Maybe these symptoms are simply a consequence of the lower autumnal temperatures.
And what do you say, it is rainy in the Isle of Albion?
Well, that's something completely unexpected... :eek2:
Printable View
Maybe these symptoms are simply a consequence of the lower autumnal temperatures.
And what do you say, it is rainy in the Isle of Albion?
Well, that's something completely unexpected... :eek2:
Hi WirralGhost Hunter, I know what you mean by the slow disengagement of the drive. I have noticed the same but not enough to stall so I have learned to live with it. I am not a mechanic but would it be the clutch mechanism in the transmission case?. Maybe the drive belt is not fully riding up the drive plate at idle ?. I hope you can solve it. That would be a real pest in traffic. I am interested where you plan to put your added driving lights on the Moto because I urgently want to upgrade my driving lights. Here in Perth WA we are forecast a wet Spring after a cold winter thankfully just about ended. Good Luck. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
Scooters and their transmission systems are not my cup of tea, but, based on my basic knowledge of it, I could have guessed that a little stiffer springs of centrifugal clutch would solve the problem.
I just took a photo of my extra stop lights.Attachment 8738Attachment 8739Quote:
Originally Posted by ethron
Hey ethron, nice job with your extra stop lights. My upgrade wont be as elegant.. I have a sealed stop/tail/plate led unit ordered which I will bolt to the outside of the box. As to the extra driving lights, these are small led projector type units, I have a couple of ideas where to mount them, but wont know for sure until they arrive. I will post pics here for you to have a look at, and also let you know how the lights perform. I was going to go down the route for "proper" HIDs as per bikerdocs upgrade, but the law he in the UK wont let me - risk of heavy penalty :taz:
This is the road test review that sold me on the Jetmax, you may have read it yourself already, but just in case :mwink:
http://www.scootersales.com.au/News-...tmax-250i.aspx
Rainy - understatement.. We had a months downfall in one day.. My one hour commute home in a torrential downpour included riding through five separate flooded sections of road. The poor old Jetmax was literally past its floorboards deep in water. One policeman at the second one obviously thought I wouldn't make it, he gave me a nod and thumbs up at the other end. And its hammering down again today. On a plus note - the scoot didnt let me down:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorge
Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
fuuny i read the same report and got one as well but the jetlux ??? same bike diffance skin just about to order a back boxs for mine as well
Guys, if you ride through any volume of water high enough to reach the rear drive unit/transmission please know that you will likely flood the inside of the casing, leading to slipping of the final drive belt and poor adherence between the drive belt, variator pulley surfaces and the rear clutch mechanism. Keep in mind there are breather hoses and what not that also are found around the rear transmission. Moving through water high enough will likely make it's way into these hoses and various orifices. If the transmission makes contact with water as in the case of riding through flooding, then it's a good idea to open up the drive casing to allow drying and possible cleaning of the interior components etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
As for stalling as described in this thread, once the engine has reached operating temperature; I'd check filters first e.g. the air filter first, fuel filter and then if need be the spark plug. There are so many possible causes (bad fuel) but checking filters first is a start. I've done 45000km on my Jetmax and never had stalling issues once the engine has "warmed up" and only on very odd occasions when the engine is still cold and having not reached operating temperature. If nothing obvious can be found, then have your dealer check the ECU using their ECU programmable plug-in device.
Jetlux uses the same engine and some of the same running gear as the Jetmax. However is has completely different "tupperware" smaller wheels, and lights amongst many other differences. The Jetlux is slightly lighter, and offers less protection from the elements in comparison to the Jemax. Some of the features of the Jetlux I like, but many I do not. YMMV.
