the rest of us care forchetto...
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the rest of us care forchetto...
This weekend i went for a ride as I always do,after climbing a hill with a friend ,I heard a loud noise(boom),I didn't realise what was going untill I noticed that the lights were dimmed untill y turned the throtle.The day after I searched for the fault and voila!!!! The batterie exploded,literaly a huge crack at one side. So I'm trying to figure out why could this happen,the first thing I guess it should be a bad regulator,this was after I hitted a considerably bump,maybe the fins inside broke or whatever.
What do you think?
I heard that YUASA is a good brand for batteries ,I need a 12v7A,maintenance free I think?any suiggestion? What comes with a KLR,XR or DT for example?anyone knows?
And finally who know how can I take out the seat to reach the battery compartement that I can't find the dammed screws!!! Sounds simple but I bet they are hidden somewhere?Or maybe is just put with some plastic locks?Any comment would be highly appreciated.
Thanks and we keep in touch !
Alejandro.
Yuasa is very reliable brand of battery, I would put a voltage meter on your bike when it's running just to be sure it's not over charging.
You should also mix up a spray bottle with water and Baking Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda) to neutralize the battery acid that probably splashed all over your bike after the old battery exploded.
Cheers!
ChinaV
thanks for the tip of the soda,and I'll check that regulator ...Maybe the problem was the rpms I reached too much voltage and the regulator couldn't handle it....Any good brand of regulators?¡
bye bye
The regulator should cope with whatever revs the engine reaches. Check that voltage with the engine running, with lights off it should read something between 13 and 15 volts. No more or you run the risk of overcharging.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Did your old battery have a vent hose?. If so was it crushed or blocked in any way?, this could cause the battery to explode. That vent hose lets the build up of hydrogen gas produced as a by-product of the charging process escape.
Make sure you wash off every nook and cranny of the area afected by the acid. It may not seem to have done any damage but any acid left in crevices, etc will corrode its way through the metal.
Do you know how can I take out the seat of an Apollo Orion like dirt bike?I need to change that battery.
I can't fully open the throtle because the bike is just 350km ,I've been told not to do son untill I reach 600km after three oil changes...is this correct?what do you think?
On mine the rear screws that hold the side panels also hold the seat. I have to remove them and then lift and pull the seat backwards to disengage a tab from the petrol tank. It might be different on yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
It's not advisable to use continous full throttle until at least 1000 km are covered and the engine is run-in, it can be used on short bursts though, but the 3 oil changes are not necessary. Perhaps an early one at 3-400 km to get rid of the original low quality Chinese oil and the next at 1000-1500 km when the engine has bedded-in.
What do you think is better to avoid loosing a bolt ?
Loctite red thred locker
Bolts with brake (plastic or metal)
Just a bolt with a pressure washer?
I lost a bolt from one of the screws that hold the engine !
Red Loctite is only for semi-permanent locking. It ¡s very difficult to undo without special treatments, heat, etc. The type to use for us is the Blue loctite 242. This can be removed with normal tools.
For nuts I like to use those self-locking nuts with a nylon insert, but they're no good on hot parts like engines, exhausts, etc and also can only be used a limited number of times before the self-locking properties are finished.
The best locking washers by far are Nord-Lock, but they're very expensive and difficult to find:
http://www.nordlock.com/upload/newmutter2.jpg
http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37
I'll try to find something similar in Uruguay then.
What about that blue loctite,what happens with heat?
Blue Loctite 242 is sold all over the world. It can stand temperatures of -54 degrees to 150 degrees Celsius, so it's suitable anywhere on an air-cooled bike apart from the exhaust nuts and bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2051_108627151
Now I've the battery and it says:
MFA12V7AH
Wuxi Huayan New Power Source CO..LTD
No I'm asking if its the same that batteries free of maintenance they sold for house alarms that are rated 12v 7ah Gel type.
My battery which has exploded has two rows of holes where you can add acid or something like special water.
Which type of battery should I buy?
The best for motorcycles is YUASA, but something like VARTA, ROCKET, etc are also good enough. The important data needed for a sustitution is:Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Volts 12
Capacity 7Ah
Dimensions 150*85*94
Distance between Terminals 120mm
It's important that it has the same type of screw terminals. In this size there are lots of SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries sold for UPS's, alarms, etc with only fast-on type push-on terminals on them. These are not suitable as the current drawn by the starter is excessive for those terminals to cope with.
One of the rows of holes are just the pressure relief valves, the other is the electrolyte filler caps.
You can choose between another wet lead-acid battery or a AGM (absorbed glass matt) maintenance-free battery, where the electrolyte is held in a glass-fibre matting and cannot spill.
Ok I'll keep in touch...
Any trick for washing the motorcycle,specially to take out mud and sand from the fins of the engine!!!?
Just soapy water...no magic solution....
