Nick, I don't know but you need to tell us what model you have.
2010 DF250RTB, 2012 DF250RTB_A, or 2012 DF250RTB_B, it might make a difference.
I'm guessing under the tank but that is just a guess.
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Nick, I don't know but you need to tell us what model you have.
2010 DF250RTB, 2012 DF250RTB_A, or 2012 DF250RTB_B, it might make a difference.
I'm guessing under the tank but that is just a guess.
Thanks Barnone. It's a 2010 DF250RTB.
if my tach is accurate, slight downhill yesterday, i got just a hair below 60 indicated at just a hair below 7k, and it wouldn't do any better.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Please do tell how the 30 tooth works out.
I must say im going to be a bit tweaked if i have to dump $ on another sprocket.
Against my better judgment, i took the advise of the collective which claimed your weight should determine the size sprocket you can go with... which appear to be a load of crap.
The bike is rev limited like none other ive ever ridden.
I had a 50cc (49cc) 2 stroke way back when that had a normal operating rpm from 5k up to 13k if you pushed it, and would easily achieve 65 no problem cuz apparently it was geared correctly.
On this bike I will top out about 6.5k when it begins to spudder, then shifting at that point brings me no lower than 4k
there is just no range...
I went thru about 5 sprockets , until I figured out the only way I could get speed that wasn't RPM valve float capped (engine sputter @ WOThrottle) was to go with the 17 35 , which is stretching gears from 3 to 2 , id need a diff rear rim to make it geared any lower , Maxed front and rear both at the moment
I stretched front 2 teeth 20% faster , and Rear 10 teeth 33% faster than stock
and when cold . down hill . the wind with me and drafting Im still RPM limited at about 82 indicated (about 73-75 mph)
but my valves are VERY loose , like I set my 38 HPower 1974 VW beetle's valves Attachment 13005 , if I tighten em down I may drag a bit more from her Attachment 13007
/cough , 13/45 that's a snowplow gear that gets about 6 mph ..... and I run a 17 35 :p and think 1st is now "just" short enough (73% shorter) shorter = higher speed , of all vehicles u want 1 that 1st gear is perfect for how u drive is the 1 u get , bikes 1 the only things u can do it yourself with ratio's , do I want a 1/4 mile bike or a cruiserQuote:
Originally Posted by barnone
cruiser tan idler , tan main
racer - tan to black idle , slightly lean very tan 3/4 throttle
I have replaced my horn after 6 months. Had it a year now. And yes it was the horn. Got a french made quality replacement that is adjustable for tone. Didnt want a big ass horn on there as im of the old scholld K.I.S.S. class.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Attachment 13008
Well no offense Dan and maybe you are the exception. But here in TX the speed limit is 75mhp and most do 80+. And I live in the hill country so I have inclines to deal with. And every biker I talked to thinks I was crazzy to take a 250 on the hwy. IMHO they have a valid point.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
45/13 = 3.46 DF stock
41/15 = 2.73 Heist stock
30/13 = 2.31
33/13 = 2.53 my previous 2010
35/13 = 2.69 my current 2012
38/13 = 2.92
I'm going to try 30/13.
I would like to cruise at 55 - 60 MPH on level pavement at 4000 or so RPM.
Don't mind down shifting to 4th to accelerate or go up a grade.
Trouble isn't the horn itself, it is that little bracket that hold it to the bike, right where yours is.See it moves back and forth so much that it eventually just breaks off. I am going for a set of horns and looking at the car horns like Dan said. Louder is better, and hopefully can mount them on a bracket that will not move and break off.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Barnone was it easy getting your 2012 DF250 legal to ride in North Carolina? Just wondering cause I'm interested in getting the DF250RTB_A in a couple of months! I found a shop here in Wilmington, NC that can order it for me!