No. it has a PZ30 pumper carb which can be easily modified it needed. The new DF's seem to be coming with 105 main jets so no modification needed. Mine came with a 88 so was very lean.
http://walbro.com/brochurefiles/3368...g%20Manual.pdf
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No. it has a PZ30 pumper carb which can be easily modified it needed. The new DF's seem to be coming with 105 main jets so no modification needed. Mine came with a 88 so was very lean.
http://walbro.com/brochurefiles/3368...g%20Manual.pdf
Welcome ConwayBob, its not difficult to assemble the DF. The UPS driver delivered my bike and could only back halfway down my drive way so he had to drop my bike about 500 yards from the house and shop... I got a handful of metric wrenches and sockets and a couple of Allen wrenches and assembled it in about an hour and a half. I found it to be easier to assemble the bike before I removed the "stay" wires. I would recommend getting someone to hold the bike upright when you remove the wires though...you could manage it by yourself but you really dont want to drop your new toy before you ever start it... LOL...Anyway, the DF is a fine machine, it feels good and sits well for me 6'2" and 240lbs... barnone has modified his carbuerator a little with success, but it has been discovered that some of the carbs don't need different jets. IF you decide to go ahead and get one .... be sure to read about the difficulties some of us have had with the dealers. I think that the DF is the better product above the others just for the price.... the kikker comes as a 150cc that you can "upgrade" to a bigger engine but then the price shoots up higher than the DF, besides Kelly Kikker has an attitude problem from what I understand and he may decide to not sell you parts.... the bike offered by CCW is a good bike and runs about $1000 more than the DF , but you DO have dealers across the country, we have one here in Nashville TN. For the extra grand you get the added convenience of a brick and mortar location that offers product support.... get the DF... its really cool, you will love it when you see it.
Sean
Need help. going thru break in & getting an intermitent spuder constant speed & backfires some times during de-acceleration.
Front suspencion hard, I thought the back was to be, it's fine. Any bump literally hurts hands.
Headlamp adjustment limited. Too low at max up.
Neutral after dropping into 1st won't happen. If you gently tap down from second it happens.
Handle bars 5" to far forward. Is there a way to bend bars back?
Hand book break in says 75% gas , sticker on motor next to dip says @35mph max for the first @100 miles. Doing that now & will follow 75% for the recommended future miles. Doing one hour rides with 2 hour cools, they recommend 5 cycles.
Is there supposed to be an element inside the air cleaner's metal cover?
Other wise as much fun you can have with your cloths on. Love my new toyAttachment 5592Attachment 5593
Man alive, the bike just plain looks better in black matte.... almost no chrome... and no cheesy stripes on the tank or fenders. You get first prize for "Best out of the Box" Category in my opinion.
Nice pictures.
So, I was sitting at work yesterday and had mentioned that I had a new bike, my buddy asked to see a picture of it and when he saw it... he said " is that a Harley?"... I told him with all seriousness of expression (straight faced...LOL), "NO... that bike is not a Harley... it's a 1932 Norton...." ( I love that one and have been using it for the last couple of days...LOL). My buddy says " NO SH*T?!!".... to which I replied "no you dumba$$ its a DongFang Bobber..."
Now he wants one.... I can't believe that cycle shops aren't selling these bikes more, they just sit there and people get the uncontrollable urge to buy them.... :riding:
You got the black on black model for sure. Looks good with the black valve cover.
You might need to check your main jet size. Mine came with a 88 main and it would not run out and had that annoying back fire on deceleration. I put a 100 main and a washer under the needle and that fixed that problem on mine.
Front end is stiff and should loosen up a bit with miles on the bike. Looks like you need to lower your handlebars in the riser clamps. Rotate them back a bit. Don't put a death grip on the handlebars.
My headlight adjustment is fine. Can you take a close up photo of the headlight area and maybe we can spot something wrong there?
Hopefully the gear box will loosen up a bit. Make sure your chain is not too tight.
The air cleaner is the wire mesh. You need to put air filter oil on it.
is it common for motorcycle batteries to die if you don't ride for a couple weeks? i haven't ridden in a couple weeks cause i came into a turn a bit too fast, hit some gravel and dropped the bike. i'm fine and so is the bike for the most part, i just cracked the clutch perch, and bent the the footpeg just enough to bind up my shifter. anyway i've been waiting about a week and a half now for scooter depot to send my new parts and wanted just to start the bike and let it run a bit today, and my battery was dead. is this common or do you think it's something electrical?
