Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

I noticed Zongshen manufactures and overhead cam version of the 250 engine. Did your Yamaha 250 install relatively easily? I'm just thinking down the road and looking for a learning experience more than anything.

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These engines, while OEM'd specifically by Zongshen for Dongfang, are pretty much the same as numerous other Zongshen and other brands' thumpers as found on chinariders.net under the dual-sport and off-road sections. Many members have had good experiences with the engines as long as you don't try to modify them internally. For performance, you are limited to exhaust and carb, and gearing. However, there aren't too many Dongfang bikes on chinariders, so you are really going with advice in general, vs. specific, like you are here; nevertheless, I would read up on the dual-sports to see what people do with various brands' engines (i.e. RPS Hawk and Magician, and Bashan's Brozz, Shark, and Enforcer).

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

I noticed Zongshen manufactures and overhead cam version of the 250 engine. Did your Yamaha 250 install relatively easily? I'm just thinking down the road and looking for a learning experience more than anything.

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if I regularly swapped engines I could tell you if it was comparatively an easy job or not but I don't so can't. with the right tools I wouldn't consider it a difficult job. but I'm not completed yet as other things came up I had to put this away
there are ohc engines that may or may not drop in easier, I couldn't get my hands on one cheap to know.

It appears the ZS350 ZS183FMP is only 30mm wider and 20mm taller that the ZS250 167fmm.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

It appears the ZS350 ZS183FMP is only 30mm wider and 20mm taller that the ZS250 167fmm.

Attachment 19879Attachment 19880

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Hopefully, I will post some photos of my DF250RTA soon. My front disc arm flew off the frame on the fourth ride. No real damage, but I broke the brake line. Needless to say, I went through and checked all the bolts.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

Hopefully, I will post some photos of my DF250RTA soon. My front disc arm flew off the frame on the fourth ride. No real damage, but I broke the brake line. Needless to say, I went through and checked all the bolts.

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had the same happen to me, didn't brake the line though.

so I have to ask you, where are you expecting to acquire, and how much are you expecting to pay for this engine?

then have you explored the serviceability, I mean obtaining parts for this new, likely expensive investment.

I'm curious.

These engines are usually available on Ebay, Alliexpress, or Alibaba etc... I believe the 350 is $1100 on ebay & is used in many ATVs. It can probably be purchased for less if going through Alibaba.

Shineray and Zongshen also manufacture 170 or 177MM? 250cc 4 valve race engines that I think are stated near 25hp at $1100. Just thoughts at this time.

I've also wondered an old Honda cb360 might be a good fit.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

These engines are usually available on Ebay, Alliexpress, or Alibaba etc... I believe the 350 is $1100 on ebay & is used in many ATVs. It can probably be purchased for less if going through Alibaba.


Shineray and Zongshen also manufacture 170 or 177MM? 250cc 4 valve race engines that I think are stated near 25hp at $1100. Just thoughts at this time.

I've also wondered an old Honda cb360 might be a good fit.

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ok. though i think many would say the same thing about the 167fmm.
which is also available on ebay, but at an exacerbated price. Its likely the same case for these engines you're listing.
And considering alibaba, your going to have to do some serious digging to find a distributor that will send you just one engine, and then at a reasonable price. And then cross your fingers that it has the proper epa paperwork to get through customs. i haven't gone through it but dig around and you'll find others that found it needed.

Then when it gets down to it and you finally need a part, its hit or miss...
For example try finding something as simple as push rod for the 167fmm... i finally found one but it took a looooong time.

Anyway, anythings possible, just matters how much you want to give up or how hard you want to try...

Attachment 19914Attachment 19915Attachment 19916

Some photos of my 2016 DF250RTA. I want to thank you fellas that have done all the hard work figuring out what is the best for our bikes. Here are my mods:

-Removed evap & new air filter
-Drilled cat
-NGK Plug
-38 tooth rear sprocket (so much better!)
-110 main jet in my Denki Carb. This made a huge difference for performance. It had an 88! (I used "6 sigma jets" for a kit but could not get it to start with the 42 slow provided). Had a washer under the needle but it seemed to cause a rough idle.

Plans are to get a larger seat and maybe deck the head in the spring. This is a great running bike!

Attachment 19917Attachment 19918

The seats I am considering...

I like the seat on the left. That is initially what the bike came with, but a real cheap version. I changed mine out only due to stress wear and breakage after 20,000 miles. So now the seat I have is similar to the shape of yours shown on the right. I wish I had the old seat back.Way more comfortable on your rear ,especially on bumpy roads.The narrow seat seems to only support a certain aspect of your behind. Both are nice.

Folks, was wondering if anyone could throw out the axle size of the front wheel? (i.e. 12mm?) I am doing research on the speedometer drive gear assembly.

