1 thing to note , the engine is a CG 125 , turned into a 250 but it still has the THROAT of a 125 ,
a better "air cleaner" can actually be acting as if its always part choked
replace air cleaner with stock and go for another ride
Printable View
1 thing to note , the engine is a CG 125 , turned into a 250 but it still has the THROAT of a 125 ,
a better "air cleaner" can actually be acting as if its always part choked
replace air cleaner with stock and go for another ride
It's the same surface area and shape. Only difference is that the new one does not have the fitting for the crankcase breather
believe me from exp with this blog , upgrading the air filter has caused multiple people issues , leave jets stock and upgrade the filter makes the mix richer
upgrade jets then filter makes ya way to rich
My thanks, Dan. I have no doubts about the accuracy of that statement. I did a mod on the intake of my trike that taught me that lesson well.
I have the same issue with stock carb, stock jetting, 110 jetting, stock air cleaner, no air cleaner, aftermarket air cleaner - Also, Mikuni carb with the jet needle at the bottom, middle, or top clip. Same air cleaner options. Every carb option I've tried has the same miss. I've had that miss since the first time I fired her up after PDI. New plug and I've tried new CDI and new coil also. I have a new fuel filter but I haven't replaced the fuel lines yet. Maybe I should try that option also. Probably not that because she goes from idle to full throttle without a hitch and holds RPM steady. It's just that the only time the miss goes away is when she's reving up. As soon as I hold her at any fixed RPM, she starts missing again. She's much better at 3/4 and above though. I do want to run a compression test when the gauge comes in next week. .
It might not be relevant, but I noticed that when I adjusted the valves, the base of the adjustment screw on the exhaust valve does not sit flat on the top of the valve stem. That's why the compression test. Valves were very tight! The guy who held his thumb over the spark plug hole while I was trying to locate the compression stroke said he saw metal flakes. Maybe a chipped valve? I don't even want to think about that till I've tried all other options. If you, know long should compression hold on a leak-down test? Also, I'm tbinking maybe 60-90 pounds?
I still suggest pull air cleaner off and go up the block
valve float and air starvation are this bikes limiting factors
but metal flakes blowing out sparkplug hole pretty serious mmkay
all I know about its compression is 9.2:1
Update.
Still cannot get her to turn over.
starter works.But.. When I remove the timing mark cover I can notice that while I engage the starter, it is NOT turning the flywheels gear. I have it at TDC mark, and it just does not move.removing all covers including the flywheel cover I see that there are only three gears that link from the starter to the flywheel gear. all gears are free from bind. In order to have the sytem function, it all must be together,so putting it together and checking once again, the starter does NOT move the flywheel gear.it does move the reduction gears, and when i turn the flywheel by wrench all gears move back to the starter.
I am lost here. Why will the starter NOT turn the flywheel?
Attachment 15482Attachment 15483Attachment 15484here are pics of the gears
Attachment 15480Attachment 15481
wish I could help u have the most miles of us all , all I can suggest is ordering a Honda CG125 starter
There is a clutch on the back side of the charge rotor that is made up of 3 rollers with pins and springs pushing them out.It will only allow the engine to spin one way.The other way should engage the starter drive train.If something in there is slipping,the starter drive train will never engage the rotor and spin the engine over.This happen to me on my GS500.I ended up buying a rebuild kit.I don't know what's available for the DF.It kind of works like the old ball bearing pull starters on lawn mowers.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...0&d=1402952073