depth in the sound dept. I am trying to figure out how to make my exhaust a little louder. I have heard and read all types of suggestions.. I am open to many more if you have ideas, but not sure which would be the best way. Plus I would like to be able to tune it to the throaty sound I am looking for. So do i drill holes? do I remove length? and many more head scratchers.
As for the tail light. I am sure you replaced the bulb right. Reason I ask is this is a hard tail bike. Around here, the roads are harsh. I go through 4 to six bulbs every 3 months easy. Now and again one actually stays together longer than the rest. I have started using LED bulbs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-BAY15D-...53.m1438.l2649
Regular bulbs the filament for the tail light / plate light would always break. I am in the habit now of checking everytime i get on the bike. Just to be safe. Now these LED lights seem to handle the roughness of Houston roads. I only have a problem with the solder breaking on the and they fall apart. But overall the last. I would like to find an upgrade of these types of lights, only brighter. These are equal to the filament bulbs, so not real bright. I am just not sure the terminology 80 SMD 1210 LED Bulb refers to, and I see other bulbs with higher numbers. Makes me wonder if they would be brighter.
From my understanding, the Bobber comes with a flow through exhaust. The only way to make it louder is to shorten it. Shortening it will make it a bit higher pitched as well. Lengthening it will fake a deeper sound by slowing down the flow and muffling the sound a bit. Using a 12-16 inch long 3 inch diameter turn down exhaust tip can fake a deeper note by bouncing the sound off the road but may quiten the sound down. I'm not sure if there is a tip that steps down to the small size of the Bobber's header. It may require a flared adapter. Small displacement singles will never reach that deep rumble of a large displacement V twin.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
I'm posting a link for reference to the 3 inch turn down exhaust tip. I've seen similar ones used on metric twins to try and get that big HD sound.
https://www.amazon.com/StreetStyle-E...17e8ef219a72d8
Bowtiewagon, as far as the taillight goes I'm not too sure. The brake light, plate light, and daytime running light all run off the same light bulb. The bulb itself works fine when the brakes are applied, but the "always on" daytime running light mode no longer comes on. Unless the bulb has two separate filaments that work separately I dont think the bulb would be the issue. Then again, probably a good idea to get as much "china" off the bike as possible lol. My current "final" solution is to wire a second led bulb inside the housing.
Ben2go, I really like the turn down exhaust idea. Next time I'm in an auto parts store I'll see if I can find something to the specs you posted.
Barnone, thanks a million for the manual.:icon10:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
The bulb is supposed to have two separate filaments. one for constant on,the other is a thicker filament which burns a bit brighter for the braking light. So yeah two filaments. The thin one is the constant light, and it is weak on a hard tail. it always breaks first.
Bowtie, you and the other older guys are blowing my mind lol. At 26 years old I was wondering what the second fillament looking thing on the bulb was. Never knew such a thing existed. Certainly puts me at ease. You have a preferred bulb brand and part number? Anything that seems to last a bit longer?
Just keep in mind that you'll need a reducer to go from the 3 inch exhaust ti to the Bobber's smaller header.Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm+
Yeah I left a link in a few posts back. Man you would not know the amount of head scratchin I was doing when these bulbs first started to go out like that. I started checking everything but the bulb. Everything was good. Had to be, when I put a new bulb in everything worked. Hmmm.. oops, check the bulb man. Sure enough I had all of them that blew in a box, and all of them had blown the small filament. Say 5 bulbs. Thats why i went to these LED bulbs. Now perect but a 75% improvement over changing these filament bulbs. The one in there now has some miles on it. so far so good. I carrty about four of them with me all the time.
I started putting some gasket maker on the base of the bulb, so that when it dried, it make kind of a rubber-like coating which makes the bulbs last longer.