In another note... Is there a way to disconnect the air injection without making a plate for the motor? Maybe just pulling off a hose and plugging the hose attached the motor, and plugging the other hose attached to the pump?
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In another note... Is there a way to disconnect the air injection without making a plate for the motor? Maybe just pulling off a hose and plugging the hose attached the motor, and plugging the other hose attached to the pump?
So just straighten these arch support rods a bit? I'll write that down on my to do list. Thanks for the heads up.
Attachment 12319
I'm going to make the plate and remove all the plumbing like I did on my old DF.
Attachment 12320
Use the removed piece as a pattern to make the plate out of 1/8" or so aluminum plate. Paint it black. Put a cap on the vacuum port. Easy peasy.
On my old DF then I moved the ignition key switch to the place were the pump was. Kinda cleaned it up a bit. I don't know if this will work on the new model.
Attachment 12321
I have the 2012 and from looking at it I would think you could loosen the four strut bolts attaching the fender, lift it at the back by hand to get the clearance you want and tighten it back down.
well I'd check everything if I i were you, i did.
but the only 2 issues I had was my secondary air pump was not functioning correctly, blowing it's hoses. a non issue as the entire system is gone.
the only pressing issue I had was absolutely no clearance on the valves, there was even tension on mine.
I find everyone who checks their valves reporting they are at least tight.
After reading Bobthebobbers problem I checked the clearance on the tail on mine and there was a half inch. Barnone, I hope they send a different manual than they sent with my bike as it is almost useless. I hope you kept the manual from your 2010. I'd like to get a copy of that.