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with no definite answer, i'll go with the pit motor document, their whole thing with the CCW bikes is customer service... I mean they are selling basically the same bike as the DF at a 50% premium, if they cant give a decent recommendation on this bike, then who will.
Otherwise in lieu of a definite answer, one tuning method might be to set the clearance as wide as anyone recommends, then keep closing them until you hear (or dont hear rather) much clanking when the engine is warm. but what do i know....
I gap mine the very same as I gap my 1974 VW beetle , .6 and .8
but it does chatter a bit more than I like so perhaps .4 .6 might be better
I dig all this information, but I have one favor to ask. Does anyone have a link to an instructional video on how to do this? I am not or never have been a motorcycle mechanic, but I am a car mechanic, so doing it is not an issue, just knowing how is. I have been hearing a little bit of noise recently from the motor, and am assuming it is valve clacking. I have yet to adjust any of them in the 9236 miles I have on the bike. I think perhaps I need to. But I am one of those guys where if it aint broke, don't fix it. I also have a question to anyone who has changed out the sprocket to a 35 tooth. I have had to get another one the last month or so agao cause of my studs breaking again, no worries, but I am noticing that the sprocket itself does not seem to be seating in the chain correctly on about 4 to 8 links as the rotation occurs. Has anyone else been aware of this issue on their replacement sprocket. Mine was purchased through Old Bike Barn and it is a JT Rear Sprocket JTR279.35T 35 Tooth. This is the same one I had gotten when I initially changed to the 35 tooth. I am concerned it is going to chew up the chain so I am going to replace it, but I do not want to go through Old Bike Barn again if this is going to be the same sprocket they send me. So basically where else can I buy this sprocket and hopefully a better one.
bowtiewagon. this is where the instructions are.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByFv...hl=en_US&pli=1
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Ya, that link is a bit funny.
Try opening the link in another browser, it doesn't work for me in firefox but does in IE.
Or try downloading then opening in acrobat.
I too was having trouble being sure i was in the compression stroke, and afaik i cant be sure i was... it seemed to me any TDC left the bike out of compression but did leave it with both valves at highest point.
hmm i best check again, its really so easy to get the top off.
I just got through looking over things on this thread. It seems where I got my information was slightly confused. Anyhow I read a post from barnone and he quoted from his manual and a sticker stuck directly to his motor, the proper valve ajustment for our motor is intake .06mm exhaust .08mm. Which is more in line with the .002in .004in from the Heist. Hope that clears things up. The manual they sent with my 2012 was a chunk of garbage. A kind of cover all DF 250 kind of thing with instructions like " to change your oil lay the bike flat on the ground" sheesh