I have a loud clanking in the front end, had to coast with power off to hear it correctly, I then detached the cable and rode a bit and seems to be something with this gear assembly. Not 100% at this time, still a bit more checking to do. Unfortunately the weather is a bit off today, and on the jack cannot bring her to speed by hand to hear anything. Anyway. Axle size anyone??? 12mm, 15mm thanks.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Folks, was wondering if anyone could throw out the axle size of the front wheel? (i.e. 12mm?) I am doing research on the speedometer drive gear assembly.

I have a loud clanking in the front end, had to coast with power off to hear it correctly, I then detached the cable and rode a bit and seems to be something with this gear assembly. Not 100% at this time, still a bit more checking to do. Unfortunately the weather is a bit off today, and on the jack cannot bring her to speed by hand to hear anything. Anyway. Axle size anyone??? 12mm, 15mm thanks.

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Check your spokes and make sure they are tight. If you hit them lightly with a 15mm wrench, they should ring. If they have a thud, check the tightness. They don't require much torque, but they need even torque all around or the loose spokes will click as the wheel rolls with weight on it. I check my V Star regularly by coasting downhill with the engine off. If I hear clicks, I check my spokes and every time there's one or two that are lose.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

I like the seat on the left. That is initially what the bike came with, but a real cheap version. I changed mine out only due to stress wear and breakage after 20,000 miles. So now the seat I have is similar to the shape of yours shown on the right. I wish I had the old seat back.Way more comfortable on your rear ,especially on bumpy roads.The narrow seat seems to only support a certain aspect of your behind. Both are nice.

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bow, I think I still have the stock seat off my DF. PM me if you want it.

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Originally Posted by ben2go

Check your spokes and make sure they are tight. If you hit them lightly with a 15mm wrench, they should ring. If they have a thud, check the tightness. They don't require much torque, but they need even torque all around or the loose spokes will click as the wheel rolls with weight on it. I check my V Star regularly by coasting downhill with the engine off. If I hear clicks, I check my spokes and every time there's one or two that are lose.

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That is the coolest information I have heard on here yet. Never would have thought of that. Yes I will try this.
Is it better to adjust on the ground or in the air?

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

That is the coolest information I have heard on here yet. Never would have thought of that. Yes I will try this.
Is it better to adjust on the ground or in the air?

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I do mine off the ground to take weight off the spokes. There are vids on youtube that show the ringing of spokes when adjusting them.

DO NOT JUST TIGHTEN YOUR LOOSE SPOKES! Your rim needs to be true! If u tighten only one side and wonder why your hopping up and down on your seat then look at your rim! You either need to buy the right tools to do it or just take it to a shop! It's not that easy just banging a wrench on them and tightening them till they ring! You will destroy your rim and possibly break spokes! Do not get back on here and start complaining that your dong fang is junk because you decided to listen to someone that obviously has no clue really what they are doing! When I first read about someone saying tighten your spokes I about died thinking of all the clowns gonna be mad when they can't ride!

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Originally Posted by axa

had the same happen to me, didn't brake the line though.

so I have to ask you, where are you expecting to acquire, and how much are you expecting to pay for this engine?

then have you explored the serviceability, I mean obtaining parts for this new, likely expensive investment.

I'm curious.

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My 2016 DF actually has the CB250 OHC 165FMM which "supposedly" makes more power (cam & higher compression) than the CG250 167fmm. I am surprised...with a 38T sprocket I've reached 64 mph (70 on speedo) and I weigh about 240. You guys have lots of good info on the CG250 but things are more sparse on this board about the CB250. I've seen a performance camshaft online, but no specs are provided.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

My 2016 DF actually has the CB250 OHC 165FMM which "supposedly" makes more power (cam & higher compression) than the CG250 167fmm. I am surprised...with a 38T sprocket I've reached 64 mph (70 on speedo) and I weigh about 240. You guys have lots of good info on the CG250 but things are more sparse on this board about the CB250. I've seen a performance camshaft online, but no specs are provided.

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Doesn't look like an OHC engine in your photo.

Attachment 19943

165FMM engine

Attachment 19944

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Originally Posted by slightwinner

DO NOT JUST TIGHTEN YOUR LOOSE SPOKES! Your rim needs to be true! If u tighten only one side and wonder why your hopping up and down on your seat then look at your rim! You either need to buy the right tools to do it or just take it to a shop! It's not that easy just banging a wrench on them and tightening them till they ring! You will destroy your rim and possibly break spokes! Do not get back on here and start complaining that your dong fang is junk because you decided to listen to someone that obviously has no clue really what they are doing! When I first read about someone saying tighten your spokes I about died thinking of all the clowns gonna be mad when they can't ride!

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I have been doing wheel work since I was a kid, about 30 years. I had no other choice but to repair my own wheels. There's no problems with ringing spokes and tightening them. It takes more than snugging up a few spokes to pull a rim out of true. There is more than one way to do things. If my way is wrong, then 90% of all spoke wheels are at risk of blowing up and killing everyone around. The dealerships and shops use the same technique as I to tighten a few loose spokes. Indepedent shops are where I learned how to repair wheels. These are China bikes. Most of them are not true from the factory. It was uncalled for the way you responded. We try to keep it civil around here.