Thanks for the info on the Jetlux. I looked up the pics and seems a great design other than (as you say) the weather protection is not there as enjoyed on the Jetmax. It certainly looks like a good ride though. I guess I should have added on a previous post that my drive seems to disengage a bitlate and is mainly before it has warmed up properly. When I got the Jetmax it came with a short windscreen (something about Australian Standards???) so I got the dealer to order a tall screen and only paid A$90 for it. I have also added a Laminar Lip to the screen which tends to shoot the turbulance over the helmet. On very gusty windy days I'm aware that my Moto gets pushed around a lot and am wondering if the Top Box and taller windscreen has added to the "white knuckle" rides. I am wondering if others get pushed around on these type of days ?. It has only been one day that I had to leave the Moto at my visiting place and get the train home as I got blown almost into the adjacent lane and scared the #*%# out of me. I used to ride Triumph Thunderbird, Norton, AJS, Matchless and BSA bikes a fair while back and let my license lapse but I can't remember being blown around much at all. Maybe the "wall" of plastic, front and side on does not help. I wonder if Bikerdoc would mind showing the procedures for removing the panels to access headlights. I am a bit wary if I break any plastic tabs or clips etc. would appreciate. I have attached a photo of the flexible LED strips I inserted under the red plastic on the top box. They can be cut at intervals of 3 LEDs where you can have any number . Soldering is easy at the copper dots. Each section of three cost me $A2.75 so it was no big deal. Cheers .Attachment 8745 http://www.laminarlip.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdoc
hey bikerdoc thanks for the heads up on that one, I will re-attempt to remove the casing again when the weather allows. I want to give it an oil change anyway. One thing you may be able to help me with, I was reading your posts and you recommend hypoid gear oil for the transmission - which makes perfect sense to me - but my manual recommends engine oil - could you let me know which spec hypoid you used.Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdoc
I can buy Shell 80W/90 here in PRC, without too much effort. It's not available everywhere here, but at least one of the stores that I shop at stocks it, so I buy a few tubes of the oil as needed. Currently have 4 tubes sitting on a shelf in my garage. Same as this gear oil sold in bulk via Taobao http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=9229848577&Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
FINALLY!
Blood, Sweat, Tears...............
Well not quite but nearly..
I got the trans cover off today.
Scoot has around 2.5k miles and I wanted to give the trans an oil change before winter sets in.
The oil I drained out was milky :confused1: is this normal?
Any how, 250ml fresh oil in and I also added 50ml of ZX1 micro oil. I have been using this for years on my cars and I am impressed with the results.
Next oil change for the engine will get similar oil treatment.
While the trans was apart I gave it a good clean with MuckOff degreaser and a hose down, finished of with compressed air.
Tomorrow, weather permitting is a plug change.
Attachment 8799Attachment 8800Attachment 8801Attachment 8802Attachment 8803
Yes....Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
When the water is mixed with oil. :icon10:
BTW, since you check from time to time Jetmax's buoyancy, have you considered to apply gasket marker on a tranny cover?
No, its not normal Rob. I'd say that there is either water that has got in and mixed with the gear oil or else they have used some odd type of oil which might be possible. Might be worth taking a sample of the oil to your dealer to check. Otherwise, run the new oil for 500-1000 miles and then do another change out. Oh and pay attention to riding through areas that are flooded or where the transmission bathes in water. BTW did you take the variator pulley off and check the condition of the 6 roller weights and the variator ramps (the location where the roller weights sit and slide up and down the "ramp" by centrifugal force as the variator spins) If not it is a good idea to do so, as both the roller weights and the ramps suffer wear. I'd suggest replacing the roller weights with "sliders" which are a wedge type of shape, and likely due to the design to cause much less friction between the surfaces of the slider and the variator ramp and ramp walls.Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
As you pile on the miles eventually you will likely find that the scoot will experience a point in time where it feels as though it trying to take off while stuck in a different gear as though it was a manual transmission. AT first this might happen only periodically, but as the mileage increases it will become more frequent. This phenomenon occurs when trying to move off from a standstill, the scoot will be real sluggish as though it is in a higher gear. Once it gets some momentum it might feel as though it changes down a gear and comes right. What is likely happening is that one or more of the roller weights has/is becoming worn and likely scoring out part of the variator ramp wall too. This causes the affected roller weight to get stuck or caught in a fixed position within the variator thus not returning the centre of the variator as it should. The roller weights need to have free movement up and down the variator ramp. The roller weights are constructed from an alloy with a synthetic surface coating which is likely heat and friction resistant, but does wear out over time through use. When this coating is lost or separates exposing the alloy, this causes the alloy to "cut into" the variator alloy surface causing gouging to occur which in turn hinders the movement of the roller weight leading to loss of proper centrifugal movement and impeded functionality.
Just saying..,
I don't think this is an option, the cover is designed in such a way that it is vented. Good idea tho'Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorge
Hey Dennis, I asked the local bike shop about the oil, they reckon it may be that engine oil was used in the gearbox (although Jetmax manual recommends this), I have since refilled it with gear oil and will report back when I change it again in about 1000 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdoc
As for the variator, I just couldn't pull it off the splines! I think I may need a puller to just break it away. I have asked the "dealer" (and I use the term loosely) about sliders - and you've guessed it - nothing....
