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I believe the Yamaha dealership closest to you is in Weifang. Here is the link. It might be worthwhile to go check it out if you haven't been there already, they might have accessories you would be interested in. On the map, it looks like it's 100-120km from Zibo.
DS
That is indeed a good looking dealership but I needn't go that far. I will simply return to the one here in Zibo (4kms away) and demand one. Zibo's dealerships are small and kind of pathetic (no R1s or R6s on display) but I'm sure they'll have something I can scrounge.
hi DipStick,
will be in shanghai for the rest of the week. since it is not possible to get ybr250 spares in lhasa - could you provide your shanghai dealers address please? btw about 160.000km on my (11) ybr's by now. no (major) problems.
tx
heiri
www.asiabiketours.com
Hi Heiri,
I have read your threads when I first came on to MCM and wanted to find out more about the YBR250. Quite an impressive trekking !
The only official Yamaha dealership according to Yamaha China is at 555 Zhongshan Nan Er Lu. That's one of the ring roads, so it's in the south part of it, close to the intersection with FengLin Lu. Chinese address is 上海市中山南二路555号. The phone number is 021-64046812.
There is an English speaking sales lady, very nice, by the name of Nancy. Chinese name is Chen Ying.
The place is easy to spot: aside from the big red Yamaha Plaza sign above the store, you will also see a line of Yamaha police motorcycles on the sidewalk awaiting/coming out of repair!
I hope you find the parts you need. Good luck!
DIpStick
*** Bike update ***
Firstly, Dipstick, the blue sticker on the dash began to blister sometime after 10K km so I picked at it and it peeled away smoothly to reveal the metal surface beneath. No more dash clashing! Good news right?
Since the last accident claimed my original guages I now have 3500km on the clock. Add that to the 9500km I had on there and I will have covered over 13K by now. Since I crossed to 10K line a few things have happened that I'd like to list for posterity.
I don't know when it happened by my fwd starboard fork seal has kicked the bucket. I only discovered the problem when the fork had just about leaked the last drip of oil so I'm expecting to find a mean glob of sludge in there when we crack it open today to replace it. Fred had a fork seal leak sometime around 10K too. It's something a YBR owner can probably count on so if you do plan to get a YBR in China then buy a spare seal early and keep an eye out for leaking oil from around 9K or even earlier if you fancy. At least the oil didn't leak onto my front disc brake.
I ordered a couple of new ones from taobao (because the dealership takes too long) for about 40 each. In the picture it shows two of them but I found out that 40rmb only gets you one. I only need one right now but I have a spare for the future. I have bought a bunch of other YBR stuff from this shop and it's all been satisfactory, including:
- New guages... destroyed when I hit that car.
- New handlebar... replacing the old one today. I could never get it perfectly straight after the last accident.
- Several oil filters... a tad expensive at 80rmb but they are genuine and do a necessary job.
- Spare Clutch and brake levers... the first thing to get damaged when the bike gets dropped.
- New rear tire... very bald looking after 10K of riding back a forth down terribly straight roads.
- Spare air filter... I am still rocking the old one, cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol (C3H80) every once in a while.
- Spare battery... the old one is still good after 18 months despite the dealer quick charging it to begin with.
- New brake pads... completely bald and a bit squeeky before 10K. TIC.
- Spare disc brake... I thought the old one was bent after the last accident but it turns out it's actually fine so I haven't changed it.
Besides the fork there have been some minor issues.
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The engine sounds nice but develops a slightly metallic sound based on where i go for petrol.
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The horn began dieing after 10K. Fred had the same problem. I swapped it for another one costing 8rmb. It's a bit louder and so far so good. You can't ride around without a horn in China. It's the only thing that 85% of the people respond to because they dont' know how to use there eyes.
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I might replace the ignition key someday.
I noticed, only recently, that the retractable flap that covers the key slot has become stuck, leaving the key slot open 24/7. I don't know how this happened but it may be the reason for the dirt getting into the slot and interfering with the key connection issue. I spray a bit of WD40 in there weekly and have since had no problem with that.
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The headlight began cutting out a while ago and I forgot to report it. I'd be riding along at night and whenever I yank back the accelaration handle the headlight would just cut out. Sometimes it would and sometimes it wouldn't. Papa Smurf examined the whole headlight inside and out using his amp measuring device to test the current but eventually discovered the problem inside the... this thing:
Attachment 8018
Anyway, the problem was solved, it only took a minute and it was free. I didn't see him replace anything and he doesn't charge for labour. All I can say is that the inside of it was very dirty but when I asked him if that was the problem he said it wasn't. I watched him take it apart and put it back together but didn't see what he actually did. He described the problem to me several times over but I couln't work out what he was saying. My android's dictionary can only work with 'ou tong hua' and I think that Papa Smurf only knew how to say it with 'fang yan'.
