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Easy to make one with piece of 1/8" or so thick aluminum. . Remove the pipe and use the gasket for a pattern. Need to cover the vacuum nipple in the carb area where you removed the hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
Attachment 19718
Better photo off the net.
Attachment 19719
I have nothing to cut metal with lol! Ill pay u to make me one! I cant find any available online! Is there any real benefit deleting it off the bike?Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Removing the air injection system will get rid of the popping on deceleration plus the engine should run a little cooler. If you are going to maintain a DF you need some basic mechanical skills. Buy an inexpensive hacksaw,drill, and some drill bits and make your own blocking plate. Aluminum is available at your local hardware store. Easy peasy!Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
Also do a search on this thread for examples of any questions you have. It has almost all been done before.
Ebay and aliexpressQuote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
No, according to "Moottoripyörän Tekniikka" book. Your bike will just pollute more.Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
CG CB based motors? Taobao sells those blanking plates for 5¥
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How about a link to the "blanking plates"? I searched and couldn't find them on Taobao.Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
Thanks
【我剁手都要买的宝贝（发动机排气堵头 发动机欧二排气堵头 RE250发动机废气管堵头 挡片），快来和我一起瓜分红包】，复制这条信息￥m61R0WD0rgW￥后打开👉手机淘宝👈
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My last bike I fitted the plate etc under original fitting so looked connected but no function
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That link isnt gonna work for me over in the states!Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
Bloody hell you're in the States!Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
Unscrew it go to a work shop cut the pipe n weld the damn thing! Don't be lazy!
5 min job if you got off the internet and got your A in to G
Good luck
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Now that would look like poo wouldnt it? I like my toys to look clean and neat not like my 6 year old took the impact drill to the side of it! The plate that cycledorks sell looks thick, clean and only 14$ (when its in stock)! Im not lazy just dont want it to look halfass!Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
Profile cut one, send the gasket to a shop and get them to cut nicelyQuote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
$14 is expensive but ok if you like it that way no issues. You can cut a new gasket but don't cut the whole for air flow and then no flow no function and another way to have it solve.
$15 I can send you this as I've got them in stock - simple and tidy but not super sexy but yeah up to you.
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Attachment 19720Attachment 19721
I call "it" Snot! Maybe u guys can help with some cosmetic stuff? Ammo box for the battery box? Im not military so trying to find something for the electronics to! Any suggestions?
I don't know of a metal ammo box that will fit in that space. Maybe paint the canister olive drab?Quote:
Originally Posted by slightwinner
engine blown yet again... this time a cylinder bolt was burned through because I was never able to find the exact cylinder for this engine.
Oddly enough i didn't actually lose that much compression.
Anyway before i have to fab one, anyone ever seen these for sale?
Boy the 167fmm proves to be a nice "reliable" engine until you actually have problems and cant get "reliable" parts in the states...
-failed valve
-failed piston/rings
-failed/incorrect cylinder
I have to nip this crap at the bud... ive found a Yamaha xv250 with less than 3k miles for $400, and have been speaking to a guy in japan who did the swap.
I hope to get that done over the winter... but for now... cylinder stud anyone?
You would do well to put your expertise into the Yamaha. NO problem on parts and close to 80mpg. That model has been around over 20 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
The main problems are a dirty carb from sitting with today's gasoline and corroded connectors . Sometimes the intake manifold rots from old age.
Attachment 19723
Mine is running just fine.
Fab them all and do some decent hardening. It won't be a problem for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
That way, you will kill two bird with one stone - you'll get your studs AND (which is even more important), you'll convince your lady one more time, that those chunks of cast iron named "South Bend" and "Brigdeport" are NOT clogging garage - they are essential for nowadays household. :icon10:
And don't hesitate to squeeze "Virago's" twin in your DF - it'll be a... "mechanical delicacy".
Here is a forum that might help,if you run into problems,with the Yamaha XV250. ViragoTechForum.com • View forum - Yamaha Virago XV250Quote:
Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorge
yes, machining is only a infrequent hobby, but perhaps this bike alone has justified my lathe, and to less extent mill, more than any other single item i own.
to keep this thing running ive made sprocket studs, gear shift linkage, gear shift stud, brake/clutch lever bushings, decked cylinder head, trued cylinder/head faces, various other fittings to mount replacement head/fog lights.
And now a cylinder stud i guess.. but if you read up on these you will find the consensus that home made isnt feasible.
Proper material, treatment and thread formation is out of my capabilities...
- threads should be rolled, i dont have the equipment
- Home brew hardening is vastly inferior to production, (i went through too many home made sprocket studs due to inadequate hardening)
So basically i don't have the experience to know home made will or will not hold up.
Though here seems i don't have a choice, this stud is not sold.
I suppose a good bet and saved time would be a production bolt of same threading, use that on the head side and then cut and thread the bottom side where conditions are less harsh.