The unfortunate thing in the UK is that Chinese scooters/bikes as only sold through "box movers" there's no service at all, they are assumed to survive the 12 month warranty period and then you are on your own.
I will try and investigate the slider option, as I believe prevention is better than cure.
EDIT - I also swapped out the spark plug for the Iridium variant - I will post on how it performs...
Attachment 8824Attachment 8825Attachment 8826Attachment 8827
Hi WirralGhostHunter, I have just replaced my 35 watt halogens with 55 watt globes on my Jetmax and I notice the lens gets rather hot. I did not feel the lens with the lower wattage in so I can't compare. I am a bit concerned about the reflector etc being damaged . Can anyone let me know. Regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
You've probably heard of something called Murphy's Law ...
Hi ethron, I think I recall bikerdoc doing a similar mod before he went the HID route, and he commented on the wiring getting rather warm, I always refer to his posts before I tackle anything (he's virtually taken his Jetmax apart, so he knows it quite intimately. Because of the crazy laws in the UK, I couldn't chance swapping out for HID's, but I did find some alternatives lamps ( I posted them here ). These give a really bright white light compared the the standard yellow light. Although not HID's, they do a really good job. Perhaps I will try and make a night video to show how the perform....Quote:
Originally Posted by ethron
Well today I gave my trusty steed her 3000ml/4812km engine oil change. I check the oil daily and she doesn't seem to burn any, so today I thought I would measure what came out - exactly 1.5 ltrs... The workshop did it last time so maybe they added a little more than they should have - so as I put in exactly 1.5 ltrs, I'll see what comes out at the next change and let you guys know (I've dipped into the oil filters bikerdoc sorted for me :thumbsup:)
The scoot hasn't stalled on me - I give it a little longer to warm up now - and I feel the iridium plug was well worth the change.
I have some more little mods I plan on doing next week, as the days are getting shorter, nights longer and its getting bloody colder too.
The first simple mod is to fit my new handle bar muffs, they wont make my scoot look any more elegant, but even with winter gloves on, my one hour commute each way is making my hands very, very cold....
I have my new stop/tail light to fit as well, I think I have a position sorted out for this (at present my top box shrouds the brake light. I also have some rather smart mini projector LED running lights (these are freaking bright), I still need to work out where to fit these. Any how here's some pics, I will post again when they are all fitted. Ride safe guys..
Cheers WirralGhostHunter for the reply. I should have said the 55watt halogens are not HID. I just love your Stop/Tail idea and what a great spot for it. My LEDs are Stop only and I would like the Tail light to be on the box as well. I may get one of those LED units. I wanted to upgrade the "running lights" which are dull little push fit globes but found the LED clusters will not fit through the lens hole. Same with the amber flashers, a 20watt globe will not fit through the lens holes and I am thinking of getting LED flashers which are mounted each side higher than the 10watt standard flashers. I have just come back from a ride, only about 20 km and the headlight glass was hot. I just wish I had felt the glass after a ride with the standard halogens fitted. I might be a bit paranoid on this but I don't want them to blow or damage the lens. The higher wattage halogens are heaps better showing a whiter light and further beam. Cheers to All
Hey ethron, next time I do a night ride I will see what the temp on the lens is like and get back to youQuote:
Originally Posted by ethron
It was dry and warm today, I wanted to take my cruiser out but it was my turn to wait in for a delivery:rolleyes1:
Well this was the time to fit my new eye level stop/tail light to my scoot.
All pretty easy, rear box off, tupperware off, connect and route cable, put everything back together. I'm pretty pleased with the results :icon10:
Next job on the agenda - LED Running Lights - stay tuned!
Attachment 9046Attachment 9050Attachment 9049Attachment 9047Attachment 9048
The original 35/35W halogen bulbs also make the polycarbonate lenses a little warm to the touch when the headlights are switched on. There is likely little difference in the heat intensity between the manufacturers supplied stock 35/35W & the 55/60W that are usually installed with most vehicles, that said though, one does have to pay attention to the stock headlight wiring as I mentioned in my Jetmax related thread. My advice would be to periodically check on the headlight plugs for signs of melting due to heat. I wanted to swap the headlight wiring harnesses for new ones after swapping the standard 35/35W for 80/100W (which were drawing to much for the stock wiring), but CFMoto only sell the harnesses complete with the headlights. The headlights also contain the plastic fairing parts. So when I ordered the harnesses I got a spare pair of headlights just to get the headlight wiring.