I just use soapy water in a bucket and dip a hand sweeping brush in it and stick it between the fins and other nooks and crannies. Sometimes I borrow the washing-up brush from the kitchen sink for tighter spots...when my wife's not looking of course. Even an old toothbrush is useful for small places.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Do you have any idea on how could I make an inexpensive chain breaker?
Before I had a chain breaker I would grind the pins flat to remove the flared or mushroomed head, and then place the chain over a nut so the pin was over the hole in the nut and tap it out with a centre punch. You have to tap one of the pins a little bit and then the other, go back to the first one again and so on to ensure the link comes out evenly. Eventually the centre punch won't fit into the hole vacated by the pins, so the rest of the way was tapped out with a nail.
Hello,this time I'm writing for a friend who is havind the following problem.
His tachometer,or rpm meter after he turns the ignition key on the needle of the meter goes up to the limit 12000 rmps and stays there,no mater how hard he turns the throttle it seams to be the same the gauge is at 12000.It only goes down when he turns of the ignition key.
SO it seams to be an electrical problem,what do you think? Do you know if they pick up from the alternator output?does it have any micro ,inductive coil pickup?any sugestion how can he repair this?
Thanks
Sounds like an internal fault in the gauge. If it's a Chinese bike it's not uncommon. Gauges are subjected to considerable vibration and a lot of them are not very well made. An electronics expert should be able to examine the internal printed circuit for dry solder joints and dislodged components.
The input signal comes either from the pulser coil or the exciter coil connections in the CDI.
Do you think its a good idea to take out the shaft and flywheel and balance it,some people say that this cures the famous "chinese bikes vibration".Do you think its true?
The cranks are already balanced statically by the maker. It would be better if they were balanced dynamically but this would be very expensive and would require qualified operators to carry this out, so makers don't do it.
A race shop or similar skilled technician could reduce the vibrations considerably using the dynamic method but there would always be quite a bit of residual vibration due to what they call poor primary balance of a single cylinder engine, due to all those masses of piston and conrod being flung up and down at great speeds.
I've found that mine has become smoother after break-in and a lot of the vibes have been cured or at least disguised so as not to numb my hands, by weights on the end of the handlebars and paying attention to the engine mounting bolts. They were undone slightly, the engine allowed to relax and sit down properly on its mountings and then tightened to the correct torque.
Some people improve on this by fitting larger bolts, so that they fit the mounting points on the chasis and engine castings better. Some makers have oversized holes there to ease assembly by making things easier to align. The tighter the fit of the bolts the better the chasis can absorb the vibrations the engine produces.
There's a good Article on engine balance in Wikipedia.
Do you think its possible to increase horsepower in chinese bikes? More compression,larger carb,some special CDI,?
I wonder why chinese are typically 15hp and european(ktm) or japanese(yamaha) are 45hp the same cc?
Do they use better castings?
Don't really know. No-one seems to have really tried apart from basic mods which might add a couple of hp.
The Chinese use old Jap designs, but you'll notice that they limit the revs to a lot less than the Japanese engines they've cloned. Pitbike or Monkeybike engines are a case in point: The old Honda Cub 50 cc engines could rev to nearly 10k rpm, whereas the Chinese limit them to as low as 7500 on some versions. They seem to concentrate on longevity (although I've never heard of a Chinese engine doing great mileages before blowing up...!), and a low fuel consumption.
An example in my own Qingqi QM200 compared with the Suzuki DR200 is that the latter revs 500 rpm higher, has same type of carb, but 3 mm larger and I don't know about the camshaft timing, but the power output is nearly 5hp higher than mine. In my case It can't be made of inferior metals or poorly hardened parts, as the engines are made in the same factory...
oh I see
I’ve tried to take out the water in the carburetor reservoir but the screw that is intended for that it’s really impossible to loosen it, I tried with both Philips and normal screwdrivers but the head of the screw is getting worn. Any idea how can I take this screw out? May I heat it? Is it a normal screw or is it like those that look that a needle at the end?
It’s a mikuni carb.
I think the carburetor is made of some sort of alloy,aluminium or something similar,its grey.
Carbs are made of a high zinc alloy for ease of casting, as they have very complex passages and intricate detail.
The screw for carb float chamber drainage has a sort of pointed end to act as a tap, but it's not as delicate as the idle mixture screw. Support the carb from the other side so that you can "lean" on the carb with a good fitting flat screwdriver in preference to the cross pointed one. You could try with a right-angled driver like these, as you can apply more torque.
Heating might help, but being so close to flammable materials you'll need a very fine and controllable flame or even a large soldering iron with a fine tip.
http://www.elexp.com/tools/06011PK202B-C.jpg
Today I found a place where they dinamically balance with a stroboscopic light the shaft,but they told me I have to send the shaft unnassembled and thats something only a shop could do,due to the complex of job.Is this true?
Why do I have to dissasembly the shaft,flywheel,clutch?