Don't forget you can also put spacers underneath the fork cap to tighten up the preload. You loose a bit of travel but it may be worth it and it's not hard to do if you're changing the oil anyway.
CC
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Don't forget you can also put spacers underneath the fork cap to tighten up the preload. You loose a bit of travel but it may be worth it and it's not hard to do if you're changing the oil anyway.
CC
Ok, so I put a 20 weight oil in my forks on the weekend. Did it the easy way, and just put the fork upright in a vice, loosened the fork nut, lifted it and poured in what I took out (+10%), which was only 175mL which surprised me. Maybe I didn't get it all out? I dunno, but it certainly seemed like I did.
Anyway, the improvement in handling with a stiffer front suspension is incredible. Not just for stopping either (which I can now do safely without bottoming out) but also for cornering and bumps. I am very happy with it . If you are a large westerner (like me) I can wholeheartedly suggest changing the fork oil. It will give you a much better ride, even for just around town and any idiot can do it (like me). :thumbsup:
The other thing I did while the bike was up on the stand was to turn around the kick stand kill-switch. I find this little device very annoying. Although I understand that is designed to prevent people riding off when the stand down, it is very useful to be able to start the bike up while it is still on its stand so it can warm up while you are gearing up and generally fit-farting around :goodtime:. If you ride off with the stand still down, well, then you're an idiot (like me). :riding:
I was going to remove the switch all together and join the wires together to keep the circuit closed constantly, but when I tried to get the plug out of the housing I stripped the head of one of the little screws (peice of sh*t!) making getting the plug out impossible. So, not wanting to give up, I simply replaced the switch backwards so now it doesn't engage with the stand down.
NOTE:
The first ride after removing the front wheel I lost my front anxle bolt. :confused1: When I put the axle nut back on, I can't remember if I tightened it up properly or not (I probably forgot :asshat:) but just have a look after you take it for a first ride. I have replaced the axle nut with a nylock nut and am using a standard washer and a spring washer. That baby is not going anywhere anymore:gun_bandana:.
The factory reckon the fork oil capacity is 330ml in each fork tube. I think you're supposed to "pump" the forks to expel the oil from the inside of the damping cylinder rather than just let it drain off.
You SHOULD be able to start and idle the engine with the stand down as long as the gearbox is in neutral or the clutch lever is pulled in if it's not. That's how mine is wired up.
You can adjust league off in a hidden location to avoid stealing the bike :naughty:Quote:
I was going to remove the switch all together and join the wires together to keep the circuit closed constantly, but when I tried to get the plug out of the housing I stripped the head of one of the little screws (peice of sh*t!) making getting the plug out impossible. So, not wanting to give up, I simply replaced the switch backwards so now it doesn't engage with the stand down.