Shineray X2X review, Guandong

"Die Grünen" are busy now to manage the Multi-Kulti overflow in the "Heimat" right now :mwink:.... and they are pacifists.
No weapon for China to kill ShuBen for NOx pollution!

But serious:
As I read the combustion chamber temperature will raise a bit. I assume that is not critical. (?)
... and for my little NOx sometimes .... when I see all these new Ford F150, Toyota Tundra, 5.7L Hemi's and the Diesel 3 wheeler transporters that look like they are set on fire instead of moving forward .... THEN -> Fu... it!

I had a longer ride today on the X2 without the exhaust gas recirculation.
IMHO it has better response to the throttle and rev's up faster and easier. (and maybe minimum more torque)

Additionally I made a top speed test with my 100kg and 186cm height. Sitting upright 115kmph, laying flat 121 kmph (accord to speedo)

As you can see, everything is OK with the engine.

What you expected from engine with only a vergaser? No sensors, no injectors, no ECU - no fuss.

EGR or exhaust gas recirculating
It reuses exhausted gas back thru the engine for cleaner emissions yet less oxygen for horse power
Correctly blank it off to improve engine performance but slightly more emissions

I am very surprised that I found today that the fuel consumption is also reduced by about 0.5L/100km.
Can that be?

Update Edit:
After several gas refills i can confirm that the fuel consumption goes down after removing the EGR.

You tell us.

to X2 owners:

guys, check the connection bolts between main frame and rear support frame on your bike. (blue circle)
Today suddenly my seat slipped out of the front arresting bolt while riding standing on the foot pegs.
After stop I found I lost on both sides the connection bolt.

Solution:
if you have at least a leatherman tool, use the support bolt that holds the exhaust pipe at the frame position as a one side temporary fix (green circle). Alternatively the bolts that limit the left / right turn of front fork should be suitable size too.

Attachment 17722

Attachment 17723

X2-Guys:
Can someone recommend a street oriented or at least dual purpose tire set (21" / 18") for the X2? I dont want to go on supermoto rims. Thanks in advance.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm...2-8d3ef56dd8e9

These are soft so don't last much more than 5K but ok on dirt and road but not mud.

Not bad general purpose tires, but very slippery when wet tarmac.

Thanks Zhu! will try them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zhu

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm...2-8d3ef56dd8e9

These are soft so don't last much more than 5K but ok on dirt and road but not mud.

---

So have put a set on and run them on dry road, sandy ground and large size gravel.
I found them quite good with sufficient grip and traction under all three conditions.
IMHO a suitable tire for long distance Enduro traveling.
They run much smoother than knobbie tires and are slimmer. (looked weird in the first moment)

Thanks Zhu for the advise!

These also look not bad

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm...id=20660903546

There's an old post here comparing some tires.

I like the Kenda K280 for dual-sporting.

http://www.contactdi.com/2009/galaxy/XTR024.jpg

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChinaV

There's an old post here comparing some tires.

I like the Kenda K280 for dual-sporting.



http://www.contactdi.com/2009/galaxy/XTR024.jpg

Cheers!

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They look good.. Mostly the rubber compound for us mere mortals is not as important as the hardness.. I've attached quite an interesting table.
http://eurorubber.it/en/our-products...-with-nrsbrbr/

Basically the tyres have to be strong enough to support your bike and last a decent distance. The tyres on my dragstar are Dunlop Rear and Bridgestone Front. The bridgestone is way too hard at 80 shore and the front wheel easily locks up.. Scary. I get around 6,000Km per set on this bike..
On my DZR 400 SM (with 21" front) I have Mtezeller dual purpose. They are incredibly good tyres.. Rear is 150/70-17 (BMW size) and I've got 20K km out of it so far and still have around 10K km to go! Hardness is 65 Middle and 60 edges.. This is really a well made tyre. Front is 90/90-21, 75 hardness, pretty much worn away now.. say another 1,000 km.. The front is so good that braking on almost any surface will cause the rear end to lift off, even fully loaded! They are around 1400 rmb each but without doubt have saved my bacon on many occasions.. Worth every penny.
I have a chinese 175 Scrambler.. Although a legal road bike I would not take on the road.. It is bloody dangerous and for such a light bike the chinese tyres at 75 sore are way too hard. This usually results in the Knobblies breaking off...
My scooter is being serviced at the moment so I can't measure the tyres.. When you are running small diameter front wheels you really do need extremely good rubber...

As i am now on the Kenda K270 i will test them extensively and if I am unhappy I put a K280 on.
For the next year I plan to have a complete second set of rims incl. brake disks and smaller sprocket for a fast change opportunity. Just have to watch out for the chain length I guess.

How about the new X6? I thought its the same engine as the X2 but had a look on taobao pictures and it appears to be a different, new thing.
Anybody knows whats the difference between the X2 and the X6 apart from the later one being a bit lighter?
Shineray still sells both of them so they must be different

The X6 engine is a NC250 while the X2 has a copy of a Honda AX engine.
Beside that the X6 is accord. to my knowledge a pure MX bike.
One problem that I saw in the shop is that the exhaust nearly touching the frame in front of the cylinder.
To get the engine in that frame they formed a dent in the frame pipe and the distance is maybe 1mm.

