Very interesting reading, thanks Shuben. Uncorking those extra herbs must have been a shock! Why on earth would they hide them?
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Very interesting reading, thanks Shuben. Uncorking those extra herbs must have been a shock! Why on earth would they hide them?
Good review
So what is the tank size ?
Love the bike .....
Intrested to see the rear frame when done.
Tank volume is 7.2L.
Today's consumption on a mix of city roads, ring roads and expressway was 4.7L/100km
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The Max range is less then 150km .
I expect the range will drop when you are on dirt trails.
Have you got plans to fit a bigger tank ?
I had a look at IMS fuel tanks for TE510(2010). Maybe that's a future option with 13L.
At first I plan a fix point on the luggage rack for the 5L bike jerry can.
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I had read that a lot of the old 3rd party upgrades for the huskies will fit the SWM, no actual evidence to support that though...
So it must be a bit like my old 2007 KTM525, some power to burn lol
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After conferencing with Barry I bought a set of Cree automotive LED lights and installed it today.
Easy plug and play, no cable changes.
https://world.tmall.com/item/5462384...r.1.0.0.fG0WR3
So I was the guinea pig and the second light goes then to Barry.
It's really bright :cool:
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Worth it? Really gives decent lighting?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShuBen
I've looked and worried things actually give anything decent for the money
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A few years back Ive bought one othem LED lightbulbs for cheap. It was plenty brights but there was no low beam hahah
The LED we bought is not cheap but high quality.
The light output is in my opinion worth the investment.
We had concern that the cooler strips would get too hot and burn the wire harness.
This is not the case. The real heat spot is just at the strip exit from housing.
I opened the strip to loops and put them cross over in each other which keeps the cables away from the hot spot.
Attachment 19341
After a 100km run I checked again immediately on arrival and found the strip touchable hand warm.
Attachment 19342Attachment 19343
Of course I dont know whether cheaper products have same conditions.
One thing I find very annoying and this is the left electrical hand control.
Completely untypical they have placed the horn switch in the center and the turn signal down while on all other bikes i owned it was vice versa.
I never find the horn when needed and must look all time to switch turn signals. After getting on my GS i am confused once again.
I have ordered a YBR250 left control block and will (if necessary) re wire it. In case the quality is satisfying I consider to replace right too to keep same design.
Attachment 19344
Changing plugs on those is easy - I've got all the tools and terminals to do all common and some other semi common on fancier bikes - might look at that light cause I hate motorcycle lights as they are crap
Any link on taobao etc or brand name?
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Magazine review of the SWM Superdual:
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/f...erdual-review/
I am interested to see the Superdual in reality.
The review praise the bike quite much.
IMO the setup is is absolutely sufficient and give a good "all condition cross country" bike for China.
I would preferthe Superdual over the heavier Benelli TRK502 which is also good in power and built quality.
Lets see how the market reacts especially there is now competition from the 250 to 300cc class, and what will be the chinese price tag.
I am also interested in seeing how the Superdual really is. My feelings are that the SWM and TRK will be very different due primarily to their weight. The TRK is reportedly very heavy for its power output (something like 35kw for 235kg).Quote:
Originally Posted by ShuBen
In Australia the Superdual is A$1000 more than the RS500, so we will see what happens here.....:popcorn:
Today I took off the front fender and had a speedy run.
The problem of amplitudes and vibrations comes from the fender.
Without fender the Karoo3 tire has some uncritical vibrations only.
I try first to double tape some rubber under the fender for potential improvement and also search for alternatives.
I checked the Shineray X2 fender today but unfortunately the hole pattern doesn't fit 100% but could be made up to fit.
So a test run with that alternative was not possible.
Here some pics with X2 fender:
Attachment 19352Attachment 19353Attachment 19354
How does the mudguard mount on the bottom you could potentially make a bracket that spreads out the vibrations on a larger surface instead of the bolt/rubber interface
Maxed out on my CRF 250L at 145kmh no problems with what you are experiencing.
So maybe as you say you need to try a different design front fender.
http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/...psyzpd27e3.jpg
Yeah I checked the CRF fender already. The question is whether I get a real one on TaoBao/Tmall.
But the prices are not that high, so I give it a try.
When it works out to 145-150kmph its fine. The yesterdays top speed of 165kmph is anyway not what you want to go. It can go even faster, but I skipped it. The bike is too light weighted.
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So what are you saying, at high speeds the wind is checking under the front fender making the front light?
With the end results of having the effect of an unstable front end.?
exactly, it works like a wing. big surface and air going underneath and is guided by the shape downwards.
When you compare CRF and SWM front fender you will see that the SWM fender is much wider and catches more air.
The faster you go the more buoyance. Hold out your hand off a car window.
Turn it horizontal and after 45 degree upward and you feel how your hand is pushed upwards.
Barry mentioned to me a rear suspension adjustment might help to a certain level.
Harder spring keeps the rear end up.
@prince: What tire is that on your CRF?
3.00-21 and 120-80/18 IRC tyres.
The hardcore riders in Thailand recommend the Dunlop D606 for the rear and MT21 for the front.
With regards to the pressure lift on the front could you experiment with cutting some slots in the fender to see if it relieves some of the pressure.?
Or slow down lol not a good option IMO
Pe-loading the back shock could help but somehow I think it won't, but no harm in trying.
... got and adjusted the X2 fender for try out of vibration reduction.
The slight amplitudes coming purely from the Karoo3 are of course still there, but the crazy shaking from original SWM fender is completely eliminated.
Now I can also have a ride at 110 or 120 kmph without feeling like sitting in a cocktail shaker.
Only action necessary is to enlarge the fixation holes a little in length direction as the SWM has a pattern 60 x 60 mm while the X2 comes with 50 x 60mm.
Additionally I have cut for optical reasons 2 little pins on fender top that hold normally the lamp mask of the X2.
here ist the result:
left original right X2
Attachment 19360Attachment 19361
Attachment 19362Attachment 19363Attachment 19364
I have still one more alternative fender coming and will check also there the improvement and outlooking.
:thumbsup:
you are right
my SWM Motard 500 has the same engine of the former Husqvarna 501/510 but with injection, electric start and updated emission level (Euro 3 and now Euro 4 here in Italy)
engine and bike are put together here in the former Husqvarna factory (Cassinetta di Biandronno, Varese, northern Italy)
guess all the SM and RS series (300, 500 and 650) share this base
it seems right no that Germany is their best market in Europa
dunno if these bikes are sold in China too
Yes we can buy this m in China, but the prices are quite different because of import taxes.
For my SWM RS500R I paid 74.900 RMB ( ca. 10k Euro) incl. all taxes and Beijing B license plate.
That is for sure not cheap but the only option to get a 500cc legal off road bike.
I also checked private import in the past. But that is lots of trouble and at the end it wasn't cheaper.
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time has gone by and SWM is alive and kicking, making good sales all over europe
i own a sm500r and it clearly comes from the previous Husqvarna models, as well as the 300 and 650 models
think the other models have Shineray engines
the freshly coming out 4-stroke 125 seems to be made in SWM
thumbs up
In post #114 I described the vibration reduction by fender change. A slight vibration was still remaining. I could eliminate that now too by removing the tire clamp at the front which pressed the tire against the rim bed. After taking advise from a very experienced ADV rider I took it out, turned the tire heavy point mark opposite to the valve and closed the hole in the rim with duct tape.
Now I can run even a 130+ without and annoying pulsing vibration.
I learned from a friend that it also applies yo the X5 where this clamp is the reason for the wobbling feeling of the bike.
He also was able to kill that wobbling
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