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Last thing; It was coming up on the time I wanted to change the rear tire and before I lost the chance to do so, I wanted to have a go at burning up the old tire like you see them doing 'on the TV'. Just slam on the front brake and 'jia you' right? It was a disaster but at least nobody was around to see me do it. Here's what happened:
The front brake was locked as tight as it could go, the revs were around 7-8K and the rear wheel was spinning a little but the front tire lost grip and began sliding. So there I was, going forward at about 10kph with the front wheel locked and the rear wheel half-spinning and half-gripping. The rear tire looked almost bald but it still had too much grip! I didn't want to wear down the front tire so I gave up. I was just getting ready to go back when, at that time, I suddenly found that although I was in gear I wasn't able to move the bike. I put it in and out of gear and tried to go again but nothing. The engine was running fine but I'd done something to the clutch. I panicked, not knowing what harm I'd done to the poor bike but in the end the problem was fixed by adjusting the cable at the point right next to the clutch lever. I wasn't sure how that had happened but that's how it went down.
If I were to try that again, I'd probably position the front wheel against a wall then apply the front brake and try again. I'd probably end up riding up the wall and landing on the ground with the bike on top of my head though. It's too much effort, sod it.
I love this bike but I'm still saving up for something bigger. There are more and more roads around here that are a little too big for a 250.
Soberpete, once again, how old are you? C'mon... to burn up old tire... :lol8:
Nice write up Pete! Next time dump the clutch quicker on the burnout and take more weight off the rear of the bike! Question is Benelli CFmoto or other bigger bike?
Dear Zorge,
Even when I reach 60 I still intend to be childish. I'll be the motorbike riding grandad who is always doing things one wouldn't appove of.
P.s. Call me Pete
*** Bike update *** ...because I forgot to mention two things.
1st thing: 90% of the time now the bike won't start unless I hold the clutch in. It's in neutral, yes, and after I let go of the clutch the bike doesn't lurch so it isn't false neutral either. This has only begun to happen in the past month or so. No big deal but it's all for posterity.
2nd thing: I can squeeze the front brake lever at about 95% and the rear light still won't come on. The dirt get's in there too easily and blocks the connection. I've had it cleaned out before but it was only a month or so before the issue comes back. I don't mind this though because I always apply both front and rear brake when slowing and the rear brake pedal brings the light up without any problem. On the plus side, I can hold the front brake on while at the traffic lights and I know it won't use up any extra battery power.
The Benelli seems reliable but no real review so far. CFmoto gives the choice of a naked bike or the touring bike (650TR) with a really clear rundown from Shanghaifingers.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMC888
I like them both but I've never had anything that big before so they all seem nice. I have time to think while I'm saving money (that all seems to be siphoning away from my bank and toward my baby boy right now) and who knows there may be some other options by the time I have enough money... or before you do! :icon10:
Dear Pete,Quote:
Originally Posted by soberpete
You've got a great bike for now, so no need to rush to replace the YBR. Keep an eye on CFMoto: They've already signaled that they're developing a dual sport using the same 650 twin that's used in the NK and TR. Might just be worth the wait!
Also, regarding your 13k maintainance update, a couple of observations:
Very glad you are doing this. All that bending of your bars only weakens them with metal fatigue.Quote:
- New handlebar... replacing the old one today. I could never get it perfectly straight after the last accident.
Consider installing some metal-spined handguards. These not only protect your levers in a drop, they keep direct wind off your gloved hands in very cold weather, and can keep branches and other foreign bodies from snagging on your bars when you are in tight urban traffic or offroading. Because of the built-in metal spine, I think these guards also help protect your bar from bending in a getoff.Quote:
- Spare Clutch and brake levers... the first thing to get damaged when the bike gets dropped.
This might have something to do with the kill circuit on your side stand. These get corroded and dirty, and eventually fail. Lots of riders consider it an unnecessary feature -- a bit of nannyism to protect you from starting with the transmission engaged -- and simply circumvent it by snipping the wire and closing the circuit on itself.Quote:
1st thing: 90% of the time now the bike won't start unless I hold the clutch in. It's in neutral, yes, and after I let go of the clutch the bike doesn't lurch so it isn't false neutral either. This has only begun to happen in the past month or so. No big deal but it's all for posterity.
Cheers!