If its a pure MX bike than this dent in a frame is not a great idea unless its in a spot where there is not a lot of stress.
I noticed that those X6es are more popular then X2s in "civilian" version (road legal) even though they have much smaller tank.

As CNY gives us some quiet days Barry and me took the time to revamp my X2.
We ripped out the engine and put a 300cc kit (76mm bore) incl. head on it.
That 50cc give surprisingly much additional power and low end torque.

It took us 2h to get the engine out and take off the cylinder.
Then we messed around several hours with correct camshaft built in and especially the valves clearance adjustment. (next time will take a quarter of time)
After engine closing we had the engine in again in 1h.
Happily it got started immediately and after carburetor adjustment its running fine now.
(But I have a new carb in mind already :naughty:)

Furthermore i have a 46 teeth rear sprocket on with the Kenda K270 tire set 21"/18"

This combination gives a nice travel configuration. Just my 100kg on without luggage gives a 110 - 120KMPH speed without too high rev'ing engine.
I also have got a complete second tire set with knobbies on it and a 52 teeth sprocket but had to find out the my chain is not long enough to easy switch between 46 and 52.
So I need a second chain now :confused1: (and maybe try a 50T sprocket on the dual tire wheel set)

BTW:
I have downloaded a Honda NX250 repair manual. I can confirm that the engine is a 1 to 1 copy. All details of the Honda manual is transferable to the X2.
Only difference is in valve clearance: Honda IN & EX both 0.23 +/- 0.03mm while X2 has IN=0.15+/-00.3mm and EX=0.20+/-0.03mm

How much you gave for 300cc kit and do you have some comment about its fabrication quality?

Cylinder + piston, piston shaft, rings, etc = 420RMB
Cylinder head = 800RMB (but now not available anymore for whatever reason)
valve set with all small parts = ca. 100RMB
Relevant gaskets are included.

For future 300cc cylinder heads we figured out a solution we want to try after CNY.
The plan is to take a 250cc head, center it on a lathe machine and lathe the combustion chamber from now 70mm to 76mm diameter. Position of valves and spark plug are identical to 300cc.
That is possible and easy to do. The head's cooling channels must be grind a little at the out edges to match the 300cc head gasket cooling liquid flow holes. But also this is a 10min job.
Once we did it we will publish the result. I sponsor volunteer my now available 250cc head :icon10:

At the end we might have a much cheaper solution for the community as a 250cc head is only 400RMB.

OK, that is a bit less than 180 euros. I would say - it is fair price.

You know, on small bore horizontal engines, their heads are almost the same, from 72cc (47m piston) to 107cc (52,4mm piston), except this, let me use two-stroker's vocabulary, squish band. :deal:

If you decide to mod standard 250cc head, IMO, you'll need milling machine with vertical spindle. Lathe for that job is a big headache.

The milling machine is for sure a good alternative. I will consider that advice too. (but I have only pure manual machines, no CNC)

Right now I have designed a center bolt with the same thread as the spark plug. (The spark plug is in the center of the combustion chamber)
With that I ensure the center position. The upper and lower head surfaces are milled parallel plane. So the top surface is a good alignment at the lathe.
I want use on of the cylinder bolt holes in the head to fix a stud there that is used as force transfer driver (english understandable???). In that way I make sure that the lathe forces are not going into the spark plug thread and ruin it.
It is anyway just a 1mm offset with diameter 76mm (no heavy duty)

OK... technical a bit complicated, but I trust you understand me (at least Zorge :lol8:)

Force transfer driver... yes, yes... I understand.

You'll will hire Frank Martin...

http://www.goodwp.com/large/201210/25428.jpg

...to do the job.

This English of mine is getting better daily. :naughty:


:lol8:


Jokes aside.

If the spark plug hole is in the center of the combustion chamber and the upper and lower surfaces are parallel, your task is much easier and simpler. You're right - this is job for the lathe.

BTW, after upgrade, did you felt... some other level of engine vibrations (because of increased reciprocating mass; bigger and heavier piston) comparing to standard engine?

Basically I don't feel a change. I have no idea how much heavier is that piston. IMO that can only few grams. Is that enough to get a significant change?

I'm asking you. Only you can feel any difference between "before" and "after".

I don't feel a change.

:thumbsup:

If someone else in the future ask same question - here's the answer.

For X2 Owners: here comes an interesting news regarding rear brake pads.

Seems Shineray has changed the rear caliper from X2 to X5. Therefore i had to realize that the ordered original read brake pads are to small.
I cross checked with Barry and we saw that his rear caliper fits for these pads, but not mine (Now the lucky bastards get some new pads for free)
I will order X5 pads and let you know whether they fit in.

Barry's X2 should be a 2013 model.
Mine is from 2014.

Update: the X5 pads fit in the 2014 X2 caliper.

I'm looking to upgrade my X2X to 300cc - how was the process and end result?


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