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Hi Skullwortz, I have been working on bobbing out my honda rebel, yes I know guy's this is the DF-250 sight. I used the plasti-dip on my biike and it works great for $6 a can! As soon as I get it done I will post pics. Just to let you guy's know the dealer that ordered mine I told him that I would have to pass on it just because I thought it best. I had to go look at it and take it for a spin. It looks cool! But I am happy to have got the Honda Rebel.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
Cant wait to see how it turned out!! As far as getting a Rebel, as long as your on two wheels and loving it!Quote:
Originally Posted by terrilb05
yes i use standard car oil , Ive never even changed it , Ive drained and strained it , but still using same oil as I put in it that 1st day some 5k mikes ago
the BULBS on this bike are terrible , everything that runs continuosly , tail running light / headlights , break every time you hit a good bump
I put in a car sealed beam headlamp , and a 4" strip of LED's from autoparts store into rear brake for running lights , I still use standard bulb for normal brake light
dont fool yourself thinking changing bulbs in tail lamp will help its a hard tail , I went thru about 50 bulbs , all brakelight still working but busted running light be4 I wised up
Ive often concidered getting a rebel , pulling the motor and putting it in my bike and putting my motor into the rebel then selling the rebel for what I bought it for :p
Their are china clones for Yamaha and Honda Rebels. Honda CA250 253FMM 250/300 Twin 4T
no I meant to have a fully servicable , by any motorcycle mechanic honda rebel motor (or any other sm honda motor) , as its a honda clone any sm honda should be a direct bolt in
as Ive had them tell me they dont wanna touch the china clone motor
besides the fact the american motors squeeze out a few more HP which = speed for better freeway use
Ive been doing it all myself , but hands not working like they used to and backs acting up , knee's going ect
but all said n done , Im still happy with it , even though its prob only producing 8-9HPower and untill it gives me a problem ill ride
All of you guys that are running a non-see through filter on your crankcase breather. This is what I discovered inside my "clear" filter yesterday as I was doing service to my bike. So, if you cant see inside or take the filter apart then you can and could have a serious problem arising. If you dont have it terminated and its running into your electronics box then this is the crap thats blowing in on your wiring.Attachment 10930Attachment 10931Attachment 10932
What in the hell is it? To top it all its white!Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
And, by the way it's skullworkz not skullwortz. Skullwortz would be a very bad thing if there were such a thing, and it would probably make a GREAT name for a metal band! Can't wait to see the pics of this plastic coated bike!!! What color is it?! And, if you don't like it you can peel it off! And, also, is the pic in your profile the look your going for on your build? Edit >OK, sorry not trying to sound like a jerk>just pointing it outQuote:
Originally Posted by terrilb05
What your looking at is oil from the crankcase breathing and natural condensation in the tubing and filters from covered outside storage. I have a very large red barn type wood shed that is at the end of my driveway and thats where I store my bike. So, as the bike warms up and cools down it makes steam that comes out of your crankcase breather. Since it is coming out of your engine that "steam" will have oil attached to it and when it cools it makes the very nasty looking substance pictured above. I cant imagine this stuff being blown into my carb on the new models!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
pictures as requested. It's not 100% perfect.. but remember this was done with a rattle can and not my HVLP. I used 2 cans of rustoleum Satin black between the tank and fenders. I could have used less than half of one can.. but I wanted it layed on thick. After the paint was dry.. i used 2000 grit sand paper with spray wax as the lube. Then I used some rubbing compound, followed by a quick finish of spray wax again.
It's more of a matte/satin than a flat which I like. It's a a bit deeper than the stock color and much more resilient. A little spotty in a few places but I cleaned it up nice. Also this paint is an exact match for the stock frame color if you need to do touch ups.
btw idk about yours.. but the bottom of my tank was nasty RUST orange primer. I didnt bother painting this area, as I will re do the paint correctly with my HVLP gun at some point, but it looks fine for now
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