Then again i when i get the stud out, I wont at all be surprised to find an unhardened stud with common cut threads...
haha, there must be 10 posts on this forum with the same pic of barnone on the 'dragon' posting how fine his bike is running...Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
i dont know, for all we know it could be broken down under a tarp in the back of his cabin for the last year... :lol8:
ok Zorge here is the first details of said 'mechanical delicacy'; real motorcycle porn if you ask me
Specifically this was done on the heist but its all the same.
Attachment 19724
further more as i got the practically new engine for only 375$ USD, it leaves me a budget to pick up the 314cc big bore kit when i get back out to asia...
Hope people recall this number when $600+ for a new 167fmm is tossed around. you are entirely correct, the price for this low performance engine in the US is at least 4x what it should be because there is little to no desire for it.
One more thing, when having to change your piston on the 167fmm, note there are interference and non interference fits sold...
In my opinion (and only an opinion cuz ive never had the engine running long enough) the non interference can only shorten life as it is a design for high performance engines that are torn down regularly...
here's a pic, of the two so you at least know what you got even if the people who sold it to you dont
Attachment 19725
notice the oil holes for the gudeon pin
measuring the bore i found it oblong and already out of relative tolerance (relative to the spec the cg 125 defines as there is none available for the 167fmm)
The trouble here is while a 'top tier Chinese' manufacture might be producing the engine, Ive found nearly all if not all of the replacement parts Ive acquired really poor quality.
that said my original engine didn't last 1000 miles either.
also you will find valve spring stiffness night and day between them, i suspect this had something to do with my 2nd engine failure.
If you go with the big bore kit,you will have to bore out the case 2 mm. OEM is 55 mm and the kit has 57 mm sleeves.
Then you will have the problem of feeding it. Forget about any kind of mpg. Horsepower is not free.
I am quoting from 2 people that have done the conversion. They also went with side draft manifold conversion.
One guy used a carb from a 500cc bike. Both had aftermarket exhausts. (drag pipe type).
Just rode it up there today and drew a big crowd as usual. Didn't get a photo but will next time. Just cause you have made a lot of half ass butcher jobs on your DF doesn't mean mine is not running just fine. AXA is now on ignore, much better way to enjoy him. Please do not quote his posts.:lol8::lol8::lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
yup, been considering/following this mode for quite a while. and while im not saying id do it this way, ive seen 1mm taken off an oversized 1/8" thick sleeve at the base to get it in the original case bore. nice option to avoids having to crack open the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN
for since no exhaust came with the engine, ill pickup the 2 exhaust headers since they are cheap and fabricating the rest of the pipes.
moving the carb to the side might be nice as well.
And there is always the wide version of this peanut take if i get tired of having to refuel..
should be fun
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
you see if you quote me you will be forcing barone into seeing what i say, but he is much to sensitive for this so be sure to protect his snowflakiness by going out of your way to remove any info from me.
me, im not that soft, if anyone can tell me what is what and who is who i welcome it, love a debate and use it to build on the backs of giants, improving the easy or hard way.
and when you get tired of hearing about some grumpy old mans sunday drive, you can follow me and read about something cool, or dont, i for one wont tell you what to do, just suggest you dont become a snowflake cuz they melt.
so good riddance barnone, open source in the information age moves on with or without you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
So, basically, you are telling me that you don’t have heat treat furnace and Rockwell tester? No way!
Jokes aside, IMO, you could solve problem with missing stud by recycling some similar diameter old stud. It is already hardened, alright, but I am convinced that carbide thread cutter insert would do the job. Even if you don’t have black belt in cross slide kung-fu and you make generous relief groove, you’ll make more than good enough stud. You can even do the trick by thread cutting with lathe turns in reverse and get spick and span stud.
It’ll hold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
No frame re-tailoring needed – IMO, that’s good portion of job already done. It look to me that also engine is not cramped in the frame, so it won’t te to hard to fit exhaust and carb (on his stock position or this side draft mod you mentioned). In short, this is not the worst engine swap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Did you try to comb some piston manufacturers catalogs? Do some measuring with Vernier and dig in. I’m sure that you’ll find something that fits.
About those oil holes for gudgeon pin... I know that some designers strive to make fit between pin and piston as tight as possible, so all the wobbling when engine runs, happens between gudgeon pin and conrod’s small end (bushing or needle roller bearing, that is).
...So it’s not a big deal if those holes are omitted. After all, if necessary, you can easy drill those holes.
I agree, ill make a stud and expect it will hold, this will make way better go kart engine than motorcycle anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorge
No, there are no catalogs i know of, i have to rely on, in US we have to rely on few online seller and ebay, its a crap shoot.
But my point was the floating pin piston i received was just a poor design, and like u, i notice most all are interference tight fit.
I wouldn't mind an interference fit to have oil holes, i image the aluminum piston expands somewhat more than the steel pin, oil can help any galling.
Again I just reporting the technical detail for anyone who may have the misfortune of trouble with their OEM engine.
Here the outlook is bleaker than I think anyone realizes.