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Changing the tank is not easy. In to my third day. Research very carefully. Wide tunnel is good (21/2-31/4) . Realize if you want a deep tunnel (over 3") You better have skills, its a bitch. Free day tomorrow, paint dry, kick some butt, get it done. The Ford Model A rear light requires unexpected adjustment too! I'm bitch'in but I love it (heated garage).
Tank almost done. Working out fuel connection. Rear tail lamp, tank, & headlamp shown. Attachment 6109Attachment 6110Wiring moved to left (port) side
Extra photosAttachment 6111Attachment 6112Sorry, outside still dark.
Gun,
Is that a Paugho Mustang tank?
/M
GUN,
She is looking very good. Like that all flat black look.
Thanks for the photos showing the new wiring locations. The wiring is still well hidden.
Looks like you were able to leave the stock tank mounting brackets alone?
Bella
Paughco yes, but a 818A Axed Harley Style.
Barnone
Had to trim all original brackets. regretfully
How is the tank remounted? I am loking to change mine out,but am wondering what the best way to mount it to the bike is. Did you have to weld on new brackets, or clamp on brackets ..???
I love everything you've done to the bike. Ada boy!
/M
No welding, I selected the 'horse-shoe front bracket with a rear tab (behind tank's end) allowing a tru-bolt 1/4 hardened (#8). 3" front, 2 1/2 rear. Be sure to isolate tank from frame with rubber gromets/ bumpers washers. I found rubber bumpers at Ace that allowed the 1/4" bolts to go thru with rubber grommets for the outside washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Allot of tanks styles offer top only tru-bolt tabs but you will need lateral bumpers under (on frame) to avoid lateral twist.
I know I am reading this quite early in the morning,but could you show some closeups of this configuration..I am ignorant to the terms you used...Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
I see a few tanks i am interested in replacing the stock one with,and they all have different types of mounting tabs on them,and since this is my first time messing with a bike like this,I am a little lost.
You did say you removed the old brackets from the bike,so some grinding sounds like it was needed,and I am assuming that you had to drill the frame to attach the new mounts? Looking at your picture above,and everything being so black..I barely can make thme out. I am sorry if I am asking alot..your bike looks great,and the tank looks big.Just wanting to get it right.
Grind away front and rear DF tank brackets. Amount depends on the new tank's tunnel width (I cut off 1/2"each with a 3" tunnel width) Most tanks sold have 2 1/2" tunnel widths, therefore cut off completely. Tunnel depth varies on style picked. I have a 4 1/2" tunnel depth. That also required tapering finned regulator and shortening upper engine bracket bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Yes bolted tru frame (wait to get your tank, finish cutting then rest in place. determine each hole one at a time. Drill exact width & put bolt in, then work out next hole location.) Regretfully tank lenghts over 19" will probably hit front forks.
Bow, photos dark due to black paint & overcast day. As soon as the sun is out fully, I'll try again.
[QUOTE=GUN ROD;
Bow, photos dark due to black paint & overcast day. As soon as the sun is out fully, I'll try again.[/QUOTE]
Tank with fittingsAttachment 6115
You the man that was very helpful..now I have to find a tank I like. I love this place..everyone is just awesome with information and friendlier than anywhere else I have been. Thanks bunches.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
looking for 1 of them 6-7 gallon harley split tanks to slap on my bike be sweet to actually have a petcock with a reserve (currently my reserve is a camping fuel bottle I fill with gas and bungy to my frame) and the ability to go more than 90-100 miles on a tank
them being split tanks would be easier to fit tunnel wise yes ? even if need custom cover ontop to cover the gap
Keep in mind Harley tanks come with a 3/8"NPT or 22mm Bung (petcock screw in location under tank). Our carb has a 3/16 I.D. hose. Paughco has a reducer bushing for either bung to allow a 1/4" NPT petcock (with reserve) with a 3/16 barb for our fuel line.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Split tanks are interesting, but installation may be more of a challenge than a wide tunnel single. As I mentioned before, looking at tanks longer than 19" (6-7 gallon) could be an issue with the front fork turning radius (exception: rear tank design splits around your seat).
aye , but prob could pick up a fuel filter that was 3/8 to 1/4 - tank to filter to carb
and while all the electronics , wiring , motor and transmition , sprockets are the same I ride a Diff bike :p , with a 24" long tank (I have the chopper (1,500 miles so far) but post here because chopper threads are dead and we have exactly the same issue's)
Flatside tanks (aka split tanks or fatbobs) would be a challange to install on the DF. Mounting issues aside, you'd have to come up with a dash panel solution otherwise you'll have a very unslightly top view and even with the smallest 3-1/2 gal. tanks, they rather wide for such a small bike.
I would consider the route Gun Rod took but possibly a larger capacity tank. I think a deep tunnel "King" Sportster tank would look sharp and give you 4+ gals. I'm eyeballing a Wassell Peanut tank for my next build.
/M
Wouldn't you need taller bars to clear the fat tanks when turning?I guess the bigger tanks could be mounted low but that may cause fuel flow issues to the carb.
Yes, and wouldn't you want to toss the stock bars in the rubbish anyway? Talk about a turd of a design.Quote:
Wouldn't you need taller bars to clear the fat tanks when turning?
/M
Quote:
Originally Posted by BellaCorse
The stock bars are crap but I like a lower straighter bar.I don't mind reaching out to the bars but I can't reach up,bad rotater cuff in my shoulder.
My tank (3.8 gal, wanted the width due to wide new seat) clears bars with room for a tool bag.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Issue came up with Paughco pepcock. Straight down design, left the system too close to the head (right side fuel bung). Returned & now waiting for a Pingel 90 degree pepcock. Also discovered the 3/16" hose barb spec from mfg. was ID not OD. Jegs sells a nice brass reducer that I will use between new filter & carb.
Does anyone know what our motor is other than a counter-balanced 231cc? Honda design bored out, knock-off?
Elephant in the room guys, we know our bike except this. Has any one found the key ?Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
I thought that the DF had the Zongshen motor similar to the lifan but without the kickstart spline
Thank you Gardo, you nailed it (Zongshen) working now on getting/finding a service/repair & parts manualsQuote:
Originally Posted by Gardo
Go Giants!
I'm new to this site and have gone through all 168 pages...that being said where is a good place to order one of these bikes.
thanks
i got mine from Scooter Depot. http://www.scooterdepot.us/250cc-cus...kes-p-731.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by dvslink
some places have better prices than others like for example...
http://www.expressatvs.com/proddetai...linenumber=622
http://www.killermotorsports.com/Ice...ib-pst250d.htm
http://www.extremescooters.biz/250cc...r-chopper.aspx
I just want to get one from a place that I know I wont have much problems with.
Honda CG 125 pushrod , boredQuote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/mod...a_cg125 70.htm
dvslink , I got mine from Killer Motorsports , they even plated it for me
DanDaMan if you don't mind me asking how much did you pay total for everything. How long did it take you to get your bike from killer motorsports, and how is there customer service?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Thanks
[QUOTE=DanDaMan;39035]Honda CG 125 pushrod , bored
May have been original design/patent but Zongshen now makes the motor for Dong Fang