So bike is originally DC
But it seems I have the AC stator with halve the AC volts going to the coil?!
If I change one color wire to the Reg to the black/red meaning 240v AC would I fry the reg????
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So bike is originally DC
But it seems I have the AC stator with halve the AC volts going to the coil?!
If I change one color wire to the Reg to the black/red meaning 240v AC would I fry the reg????
One of the connector of the two plugs is for power supply, the other is a kill switch or sometimes called flame out in an AC unit, it cuts off there in a DC the switch is not on the CDI its left empty. I would say the rev counter would be off the coil not the CDI. The coil itself is connected to the CDI one of the other four plugs. Then the rev counter would be down the line off that.
You’re getting power through the black wire, where is coming from?
I read that most DC CDI have the second plug on the CDI empty, but some claim not always. I cannot see how that connection could run a tachometer, it would need pulses off the coil and relative increases to result in increases, what would a constant voltage do for a tach?
Trace the black wire if it goes to the R/R and the kill switch it’s a DC set up. Then the yellow to yellow is only feeding one third of the voltage and likely cannot keep up over idle?
You know it is possible the tach is running off that, the voltage increases with revolutions of the stator. So as your rpms increase so does the voltage, the tach could use that. It’s not common though, to be set up that way. The source of the black wire will tell you what you have. I think a new harshness might be easier if it is DC. They have complete harnesses and CDI, Regulators and coils.
does your R/R look like this one?
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...440444145.html
This is what powers a DC CDI
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...248872536.html
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...#q=three+phase
So do you think you can just give her it all at once?
The seller of Shineray parts on taobao tells me it's DC type - so then if I go by your pics it's the wrong coil or wired wrong
This bike is mad!
Now it won't run without a battery yet the other day it would
Now I get 15v AC at the yellow wire also the pink running or not at the Stator plug.
And yes and it reads 7.4v DC at the same time (Change the setting on the multi meter between AC and DC both show a reading)
The black/red no longer has any voltage running or not (At stator plug from engine)+
The Blue/White trace is trigger so if it runs can't be wrong?
It's all changed to the weekend.
A wild guess stator is wrong or screwed up or regulator faulty
Or is it all messing with my head!,
Attachment 18251
Bike even runs without the regulator connected???
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This is the CDI for the newer CB150 cvtt motor.
Genuine Shineray
But is it a little different like ignition curve or is the function totally different as in AC or DC?!
I'm going mad!
Ok weirder then weird.
If i swap Phases at the stator plug i can either make the bike run with a battery or without.
both phases ready 15v AC at the stator plug and regulator, BUT 30V AC at the red wire or black wire at the Regulator - What am i testing wrong or missunderstanding or is my Stator all messed up? 30v should be OK to get a charge for the battery. But is it enoigh for my DC ignition as well?
NOW the Black/red has NO voltage at all yet yesterday had 240 volts AC
You really cannot hook them together, they are not interoperable all you are doing is powering parts of circuits and without much regard you will burn some of it up, blow some fuses….
You are way outside of plug and play.
You have a five wire rectifier, its missing a third yellow, so that is its own type.
Obviously there are lots of way to configure the electricals…
You may want to get a harness and rewire it to the new engine. You would need an AC R/R, CDI and Coil, good thing is that the engine you now have seems to be the most common type. The stator wiring on it is for AC and seems to use a common color code.
r/r: That black wire in center is known as "control" (Take sample from + ) http://sanxin.com.cn/Exhibit/exhview.asp?pid=39 | http://sanxin.com.cn/info5/index.asp?id=7
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Some BAD designed 5-wire r/r are killed by relay... http://fanyi.baidu.com/transpage?que...e=url&render=1 #6
So you connected the Yellow to yellow and the white to the other yellow?
Then what do you get off the red 12V?
The red off the RR feeds the battery and the black would be the ignition wire.
I think that type of RR is what they call universal DC and it takes the AC feeds and converts them to 12V DC?
I would be very concerned about the 240v red and black being free…
I switched wires at the stator end plug
The bike was all original to engine was swapped out so I'm picking it's all at the stator end - maybe wired wrong or faulty but even that's not certain
If both wires yellow then it can't matter what goes into it? Or they would each be different.