In terms of the park lights, I also swapped them for some LED's which do the job and are certainly better than stock. I wanted to actually have a pair or set of LED's up front that I could use for daytime riding, without having to have the headlights switched on. Unfortunately the cost to buy the single LED 5W was way more than I was willing to pay and there's no guarantee that they'd provide much more light. I occasionally only ride with the LED's upfront, but usually resort to having the HID's on, which are so much brighter.
As for the rear and the setting of the tail-light/stop-light being set quite low, there is an alternative as I found out, without having to spend a whole lot of money. I just recently purchased a new ADLO 2012 model topbox (www.adlo.net) that integrates a LED stop light into the top section of the top box. I've wired that into the stop-light wiring and it works real nice. ADLO have a couple of other models that incorporate the LED stop-light also e.g. models "2013" & "929" which are about 42L versus the "2012" 37L. ADLO go by the name BESTEM overseas, so it might be worth shopping round, as the prices for the BESTEM are still way cheaper than many other top box brands in overseas markets.
Good install with I'm sure will be effective. I'd made mention that there is a brand that manufactures some nice top boxes without the exorbitant costs often associated with some of the better branded top boxes (ie. GIVI). ADLO is one such brand, although they market globally as BESTEM, which maybe another company that just buys ADLO boxes and re-badges ADLO's or has the BESTEM name added ex-ADLO. As for cold weather riding with the Jetmax, snow hasn't stopped me from riding, and pleasantly with the handlebar muffs in place you will likely find there is a stream of warm air that ascends up from the front tupperware (radiator) and out through the plastic handlebar covers directly near the handgrips. With handlebar muffs on you will find that they combined with warm flow of air are really comfortable. The handlebar muffs also keep out the rain too. In the winters here in -4'C I'm often riding wearing leather fingerless gloves on with no ill effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
Those small single LED's I considered buying and drilling out some holes either to the side or at the bottom of the headlights and installing there to give a nice manufactured look, but never got round to it. Curious to see how you might get on with the install and fitment of your LED's.
I wish I would have gone for one of these, it would have saved me a lot of faffing about.Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdoc
LED running lights installed and working - time 2.5 hours (including tea breaks and bacon butty).
All pretty straight forward, tupperware off only on the right side and I was able to tap into the wiring and fit everything.
Final photo shows them switched on, doesn't look much, but remember the stock side lights are also on and they are not visible.
In the flesh they are really bright, I cant wait to try them out tonight. Lets see if I get any more "sorry mate, I didn't see you" excuses now.
Ride Safe :riding:
Attachment 9055Attachment 9056Attachment 9058
Attachment 9057Attachment 9059
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvQuote:
Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter
Hi Bikerdoc, Thanks for the info on the 55watt halogens. I'll take what you said on board. I agree with you on the integrated ALDO boxes but hasn't WirralGhostHunter done a great job on his box. I have seen on the web flexible LED strips with dual density (stop/tail) in the center and amber array at either end. I'll definitely do something to improve the running lights as WGH has done. Just wondering if you get very windy days and how it pushes you around on the Jet Max ?. I seem to get some white knuckle rides in strong gusty winds and I suppose the higher screen and the rear box isn't helping. Cheers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdoc
Yep indeed WGH has done a fine job of adding the extra LEDs on the rear end ;)
Ethron if you can find either ADLO or BESTEM top boxes where you are check for the models that have the integrated stop/tail light. There are a few other Chinese boxes available abroad but depending on who is doing the importing the "brand" names often vary. A search on ebay and craigslist or similar may very well turn up some of the cheaper than Givi branded top boxes. I know Shad top boxes are out there and having seen a number of models in person in NZ can recall at least one model with an integrated stop/tail light - not the cheapest though, roughly half the cost of a comparable Givi branded box, but double most good quality Chinese boxes IMHO.
Can't say that I have noticed much buffeting with cross winds, but then perhaps that would vary based on wind velocity, tyre pressures, tyres themselves, riders weight, bike weight, top box, and bike ergonomics etc. I run larger than standard tyres, have fitted a seat cushion of sorts so consequently sit about 3cm higher, I weigh 95kg, stand 182-183cm tall, carry a lot gear under the seat (tools which I tend to use for others, air compressor, and other odds & ends). All this would tend to make the bike behave differently.
A picture is indeed worth a thousand words
Attachment 9125