Probably a bad battery. Mine went bad and I replaced it with one of the same brand (only one that fits the box) and it's gone bad (10.7 volts). Crappy batteries.
I've ordered one from http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...09A2-BS12.html that is suppose to be the cat's meow. Will let you know in a few days.
Removing my battery to charge (unable to attach charger clips in place due to the metal case shorting the pos clip) I ran into a clearance problem with the rear brake system, had to unbolt to get the battery out.
Barnone what information have you found with the tach. What are the readings at run up & cruise?
Thanks for your feedback regarding my whine list.
Not much info on the tach. At about 7800 RPM the vibration gets real bad. Where I live in WNC is all curves and two lane which I love but there is no straight runs to get above 60 MPH. The mini tach is slow to respond so it's dicy to get accurate RPM numbers. I need to ride down to a straight four lane about an hour away to get some accurate numbers. Plus I left my GPS in Florida. I'll be back in flat FL in about a month or so and then I can get some accurate numbers.
The stock Chinese battery is junk. My second battery went bad so I am down until a new battery arrives so pulled the battery box off and cut the openings around the positive and negative much larger so access to the terminals will be easier.
Barnone,do you snow bird in FL?I know you guys get a good bit of snow at your place in WNC.
F.Y.I. lithium iron battery: http://www.batterystuff.com/knowledg...article&id=185
That is a VERY good possibility. Vibration is the enemy of all lead acid batteries. Your new one will have enough padding to more than fill the battery box. You will marvel at how light it is and small.
I went with the 14ah as it is the same physical size. (I like over kill).
I put enough padding under the battery to build it up to stock height (so cables would reach as normal) and on top & sides,as no venting is necessary. The padding has peel and stick on one side, if you want to use it.
mailman, did you ever get your DF regged in CT?
Not yet. I talked with Ivy, at Sunny Sports and she said she filed the paper work $$$, with CT. to become an "out of state dealer" and she was going to check with them, to see if it was completed.
I'll call her back in a couple of days to see if the deed is done at MVD.
I got the tiny and very light weight new battery installed and she fired right up. http://www.batterystuff.com/powerspo...09A2-BS12.html
Amazing technology with those lithium batteries.
Took her out for a "high" speed run. At 75 MPH indicated (probably about 68 MPH real) she is turning (with my 38 tooth rear sprocket) about 7600 RPM in fifth.
Vibration is getting very uncomfortable at that RPM.
i had my bike out on the highway yesterday and the vibratons were pretty uncomfortable around 50mph, but i'm still running the 45 tooth sprocket. i ordered the 35 tooth from oldbikebarn today, and as long as i can cruise comfortably around 55 i'll be satisfied.
o.k. ya'll have my curiosity peaked.. what causes the vibrations? if you can pin point it.. or even a rough best guess.
Oscillation of the motor, dont think the DF is counter balanced . Sitting in the hard mount and as the thumper moves it causes a vibration to reverberate through the frame. The oscillation will hit a certain frequency which will vibrate the bike in the higher RPM range
wow thats pretty interesting..is there a sort of dampener to attach to the frame mounts where the motor sits that would lessen the vibration? I am assuming that it gets worse at higher RPM's and higher speeds...
I believe all CG250 (167FMM) have a balance shaft which is an eccentric weighted shaft which offsets vibrations in engine designs that are not inherently balanced like the one cylinder engines in the DF and the Heist.
The CG250 is a enlarged clone of the Honda CG125. The CG125 was designed by Honda in 1950 so it's not the latest and greatest in technology.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ekah/81799.jpg
CG125 balance shaft assembly
Anyway, I feel that the vibration is not a problem with the DF engine since it starts occurring at 7500 RPM which is where the power drops off on these push rod engines. I didn't experience this vibration until I started testing with my mini tach. I need to go to a 35 tooth rear sprocket to reduce the RPM at 75MPH indicated.
excellent information Thank you.
I have a question on a bit of another topic. Does anyone know if the stock handle bars on this bike is 7/8 or 1 inch. I am looking to change mine but everytime I try to do a measurement I am unsure and do not want to get messed up. thanks.
fantastic thank you barnone you the man.