Maybe I can try the 240v AC unsteady if a 15v AC see what happens
Or just buy the 80¥ genuine stator see what that's like and test outputs etc
I can't clearly say that the stator is the correct type or if it's got the right connections at the end of the wire without correct info or wiring diagram or another stator
It all tests partly right and wrong and it could be correct or not correct
Yet the end result is a bad runner without knowing why
I believe what you had originally is called a full wave stator and the R/R is called a 4 Diode Rectifier.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...714331436.html
That link is not to yours it is only so you know what type of charging system your bike is wired for. From it having only two yellow leads at the R/R that is the conclusion I drew.
Seems I can't get correct Voltage outputs details for my bike
Best I bite the $12 bullet and try a genuine Shineray part
I see no other way but to get a genuine and the plug should match the bike
The bike had issues once engine replaced
It could well be that I need to connect the 240ac wire or that connecting it will work but I have no idea where too
I don't like just swapping out parts as that limits learning and leaving information trails on the net
But what else can I do if I don't know the correct part or output?
That must be that somehow you managed to power to the CDI directly off the Stator.
Your power should be coming from the R/R through the black connected to the battery and to the red + at the ignition switch.
If you get a new stator it should have only two yellow leads and green and blue. Your CDI only wants a constant 15v DC and the supply is off the R/R that is getting feed ? AC off two yellow leads off the stator.
In that you have to consider the difference between AC and DC, AC is waves and DC is flat. Hey electricity is electricity and since you are powering a capacitor it will take it, but the results will not be what is desired. That CDI wants a constant 15V DC not waves of AC.
How about an image of the original plugs and wires for the connection(s) to the stator.
Finding a stator of that type will not be easy, it will need to have that wiring and the correct mounting for your engine.
Finding a stator of that type will not be easy, it will need to have that wiring and the correct mounting for your engine.[/QUOTE]
Genuine stator on the way - I live in Chengdu do not that far from Chingqing where the factory is
Attachment 18254
Seems the bike should have a CB150
Not CG 150
I suspect totally wrong ignition curve
Attachment 18255
This is from the factory manual and shows engine code
Attachment 18256
This is the wiring diagram yet missing gear selector switch for all gears
Attachment 18257
Ok and I'm on a seller that can program a CDI - needs to be a DC CDI with the ignition curve of a CG150 if I'm not wrong
Most programmable is NOT a CDI. It's TCI http://www.sportdevices.com/rpm_read...DI_and_TCI.htm that NEEDS different ign coil (ex suzuki GS/GN…) & reliable DC supply...Quote:
...Ok and I'm on a seller that can program a CDI - needs to be a DC CDI with the ignition curve of a CG150 if I'm not wrong
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I believe this - the seller is in Gz
Confirmed! 100% the bike wasn't made for a CG based engine!
My mate (here but I won't mention the name) have a bag of papers including parts manual
Page 1 shows over head cam! Not what is in the bike
So either I rewire a bit to CG based ignition and maybe rr or get custom CDI to suit the CG ignition curve!
What a headache!
I am not so sure they are so different, an adjustable CDI can manage the differences. You can get them with a USB interface and software to set different advancements.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digit...708.4.2.nX9DO4
I wonder about the mounting more and if the wires match up. I would not be so confident that all of the X1 were wired up the same or that what they send you is what you really need, will it share the same bolts and clearances?
I have never seen a CDI specify it was for CG or CB….or even 125cc or 200cc. The trigger is mechanical and its more concerning to me then the curve set in the CDI.
Even if it blots in will the ZS bell housing fit and will the trigger work properly?
One type
Second type
They may have used consistent ignition wiring or not?
CG and CB motors interchange as far as the mounting points go.
I wonder if the flywheel side cover stator etc will go on as the CB is an OHC based on the CG bottom end
I'll tell go to the motorbike parts market and see - plenty shops with every motor part for these engines.
Or I'll try custom CDI or I will need to diva bit of a rewire to change to the other charging CDI system - pics you gave should show enough info
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I'm told this will suits as they custom make it?!
Anyone good at Chinese and can translate abit?
And the Odyssey continues...
http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/eating/popcorn.gif
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I'm told this one - not sure if they would change the ignition curve or not - if I could get a cheap common one to try would be ok
Did you thought about those adjustable just by using tiny screwdriver?