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Originally Posted by barnone

Doesn't look like an OHC engine in your photo.

Attachment 19943

165FMM engine

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I've not removed the rocker cover, but am thinking it might be possible that my engine is a 165 & 167 cobbled together? The 165fmm (CB250D-G) is listed as a camshaft upward but mine does not have the rocker cover to house the camshaft & chain. So, I bet you are correct. My bottom end is stamped 165FMM.

Here is the link for the 165FMM: http://www.zse.cc/productsdetail.asp...=368&CateID=43

Here is the link for the 167FMM: http://www.zse.cc/productsdetail.asp...=400&CateID=46

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Originally Posted by ben2go

I have been doing wheel work since I was a kid, about 30 years. I had no other choice but to repair my own wheels. There's no problems with ringing spokes and tightening them. It takes more than snugging up a few spokes to pull a rim out of true. There is more than one way to do things. If my way is wrong, then 90% of all spoke wheels are at risk of blowing up and killing everyone around. The dealerships and shops use the same technique as I to tighten a few loose spokes. Indepedent shops are where I learned how to repair wheels. These are China bikes. Most of them are not true from the factory. It was uncalled for the way you responded. We try to keep it civil around here.

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I don't care about your 30 years of backyard wheel work and frankly I don't care about hurting your feelings! There is a right way then theres the backyard mechanic way! Some of the "helpful" information is absolute trash! If your gonna tell somebody how to fix something at least tell them it's the shady way of doing it! Have u forgotten it's 2017 and they do not make rims like they used to! In today's world lighter is better and I know for a fact the rims on these bikes are very easy to bend and retard the true! I will stand strong on my opinion of needing to do it correctly! Go ahead and follow instructions based on saving money and see where it gets you!

Get something like this wheel stand to check trueness and balance. Just clip a pointer on it for trueness.
Attachment 19945
https://www.harborfreight.com/motorc...and-98488.html
Don't forget your 20% off coupon. :lol8:
Also a spoke torque wrench is helpful.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

I've not removed the rocker cover, but am thinking it might be possible that my engine is a 165 & 167 cobbled together? The 165fmm (CB250D-G) is listed as a camshaft upward but mine does not have the rocker cover to house the camshaft & chain. So, I bet you are correct. My bottom end is stamped 165FMM.

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My 2012 DF's 167FMM engine looks the same as your DF's 165FMM engine.

No telling what the Chinese will do.

I painted my valve cover.
Attachment 19946

You need to pull the valve cover and check your rocker arm clearances before you ride it too much.

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Originally Posted by barnone

My 2012 DF's 167FMM engine looks the same as your DF's 165FMM engine.

No telling what the Chinese will do.

I painted my valve cover.
Attachment 19946

You need to pull the valve cover and check your rocker arm clearances before you ride it too much.

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How did you get your ignition where it's at above the rocker cover?

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Originally Posted by barnone

My 2012 DF's 167FMM engine looks the same as your DF's 165FMM engine.

No telling what the Chinese will do.

I painted my valve cover.
Attachment 19946

You need to pull the valve cover and check your rocker arm clearances before you ride it too much.

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Attachment 19947

Yeah, here is the proof in the pudding. Go figure. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by slightwinner

How did you get your ignition where it's at above the rocker cover?

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Just moved it to where the air injection system was mounted.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

Attachment 19947

Yeah, here is the proof in the pudding. Go figure. Thanks!

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I bet your engine is a 167FMM and stamped 165FMM for some reason like EPA approval?
Here it states that the engine is 229.2 ccs which is the167fmm displacement.

http://www.df-motor.com/product_show.asp?id=675

Attachment 19948

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...4a8239deBrjKN7

Has anyone seen this bike for sale by a US distributor? I really like my China bike and would love to get this one in the 300cc. It has about the same wheelbase as our DF and I would think would make more than enough power to go highway speeds.

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Originally Posted by MidMoMan

Attachment 19948

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...4a8239deBrjKN7

Has anyone seen this bike for sale by a US distributor? I really like my China bike and would love to get this one in the 300cc. It has about the same wheelbase as our DF and I would think would make more than enough power to go highway speeds.

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Unfortunately, the US distributor have only received EPA/DOT approval for the 229cc Zongshen-OEM engine. They have the certificate for all their bikes across their lineup that use this engine. On the EPA site, they list their enduros, the bobbers, the cruisers, and their sporty bike etc. on the same certificate! They got their money's worth :thumbsup:

The downside is we won't be seeing a larger engine anytime soon here in the US.

culcune,
You seem to up on all the Chinese engines. Can you explain what appears to be a 167FMM engine on the newest DF250RTB being stamped as a 165FMM? Thanks

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